Ditto for me as well @nill1234, performance without compromising the cool feelSo I just removed the heatpad and now running only shim mod because it was getting hot on the bottom and I almost get the same scores in Geekbench with shim mod only
Ditto for me as well @nill1234, performance without compromising the cool feelSo I just removed the heatpad and now running only shim mod because it was getting hot on the bottom and I almost get the same scores in Geekbench with shim mod only
So I just removed the heatpad and now running only shim mod because it was getting hot on the bottom and I almost get the same scores in Geekbench with shim mod only
A Proper heat pipe and a shim is the ultimate way. But we have to design a custom cooler. Till then im pretty satisfied with the shim only mod.
MacBook Air 2020 i5/16GB/256GB heatpipe mod
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To help battling against commercial usage and keep this as a non-profit community input, if you adapt this mod, please DO NOT SHARE ANY MESAUREMENTS regarding any componenets. This will keep out pure opportunists because they will have to buy themselves a MacBook before doing commercialization.
Background and acknowledgement
Hi guys. Here is a new Air user from Japan. Thanks to all brilliant challengers from this thread (including srkirt, kinchee87, vyruzreaper, RiaKoobcam, Robotronic and DanSilov). I tried the shim mod which is great. The performance is better and more quiet, but the heat dissipation still worries me. I tried the heat pad mod but the bottom is too warm for me and the mod seems to stress the insulating material at the bottom case too much. So, I tried to transfer the heat from the heatsink to the spinning fan without touching the bottom case.
Process
I read this thread for guys who used metal pipe to transfer the heat to somewhere near the fan. I think the improvement is limited because the heat conduction from the metal pipe is not efficient and most air to the fan does not need to pass through the metal pipe. My plan is to make a metal punching mesh to force the spinning fan to cool it.
Here is the overall idea before installation.
View attachment 921971
I used the remaining 0.3mm copper plate (same as shim mod) to make the copper pipe. And I bought an aluminum punching mesh 0.5mm (I think) because I cannot find a copper mesh on Amazon Japan here.
View attachment 921973View attachment 921974
I used heat insulating double-side adhesive to seal the fan border and brown heat insulating tape to seal the copper plate not to overheat other components. Between the heatsink and copper pipe I used a heated (0.5mm, 6mW only) to hold the pipe in place. On top I used the brown heat insulating tape again to ensure no contact and heating up of bottom case.
Results
I found that the startup CPU temperature with shim mod alone still reaches 100 degree. But with heated mod it was 70 degree. This one is 80 degree but the temperature drops very quickly with fan spinning. I used TG Pro to setup a custom profile (4500 rpm always and maximum 7000 rpm over 90 degree).
I ran Geekbench Multicore CPU test and found that the score is very good
3169 (shim mod)
3595 (shim + heatpipe mod)
View attachment 921976
The heat profile also proves that heat is transferred properly. The frequency (light blue) during early low utilization part of the test caught up the requested one (pink) than shim pad alone. And heavy load part is better also (though heatpad mod is better because the heatpipe and fan speed capacity). You can find the comparison quoted from DanSilov thread below.
View attachment 921978
Conclusion
I am very happy to have this little reversible fix to help my Air performing better. I don't want the touch bar, and this mod helps me to have a comfortable use of my Air for years (at least I think). Thank you all.
Thanks. What paste did you used? I only have Arctic MX-4 on my hands.
I repasted again and with shim + heat pipe mod (I am too lazy to remove the heat pipe),
my score rises to 3713. I did it 3 times, and its all above 3700. Wow.
View attachment 922650
And more importantly, the frequency profile is perfect for me. The pink (requested frequency) line completely overlapped with the blue (average frequency) line THROUGH the test. That means the CPU provided what was needed for the test without thermal restricted. And the temperature never reached 100 degree.
View attachment 922651
Thanks! I mostly backed out because I didn't want to leave my MacBook open for an hour or so while I entertained my guests.The whole idea of removing the heatsink and adding a shim might sound scary, but in fact it is a very easy mod. Congratulations!
Both are good 0.3 is a bit betterWhat size of a shim is better - a 0.5mm one or 0.3 one?
Can you guys see the diff in normal life use? Isn't the battery draining too fast now?
I installed the shim in my MBA within the first 15 minutes of ownership so i can't really compare the battery life. It's way more than any other notebook i've used, though. The key motivating factor for me wasn't necessarily getting more performance as it was not wanting to hear that stupid useless fan ever again while watching YT, etc. The only time i hear it now is during* a Cinebench R20 benchmark.
Oh so you have installed the shim only, without the thermal pad? Btw. was it a 0.3mm shim?
Yeah, the thermals are indefensible. Otherwise, i love this thing lolHow poorly that notebook was designed lol. My old 2015 MacBook air almost never has fan spinning.
Well done, that's one great and extensive testing! Thank you for sharing the detailed analysis!
I've first tried the shim mod before applying the pad, you can check the post with the results here.
You can get to 1300/4000 in Geekbench with both pad and shim.
You would always want to ensure that you unplug battery.This is a silly question, but is the battery disconnected prior to commencing work on the heatsink?
I wonder how much it will thake for the retained heat to damage the different electric and electronic parts, e.g. battery, condensers, resistances and so on. It seems to me there's not even an in/out opening for the airflow.How poorly that notebook was designed lol. My old 2015 MacBook air almost never has fan spinning.
Of course there is.I wonder how much it will thake for the retained heat to damage the different electric and electronic parts, e.g. battery, condensers, resistances and so on. It seems to me there's not even an in/out opening for the airflow.
In tandem with the gap between die and heatsink.The cooling system isnt that bad, it cools all components and the bottom. Its more than enough for this cpu the problem is the thermal paste.
Update: went ahead with the heatsink and heat pad mods and oh...my...
The performance gains are absolutely amazing, but the temperature drop and stability is even more impressive in my opinion. This has turned my MBA into the powerhouse it ought to be.
View attachment 925596
Left side is pre-mod GeekBench testing; right side is post-mod. Look at how much more stable the frequencies and temperatures are. Also, note how much lower the temps are post-mod, with only a single 100*C peak.
GeekBench before the mods:
View attachment 925597
GeekBench after the mods:
View attachment 925598
I added a couple of my test results in PhightinPhils26's spreadsheet here. I'll continue some tests tomorrow, but early indicators are extremely positive.
Lastly, I documented much of the process and put together a thread with instructions here. This is 100% credited to everyone here like @DanSilov, @Robotronic, @kinchee87, etc. Thanks for the advice and how-tos. I couldn't be happier with the results.