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Unfortunately, I have not had a 17" beta tester yet, so you would be the first to find out. Perhaps @flehman can chime in on this one.

Yes, I’m installing on a 2010 17”. I can comment on the physical install after I get the card and get it done but I am only running 10.13.6 and can’t comment on the Mojave issue.
 
I just ordered one. I will let everyone know how it works in my Early 2011 MBP 17. Now I am off to cancel that vaporware QuickerTek Ucard order that I NEVER received any information status from QuickerTek after ordering it over TWO months ago.

THANK YOU Troop231!

I selected expedited shipping so should have an update sometime this week regarding installation and results! YAY!
 
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I should mention (it again) that I have improved the layout of the longest (Bluetooth) antenna. I have taken the wire and rotated it around the cards unused screw post. This uses up any slack and prevents any antennas from crossing over each other .
 

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Three buyers received their cards today, and I'm eager to hear how the installs went. You know who you are ;)
 
I am one of them, but must confess this week at work is pretty wall-to-wall so I’m not sure when I might get round to it.

One question I am turning in my mind before I do the switch is about different possible adhesives for securing the bottom of the card against the optical drive. Have you observed any issue with heat compromising the scotch tape? Top of optical drive doesn’t seem like a spot that should get super hot, but under enough use the whole thing can get pretty toasty.
 
I am one of them, but must confess this week at work is pretty wall-to-wall so I’m not sure when I might get round to it.

One question I am turning in my mind before I do the switch is about different possible adhesives for securing the bottom of the card against the optical drive. Have you observed any issue with heat compromising the scotch tape? Top of optical drive doesn’t seem like a spot that should get super hot, but under enough use the whole thing can get pretty toasty.
I used heavy duty packing tape to secure my 2 cards. With my testing I have downloaded over 50GB of data and the card itself doesn't really get hot. Once the lid is on there isn't a whole lot of room for different types of adheasives. Me and @troop231 agreed on this solution so cards won't get damaged when being pulled up from the optical drive.
 
thanks @troop231 ! i may hold out until an option exists without having to modify the subwoofer. all the other stuff, i have no problem modifying the case or mount.

It only requires the removal of the subwoofer. The subwoofer is so small it doesn't contribute to audio 'quality' very much.
 
I just ordered one. I will let everyone know how it works in my Early 2011 MBP 17. Now I am off to cancel that vaporware QuickerTek Ucard order that I NEVER received any information status from QuickerTek after ordering it over TWO months ago.

THANK YOU Troop231!

I selected expedited shipping so should have an update sometime this week regarding installation and results! YAY!

Do you have Mojave patched onto that thing? Waiting to hear how it is. I’m assuming it’s fine.
 
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Just to clarify, I hope you didn't think that I meant that the bottom lid doesn't need modified anymore, because it still does.

I understand that. For some reason, I thought there was more modification on the subwoofer. The other modifications do not seem to bad with the help (and careful use) of a Dremel.
 
Three buyers received their cards today, and I'm eager to hear how the installs went. You know who you are ;)
I installed my card last night and immediately broke the solder joints upon install. I used my soldering iron with a tip and solder that were far too large and got the card soldered back together albeit using some solder wick after bridging a few pads together. To my surprise the card worked and showed 1gb in the network monitor utility. My access points are both capable of 1300mb however the best I have seen is 527mb, still better than what I got with the old card though
 

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I installed my card last night and immediately broke the solder joints upon install. I used my soldering iron with a tip and solder that as far too large and got the card soldered back together albeit using some solder wick after bridging a few pads together. To my surprise the card worked and showed 1gb in the network monitor utility. My access points are both capable of 1300mb however the best I have seen is 527mb, still better than what I got with the old card though
Do you have the longest antenna wire in position 3? That wire was originally for Bluetooth on the a1286 and on the iMac card position 3 is bluetooth.
On average I range from 527-702mb on the second floor of my house and on the first floor it's 702/867/1053/1170mb. Are you using an Airport Extreme?

EDIT: NM I just saw your pic now, everything is correct.

My speeds went up for me when I updated to 10.14.4 are you also on 10.14.4?
 
Yes, longest wire to J3 I followed the J numbers from the old card. I saw your edit confirming this. I have a TP-Link AC1750 access point and a sagecom 5260 from my cable company and I only use the 5ghz band.

EDIT: yes I am using Mojave 10.14.4
 
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I installed my card last night and immediately broke the solder joints upon install. I used my soldering iron with a tip and solder that were far too large and got the card soldered back together albeit using some solder wick after bridging a few pads together. To my surprise the card worked and showed 1gb in the network monitor utility. My access points are both capable of 1300mb however the best I have seen is 527mb, still better than what I got with the old card though

Wow, that's terrible, but glad you sorted it out. I noticed it looks like you're using a 13" with the subwoofer still installed; that wasn't recommended to do and may have contributed to the breakage of the joints. There's not enough space in there.

@highvoltage12v and I spent a long time discussing these space issues with the 13" the past few months while I was developing the board.
 
I saw your edit and yes I followed the J numbers from the old card to match up each wire.
Wow, that's terrible, but glad you sorted it out. I noticed it looks like you're using a 13" with the subwoofer still installed; that wasn't recommended to do and may have contributed to the breakage of the joints. There's not enough space in there.

@highvoltage12v and I spent a long time discussing these space issues with the 13" the past few months while I was developing the board.

I broke the solder joints by pressing the card down onto the double sided tape. I guess I have a heavy hand, but the card connector fits with room to spare into subwoofer housing. I used a dremel and trimmed the bottom cover and everything fit fine. I will try adjusting my access point settings to improve my connection speeds. My neighborhood does have a fair amount of wifi however, I have tried my best to select channels with the lowest amount of interference.
 
I saw your edit and yes I followed the J numbers from the old card to match up each wire.


I broke the solder joints by pressing the card down onto the double sided tape. I guess I have a heavy hand, but the card connector fits with room to spare into subwoofer housing. I used a dremel and trimmed the bottom cover and everything fit fine. I will try adjusting my access point settings to improve my connection speeds. My neighborhood does have a fair amount of wifi however, I have tried my best to select channels with the lowest amount of interference.

You won't be able to put the bottom lid back on with the card in that location, hence the need to remove the subwoofer. I don't recommend double sided tape because if and when you want to take the card out at a later point in time, you risk damaging the card by pulling on it. :)
 
I saw your edit and yes I followed the J numbers from the old card to match up each wire.


I broke the solder joints by pressing the card down onto the double sided tape. I guess I have a heavy hand, but the card connector fits with room to spare into subwoofer housing. I used a dremel and trimmed the bottom cover and everything fit fine. I will try adjusting my access point settings to improve my connection speeds. My neighborhood does have a fair amount of wifi however, I have tried my best to select channels with the lowest amount of interference.
I have the best experience with channel 153.
 
I saw your edit and yes I followed the J numbers from the old card to match up each wire.


I broke the solder joints by pressing the card down onto the double sided tape. I guess I have a heavy hand, but the card connector fits with room to spare into subwoofer housing. I used a dremel and trimmed the bottom cover and everything fit fine. I will try adjusting my access point settings to improve my connection speeds. My neighborhood does have a fair amount of wifi however, I have tried my best to select channels with the lowest amount of interference.

Can you post more photos that can benefit other 13" owners and myself? Namely, can you screw down the top left screw point of the bottom lid into the original and trimmed AirPort bracket? Lastly, did you trim the subwoofer as I did in my earlier photos in this thread?

Thank you! :)
 
Can you post more photos that can benefit other 13" owners and myself? Namely, can you screw down the top left screw point of the bottom lid into the original and trimmed AirPort bracket? Lastly, did you trim the subwoofer as I did in my earlier photos in this thread?

Thank you! :)

I cut the edge off the stock wifi card bracket with 2 screws into the chassis so I can still have all the screws in bottom cover. The wifi card is stuck to data doubler hard drive chassis(in place of superdrive) with double sided tape. I trimmed the subwoofer to allow the card to fit and just maybe it will provide some sound vs it missing. I have thought about using epoxy to seal the subwoofer back up and seeing how a smaller enclosure works.
 

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I cut the edge off the stock wifi card bracket with 2 screws into the chassis so I can still have all the screws in bottom cover. The wifi card is stuck to data doubler hard drive chassis(in place of superdrive) with double sided tape. I trimmed the subwoofer to allow the card to fit and just maybe it will provide some sound vs it missing. I have thought about using epoxy to seal the subwoofer back up and seeing how a smaller enclosure works.

So, you modified the bottom lid like I showed? Can I see what that looks like? Thank you!
 
So, you modified the bottom lid like I showed? Can I see what that looks like? Thank you!

Here is a picture of the bottom lid and a piece of the stock wifi card fixture that allows every screw to be used for the bottom lid.
 

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Here is a picture of the bottom lid and a piece of the stock wifi card fixture that allows every screw to be used for the bottom lid.

Nice, is the bottom lid tight going on due to the height/thickness of the 802.11ac card?
 
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