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Edge

macrumors regular
Jul 28, 2005
143
34
Sounds like maybe you could plug in some sort of USB ribbon cable pin connector to make an "internal" USB port available for some reason (like to a webcam)?

There does appear to be another unused 4-pin header on the JRY board (nearest the HDMI port, markings shown top left in the below image) with pins marked as USB5V, USB-, USB+, GND which is likely for another internal device or port.

The six pin header (nearest the USB hub controller) has pins marked RX, TX, Gnd, DM3, DP3, VCC which indicates a serial TTL interface from what I can gather with my very limited knowledge.
S0614845c495b420c9bb95569cf1473cfi.jpg

The USB header is not populated in this second image of the front of the card, but my board has this header populated as is the HDMI ribbon cable socket below, and the supplemental 12V input header on the board next to the 12V 5.5/2.5 female socket (top left, below)

S69449d93ee164585816d4a813bfaecc3Z.jpg
 
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Semmo

macrumors member
Jun 23, 2020
33
18
Sure. I haven't measured anything, so it's really just a subjective EQ.

Code:
Preamp: 0 dB
Filter 1:  ON  PK  Fc 32 Hz  Gain 3.31 dB  Q 1.41
Filter 2:  ON  PK  Fc 64 Hz  Gain 4.9 dB  Q 1.41
Filter 3:  ON  PK  Fc 125 Hz  Gain 0 dB  Q 1.41
Filter 4:  ON  PK  Fc 250 Hz  Gain -13.08 dB  Q 1.41
Filter 5:  ON  PK  Fc 500 Hz  Gain -2.81 dB  Q 1.41
Filter 6:  ON  PK  Fc 1000 Hz  Gain -5.49 dB  Q 1.41
Filter 7:  ON  PK  Fc 2000 Hz  Gain -9.91 dB  Q 1.41
Filter 8:  ON  PK  Fc 4000 Hz  Gain 8.11 dB  Q 1.41
Filter 9:  ON  PK  Fc 8000 Hz  Gain 8.77 dB  Q 1.41
Filter 10:  ON  PK  Fc 16000 Hz  Gain 6.46 dB  Q 1.41

View attachment 2357794
Perfect this really made a huge difference! thank you
 
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ml_troncoso

macrumors newbie
Mar 20, 2024
1
0
Hi!

I have connected my panel to a R1811 v4 board and to these crossover sound boards (https://www.ebay.com/itm/235011654612). My problem is that when I have the data (EDP/VBO) cable connected to the driver board, I get no sound from the iMac speakers. If I disconnect that cable, the sound works as expected. In both cases I have selected to play sound from the DisplayPort.

Any ideas on what I should try?
 

PaulD-UK

macrumors 6502a
Oct 23, 2009
872
471
No, the U49 is different, and is supplied with a separate Backlight CC board, as seen in this post earlier,#268 by @shapa.


Since the iMac LM270QQ1 panel is only an 8-bit panel which uses FRC electronics to dither its display to appear 10-bit,
there isn't a huge obvious difference in the look of 8 or 10-bits.
Its just that the 256 gradient steps of an 8-bit image are not seen when a true 10-bit gradient is seen displayed within the mage, if the panel is capable of 10-bit.

This image shows* the difference - or not on an 8=bit panel:

* Its actually a cheat, as internet compression doesn't reproduce the gradient fully - AIUI.
 
Last edited:
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PaulD-UK

macrumors 6502a
Oct 23, 2009
872
471
Your link is to a JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 board at the usual AliE price.
Here's the price from a supplier who supports the product. Your choice:

 

Semmo

macrumors member
Jun 23, 2020
33
18
Anyone know how to rename the audio device name in Mac OS? plist or something.
I have a sort of work around but it shows the old G27 name etc. would love to clean it up a bit.
Screenshot 2024-03-23 at 09.35.51.png
 

Semmo

macrumors member
Jun 23, 2020
33
18
No, the U49 is different, and is supplied with a separate Backlight CC board, as seen in this post earlier,#268 by @shapa.


Since the iMac LM270QQ1 panel is only an 8-bit panel which uses FRC electronics to dither its display to appear 10-bit,
there isn't a huge obvious difference in the look of 8 or 10-bits.
Its just that the 256 gradient steps of an 8-bit image are not seen when a true 10-bit gradient is seen displayed within the mage, if the panel is capable of 10-bit.

This image shows* the difference - or not on an 8=bit panel:

* Its actually a cheat, as internet compression doesn't reproduce the gradient fully - AIUI.
Hi Paul. Which panels are true 10bit?

And does anyone know what the apple panels are like if you remove the glass? is the panel useable? any downsides?
I'm maybe looking into a project to create my own frame
 
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PaulD-UK

macrumors 6502a
Oct 23, 2009
872
471
The only Apple desktop LCD panel that is true 10-bit is the Pro Display XDR.
The Apple Studio Display (and presumably the 24" iMac) are the same as the LM 270QQ1 27" panel.

They are all 8-bit + Frame Rate Control, which dithers the output to mimic 10-bit.
"FRC cycles between different color shades within each new frame to simulate an intermediate shade."


Quote: "does anyone know what the apple panels are like if you remove the glass? is the panel useable? "
Everything has been done in this thread. ;)

Not sure if @thewilewizzard actually answers your question in post #815
but he shows pictures of how to dismantle a screen panel:

"Comrades. Greetings to everyone. I am from Russia and would like to share my experience. I took out a broken imac 5k lm270qq1 matrix and decided to glue the glass from imac 2010 on it and assemble it in the same case. With a 0.1 mm molybdenum string and a blowtold dryer. We worked together with my friend, he warmed with a hair dryer, and I worked with a string.

The first thing I did was to remove the metal panel and left only a glass and matrix sandwich (the reflective scattering films were removed aside, which was a big mistake) now I think that you can paste the matrix without removing it from the metal body.

After I took off the glass, I started laying the films in my place, which was very difficult to do, they constantly slip off their place, so I grabbed them with painter's tape. After that, I screwed the plastic guides to the body and finally centered all the films and matrix in the case.

Then the most difficult thing was to clean the matrix of oca glue and MECHANIC 8333 spray helped me with this, which in turn is very similar to acetone in smell and in the way it destroys plastic. After I cleaned the matrix, I began to cover up the area with black sealant where you can see the glowing halo from the backlight and after it finally dried, I centered the glass and glued it to the sealant on the back of the plastic guides.

Of course, it was not without mistakes, when removing the glass with a molybdenum string, the polarizing filter was damaged and now there is a slightly inclear image, the pieces had to be glued to transparent glue. I'll post here a photo of the work, in not very good quality, it may be useful."
 
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iampivot

macrumors newbie
Oct 9, 2006
8
16
Separating the LCD panel from the glass itself is indeed possible. It's a lot of work and very messy. And it's way too easy to damage the LCD film layers. It might be an easy way to get a panel at a reasonable price though.

PXL_20211121_090904318.jpg


PXL_20211121_092339967.jpg


PXL_20211121_094859586.jpg
 
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antoneb

macrumors newbie
Mar 23, 2024
1
0
There does appear to be another unused 4-pin header on the JRY board (nearest the HDMI port, markings shown top left in the below image) with pins marked as USB5V, USB-, USB+, GND which is likely for another internal device or port.

The six pin header (nearest the USB hub controller) has pins marked RX, TX, Gnd, DM3, DP3, VCC which indicates a serial TTL interface from what I can gather with my very limited knowledge.
S0614845c495b420c9bb95569cf1473cfi.jpg

The USB header is not populated in this second image of the front of the card, but my board has this header populated as is the HDMI ribbon cable socket below, and the supplemental 12V input header on the board next to the 12V 5.5/2.5 female socket (top left, below)

S69449d93ee164585816d4a813bfaecc3Z.jpg
Does anybody know if this one handles the 10bit signal (even though the panal is 8bit-FRC). The price of this board is really nice. It makes some ambiguous claims of the usb C handling charge and signal, but I'm going to assume they didn't do video over usb C???
 

PaulD-UK

macrumors 6502a
Oct 23, 2009
872
471
No reason why you shouldn't get 8 bit video via USB-C input. The main video chip supports it.

The board is designed to fit in a Television, and the 4-pin socket seems to be a USB 2 socket for thumb drive video input (I guess) and the HDMI pins on the side are for an extra third HDMI input socket on the side of the TV - most TVs have 3 HDMI inputs.

The 6 pin socket is for USB/5v TTL logic input, possibly to control the color balance of the display. Or maybe to flash an Eprom firmware update for the board.

The 8-bit output is probably baked in to the circuitry, as the board is obviously designed to go in a budget TV.
There seems to be very little support info available, probably because of its budget price

The only one with any (minimal) support documentation is the R1811, which is more than twice the price.
 
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Semmo

macrumors member
Jun 23, 2020
33
18
Separating the LCD panel from the glass itself is indeed possible. It's a lot of work and very messy. And it's way too easy to damage the LCD film layers. It might be an easy way to get a panel at a reasonable price though.

Wow, ok this looks hard. so the screen isn't just glued around the edge, it is actually completely glued lcd surface to glass surface? how is the image quality? if it is a downgrade I will just cut the glass as small as possible to my custom frame
 

iampivot

macrumors newbie
Oct 9, 2006
8
16
Wow, ok this looks hard. so the screen isn't just glued around the edge, it is actually completely glued lcd surface to glass surface? how is the image quality? if it is a downgrade I will just cut the glass as small as possible to my custom frame
There's glue everywhere. If you manage to separate it the image quality is the same. If you want a proper glass front you might have to re-glue the entire LCD panel to the new glass front. You can see in the last image that there's still glue residue left. I didn't have the magic dissolver which ipad repairer who separate digitizers from LCD panels every day have, so I had to resort to scraping with a credit card and IPA.
 

vistavizion

macrumors newbie
Feb 16, 2024
6
0
Greetings Heroes!

This thread has been an invaluable source of INFOrmation and INSPOration for my own DIY 5k project.

Combing through this thread has answered almost every query I've had.

Here's one I still seek an answer for...

Question: Can anyone offer specific recommendations for a webcam that has worked well in these iMacs, please?

Is there a webcam with a built in microphone? If not, I'd love to hear specific solutions to the microphone issue.

Please tell me what to buy, and where to buy it!

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

-PaulNYC
 

Aiwi

macrumors member
Oct 21, 2010
94
89
Greetings Heroes!

This thread has been an invaluable source of INFOrmation and INSPOration for my own DIY 5k project.

Combing through this thread has answered almost every query I've had.

Here's one I still seek an answer for...

Question: Can anyone offer specific recommendations for a webcam that has worked well in these iMacs, please?

Is there a webcam with a built in microphone? If not, I'd love to hear specific solutions to the microphone issue.

Please tell me what to buy, and where to buy it!

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

-PaulNYC

I used a imx258 sensor with 75° angle and auto focus. It's working really well. I also invisibly integrated a pair of analogue mems microphones and a USB sound card, so it looks like the stock mac.

You'll have much more context and information over here:

 
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vistavizion

macrumors newbie
Feb 16, 2024
6
0
Thank you Aiwi! I'm going to give your mems mic formula a go. I hope it's not beyond my very limited skills!

Are you happy with the quality and performance of that set up?

Would still love to hear about specific camera/mic links/leads/info from anyone else here who's got recommendations!

Happy tinkering!

Cheers,

-PaulNYC
 

Aiwi

macrumors member
Oct 21, 2010
94
89
Thank you Aiwi! I'm going to give your mems mic formula a go. I hope it's not beyond my very limited skills!

Are you happy with the quality and performance of that set up?

Would still love to hear about specific camera/mic links/leads/info from anyone else here who's got recommendations!

Happy tinkering!

Cheers,

-PaulNYC

Yeah I am very happy with that webcam and mic setup. Sounds really good and the webcam picture is very clear.
 

boulala

macrumors newbie
Feb 27, 2024
5
3
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fhall1

macrumors 68040
Dec 18, 2007
3,875
1,319
(Central) NY State of mind
I just came about this printable mount for the JRY-Board which i will use in my project:
All the credit to @Christian_66518 who designed the part.
This can surely also be adapted for other boards.
It would be nice if they included pictures of the mounts in "actual" use!
 
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vistavizion

macrumors newbie
Feb 16, 2024
6
0
If you connect a R9A18 board via a single USB-C>DisplayPort 1.4 8K cable you will get 5K/60fps (like the Luke M video)
Whether it's 8bit or 10 bit isn't clear.

Hmmm. I’m not getting 5k/60fps via a single USB-C>DisplayPort 1.4 8K cable from a R9A18 board

I’m getting 4k/30fps via a single USB-C>DisplayPort 1.4 8K cable from a R9A18 board



The only way I’ve been able to get 5k was attaching both display ports to BOTH of my MacBook pro’s TB inputs.
I get nothing at all when attaching both display ports through a StarTech Thunderbolt™ 3 to Dual DisplayPort Adapter… Of course it’s possible that the StarTech adapter is bad.. I’ve got to come up with a way to rule that out.

Ideas and advice welcome! Forgive this wonky formatting, I’m unsure what that’s all about.

As always, thank you to everyone for the wealth of information in this thread!

-Paul NYC
 

PaulD-UK

macrumors 6502a
Oct 23, 2009
872
471
What computer are you using?
What is the firmware of the R9A18?
That’s the number at the top of the OSD.
 
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