Getting ready to do a similar build using the stock PSU. In your photo, which soldered wire is positive, top or bottom?
Got a tip for us?
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DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)
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My previous post shows the top two pins (on the back of the PSU board) are negative and the bottom two pins are positive. On the 12 pin plug the top six pins are –ve and the bottom six +ve.
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Hi
Hi All, Just checking in after many months using my iMac monitor conversion every single day. It's been rock solid and flawless throughout. Hope this helps anyone thinking about embarking on this journey. Best of Luck
With different modifications, like using the rear port outlets. This company, PCBWay looks promising.
They can manufacture PCB cards and 3D print parts.
Is anyone skilled to create a card that will fit with USB-C outlet etc, with a 3D printed plate that ensure a stable and secure fit?
I assume many of us would purchase such an item, if it was available. To recreate the look and functions of the iMac. Without the cable(s) connected directly to the built in cards.
What are your thoughts on this?
They can manufacture PCB cards and 3D print parts.
Is anyone skilled to create a card that will fit with USB-C outlet etc, with a 3D printed plate that ensure a stable and secure fit?
I assume many of us would purchase such an item, if it was available. To recreate the look and functions of the iMac. Without the cable(s) connected directly to the built in cards.
What are your thoughts on this?
Something like a pre-built set of conversion parts would definitely help make these monitor conversions more doable for more people - there's an increasing number of 'obsoleted' old iMacs out there...
There are two situations that need to be catered for:
Connecting the monitor to a laptop, and using the original iMac stand.
Or connected to a bigger desktop rig, with multiple monitors on VESA arms.
The laptop conversion would benefit from reusing the iMacs inbuilt USB-A/C ports - for the I/O.
A VESA conversion would be better served by a a properly designed use of the RAM hatch for the I/O, whilst using the iMac's USB ports for the IR receiver and the Control Strip buttons.
Most of the ways people have solved these problems up to now have been a bit of a botch, so someone with design skills would need to do the engineering drawings for a 'proper ' solution - with people's needs taken into account.
Definitely worth thinking about.
Part of the problem when using intermediate ports on the iMac case is the availability of short length 5/8K cables to use in the interior.
This is especially critical for VESA mount conversions, as the computer to monitor cable will be longer through a VESA arm.
DP 1.4 8K cables shorter than 50cm seem to be non-existent, and a lot of the HDMI short cables seem to be for drone use, and max out at 4K.
There are two situations that need to be catered for:
Connecting the monitor to a laptop, and using the original iMac stand.
Or connected to a bigger desktop rig, with multiple monitors on VESA arms.
The laptop conversion would benefit from reusing the iMacs inbuilt USB-A/C ports - for the I/O.
A VESA conversion would be better served by a a properly designed use of the RAM hatch for the I/O, whilst using the iMac's USB ports for the IR receiver and the Control Strip buttons.
Most of the ways people have solved these problems up to now have been a bit of a botch, so someone with design skills would need to do the engineering drawings for a 'proper ' solution - with people's needs taken into account.
Definitely worth thinking about.
Part of the problem when using intermediate ports on the iMac case is the availability of short length 5/8K cables to use in the interior.
This is especially critical for VESA mount conversions, as the computer to monitor cable will be longer through a VESA arm.
DP 1.4 8K cables shorter than 50cm seem to be non-existent, and a lot of the HDMI short cables seem to be for drone use, and max out at 4K.
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I’m planning to order some of those flat ribbon cables that claim DP1.4/HDMI2.1 capability and test … (they come in lengths down to 15cm I think..)
Somewhat disappointing response on Ali messages from ADT-Link store ... (there are mentions that the chip they put behind the female socket is uni-directional, and needs to be target-facing not source-facing. Slightly weird but I guess they're envisaging it carrying signal from a graphics card to somewhere else..). Am not a signal attenuation expert by any means but I would have thought that a very short ribbon (without chip), and with some EM shielding around the end(s) would sustain the higher bitrates?
Equally, have found https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004501633695.html which asserts 8K60 compatibility and comes in a 30cm length. Haven't tracked down an HDMI 2.1 equivalent yet though.
(removed screenshot of AE chat on the basis I don't think Macrumors yet trusts me with graphics ..)
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Could someone with the JRY board run this test and report back if it is refreshing properly, I am trying to figure out if it is worth it to go through an exchange process for the same board.
As I'm putting an order together at a certain 2-letter supplier of electronics components (Romeo Sugar, let's call it), I wonder whether anyone's tried wiring up a little 4-axis button-joystick (example available for £2.93 ex VAT) in place of the control strip for their board + the iMac power button? Much easier to expose through a hole in the shell or hatch. I'm anyway going to get bits to make up some iMac PSU connector (Molex 12-way) to 5.5/2.5mm barrel cables (each with 2+, 2- 0.75mm2 cables to handle potential current). Does anyone know what the connector is on the end of the iMac power switch wire?
If the joystick switch for £2.93 is the tiny surface mount one, it’s only just slightly bigger that the Control Strip switches.
The main problem with that would be that you accidentally switch the board off while trying to move in another direction.
The power switch plug fits into a tiny surface mount socket on the PSU, probably something by Molex.
Difficult to source and hard to solder connections to.
Just chop it off and solder extension wires to reach your new switch.
The main problem with that would be that you accidentally switch the board off while trying to move in another direction.
The power switch plug fits into a tiny surface mount socket on the PSU, probably something by Molex.
Difficult to source and hard to solder connections to.
Just chop it off and solder extension wires to reach your new switch.
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I quite agree wrt annoying centre-click power so I’d probably just keep the iMac button for power and the 4 directions for the other 4 buttons.
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I’ve ordered a few models and the should hopefully arrive this week.
Pleased to see that it’s not only me who came up with this idea.
Can share my thoughts once I try them.
Re the power off, I actually thought not to wire to the joystick, as the iMac power button is good enough for me.
So it could be a great mitigation for the issue mentioned.
Just like games give higher fps performance with a better graphics card, I’m not sure if the computer’s graphics performance is a factor in Safari’s (or other browser's) fps capabilities at 5K?
However since this YT video is only 720/60p you should be able to see every 'tick' on the clock.
I can with my R1811 with an M1 mini.
However since this YT video is only 720/60p you should be able to see every 'tick' on the clock.
I can with my R1811 with an M1 mini.
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These might be worth a shot, 15cm - reviews hit or miss on 1.4 compatibility, some say yes some say no.
Poyiccot DisplayPort 1.4 Cable, 8K DisplayPort Extension Cable, 90 Degree Displayport 1.4 Extender Ultra HD DP to DP Extension Cable, up to 8K/60Hz, 4K/144Hz for Video/Audio, 15cm (Down Angle)
8K Displayport 1.4 Cable Specification: Bandwidth: 32.4Gbps Refresh Rate: 8K@60Hz, 5K@60Hz, 4K@144Hz, 4K@60Hz, 2K@240Hz, 2K@165Hz HDCP 2.2, HDCP 1.4, HDR.. Backward compatible with DisplayPort 1.3/1.2. Dynamic HDR, Multi-Screen Display Conductor Material : 28AWG Tinned Copper Cable Length: 15cm ...
www.amazon.com
The computers I’m testing the board out with are more than capable of driving 6K displays at 60Hz, so what I’m seeing is either the board or maybe the display itself
re: Ways to 'control' the control board, buttons, joysticks, etc.
Wouldnt it be nice to have a universal board that interfaced directly with this common 'control board' pinout in such a way that instead of physical switches, it is an attiny listening for a signal from a cheap IR module?
I think that would be a great solution for not having to reinvent this wheel on all types of cheap tablets, screens and lcd driver boards. Seems like a common design concern for anyone doing console mods or custom handhelds too.
I have not studied all of the various control board pinouts but i imagine the design could compensate with the ability to re-arrange the pins. This would bring sane IR control to devices that dont even support it as well!
Thoughts?
Wouldnt it be nice to have a universal board that interfaced directly with this common 'control board' pinout in such a way that instead of physical switches, it is an attiny listening for a signal from a cheap IR module?
I think that would be a great solution for not having to reinvent this wheel on all types of cheap tablets, screens and lcd driver boards. Seems like a common design concern for anyone doing console mods or custom handhelds too.
I have not studied all of the various control board pinouts but i imagine the design could compensate with the ability to re-arrange the pins. This would bring sane IR control to devices that dont even support it as well!
Thoughts?
Thanks. I’ve got a 30cm one very like that on its way (though the fact this one’s description is “HDMI CABLE” when it’s clearly DP in the pics is a touch unsettling ..!). The flat ribbon ones look like they “ought” to be the way (for internal hookups) - Anyone know whether the bandwidth limitations are in crosstalk between conductors or external interference around the terminals?These might be worth a shot, 15cm - reviews hit or miss on 1.4 compatibility, some say yes some say no.
Poyiccot DisplayPort 1.4 Cable, 8K DisplayPort Extension Cable, 90 Degree Displayport 1.4 Extender Ultra HD DP to DP Extension Cable, up to 8K/60Hz, 4K/144Hz for Video/Audio, 15cm (Down Angle)
8K Displayport 1.4 Cable Specification: Bandwidth: 32.4Gbps Refresh Rate: 8K@60Hz, 5K@60Hz, 4K@144Hz, 4K@60Hz, 2K@240Hz, 2K@165Hz HDCP 2.2, HDCP 1.4, HDR.. Backward compatible with DisplayPort 1.3/1.2. Dynamic HDR, Multi-Screen Display Conductor Material : 28AWG Tinned Copper Cable Length: 15cm ...www.amazon.com
Without knowing the structure of the cabling and terminal attachments, if they are simply straight strands of wire - probably both.
I might suggest a DIY approach here by outsourcing the modelling stage.
I remembered a mention of a serviced called Fiverrr where it should be possible to request a 3D model preparation by some fair amount of money.
https://www.fiverr.com/
Personally, I’ve got curious about 3D printing recently and a Bambu A1 should be in my hands soon.
Can’t promise that I’ll surely come up with a model myself.
But I’ll be happy giving it a shot with printing, fitting and feedback 🙂
I have just run the testufo.com/frameskipping test again.
Quit all other apps, and ran the test in full screen.
Recorded a video on my iPhone at 60fps and slo-mo 120fps. Both videos indicate to me that my JRY with 2015 5k panel are outputting 60Hz.
I see you have tested a USB-C cable and a DP cable, which might eliminate the cables as culprits.
I also note the JRY board (or one that appears identical in every way except the 40-pin cable) is being sold as a 4K driver board, likely with different firmware. Is it possible you have been sold one with the wrong firmware?
HiI found these for DP1.4 on Amazon (UK). I suspect it's a reseller of the AliExpress ones... For USB-C (Thunderbolt 3?) I ordered one from AliExpress - it's not 90 degrees, but (promises) 40Gbps. It has not yet arrived, I'll write something up here once it has (should be within the next 3-4 days).
ADT-Link DisplayPort 1.4 Cable Angled 8K 4K HDR 165Hz 60Hz Display Port Adapter For Video PC Laptop TV Extension Cable (20cm,P1-P4T)
ADT-Link DisplayPort 1.4 Cable Angled 8K 4K HDR 165Hz 60Hz Display Port Adapter For Video PC Laptop TV Extension Cable (20cm,P1-P4T)www.amazon.co.uk
@maltenuhn did the adt-link extenders work for dp1.4 - ie 5k60hz at 10bit colour?
T19 board has finally arrived (after a 5 day stay at his majesty’s (customs and excise) pleasure…)
Not hooked up yet but looks tidy.
Delighted to share that the joystick idea seems to working great.
I’ve ordered a few models and the should hopefully arrive this week.
Pleased to see that it’s not only me who came up with this idea.
Can share my thoughts once I try them.
Re the power off, I actually thought not to wire to the joystick, as the iMac power button is good enough for me.
So it could be a great mitigation for the issue mentioned.
As a proof of concept, I managed to wire it to the JRY’s control strip and scroll through the menu.
Joystick controls
I ordered 2 models and the bigger one is a better suite actually. Size can be compared against the Apple TV remote.
Another item that makes me happy is that the joystick seems to fit nicely into the headphone jack cutout on the Mac case and even have enough space to travel.
Once I figure out how to design a 3D model for the mounting points of it and the female cable connectors, I’ll try to place it inside. And re-wire directly to the board.
Unfortunately, the idea with the design outsource did not work out quite at all. No one was keen to take this project out, except for one individual quoting $335.
So learning Fusion 360 myself 🙂
You can also see on the video printed 3D stand for the iMac that does job quite well.
Yet another idea that can be beneficial for others. The model is not mine but I adjusted the height myself.
Can be taken from here and printed at a local 3D printing shop.
T19 is up and running for first test - via thunderbolt/usb-c to DP looks like 5k60 RGB I think based on appearance of the test image?. Powered from the iMac psu which does buzz a bit but I’m hoping it’ll be inaudible once the glass is back on the shell. Am wondering about drilling a set of vent holes in the top of the shell to allow passive ventilation. Do I run the risk of allowing loads of EM interference out?