DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

[erihp]

To members who have compiled lists of the various boards used for DIY monitor conversions, like @i486dx2-66 and @sebko200, yet another pair of new boards seem to have appeared...

With similarities to the Haijing T18 and T19, and with the same prefix as the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1... we now have the
JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1, and the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1, from Shenzhen JRY Xinxian Technology Co., Ltd.

iMac 27

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

There are pictures of each board under the Specifications>View More tab, and a description:

The JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 board is a UHD display driver board
Built in MPRT dimming function, maximum resolution
5120X2880/60HZ
*supports eDP screen interface signal output.
*supports multiple OSD languages to choose from.
*supports HDMI 2.1, HDCP supports version 2.3.
*supports DP1.4 signal input.
*supports headphone and speaker functions.
*supports OD acceleration function.
*supports Freesync functionality
*supports HDR function.

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Se749cf417ae74efb9ff955f75d49bc64z.png

The JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 board is a QUHD display driver board
Built in MPRT dimming function, the most efficient
The high resolution is 5120X2880/165Hz.
*Support EDP screen interface signal output.
*Supports multiple OSD languages to choose from.
*Supports HDMI 2.1, HDCP supports version 2.3.
*Supports DP1.4 signal input.
*Supports USB mouse, keyboard, and other functions
*Supports headphone and speaker functions.
*Supports TYPE-C video input and provides external 90W power supply.
*Supports OD acceleration function.
*Supports Freesync functionality.
*Supports HDR functionality.

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S0983ec39a9c3487a8d7f296ccc8870ff1.png

With typos/misleading differences in the listings and pics - The high resolution is 5120X2880/165Hz, and Both driver boards can achieve 5120X2880/165Hz. 10BIT, Supports HDMI2.1 etc, it remains to be seen what they actually can do.
The screenshot pic shows HDMI 5K RGB 10-bit using Windows, so presumably they are an advancement over the earlier boards?

No IR remote, however.

oooooh good find i will order one!

 

[sixpence668]

Hey all! I'm looking for a little advice. I'm in the final steps of converting my late 2014 27" iMac, using the r1811 board, and I've run into a couple issues. (see attached images for my setup, etc) I'm running it with a M2 Macbook Air via DP, and using Monitor Control.

First, I'm using the original speakers with the crossover boards listed elsewhere in this thread. They were working great in all my testing before assembly, but now that I have everything mounted they're no longer playing any sound. I thought my attachment cable might be the issue, so I replaced it and still no luck. Is it possible I have a short or something? I'm just not sure why it would only affecting the speakers.

Second, I'm getting sporadic flickering lines in the monitor. I included a picture of what I'm seeing (sorry for all the fingerprints, I haven't cleaned it yet 😅). Am I looking at a loose connection? Something else?

 

[baggiero]

The jumper settings won't make a huge difference, but disconnecting all four jumpers will mean that only the low frequency speaker will be connected, which is sure to be 4 ohms so if it still fails like that then a test with 8 ohm speakers, connected with all 4 jumpers removed (or no crossover at all) would be the next thing.

I wouldn't have thought the supply voltage makes much difference, as all the various boards all work at 12v for the backlight, and 5v/3.3v for all the IC's on the board.
Only the USB-C PD charging circuit uses 20v, and that produces no heat if it's unused, or not there...

The main video driver chip on the all these boards can go up to 65ºC before there is an overheat situation, but that is too hot for sustained use.
Several previous builders have fitted a fan to blow air over the heatsink.
I fitted a proper fan exhaust system for my R1811 build, which runs at very low speed, and I never feel any warmth whatsoever on the case exterior or air vent.
The screen panel in front of the board is about 2º C warmer than the edge of the screen.

Hopefully some of the other readers here who use a T18 board at 12v, like @jag001, would tell their experience.

Audio update - I get the same very intermittent audio via headphones plugged into the headphone jack on the board ...! (with the connection to the crossovers/speakers unplugged). To me that suggests a faulty board, right? Anyone had any luck with returns ...?!

 

[baggiero]

Hey all! I'm looking for a little advice. I'm in the final steps of converting my late 2014 27" iMac, using the r1811 board, and I've run into a couple issues. (see attached images for my setup, etc) I'm running it with a M2 Macbook Air via DP, and using Monitor Control.

First, I'm using the original speakers with the crossover boards listed elsewhere in this thread. They were working great in all my testing before assembly, but now that I have everything mounted they're no longer playing any sound. I thought my attachment cable might be the issue, so I replaced it and still no luck. Is it possible I have a short or something? I'm just not sure why it would only affecting the speakers.

Second, I'm getting sporadic flickering lines in the monitor. I included a picture of what I'm seeing (sorry for all the fingerprints, I haven't cleaned it yet 😅). Am I looking at a loose connection? Something else?

Not sure if it's me reading the photo correctly, but it looks like maybe you have headphones plugged into the board? If so, that would explain the no audio! The flickering lines are a bit beyond my expertise but I would imagine it's worth checking that the screen and backlight connectors are exactly aligned - the super-flat connectors definitely feel a bit difficult to ensure that every pin is properly engaged with the "edgeless" connector sockets.

 

[sixpence668]

Not sure if it's me reading the photo correctly, but it looks like maybe you have headphones plugged into the board? If so, that would explain the no audio! The flickering lines are a bit beyond my expertise but I would imagine it's worth checking that the screen and backlight connectors are exactly aligned - the super-flat connectors definitely feel a bit difficult to ensure that every pin is properly engaged with the "edgeless" connector sockets.

The cords currently connected are just short extensions so that I can access them through the ram door once it's all closed back up, so no headphones at the moment. Only the power cord and the DP input are actually connected. And thanks for the advice on the flat connectors! I'll go through and make sure they're all still properly seated.

 

[baggiero]

The cords currently connected are just short extensions so that I can access them through the ram door once it's all closed back up, so no headphones at the moment. Only the power cord and the DP input are actually connected. And thanks for the advice on the flat connectors! I'll go through and make sure they're all still properly seated.

A headphone cable extender will still cut out the audio going to the amp output I would expect - either via a physical cutout or logically, the board doesn't "know" there aren't headphones connected downstream. Worth a try, anyway!

 

[sixpence668]

A headphone cable extender will still cut out the audio going to the amp output I would expect - either via a physical cutout or logically, the board doesn't "know" there aren't headphones connected downstream. Worth a try, anyway!

You were exactly right!! Thank you for saving me from going nuts over this 😂

 

[PaulD-UK]

Do the screen flashes occur straight after startup or does it happen after something gets hot?
If so the board my not be getting enough ventilation, particularly at the back.

Too low a voltage from the PSU can cause screen flashes, a previous poster found this earlier in this thread when his PSU began to fail.

 

[baggiero]

I do wonder whether I should try something like this 24V supply: https://www.ledkia.com/uk/buy-indoo...aptors/72591-24v-dc-120w-5a-power-supply.html - the hottest bit of the back of the board is very much over the power supply socket. Is it possible there's not enough voltage to do audio decode properly somehow?

 

[PaulD-UK]

Yes, the audio would cut out if there is a voltage supply problem.
Probably not the problem but worth a try.

The two MosFet chips near the power jack, which supply the backlight inverter, can dissipate up to 150 watts, so yes they would be warm, even though the backlight shouldn't need anything like that level of power.
Part of the problem may be the the iMac's PSU being so over-powered - I think it can supply 28 amps!!!, so maybe the T19 board doesn't thrive with so much power on tap?
That shouldn't really be a problem though...

 

[Edge]

the hottest bit of the back of the board is very much over the power supply socket.

View attachment 2395999

Your photo indicates you've used two small wires from the iMac PSU. If they are undersized, or the connection at the board 5.5*2.5 DC input socket is dodgy, you would experience power-issues and/or heat.

Power issues *might* cause audio issues when driving too hard (i.e. requiring more power than is available), but with only headphones plugged in you're less likely to experience the exact same symptoms.

 

[baggiero]

Thanks - yeah, they’re 18AWG /0.75mm2 so apparently good up to ~8.5A - and they themselves don’t seem to be getting hot, but you could be right. I’d kinda have thought the screen graphics driving would be the first thing to show signs of power struggles though - and it seems rock solid. Anyway I’ll probably order a 24V psu and see if it helps.

Your photo indicates you've used two small wires from the iMac PSU. If they are undersized, or the connection at the board 5.5*2.5 DC input socket is dodgy, you would experience power-issues and/or heat.

Power issues *might* cause audio issues when driving too hard (i.e. requiring more power than is available), but with only headphones plugged in you're less likely to experience the exact same symptoms

 

[Kaeslin]

Part of the problem may be the the iMac's PSU being so over-powered - I think it can supply 28 amps!!!, so maybe the T19 board doesn't thrive with so much power on tap?
That shouldn't really be a problem though...

Definitely not. The built-in power supply provides 12.1 V and the converter board will draw the current it needs. All should be fine as long as the load current stays within the specified range of 0 to 25 A. However, make sure to provide adequate cross sections throughout the supply loop as significant voltage drops and local hot spots may otherwise result. 10 A or even 7 A still are substantial current values! Using the iMac's original wiring as a guidance, I used all 12 connector pins with six AWG20 (0.53 mm^2) wires in parallel for power and ground respectively (see contribution #1,409).

 

[baggiero]

Definitely not. The built-in power supply provides 12.1 V and the converter board will draw the current it needs. All should be fine as long as the load current stays within the specified range of 0 to 25 A. However, make sure to provide adequate cross sections throughout the supply loop as significant voltage drops and local hot spots may otherwise result. 10 A or even 7 A still are substantial current values! Using the iMac's original wiring as a guidance, I used all 12 connector pins with six AWG20 (0.53 mm^2) wires in parallel for power and ground respectively (see contribution #1,409).

Thanks. How did you attach your 2x6-way power to the board? I had a terrible time trying to solder just one wire each onto the terminations in the plug I bought from RS..!

 

[PaulD-UK]

My R1811 worked absolutely fine with a 24v 2 amp PSU for the first test I did when it arrived from China, so that's about all a RTD2718Q controller chip (used by all the boards except maybe the U49) + LED driver circuitry needs to run.
Obviously powering a USB-C PD laptop will increase the power draw requirements, and hence the heat generated.

My reservation about the iMac's PSU is that it is essentially two PSUs in tandem - a standby one and a higher power main one, and all the control circuitry to determine the load on the main circuit, and hence its output, is all on the iMac logic board, so missing if the logic board is removed.
What effect that will have in practice is unknown AFAIK?

I appreciate that the new video driver board will 'just draw the power it needs', but we don't have proper set of data sheet information to determine the operation parameters of these Chinese boards, so why your T19 runs at seemingly an order of magnitude hotter than my R1811 is a mystery???

Tests of the T18 done earlier in this thread seem to show only an acceptable difference in power consumption compared to my R1811 - mine used about 50 watts maximum and I think @i486dx2-66 measured about 70 watts...

 

[baggiero]

My R1811 worked absolutely fine with a 24v 2 amp PSU for the first test I did when it arrived from China, so that's about all a RTD2718Q controller chip (used by all the boards except maybe the U49) + LED driver circuitry needs to run.
Obviously powering a USB-C PD laptop will increase the power draw requirements, and hence the heat generated.

My reservation about the iMac's PSU is that it is essentially two PSUs in tandem - a standby one and a higher power main one, and all the control circuitry to determine the load on the main circuit, and hence its output, is all on the iMac logic board, so missing if the logic board is removed.
What effect that will have in practice is unknown AFAIK?

I appreciate that the new video driver board will 'just draw the power it needs', but we don't have proper set of data sheet information to determine the operation parameters of these Chinese boards, so why your T19 runs at seemingly an order of magnitude hotter than my R1811 is a mystery???

Tests of the T18 done earlier in this thread seem to show only an acceptable difference in power consumption compared to my R1811 - mine used about 50 watts maximum and I think @i486dx2-66 measured about 70 watts...

I could try putting my digi multimeter in high current ammeter mode in line into the power line …

 

[Kaeslin]

Thanks. How did you attach your 2x6-way power to the board? I had a terrible time trying to solder just one wire each onto the terminations in the plug I bought from RS..!

This was indeed not trivial and required the preparation of two tree-like cable structures, one for power, one for ground. I took two cables (AWG17 ≈ 1.0 mm^2 or 18 ≈ 0.8 mm^2), bent each into a U-shape and removed the insulation on 2 mm or so at the bend. Those cables were then soldered to the two terminals of the concentric plug. To do so, I had to open the eyelet of the center contact, the rear opening in the screw-on sleeve was also slightly widened. The four cables were then run to four uninsulated ferrules, each of which accepts three cables (AWG20 ≈ 0.5 mm^2) from the 12-pin Molex connector at the other end. All wires were soldered before the ferrules got insulated with shrink tube. Maybe this construction is a bit overdone for 7 to 8 A, but I wanted a safe and sound solution.

- the hottest bit of the back of the board is very much over the power supply socket. Is it possible there's not enough voltage to do audio decode properly somehow?

In my previous contribution, I should also have stressed out the importance of contact resistance. Not only must the concentric plug and the socket on the board perfectly match mechanically, they must also be kept free of grease, dust and oxidation. I was a bit surprised to see this type of connector was supposed to handle several amps and was tempted to solder the power cables instead, but ultimately decided to keep the board in its original state. However, I paid much attention to finding an adequate plug rated at 8 A and exactly fitting the 5.5/2.5 mm socket on the R9A18 board. Beware, concentric connectors come in a multitude of sizes and quality standards!

 

[sadontsev]

To members who have compiled lists of the various boards used for DIY monitor conversions, like @i486dx2-66 and @sebko200, yet another pair of new boards seem to have appeared...

With similarities to the Haijing T18 and T19, and with the same prefix as the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1... we now have the
JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1, and the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1, from Shenzhen JRY Xinxian Technology Co., Ltd.

iMac 27

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

There are pictures of each board under the Specifications>View More tab, and a description:

The JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 board is a UHD display driver board
Built in MPRT dimming function, maximum resolution
5120X2880/60HZ
*supports eDP screen interface signal output.
*supports multiple OSD languages to choose from.
*supports HDMI 2.1, HDCP supports version 2.3.
*supports DP1.4 signal input.
*supports headphone and speaker functions.
*supports OD acceleration function.
*supports Freesync functionality
*supports HDR function.

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Se749cf417ae74efb9ff955f75d49bc64z.png

The JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 board is a QUHD display driver board
Built in MPRT dimming function, the most efficient
The high resolution is 5120X2880/165Hz.
*Support EDP screen interface signal output.
*Supports multiple OSD languages to choose from.
*Supports HDMI 2.1, HDCP supports version 2.3.
*Supports DP1.4 signal input.
*Supports USB mouse, keyboard, and other functions
*Supports headphone and speaker functions.
*Supports TYPE-C video input and provides external 90W power supply.
*Supports OD acceleration function.
*Supports Freesync functionality.
*Supports HDR functionality.

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S0983ec39a9c3487a8d7f296ccc8870ff1.png

With typos/misleading differences in the listings and pics - The high resolution is 5120X2880/165Hz, and Both driver boards can achieve 5120X2880/165Hz. 10BIT, Supports HDMI2.1 etc, it remains to be seen what they actually can do.
The screenshot pic shows HDMI 5K RGB 10-bit using Windows, so presumably they are an advancement over the earlier boards?

No IR remote, however.

Nice finding!

Would definitely be interesting to see how they perform in real life compared to the previous gen.

Not sure if it’s a typo but both Ali and Taobao listings state the SA1 supports only HDMI 2.0.

The Taobao listing (only 1 seller seems to have them in stock) also has a video demoing one of those with the LG panel (QQ2) and Windows.
Nothing remarkable aside from the configuration it can push 10 bit at 5k 60hz via HDMI.

Retail in China at about $120-160

 

[PaulD-UK]

"...it can push 10 bit at 5k 60hz via HDMI."
RGB as well.
I don't know Windows so it may need a nVidia driver s/w to achieve this?

I haven't seen any evidence that the R1811 HDMI 2.1 card can do 5K RGB 10-bit over HDMI - on either MacOS or Windows...

 

[baggiero]

"...it can push 10 bit at 5k 60hz via HDMI."
RGB as well.
I don't know Windows so it may need a nVidia driver s/w to achieve this?

I haven't seen any evidence that the R1811 HDMI 2.1 card can do 5K RGB 10-bit over HDMI - on either MacOS or Windows...

If anyone is within range of W4 postcode with a 5k60 capable HDMI device I’ll happily let them plug in to the super-heated T19 to test it..!

 

[PaulD-UK]

For comparison there are three images from this post of mine #1169 showing the OSD of an R1811 HDMI 2.1 version running through:
DP 1.4 - 5K RGB 10-bit, and
HDMI 2.1 - 5K YUV/YCbCr422 10-bit at Reduced Bit Rate.
With an HDMI 2.0 connection it drops to 4K YCbCr422 8-bit RBR.

 

[baggiero]

Neat little 24V PSU (100W) appears to be very happy supplying the board, and with no significant PSU buzz (cf the iMac one which sounds like some angry bees are trapped inside) and much much lower temperature at the board (esp. around the power connector area - I guess as one might expect at ~ half the current).
*However* ... the audio is still broken (and changing DP input didn't affect it, not hugely-surprisingly). I took a little snippet of video of video playback (for audio) - you can see it seems to have a bit of a weird effect on the playback speed, as well as being largely silent except for occasional blips.

 

[PaulD-UK]

something not functioning correctly...
And since it is all hidden by the heatsink you can't check if there is an obvious overheat situation with any of the audio circuit around the PAM8006A chip.
Is there definitely a playback issue with video played back without sound?

 

[baggiero]

something not functioning correctly...
And since it is all hidden by the heatsink you can't check if there is an obvious overheat situation with any of the audio circuit around the PAM8006A chip.
Is there definitely a playback issue with video played back without sound?

Not sure quite what you mean by the last question - the play-head seems to jump around a bit weirdly when audio out is set to the DP-connection (or HDMI, I just tested that too - exact same tiny blips of audio track). That video plays fine, with plenty of audio when MacBook audio is set to MacBook Internal speakers.

 

[PaulD-UK]

If the audio glitching affects the video then that sounds like the digital clock signal within the RTD2718Q main chip is malfunctioning when audio is being passed through, so not the amplifier chip circuit?
Beyond my expertise to diagnose...