I've bought the JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1, will keep you guys posted once I receive it, pairing with a LM270QQ1 (SD)(E1)
The glitching only seems to interact with QuickTime Player - there are no other screen effects, so I dunno.. Haijing Cool store have asked (on Aliexpress messages) that I send them a video of the problem, so we'll see...If the audio glitching affects the video then that sounds like the digital clock signal within the RTD2718Q main chip is malfunctioning when audio is being passed through, so not the amplifier chip circuit?
Beyond my expertise to diagnose...
I love the thorough effort to retain all functionality except the CPU. I don't know anything about 3D printing, but my library offers a printer for patron use. Could you share the shape file for your rear door replacement? It looks very tidy, as opposed to my wires all dangling out the back of the open cavity. Thx. -DeanI thought I'd share my setup. Some key features of my 2015 iMac 5K conversion:
It took a few weeks to finish the project. I've spent a lot of time on designing 3D printed parts and by the end of it I was really bored and cut a few corners here and there. The parts are not perfect and I'm not releasing anything just yet. Ideally I'd reprint rear piece because it looks really bad but I don't really care at this point. I'll make another display conversion for my brother soon and I'll probably optimize the parts.
- Connected stock speakers to the internal amplifier on R1811.
- Wired stock fan through to a PWM controller with a thermistor attached to the PSU which is the hottest component in the case. This is a blower style fan that sucks fresh air and blows it through 3D printed duct. This makes the display not silent but it doesn't really bother me because it's still very quiet. The fan ramps up when a MacBook is charged through USB-C.
- RAM door cover replaced by a 3D printed piece which exposes 2x HDMI and 1x USB-C. I used extension cables to route I/O to the rear. It also houses buttons and IR receiver.
- R1811 fan replaced by a Noctua 40x10. I highly recommend it because the stock fan is quite loud. I had to use low noise adapter to eliminate high pitch noise.
- Generic USB webcam installed. I also rewired internal microphone to the location used by stock microphones. The microphone picks up fan noise but most voice apps have noise suppression feature which eliminates the problem completely.
- Most of the things are mounted using 3D printed parts.
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I have received the JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 and have been using it for 5 days now with a 2019 27" 5k iMac (LM270QQ1 SD E1). After dialing in the color profile, the image is as good as if not better than when I was using the iMac normally. 5120x2880 60Hz 10-bit RGB using DisplayPort to DisplayPort. Also the same using HDMI to HDMI.I've bought the JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1, will keep you guys posted once I receive it, pairing with a LM270QQ1 (SD)(E1)
Does not work with 12v, I used this 24V 8A power supply@sec89 what power adapter did you use for the JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1? I got an 2017 5K iMac that I want to convert and was set on the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1, but I prefer the 10 bit support of the newer board. Do you know if it works on 12V too?
interesting find! would love to experience 165Hz!To members who have compiled lists of the various boards used for DIY monitor conversions, like @i486dx2-66 and @sebko200, yet another pair of new boards seem to have appeared...
With similarities to the Haijing T18 and T19, and with the same prefix as the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1... we now have the
JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1, and the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1, from Shenzhen JRY Xinxian Technology Co., Ltd.
There are pictures of each board under the Specifications>View More tab, and a description:
The JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 board is a UHD display driver board
Built in MPRT dimming function, maximum resolution
5120X2880/60HZ
*supports eDP screen interface signal output.
*supports multiple OSD languages to choose from.
*supports HDMI 2.1, HDCP supports version 2.3.
*supports DP1.4 signal input.
*supports headphone and speaker functions.
*supports OD acceleration function.
*supports Freesync functionality
*supports HDR function.
The JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 board is a QUHD display driver board
Built in MPRT dimming function, the most efficient
The high resolution is 5120X2880/165Hz.
*Support EDP screen interface signal output.
*Supports multiple OSD languages to choose from.
*Supports HDMI 2.1, HDCP supports version 2.3.
*Supports DP1.4 signal input.
*Supports USB mouse, keyboard, and other functions
*Supports headphone and speaker functions.
*Supports TYPE-C video input and provides external 90W power supply.
*Supports OD acceleration function.
*Supports Freesync functionality.
*Supports HDR functionality.
With typos/misleading differences in the listings and pics - The high resolution is 5120X2880/165Hz, and Both driver boards can achieve 5120X2880/165Hz. 10BIT, Supports HDMI2.1 etc, it remains to be seen what they actually can do.
The screenshot pic shows HDMI 5K RGB 10-bit using Windows, so presumably they are an advancement over the earlier boards?
No IR remote, however.
"No 5K panel is capable of more than 60Hz." that's the news you don't want to hear... thanks for the great info again mateThe R1811 v4 board, like all the boards (R9A18, T18. T19, JRY-W9*CUHD-AA1/FA1/SA1) using the RTD2718Q video chip all do 4K at 144Hz.
This the the primary reason that Realtek produced the RTD2718Q chip - to allow monitor manufacturers to produce budget 4K/144Hz monitors, like the Dell G3223Q.
With tweaking using nVidia Windows graphics drivers 4K refresh rates can be higher, ~165Hz.
No 5K panel is capable of more than 60Hz.
Connected to a Mac with an M2 Pro/Mac/Ultra or M3 Pro/Max CPU, then the maximum refresh rate is:
HDMI display video output
So the question remains as to whether the HDMI 2.1 R1811 (or T19 or JRY--FA1) can also do this 4K/240Hz rate with a Mac connected to a suitable 4K panel. Of course none of the suppliers of the kits seem to be geared up to supporting such a panel so it is a fairly meaningless question...
- Support for one display with up to 8K resolution at 60Hz or 4K resolution at 240Hz
I have a 24v 6A unit, it seems to me that 12 is not enough for itHi all,
I've been working on my conversion and I can't get it to work... I connected everything and the monitor keeps turning on and off.
I tried with original power source it came with, I bought another one recommended here with 6A I then tried with a bigger power source with 12.5A and still same issue.
I tried with and without the current booster and no change.
My Specs:
lcd: LM270QQ1-SDF1A2115
current booster: DZ-LP0818
driver: R1811 V.4
I attached the video showing the on and off switching. This is annoying, I've been debugging it for the last week with no success. Any help is welcome at this point 😣
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@sec89, did you use the original Apple PSU with this, or did it come with a new one? If a new one, did it fit in the case or did you keep it external?Also make sure you use a 12V DC power supply for the 21.5" driver board, not 24V like the 27" driver board!
Does anyone here have the dimensions of the rounded corners of the glass? It doesnt seem to be a perfect circle from my measurements
I‘m nearly done with my conversion and saw similar behavior on my R1811 board during testing when I connected it to my PC.Hi all,
I've been working on my conversion and I can't get it to work... I connected everything and the monitor keeps turning on and off.
I tried with original power source it came with, I bought another one recommended here with 6A I then tried with a bigger power source with 12.5A and still same issue.
I tried with and without the current booster and no change.
My Specs:
lcd: LM270QQ1-SDF1A2115
current booster: DZ-LP0818
driver: R1811 V.4
I attached the video showing the on and off switching. This is annoying, I've been debugging it for the last week with no success. Any help is welcome at this point 😣
View attachment 2402050
I did not use the original Apple PSU, I bought a separate 24VDC which I linked earlier for the 27, and I already had a 12VDC laying around for the 21.5. Both models I purchased were 2xHDMI 2xDisplayPort for a total of 4 ports on each board. I did not purchase the USB-C models@sec89, did you use the original Apple PSU with this, or did it come with a new one? If a new one, did it fit in the case or did you keep it external?
Also, does it charge the connected laptop via the single cable? I assume not as it would need a 24v supply.