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baggiero

macrumors member
Jun 12, 2024
31
18
If the audio glitching affects the video then that sounds like the digital clock signal within the RTD2718Q main chip is malfunctioning when audio is being passed through, so not the amplifier chip circuit?
Beyond my expertise to diagnose... :confused:
The glitching only seems to interact with QuickTime Player - there are no other screen effects, so I dunno.. Haijing Cool store have asked (on Aliexpress messages) that I send them a video of the problem, so we'll see...
 
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thewilewizzard

macrumors newbie
Nov 6, 2023
12
9
Comrades, greetings to all. Last year, I assembled my monitor on the r1811, now I plan to assemble the same second one but on a cheaper controller. Is there any generalized table with the characteristics of different controllers and links to their purchase? I want to save as much as possible by having a second 5k monitor at hand.
 

PaulD-UK

macrumors 6502a
Oct 23, 2009
873
471
Здравствуйте.
The cheapest are the 8-bit JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 and the newly released 10-bit JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1, and JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1, from Shenzhen JRY Xinxian Technology Co., Ltd.

See post #1550 for details of the last two.
 
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dbanfield

macrumors newbie
Jul 17, 2024
1
0
I thought I'd share my setup. Some key features of my 2015 iMac 5K conversion:
  • Connected stock speakers to the internal amplifier on R1811.
  • Wired stock fan through to a PWM controller with a thermistor attached to the PSU which is the hottest component in the case. This is a blower style fan that sucks fresh air and blows it through 3D printed duct. This makes the display not silent but it doesn't really bother me because it's still very quiet. The fan ramps up when a MacBook is charged through USB-C.
  • RAM door cover replaced by a 3D printed piece which exposes 2x HDMI and 1x USB-C. I used extension cables to route I/O to the rear. It also houses buttons and IR receiver.
  • R1811 fan replaced by a Noctua 40x10. I highly recommend it because the stock fan is quite loud. I had to use low noise adapter to eliminate high pitch noise.
  • Generic USB webcam installed. I also rewired internal microphone to the location used by stock microphones. The microphone picks up fan noise but most voice apps have noise suppression feature which eliminates the problem completely.
  • Most of the things are mounted using 3D printed parts.
It took a few weeks to finish the project. I've spent a lot of time on designing 3D printed parts and by the end of it I was really bored and cut a few corners here and there. The parts are not perfect and I'm not releasing anything just yet. Ideally I'd reprint rear piece because it looks really bad but I don't really care at this point. I'll make another display conversion for my brother soon and I'll probably optimize the parts.

View attachment 2170519
View attachment 2170520
View attachment 2170521

View attachment 2170522

View attachment 2170523
I love the thorough effort to retain all functionality except the CPU. I don't know anything about 3D printing, but my library offers a printer for patron use. Could you share the shape file for your rear door replacement? It looks very tidy, as opposed to my wires all dangling out the back of the open cavity. Thx. -Dean
 

sec89

macrumors newbie
Jul 15, 2024
5
7
I've bought the JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1, will keep you guys posted once I receive it, pairing with a LM270QQ1 (SD)(E1)
I have received the JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 and have been using it for 5 days now with a 2019 27" 5k iMac (LM270QQ1 SD E1). After dialing in the color profile, the image is as good as if not better than when I was using the iMac normally. 5120x2880 60Hz 10-bit RGB using DisplayPort to DisplayPort. Also the same using HDMI to HDMI.

Also works with my M1 16" Macbook Pro! Make sure you get an 8K USB-C to DisplayPort cable, I was using a 4K USB-C to HDMI and having issues with achieving the native resolution. The seller on Taobao was helpful and let me know to change the cable. Some cable manufacturers cheap out on the USB-C/Thunderbolt side of the cable.

Screenshot 2024-07-29 144448.png
IMG_0871.jpg
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IMG_0959.jpg
IMG_0960.jpg
IMG_0961.jpg
 

sec89

macrumors newbie
Jul 15, 2024
5
7
I also purchased a CY.R9513 V5 from here to convert my 21.5" 2017 iMac display to a second monitor. This came with a remote which was super useful, the JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 does not have a remote. I can only manage 8-bit color but honestly I can't tell the difference. Also make sure you use a 12V DC power supply for the 21.5" driver board, not 24V like the 27" driver board!

Weird note: the 21.5" display gets noticeably brighter than the 27", but it's a non-issue for me.
imac.png
 

thewilewizzard

macrumors newbie
Nov 6, 2023
12
9
Comrades, greetings to all. I recently ordered the cheapest fee from the link,
. I bought a broken matrix for testing, and as I expected, it turned out to be serviceable while I tested it in 4k resolution (on a work computer). I have already removed the broken glass to replace it with glass from imac 2010. Wish you good luck in the fight against oca glue. (Photos of the process, if anyone is interested) I used a blow dryer and a fly to remove displays of 0.10 millimeters and an hour of working time

IMG20240725093810.jpg
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img20240725114925-jpg.2400814
 

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nullpointerninja

macrumors newbie
Mar 23, 2023
18
8
@sec89 what power adapter did you use for the JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1? I got an 2017 5K iMac that I want to convert and was set on the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1, but I prefer the 10 bit support of the newer board. Do you know if it works on 12V too?
 

Semmo

macrumors member
Jun 23, 2020
33
18
To members who have compiled lists of the various boards used for DIY monitor conversions, like @i486dx2-66 and @sebko200, yet another pair of new boards seem to have appeared... o_O

With similarities to the Haijing T18 and T19, and with the same prefix as the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1... we now have the
JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1, and the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1, from Shenzhen JRY Xinxian Technology Co., Ltd. :D


There are pictures of each board under the Specifications>View More tab, and a description:

The JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 board is a UHD display driver board
Built in MPRT dimming function, maximum resolution
5120X2880/60HZ
*supports eDP screen interface signal output.
*supports multiple OSD languages to choose from.
*supports HDMI 2.1, HDCP supports version 2.3.
*supports DP1.4 signal input.
*supports headphone and speaker functions.
*supports OD acceleration function.
*supports Freesync functionality
*supports HDR function.



The JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 board is a QUHD display driver board
Built in MPRT dimming function, the most efficient
The high resolution is 5120X2880/165Hz.
*Support EDP screen interface signal output.
*Supports multiple OSD languages to choose from.
*Supports HDMI 2.1, HDCP supports version 2.3.
*Supports DP1.4 signal input.
*Supports USB mouse, keyboard, and other functions
*Supports headphone and speaker functions.
*Supports TYPE-C video input and provides external 90W power supply.
*Supports OD acceleration function.
*Supports Freesync functionality.
*Supports HDR functionality.



With typos/misleading differences in the listings and pics - The high resolution is 5120X2880/165Hz, and Both driver boards can achieve 5120X2880/165Hz. 10BIT, Supports HDMI2.1 etc, it remains to be seen what they actually can do.
The screenshot pic shows HDMI 5K RGB 10-bit using Windows, so presumably they are an advancement over the earlier boards?

No IR remote, however.
interesting find! would love to experience 165Hz!
how does this compare to r1811 v4 upgrades and downgrades if any?
 

PaulD-UK

macrumors 6502a
Oct 23, 2009
873
471
The R1811 v4 board, like all the boards (R9A18, T18. T19, JRY-W9*CUHD-AA1/FA1/SA1) using the RTD2718Q video chip all do 4K at 144Hz.
This the the primary reason that Realtek produced the RTD2718Q chip - to allow monitor manufacturers to produce budget 4K/144Hz monitors, like the Dell G3223Q.

With tweaking using nVidia Windows graphics drivers 4K refresh rates can be higher, ~165Hz.

No 5K panel is capable of more than 60Hz.

Connected to a Mac with an M2 Pro/Mac/Ultra or M3 Pro/Max CPU, then the maximum refresh rate is:

HDMI display video output
  • Support for one display with up to 8K resolution at 60Hz or 4K resolution at 240Hz
So the question remains as to whether the HDMI 2.1 R1811 (or T19 or JRY--FA1) can also do this 4K/240Hz rate with a Mac connected to a suitable 4K panel. Of course none of the suppliers of the kits seem to be geared up to supporting such a panel so it is a fairly meaningless question...
 
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PaulD-UK

macrumors 6502a
Oct 23, 2009
873
471
I've just noticed a further new board, the R1815 v2 has become available.
This is a development of the R1811 v4, capable of driving the LN270QQ1 and LM270QQ2 panels, but it’s primary purpose is to drive the panel from the 2017 Dell UltraSharp 32" 8K Monitor UP3218K, with the LM315QU1 8K panel.
This seems to require dual DP 1.4 inputs to get 8K, rather like the R9A18 did to get 5K 10-bit.
Price?
$748 haha.


Since the 8K panel is not really available yet, it seems a speculative development, but it does mean the R18** boards are getting development, which has to be a good thing.
 
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Semmo

macrumors member
Jun 23, 2020
33
18
The R1811 v4 board, like all the boards (R9A18, T18. T19, JRY-W9*CUHD-AA1/FA1/SA1) using the RTD2718Q video chip all do 4K at 144Hz.
This the the primary reason that Realtek produced the RTD2718Q chip - to allow monitor manufacturers to produce budget 4K/144Hz monitors, like the Dell G3223Q.

With tweaking using nVidia Windows graphics drivers 4K refresh rates can be higher, ~165Hz.

No 5K panel is capable of more than 60Hz.

Connected to a Mac with an M2 Pro/Mac/Ultra or M3 Pro/Max CPU, then the maximum refresh rate is:

HDMI display video output
  • Support for one display with up to 8K resolution at 60Hz or 4K resolution at 240Hz
So the question remains as to whether the HDMI 2.1 R1811 (or T19 or JRY--FA1) can also do this 4K/240Hz rate with a Mac connected to a suitable 4K panel. Of course none of the suppliers of the kits seem to be geared up to supporting such a panel so it is a fairly meaningless question...
"No 5K panel is capable of more than 60Hz." that's the news you don't want to hear... thanks for the great info again mate
 
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Pondering

macrumors newbie
Dec 16, 2022
13
8
Does anyone here have the dimensions of the rounded corners of the glass? It doesnt seem to be a perfect circle from my measurements

Edit: Turns out to be something called a Squircle, it's formula is y4+x4=R4
. I'll try to get some time on a CNC and make some guestimates on the radius. Thanks for the help guys, was driving me crazy!
 
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PaulD-UK

macrumors 6502a
Oct 23, 2009
873
471
It looks like the arc of a a circle to me, but with the slightest Bézier curve increase in the radius as it becomes straight.
The radius of the circle seems to be exactly 15mm (0.59 inches).
This is an estimate as I only have a circular £2 British coin - 28.45mm diameter, a fraction too small, and a Dremel cutting disc - 32mm diameter, a fraction too big, to hand.
The bezier effect is clearer when looking at the case:

iMacCaseCorner.jpg
 
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hiwdu8

macrumors newbie
Jul 7, 2024
3
0
Hi all,

I've been working on my conversion and I can't get it to work... I connected everything and the monitor keeps turning on and off.
I tried with original power source it came with, I bought another one recommended here with 6A I then tried with a bigger power source with 12.5A and still same issue.
I tried with and without the current booster and no change.

My Specs:
lcd: LM270QQ1-SDF1A2115
current booster: DZ-LP0818
driver: R1811 V.4

I attached the video showing the on and off switching. This is annoying, I've been debugging it for the last week with no success. Any help is welcome at this point 😣

 

thewilewizzard

macrumors newbie
Nov 6, 2023
12
9
Hi all,

I've been working on my conversion and I can't get it to work... I connected everything and the monitor keeps turning on and off.
I tried with original power source it came with, I bought another one recommended here with 6A I then tried with a bigger power source with 12.5A and still same issue.
I tried with and without the current booster and no change.

My Specs:
lcd: LM270QQ1-SDF1A2115
current booster: DZ-LP0818
driver: R1811 V.4

I attached the video showing the on and off switching. This is annoying, I've been debugging it for the last week with no success. Any help is welcome at this point 😣

View attachment 2402050
I have a 24v 6A unit, it seems to me that 12 is not enough for it
 

kevinherring

macrumors newbie
Oct 30, 2006
24
8
Also make sure you use a 12V DC power supply for the 21.5" driver board, not 24V like the 27" driver board!
@sec89, did you use the original Apple PSU with this, or did it come with a new one? If a new one, did it fit in the case or did you keep it external?

Also, does it charge the connected laptop via the single cable? I assume not as it would need a 24v supply.
 

PaulD-UK

macrumors 6502a
Oct 23, 2009
873
471
@hiwdu8 Your video shows that the R1811 constantly restarting and reinitialising.
That is not typical of PSU low voltage cutouts, which just show momentary blackouts, but no reinitialising splash screen.

My guess is that this may be a problem with the Power On circuitry, or the Power On button on the Control Strip - pin 4 on the ribbon cable, counting top down on the connector on the R1811.
Have you made any modification to this circuitry, or is the Control Strip getting shorted to ground in any way?

If you have the ability you could try powering up the board with the Control Strip ribbon cable disconnected, and powering on the R1811 by momentarily connecting pin 3 and pin 4 counting top down on the connector.

If the problem persists, then the problem must be on the board.

EDIT:
Quote: "I tested the R1811 on my friend's LCD panel (LM270QQ1 SDA2) and it works great so I know that the driver should be fine."
I missed that you posted this earlier.
How did you do this test? Did you attach your friend's screen to your build in your iMac case, or was the test done with the bare board connected to the A2 screen?
Did you attach your 60 pin eDP video screen cable to your friends screen?

If everything that worked with your friend's A2 panel is exactly the same as your build, then maybe? the 60 pin video connector on your F1 panel is not correctly making contact - dust etc.
 
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Edge

macrumors regular
Jul 28, 2005
143
34
Does anyone here have the dimensions of the rounded corners of the glass? It doesnt seem to be a perfect circle from my measurements

Not a direct answer to your question, but it's an Apple thing, and it has a name — the squircle.

If you know what super-ellipses and differential geometry are, you'll be sweet.



 

borisf

macrumors newbie
Aug 2, 2024
1
0
Hi all,

I've been working on my conversion and I can't get it to work... I connected everything and the monitor keeps turning on and off.
I tried with original power source it came with, I bought another one recommended here with 6A I then tried with a bigger power source with 12.5A and still same issue.
I tried with and without the current booster and no change.

My Specs:
lcd: LM270QQ1-SDF1A2115
current booster: DZ-LP0818
driver: R1811 V.4

I attached the video showing the on and off switching. This is annoying, I've been debugging it for the last week with no success. Any help is welcome at this point 😣

View attachment 2402050
I‘m nearly done with my conversion and saw similar behavior on my R1811 board during testing when I connected it to my PC.

I was very worried about the power supply etc, but it turns out it was due to trying to run at 5K with a 4K-rated DP cable.

Have you tried swapping cables or connecting to a different computer?
 

sec89

macrumors newbie
Jul 15, 2024
5
7
@sec89, did you use the original Apple PSU with this, or did it come with a new one? If a new one, did it fit in the case or did you keep it external?

Also, does it charge the connected laptop via the single cable? I assume not as it would need a 24v supply.
I did not use the original Apple PSU, I bought a separate 24VDC which I linked earlier for the 27, and I already had a 12VDC laying around for the 21.5. Both models I purchased were 2xHDMI 2xDisplayPort for a total of 4 ports on each board. I did not purchase the USB-C models
 
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