DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

[T-Bone90]

Hi guys,

I'm currently planning this project and have a 2017 iMac at home. I still don't really know which board to use and whether I need a controller board. You quickly lose track
I would like to use 5k, P3 and 10bit. I would like to calibrate the screen with the SpyderX.

Which board is currently the best and should I use? The R1811 has an active fan that is supposed to be audible. Would it be better to invest in another one? What about the new JRY? I definitely don't want to have to plug in two cables. I'd also like USB-C (I use the iMac with my MacBook, but it's already charged by a docking station anyway). Otherwise I use Displayport.
What would you use? And do I need a current board?

I would also like to have a sound. But here too I haven't quite figured out whether the sound is good now (like it used to be on the iMac) or whether it still sounds tinny. Then you could almost do without it. What do you think?

 

[PaulD-UK]

"I would like to use 5k, P3 and 10bit. I would like to calibrate the screen with the SpyderX."

I don't think there is much information about day-to-day or long-term colour consistency with these conversion boards.

The hardware seems very good - the basic design philosophy for all the various boards was that they started out being manufactured for mid-budget 4K 120Hz gaming monitors.

But it was soon realised that having the bandwidth for 4K/120 meant that the hardware could support 5K 60Hz, and the various designs that we have today were produced with the necessary firmware to allow 5K iMac screens to be used.

My impression is that the cheaper boards have more compromises, especially in the firmware.
At the cheap end, all three of the JRY boards seem to have IR remote control hardware on the board, but don't have firmware to allow this to be used.

When the JRY--AA1 (8-bit) board first became available (in mid-2023) there were many on sale on AliExpess that were sold 'previously used', so presumable had been fitted in a Chinese 4K monitor?

The JRY--FA1/SA1 (10-bit) boards are very new and presumable better suited to 5K iMac conversion use.
The FA1 is HDMI 2.1, allowing 5K - maybe only at 8-bits with a Mac?

The T18/T19 10-bit boards arrived a bit earlier (in mid 2022) and offered a mid-price 10-bit alternative.
As far as I know there has been no development of either of these since the appeared.
Their biggest advantage is that the T19 first introduced HDMI 2.1 5K (at 8-bits), they can both work at 12v.

The original conversion board (labelled Paramount) first appeared in about 2018 and was soon superseded by the R9A18 board, which did 10-bit with two DP1.2 cables, which was the only way to get 5K pre-2019/20.

The R9A18 V1 later became V1.1, which allowed single cable DP1.4 8-bit 5K.

When Display Stream Compression appeared (in about 2020) then single cable 5K/60 at 10-bits became possible.
To do this the makers of the R9A18 produced the R1811 V3, rapidly followed by a revision to R1811 V4.

This allows 5K/60 at 10-bits over USB-C as well as DP 1.4. HDMI remains 2.0, capable of only 4K with a Mac.
The R1811 V4 was upgraded with newer firmware to HDMI 2.1 in 2023.

Both the R9A18 and the R1811 have IR remote control of the OSD settings, as well as a button Control Strip.

To summarise:
The JRY boards are evolving, but are deliberately aimed at the low-price market.
The Haijing T18/T19 don't appear to have been developed since being introduced.

The R1811 board is being developed, with the latest HDMI 2.1 board having new firmware from Realtek, who designed the main video driver chip (that all these boards use).
The other boards have anonymous firmware developed by their manufacturer/seller.

In fact there is a brand new variant, the R1815, price $780..., which works at 5K with LG 5K screen panels, but is really intended to be used with Dell's 8K panel, first sold in 2019.

"Which board is currently the best and should I use?"

In my opinion, for the reasons above, I think the R1811 is the best choice.
I find the remote control of the OSD very useful, and if you want to use screen calibration you will need to ensure that the board's internal settings don't change, or the calibration would be upset.

If you buy from the main supplier (the one who has introduced the R1815) then their service and support.
It may be cheaper on AliExpress...

As to fan noise:
My own R1811 conversion which has an original iMac fan was well as the heatsink fan, is completely silent.
Both fans have voltage controllers to reduce fan speed according to heat produced, but they seem to operate at minimum speed all the time. Very little heat is produced as I don't use USB-C PD power.

Fan noise comes down to two things:
Having the RAM port lid off, and having the iMac's vent slots open.
With the board mounted so the noise can escape.

The heatsink fan can be run with a voltage reduction resistor (such as the Noctua RC12) to reduce noise but not significantly reduce cooling - if you are not using the R1811's USB-C PD power to charge a laptop.

I can't speak to the audio quality of JRY or Haijing T** boards, but the R1811's audio amplifier is excellent, and if care is taken with the audio speaker wiring, then the result is excellent.
I had plans to use an external solution for my audio, but once I tried with the R1811's amp, I gave all that up.

I realise my own solution (iMac Pro speakers etc) involves much more effort, but if done simply, with the original speakers and good crossovers, the results would be very acceptable...

The DZ-LP0818 backlight constant current board is optional.
The screen brightness is perfectly bright enough without it, but would be even brighter - by about 100 nits - if you fit one.

 

[T-Bone90]

Wow thanks a lot for this detailed answer.

I would still like to summarize the whole thing again and have a few sub-questions.

Let's start with the board. Since I would like P3 and 10 bit, I can only choose between the following boards. Or rather, only the following boards make sense, right?

- JRY--FA1/SA1 (brand new, both can 10 bit for example via DP?...I think I will use DP or USB-C (my docking station has DP and Thunderbolt 4)
- T18/T19 (no further development since release)
- R1811 v4 (10 bit via USB-C or DP) (R9A18 no longer available?)

Should you avoid USB-C on the board if you don't use it? I have a Macbopok and could use it to charge it, but currently everything is done via my docking station. And probably in the future too. Can you save money there?

I still don't quite understand the remote control thing. I thought all the boards presented came with a small soldered button remote control? That would obviously be important, as I have to adjust things for calibration (as you already wrote).

//Edit:
Ah OK I understand, so you can change the settings with a TV remote control. That sounds great, but I don't really need it. I only need to change the settings every few months, so I can do that with the small soldered control at the back of the iMac. But comes all boards with the small soldered control? On few pics I don't see this little control.
//

I need to do some more research for the fan. Your project looks great, but I don't think I want to put that much work into it. Of course, if the fan is extremely loud, then I'd rather do without it and buy something without a fan. Or replace the fan.

I would like audio. But the speakers should sound good enough. I saw a YouTube video where someone had installed crossovers and the sound was extremely tinny. Then I would give it to myself as a gift. Maybe at some point I'll get external speakers, but if I get the chance, I can add sound from the iMac. And the original iMac sound was good enough. However, I'm completely new to this area and don't really know what different things you need to buy.

And another question about the current board. I read in a manual that you need a current board for the iMac from 2017 and newer (from then on there was P3 Support), because otherwise there is no P3 available. What is correct now? I don't need maximum brightness (the screen is calibrated at 120-150 cd/m2 anyway), but I would like P3. I'm a photographer and would like to use the maximum colors.

And I've seen that some people have used the original iMac power supply. Does that make sense? Does that work with every board? Or just buy an external power supply? If necessary, install it with the case. Will it get too hot?

And excuse my bad English.

 

[PaulD-UK]

Fine

The R9A18 is still available, as it is the best board to use to drive a DIY monitor with older Macs from 2016-2018, as these Macs can't do single cable 5K.

Having USB-C is no problem. You just don't use it.
Having USB-C on the T18, and maybe the JRY--SA1, means they still only have HDMI 2.0 (so do 4K over HDMI).

Your docking station is best used with a USB-C to DP 1.4 8K cable in its TB port, as its DP 1.4 port may not be 8K capable?

The boards come with a ribbon cable and attached Control Strip, but since that gets built in to the iMac case it isn't a 'Remote' control.
The R1811 has an IR (infra red) remote control, like a TV.

If you have calibrated your monitor, you need to check if the settings of the board are as you want.
Since this isn't an Apple monitor, many of the Mac OS monitor control adjustments from the keyboard don't work.
You can't vary the volume of speakers with F10-F12 if you use audio from the board, and you can't adjust the brightness with F1 and F2.

To get round this you have to install GitHub software, Monitor Control or Better Display.
Since these are third party software they may not always be completely stable, so to make sure your monitor calibration hasn't been affected you have to check the On Screen Display settings.
So even if you don't want to change things you still have to be able to view the OSD before doing anything critical.

Youtube creators mostly don't do a proper build - they just glue-gun everything together.
If their audio was 'tinny' then something wasn't right.
The audio from a R1811 can be above average for a monitor, but having the right crossovers, installed properly, is important.
The crossover kit sold on AliExpress to use with these boards have jumper settings that can screw up the sound produced.

The boards all seem to drive the 5K panel at at least 350-400 nits, which is as good as most cheaper 4K monitors these days.
If you fit the DZ-LP0818 c/c board you will get something more like the 500 nits the panels can give.

Part of the reason the DZ-LP0818 board was originally designed was because the Chinese were 'refurbishing' 5K iMac screens with broken glass.
Some of these remanufactured screens were too dim - because the internal plastic diffusers had been damaged during the dismantlement...
But they could be sold if the C/C board was used to make them bright enough.

For ordinary use the c/c board is not needed.
I have tried both a 2017 and a 2019/20 screen panel and both are fine.

The original iMac 12v power supply only works with the JRY--AA1 and T18/19 boards, but with mixed results.
The PSU is very noisy, and the boards get hotter in use using 12v rather than 19-24v.

A proper 24v PSU installed in the iMac case is best, but it could be installed externally if required.
It will require much less cooling than when using 12v.

Good luck, there is a lot to think about!

 

[T-Bone90]

The R9A18 is still available, as it is the best board to use to drive a DIY monitor with older Macs from 2016-2018, as these Macs can't do single cable 5K.

Ah OK. But I think not for me because I want to have 10-bit with one cable. v1 need two DP Cables and v1.1 can only 8-bit, right? So R9A18 falls out, right? Or am I missing something (sorry, it's all pretty confusing)?

Having USB-C is no problem. You just don't use it.
Having USB-C on the T18, and maybe the JRY--SA1, means they still only have HDMI 2.0 (so do 4K over HDMI).

OK so if I Don't care about HDMI than it's better to have USB-C? As long as DP provides the full resolution and color profile, you don't necessarily need HDMI I think. Again, most devices have HDMI rather than DP.

Your docking station is best used with a USB-C to DP 1.4 8K cable in its TB port, as its DP 1.4 port may not be 8K capable?

I have the Ugreen Revodok Max 213 Thunderbolt Dock and it has a DP 1.4 with 8k@30Hz Support. But sometimes there is also talk of 4k@60Hz. I don't know. Do you understand this?

UGREEN Revodok Max 213 Thunderbolt 13-in-1 Docking Station

The UGREEN Revodok Max 213 Thunderbolt 13-in-1 Docking Station offers massive expansion with versatile ports, powerful Thunderbolt 4, and high-speed charging. It is widely compatible.

www.ugreen.com

The boards come with a ribbon cable and attached Control Strip, but since that gets built in to the iMac case it isn't a 'Remote' control. The R1811 has an IR (infra red) remote control, like a TV.

Yes, but some have the attached control strip mounted on the outside of the back. I was thinking about that. I would also like to solder on the original power button. But of course, a remote control makes everything easier.

If you have calibrated your monitor, you need to check if the settings of the board are as you want.
Since this isn't an Apple monitor, many of the Mac OS monitor control adjustments from the keyboard don't work.
You can't vary the volume of speakers with F10-F12 if you use audio from the board, and you can't adjust the brightness with F1 and F2.

To get round this you have to install GitHub software, Monitor Control or Better Display.
Since these are third party software they may not always be completely stable, so to make sure your monitor calibration hasn't been affected you have to check the On Screen Display settings.
So even if you don't want to change things you still have to be able to view the OSD before doing anything critical.

Thanks. Do you know if the software works with every board? I would like to have the original Apple feeling using software and be able to adjust brightness and sound using the buttons. Although I don't actually have to touch the brightness with the calibrated monitor. Hmm

Youtube creators mostly don't do a proper build - they just glue-gun everything together.

Hehe that's right. But how do most people attach the boards to the case? I thought it was glued on with heat-resistant tape and a screw. I read that you can also order 3D prints as holders. There are also supposed to be holders for the attached Control Strip, which make everything a bit more stylish.

If their audio was 'tinny' then something wasn't right.
The audio from a R1811 can be above average for a monitor, but having the right crossovers, installed properly, is important.
The crossover kit sold on AliExpress to use with these boards have jumper settings that can screw up the sound produced.

Ah OK. Do you need a separate crossover for each board? And which crossovers are recommended? There are a few different ones... and do the iMac 2017 speakers sound relatively good?

The boards all seem to drive the 5K panel at at least 350-400 nits, which is as good as most cheaper 4K monitors these days.
If you fit the DZ-LP0818 c/c board you will get something more like the 500 nits the panels can give.

Part of the reason the DZ-LP0818 board was originally designed was because the Chinese were 'refurbishing' 5K iMac screens with broken glass.
Some of these remanufactured screens were too dim - because the internal plastic diffusers had been damaged during the dismantlement...
But they could be sold if the C/C board was used to make them bright enough.

For ordinary use the c/c board is not needed.
I have tried both a 2017 and a 2019/20 screen panel and both are fine.

Thanks for the explanation. Then no C/C board.

The original iMac 12v power supply only works with the JRY--AA1 and T18/19 boards, but with mixed results.
The PSU is very noisy, and the boards get hotter in use using 12v rather than 19-24v.

A proper 24v PSU installed in the iMac case is best, but it could be installed externally if required.
It will require much less cooling than when using 12v.

Ah perfekt. So I will test a 24v PSU. Any recommendations? Or does it depend on the board?
I would actually like to build it into the case but I'm a bit worried that it will get too hot inside. Even if you don't use an R1811 board with a fan.
I'm also thinking about soldering the power supply to the original power plug (seen in the YouTube video) so that you can use the original iMac power cable. No idea if that's a good idea. Or I can do without it and just put all the cables through the hole where the power cable used to be. I'm not really a fan of putting all the cables through the RAM opening. And I also want to somehow close the original connections on the back. But that's all more about appearance. It has to work to my satisfaction and show the image.

 

[Kaeslin]

I'm currently planning this project and have a 2017 iMac at home. I still don't really know which board to use and whether I need a controller board. You quickly lose track. I would like to use 5k, P3 and 10bit. I would like to calibrate the screen with the SpyderX.

Which board is currently the best and should I use? The R1811 has an active fan that is supposed to be audible. Would it be better to invest in another one? What about the new JRY? I definitely don't want to have to plug in two cables. I'd also like USB-C (I use the iMac with my MacBook, but it's already charged by a docking station anyway).

Except for color calibration, your requirements look similar to those I had earlier this year. As explained in contribution #1,409 I have combined an R9A18 board with a video splitter to achieve Thunderbolt/USB-C input over a single cable. Zero noise operation was also important to me as the monitor is running all day long in an otherwise quiet environment.

Further note that not all converter boards come with an adequate heat sink; I did not consider any product unless it featured an aluminium profile of decent size. In addition, I have deliberately refrained from charging the laptop via the monitor (USB-C power delivery) to allow for reuse of the original 12 V power supply unit and to minimize heat buildup within the iMac enclosure.

The monitor operates every day with a 15" MacBook Air M3 and I am fully satisfied with the result. The only thing I might possibly do different if I had to redo the project over again is to keep the loudspeakers. There was no need in my case and I felt outperforming the MacBook in terms of sound quality would prove difficult. But if someone has achieved this feat, he or she is invited to comment on how he or she did.

 

[T-Bone90]

@Kaeslin
Thanks a lot for your answer. Your project looks great.
The R9A18 is nice and have a good price.
Unfortunately it doesn't support 10-bit, which I would like to have on the 2017 iMac.
So the only boards left for me are the following:
JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1
JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1
T18
T19
R1811

I don't really know if I can get used to the fan on the R1811. I would actually like it to be fanless or silent.

When you say that some boards have a heatsink that is too small, that makes me suspicious again. Which boards would those be? Can I just run the R1811 without a fan, for example? Or should I go for a JRY or T1x?

And with the other boards I would only need one cable and not two. Even on the 2017 iMac.
So I think I could save myself the video splitter.

I will also refrain from charging the laptop via a cable. My docking station does that. Nevertheless, the 10-bit boards require a 24V power supply.

 

[PaulD-UK]

The R9A18 V1.1 does do 5K60 10-bit when used through a Thunderbolt 3>2 DP 1.2 splitter, like @Kaeslin has done.
The added cost of a Mac-compatible Thunderbolt 3>Dual DP 1.2 splitter has to be factored in.

It's the JRY boards that seem to have a lower performance heat sink.
The R1811 can be used without its heatsink fan, but will get very hot, and need a case fan in the iMac to keep it from overheating.

Running the R1811 heatsink fan through a 150 ohm resistor will keep the board cool enough and solve any noise problems unless it is fitted directly next to the iMac case vents at the back.

I find it easiest/best to stick with the DP 1.4 input port, using a USB-C to DP 1.4 8K/60 cable.
That cable will connect to your UGREEN dock just fine.

The Dock only does 4K/60Hz which very likely isn't enough for 5k/60.
5K/60 equates to 4K/120.

All the boards sold now work with Monitor Control/Better Display AFAIK. Some earlier revisions didn't.

I think it's better to have airflow to both sides of the boards for better cooling, so some sort of stand-off arrangement is better than velcro or the glue gun...

Please post details here if you find anyone selling 3D-printed mounts or anything else useful.

iMac 2017 speakers are fine.
You need two crossover units, one for each iMac speaker unit.
I've only seen one crossover board with sockets that match the iMac speakers plugs, sold in pairs on AliExpress.
It’s not perfect, but it is simple to install - velcro is fine for this - and will work well enough.

I've not seen the 'perfect' crossover for these iMac speakers sold anywhere.
I built my own, and if you need any more detailed info about what is needed, post here.

If you are from Europe, the power supply units sold here are more stringently controlled than elsewhere in the world - which is good.
It is best to fit a PSU inside the iMac and power it soldered to the original socket because the socket unit in the iMac's case provides extra EMR (electro-magnetic radiation) protection.

This is a good thing as Apple Silicon Macs have Bluetooth that is easily disrupted by local EMR sources, so it's best to eliminate it.

 

[T-Bone90]

I find it easiest/best to stick with the DP 1.4 input port, using a USB-C to DP 1.4 8K/60 cable.
That cable will connect to your UGREEN dock just fine.

The Dock only does 4K/60Hz which very likely isn't enough for 5k/60.
5K/60 equates to 4K/120.

Oh no :-(
I guess I can only try it. In the test report or in the comments on the dock, someone wrote that it works wonderfully with his Studio Display 5k. Even 6K should work according to the instructions.

If necessary, I would have to make sure that the iMac charges my MacBook and that the dock is somehow connected to the iMac. I have no idea whether that would work.

iMac 2017 speakers are fine.
You need two crossover units, one for each iMac speaker unit.
I've only seen one crossover board with sockets that match the iMac speakers plugs, sold in pairs on AliExpress.
It not perfect, but it is simple to install - velcro is fine for this - and will work well enough.

I've not seen the 'perfect' crossover for these iMac speakers sold anywhere.
I built my own, and if you need any more detailed info about what is needed, post here.

That sounds great. It is very complicated to build your version? Otherwise I'll try the two crossovers. If the sound is bad, I can always add something. Your version probably needs the two crossovers, right?

If you are from Europe, the power supply units sold here are more stringently controlled than elsewhere in the world - which is good.
It is best to fit a PSU inside the iMac and power it soldered to the original socket because the socket unit in the iMac's case provides extra EMR (electro-magnetic radiation) protection.

This is a good thing as Apple Silicon Macs have Bluetooth that is easily disrupted by local EMR sources, so it' best to eliminate it.

Ahh, thanks for the great tip, Yes I'am from EU. Then the power supply will built into the case and soldered on. It looks a bit nicer than on the outside. So I will buy an 24V PSU.

I'm still thinking about how to route the other cables to the outside. I don't want to go through the RAM slot. I'll either make a hole somewhere with the Dremel or use the Ethernet port.

///Edit:
It's really difficult to choose a board. On the one hand, I would take the R1811 because it is being developed and is probably the best. But I think the fan might bother me and without a fan I don't know if the heatsink is big enough.

On the other hand, the T18/T19 boards are a bit older and not really in development anymore.

Or you can take the budget version JRY-W9RQUHD-F/SA1 and do without IR. But will the heatsink be sufficient and will the thing not get too hot?

Sorry for my maybe strange ideas/questions

 

[PaulD-UK]

“…someone wrote that it works wonderfully with his Studio Display 5k.”

That’s because it connects to the Thunderbolt port, not DP.
A DIY monitor will work this way too.

Crossovers are easy to make, it’s the design that is complicated.

Parts are available. Except the sockets for the iMac speaker plugs. I used solder…

Put simply I didn’t like the technical support and lack of tech info from vendors of the JRY and T** boards.
Only the R1811 has a datasheet.

 

[T-Bone90]

“…someone wrote that it works wonderfully with his Studio Display 5k.”

That’s because it connects to the Thunderbolt port, not DP.
A DIY monitor will work this way too.

OK, so would it be better to use Thunderbolt/USb-C and not DP? It would be great if 5k worked with the dock. Everything looks so blurry at 4k. If necessary, I'll have to exchange the dock for another one, because I already need a dock at home

Crossovers are easy to make, it’s the design that is complicated.

Parts are available. Except the sockets for the iMac speaker plugs. I used solder…

OK, that sounds a bit more difficult to start with. ;-) I think I will try the ready-made sets first. If the sound comes out halfway like the original iMac, that's enough for me. I don't expect the sound to be as good as my Macbook Pro M1Pro 2021 anyway.

 

[erihp]

Please post details here if you find anyone selling 3D-printed mounts or anything else useful.

Long time watcher, newer owner of quite a few imacs ready for surgery.

The amount of help and information offered in this thread is amazing and extremely valuable!

As a thanks to everyone who has contributed I would be willing to print brackets and plates needed to do these conversions for anyone who has contributed on this thread. Seems to be a lot of folks in the UK so all I'd ask would be to pay for the postage.

I have found and printed the following related models and they turned out nicely:

iMac to 5K Display components by Christian | Download free STL model | Printables.com

These parts help to mount the display driver board and keypad inside an iMac 27" | Download free 3D printable STL models

www.printables.com

Apple iMac 2009 2010 2011 27" PSU shield/cover by mindogas

After getting zapped one time by exposed high voltage of open imac PSU I made easy to install shield for it. Now during active test or fault finding I could safely leave it on screen less. Possibly you could leave it on for ever if printed in ABS but I\m not sure about airflow.See my other...

www.thingiverse.com

2009 27" iMac to 27" Monitor Conversion Kit by Omphteliba | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Transform your 2009 27" iMac into a stylish, modern 27" standalone monitor using this comprehensive kit. | Download free 3D printable STL models

www.printables.com

iMac 27" (2014) LCD Driver Board Mount (Conversion) by KevDoy | Download free STL model | Printables.com

LCD Driver Board for iMac to 5K screen conversion mount using original screws and mounting holes | Download free 3D printable STL models

www.printables.com

iMac 27" (2014) RAM Door Inputs Cover by KevDoy | Download free STL model | Printables.com

As part of 5K screen conversion, this print allows you to feed your inputs through the RAM door opening. | Download free 3D printable STL models

www.printables.com

DIY 5K Monitor v2 by SirPrintsALot | Download free STL model | Printables.com

DIY 5K Monitor project with 2x Display Port 1.4, 2x HDMI, and USB-C with PD. Also has IR remote to switch inputs. | Download free 3D printable STL models

www.printables.com

PM me if anyone is interested!
And please reply if you have more to share!

 

[PaulD-UK]

Those look good for the JRY—AA1 and R9A18 boards.
The last one is for the R1811, but unfortunately not for fitting inside the iMac case.
Nice to see them all. Thank you. 👍

 

[Kaeslin]

When you say that some boards have a heatsink that is too small, that makes me suspicious again. Which boards would those be?

I am referring to those JRY-W9RQUHD boards where the VLSI chip seems to carry some greenish cover. As far as I can judge from photos, this does not resemble any industrial heat sink that I am aware of.

Can I just run the R1811 without a fan, for example?

While I lack practical experience with the R1811, I would not recommend any modification that restricts cooling below what the circuit designers deemed necessary as overheating greatly reduces the lifespan of electronic components.

I think it's better to have airflow to both sides of the boards for better cooling, so some sort of stand-off arrangement is better than velcro or the glue gun...

I fully agree and used off-the shelf plastic parts that I glued into the case such a to match the mounting holes of the board. To cope withe the curvature, I had to find standoffs of different lengths.

As for your other questions, PaulD-UK did a great job answering them in his contribution #1,608 Thank you, Paul!

 

[PaulD-UK]

With respect to running a R1811 fanless, an enterprising Chinese YT'er has the perfect solution - to fit the heatsink from a R9A18 (or one of the 4K CY.R*** boards by the same manufacturer).
He did use fans on the case vents.

In this thread @Pondering in post #988, did the same sort of thing, with a copper heatsink.

 

[Benjinator]

Hi all, I’m attempting a 2015 conversion using the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 from stonetaskin and it appears they have sent me the wrong backlight cable . Does anyone know the pin out of the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 and the backlight connector so I could DIY my own cable? Thanks!

​

 

[T-Bone90]

Thank you all very much, but I still have a few little questions.

The R9A18 is still available, as it is the best board to use to drive a DIY monitor with older Macs from 2016-2018, as these Macs can't do single cable 5K.

I don't quite understand that yet. Does that mean I can't use my 2017 iMac in 5k with just one cable?

The crossover kit sold on AliExpress to use with these boards have jumper settings that can screw up the sound produced.

Do you have a link to the crossover kits? I looked again (I was mistaken before, they were different boards, not Crossover kits) and actually only found one. But according to the reviews they are bad and those are exactly the ones the YouTuber had installed and they sounded terrible. He had only used the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 and not the R1811, maybe that is the answer.

Höhen-Bass-Lautsprecher Crossover-Divider-Cross ver für 27

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I have combined an R9A18 board with a video splitter to achieve Thunderbolt/USB-C input over a single cable. Zero noise operation was also important to me as the monitor is running all day long in an otherwise quiet environment.

The price of the R9A18 is of course much better. But with the video splitter you get almost the same price as the R1811 board. Hmm, difficult decision. Does the monitor control software work for you?
The R9A18 board don't have USB-C whether you need it or not. The question is whether you should still use it or whether you should get a newer board and make do with a fan.

That’s because it connects to the Thunderbolt port, not DP.
A DIY monitor will work this way too.

That's right, he use Thunderbolt Port. So you think if I use a DP to Thunderbolt/USB-C cable it still won't work with this dock?


///Edit: I saw that the R1811 board package also includes a 24v power supply with EU plugs. That makes the whole thing more attractive in terms of price, so you don't have to buy it.

 

[nullpointerninja]

Does anyone know where to buy a 5.5x2.5 connector that’s rated for more than the usual ~5 watts? I’ve been looking for a decent one but it’s almost impossible to find anything suitable.
Any help appreciated!

 

[PaulD-UK]

@Benjinator The correct backlight cable should be like the one in your picture, but with a third plug, with 12 spikes on it, on the end of the two ends of the 2-pin/6-pin wires in your pic.

Here's a picture to make it clear. Your cable is slightly different as it does not have the gray 2-pin extension.
If you don't have the 12-pin spike plug, then you have the wrong backlight cable - meant for the LM270QQ2 screen.
Are you sure you asked StoneTaskin for a LM270QQ1 kit?:

 

[PaulD-UK]

@T-Bone90
"Does that mean I can't use my 2017 iMac in 5k with just one cable?"
No, you're fine.
What it means is you can't use a 2017 5K iMac DIY monitor with just one cable connected to a 2016/17/18 MacBook Pro.
Any MBP after 2019 is fine with one cable.

This applies to all conversion cards, as only the R9A18 or R1811 work with two cables with these older Mac laptops (or desktops).

Yes that is the only crossover kit available. It works fine if it is installed properly,
The YouTuber didn't know what he was doing...

Yes. To use the R9A18 with the TB Dual Port splitter increases the price considerably.
That's why I recommend the R1811, also the R1811 is a better design.

To work with your dock you need USB-C to plug into your dock's TB4 port, and a converter cable to DP 1.4 8K to plug into your monitor's video card (R1811 or whatever).
The DP port in your dock is probably only 4K.

If the cost is a problem, then get whichever card you can afford.
All will work fine!

 

[T-Bone90]

If the cost is a problem, then get whichever card you can afford.
All will work fine!

TThank you very much! I have read through a few more pages in this thread and am really grateful for the many reports.
However, I have also read that the audio driver for the R1811 is supposed to be good and other boards (RJY, for example) not so good ...it sounds bad.
There are also supposed to be standby problems with other boards.
I probably won't be able to avoid taking the R1811 😅

 

[Kaeslin]

The price of the R9A18 is of course much better. But with the video splitter you get almost the same price as the R1811 board. Hmm, difficult decision.

For the full picture, you should also take into account the costs for cables, PSU, and mechanical parts plus the effort you will put into the project.

Does the monitor control software work for you?

You mean whether settings such as brightness and saturation can be controlled from the MacBook in the same manner as for the primary display? No, but that's why there is a button board and the IR remote control; I have not installed any software for that purpose. And once set up properly, you hardly need to do any readjustments.

The R9A18 board don't have USB-C whether you need it or not. The question is whether you should still use it or whether you should get a newer board and make do with a fan.

As always in life, you have to decide on your priorities. Personally, I most valued silent operation, prospective reliability/lifetime, sleek construction and simplicity.

 

[Benjinator]

@Benjinator The correct backlight cable should be like the one in your picture, but with a third plug, with 12 spikes on it, on the end of the two ends of the 2-pin/6-pin wires in your pic.

Here's a picture to make it clear. Your cable is slightly different as it does not have the gray 2-pin extension.
If you don't have the 12-pin spike plug, then you have the wrong backlight cable - meant for the LM270QQ2 screen.
Are you sure you asked StoneTaskin for a LM270QQ1 kit?:

View attachment 2403008

Yes my order was for the lm270qq1. I reached out to stonetaskin last week but haven’t gotten a reply yet. Has anyone seen a schematic for the stonetaskin board? I can DIY my cable if need be but don’t want to accidentally kill my board or display…

 

[PaulD-UK]

This is the pin polarity for the AA1 board:

This is the wiring of the 12 pin plug. All the black –ve pins are the same, and red is +ve.
If the screen panel cable has grey wires as well as black then the edge red wire connects to a great wire:

 

[T-Bone90]

So thanks to all for your help. I have now ordered the R1811 v4 (no HDMI 2.1) from the provider. And then I'll order the two crossovers for sound.
Do I absolutely need the ifixit kit? Adhesive strips yes, but I mean all the other tools? I have a few bits in different sizes. I would probably buy the rest separately if something is missing.

What about cable? Are all the cable available sufficient?
My plan is to solder the original power button. And the original power supply connection. For this I would use the power supply that comes with the board...or is it advisable to buy a better one? If so, which one (I live in Germany)? I "don't" want to charge my MacBook.
Does the controller strip have to be attached directly behind the ventilation openings for remote control or goes anywhere in the case so that the IR signal goes through at the end?

And maybe I want to install a good webcam. I don't like it when there is a hole at the top that is not being used. Which one can you recommend? I don't expect top quality but it should be OK. I read somewhere about a 4k camera that would fit in with minor modifications.

And another question about the fan noise of the R1811. Should you replace the fan now (Noctua RC12?) or just buy a voltage reduction resistor (which one? Would the Noctua NA-FC1 work?)

Somehow I'm looking forward to crafting, even if I underestimated the costs a bit. YouTube had converted the display for just over €200. But if you want a better picture, sound, etc., there's a bit more. But OK. I'll see if I've taken over with the project. If necessary, it will then be sold. I'm not sure yet whether I'll like a 27" glossy monitor in the long term as a photographer.