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DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)
- Thread starter fiatlux
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That looks like some of the backlight LEDs at the bottom of the panel aren’t getting power or have failed.
About the only thing you could do about it is check the backlight power plug and check if all the b/l cables from the R1811 are plugged in properly and undamaged.
About the only thing you could do about it is check the backlight power plug and check if all the b/l cables from the R1811 are plugged in properly and undamaged.
/Edit: Post changed.
In the meantime, I'm on the home straight and have already tinkered a lot.
However, the iMac fan doesn't work properly yet. Connected, he is right in my opinion. But it's going to 100% speed. And I can't control anything with Noctua Na-FC1 either. The lamps light up, so PWM should work.
Do you recognize a mistake? What could be the reason?
Maybe Na-Fc1 is also defective. There was a small spark because two cables had touched. Fan still works, but stop 100%.
In the meantime, I'm on the home straight and have already tinkered a lot.
However, the iMac fan doesn't work properly yet. Connected, he is right in my opinion. But it's going to 100% speed. And I can't control anything with Noctua Na-FC1 either. The lamps light up, so PWM should work.
Do you recognize a mistake? What could be the reason?
Maybe Na-Fc1 is also defective. There was a small spark because two cables had touched. Fan still works, but stop 100%.
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Ok.
Firstly, your new plug going to the 12v fan power socket on the R1811 (next to the speaker plug) has its wires the wrong colour. This shows the right way:
So your red wire is –ve and the black wire +ve.
The colour of the cable ISN'T important. It's the POLARITY of the voltage in the wire that is important.
So you need a multi-meter to check which way the polarity, + or –, the voltage is in the wire.
(I use heat shrink tubing of the right colour to show me if I'm using a cable of the wrong colour).
Now:
The manufacturer of different bits has a standard way of assigning polarity to their plugs and sockets, and they will make sure each pin has the correct polarity voltage assigned to that pin.
Noctua fans and controllers are wired like this:
1. Black –ve.
2. Yellow +ve.
3. Green Speed.
4. Blue PWM.
for 4 wire devices.
Or
1. Black –ve.
2. Red +ve.
3. Yellow Speed.
for 3 wire devices.
So, for the iMac fan:
When @Aiwi and I say the 'wires' 1 and 2 need swapping to the power supply of the fan, it MEANS:
pin 1 on the NA-FC1 output goes to wire 2 going into the fan, and pin 2 on the NA-FC1 goes to wire 1 going into the fan.
It looks like you have swapped the coloured wires on the NA-FC1 plug over so pin 1 (–ve, originally black) is now –ve yellow), and pin 2 from the NA-FC1 (+ve, originally yellow), is now +ve black.
BUT pin 1 ourt of the FC1 is still connected (Y wire) to wire 1 of the fan, and pin2 FC1 (B wire) goes to wire 2 fan........
So the fan is still being fed the wrong way round - even though you have changed the colours of the wires?
And for the R1811 fan:
You have fed the voltage the wrong way round (because your red wire isn't +ve, black –ve) into the 3-wire 150 ohm resistor connector, and you have corrected it the right way round on the output - to the R1811 fan...
Final point...
You are taking your fan power from your R1811, so ANY 'short-circuits' or 'sparks' is very dangerous for the safety of your R1811.
And try not to run the iMac fan too fast when it's connected to the R1811 socket, as it can use much more power than the R1811 fan. It should be OK as the slow speeds you need.
If it was me I would power it from a different socket on the R1811 - pins 3 +ve and 4 –ve of Reserve Screen Voltage.
Or pins 1 +ve and 2 –ve of DC Jack (counting from left).
(The colour of the wires are the wrong way round in this pic).
Please take care.........
Firstly, your new plug going to the 12v fan power socket on the R1811 (next to the speaker plug) has its wires the wrong colour. This shows the right way:
So your red wire is –ve and the black wire +ve.
The colour of the cable ISN'T important. It's the POLARITY of the voltage in the wire that is important.
So you need a multi-meter to check which way the polarity, + or –, the voltage is in the wire.
(I use heat shrink tubing of the right colour to show me if I'm using a cable of the wrong colour).
Now:
The manufacturer of different bits has a standard way of assigning polarity to their plugs and sockets, and they will make sure each pin has the correct polarity voltage assigned to that pin.
Noctua fans and controllers are wired like this:
1. Black –ve.
2. Yellow +ve.
3. Green Speed.
4. Blue PWM.
for 4 wire devices.
Or
1. Black –ve.
2. Red +ve.
3. Yellow Speed.
for 3 wire devices.
So, for the iMac fan:
When @Aiwi and I say the 'wires' 1 and 2 need swapping to the power supply of the fan, it MEANS:
pin 1 on the NA-FC1 output goes to wire 2 going into the fan, and pin 2 on the NA-FC1 goes to wire 1 going into the fan.
It looks like you have swapped the coloured wires on the NA-FC1 plug over so pin 1 (–ve, originally black) is now –ve yellow), and pin 2 from the NA-FC1 (+ve, originally yellow), is now +ve black.
BUT pin 1 ourt of the FC1 is still connected (Y wire) to wire 1 of the fan, and pin2 FC1 (B wire) goes to wire 2 fan........
So the fan is still being fed the wrong way round - even though you have changed the colours of the wires?
And for the R1811 fan:
You have fed the voltage the wrong way round (because your red wire isn't +ve, black –ve) into the 3-wire 150 ohm resistor connector, and you have corrected it the right way round on the output - to the R1811 fan...
Final point...
You are taking your fan power from your R1811, so ANY 'short-circuits' or 'sparks' is very dangerous for the safety of your R1811.
And try not to run the iMac fan too fast when it's connected to the R1811 socket, as it can use much more power than the R1811 fan. It should be OK as the slow speeds you need.
If it was me I would power it from a different socket on the R1811 - pins 3 +ve and 4 –ve of Reserve Screen Voltage.
Or pins 1 +ve and 2 –ve of DC Jack (counting from left).
(The colour of the wires are the wrong way round in this pic).
Please take care.........
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Oh you are really fast with answers ;-) First of all, thank you very much for the detailed answer!
I had then edited my post again above because I had also seen that 12V and GND were swapped on the board at the fan connection. I then turned these two red and black and now the R1811 fan is already quieter. So that worked and 150Ohm seems to work.
Nevertheless, the iMac fan is still 100% and I can't adjust it. Lamps on the Noctua NA-FC1 light up, so that works.
Here again current photos, how I have connected it now.
Pin 1 of the iMac Fan goes into Pin 2 of Noctua.
Pin 2 from the iMac fan goes into pin 1 from Noctua.
That should be right.
I don't see a mistake anymore.
Can it be because a yellow cable comes into the NA-FC1 from the direction of R1811 (but the cable is not connected) that the NA-FC1 then regulates the speed incorrectly?
Do you recognize any other error?
Would now reluctantly supply the iMac fan with power somewhere else. Only when nothing works anymore.
I had then edited my post again above because I had also seen that 12V and GND were swapped on the board at the fan connection. I then turned these two red and black and now the R1811 fan is already quieter. So that worked and 150Ohm seems to work.
Nevertheless, the iMac fan is still 100% and I can't adjust it. Lamps on the Noctua NA-FC1 light up, so that works.
Here again current photos, how I have connected it now.
Pin 1 of the iMac Fan goes into Pin 2 of Noctua.
Pin 2 from the iMac fan goes into pin 1 from Noctua.
That should be right.
I don't see a mistake anymore.
Can it be because a yellow cable comes into the NA-FC1 from the direction of R1811 (but the cable is not connected) that the NA-FC1 then regulates the speed incorrectly?
Do you recognize any other error?
Would now reluctantly supply the iMac fan with power somewhere else. Only when nothing works anymore.
The yellow wire into the FC1, is it unconnected?
It's not needed, don't let it short - put some tape over the bare pin.
I can't see anything obviously wrong.
"There was a small spark because two cables had touched."
Was this with PWM wire 4 (blue wire) of the fan?
That should only get 5V, and connecting 12v to it might damage speed control of the fan, or the FC1?
It's not needed, don't let it short - put some tape over the bare pin.
I can't see anything obviously wrong.
"There was a small spark because two cables had touched."
Was this with PWM wire 4 (blue wire) of the fan?
That should only get 5V, and connecting 12v to it might damage speed control of the fan, or the FC1?
Yes the yellow wire into the FC1 is unconnected. I will put some tape on it.
It was the 4 cables from the iMac fan. They were loosely connected with the FC1 as a test. 2 of them touched each other. I guess it was 12V and GND. But I can't say exactly. It is quite possible that there were others.
I'll get another PWM fan tomorrow and test it to see if the FC1 works correctly.
Update:
The Noctua FC1 was broken. After I replaced it, the iMac fan works wonderfully.
The Noctua FC1 was broken. After I replaced it, the iMac fan works wonderfully.
My iMac is now final. I'll test it now and show you a few more pictures later.
The R1811 fan is now running continuously, even if the Mac is in standby and I have turned off the board.
How can I prevent that?
I don't want the R1811 fan to run 24/7.
The R1811 fan is now running continuously, even if the Mac is in standby and I have turned off the board.
How can I prevent that?
I don't want the R1811 fan to run 24/7.
I don't know exactly (had already glued it temporarily (not yet with the adhesive strips)) and don't want to open it again.
But I think if I remember correctly, the iMac fan goes out and the R1811 stays on. The fan of the R1811 also went out, where no device was attached to it yet. Now the Macbook is attached and it stays on (I hear it). Totally annoying
But I think if I remember correctly, the iMac fan goes out and the R1811 stays on. The fan of the R1811 also went out, where no device was attached to it yet. Now the Macbook is attached and it stays on (I hear it). Totally annoying
I'm using USB-C, but the cable goes into my Thunderbolt 4 dock. The MacBook is charged via the dock.
I will try it again by put the USB C cable directly into the MacBook.
That would of course be a project broker if this runs permanently. 😢
I will try it again by put the USB C cable directly into the MacBook.
That would of course be a project broker if this runs permanently. 😢
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The fan stays on, even if no cable is plugged in.
Could it be that the power cable was connected incorrectly? I'm using the original iMac power plug. I clamped it to the power supply. Could it be that the fan would stay on if plus and minus are swapped? Actually, it's alternating current, it shouldn't matter.
Could it be that the power cable was connected incorrectly? I'm using the original iMac power plug. I clamped it to the power supply. Could it be that the fan would stay on if plus and minus are swapped? Actually, it's alternating current, it shouldn't matter.
Here are some pictures. Maybe you'll see a mistake. It's not quite so clean inside
Ps: the R1811 Fan is still audible with 150 Ohm
Ps: the R1811 Fan is still audible with 150 Ohm
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looks cleaner than most!Here are some pictures. Maybe you'll see a mistake. It's not quite so clean inside
That shouldn’t matter, but there is a
‘neutral’ and ‘live’ mains A/C wire, and these should be connected to the right input of the power supply.
The R1811 will turn off even if the 24v is always on.
Are you sure the R1811 power button is connected so that it works properly, and the light on the Control Strip turns off, and you get the ‘powering down’ notification on the screen turning off after 1 minute?
‘neutral’ and ‘live’ mains A/C wire, and these should be connected to the right input of the power supply.
The R1811 will turn off even if the 24v is always on.
Are you sure the R1811 power button is connected so that it works properly, and the light on the Control Strip turns off, and you get the ‘powering down’ notification on the screen turning off after 1 minute?
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Can anything happen if both were connected the wrong way around? I didn't measure the two black cables of the iMac Power Socket. May well be that + and - have been swapped.
But if the R1811 has to go off no matter what you connect there, it doesn't matter with my problem.
Yes, I also soldered the original iMac power switch. There it probably doesn't matter which cable has to go from the switch-on to + and - the small remote control, right?
The led light goes off witch the IR remote and with the original iMac Power switch.
But the fan is still on
I watched a lot of @Aiwi.
Here are a few details:
- original iMac speaker with two crossover boards (Sound is ok, Bit the spediere from my MacBook Pro 2021 are mich better )
- Power supply from MeanWell, attached with parts from the 3D printer
- original iMac fan with Noctua NC1 controller
- both USB-C and all four USB-A ports of the iMac are connected. USB-C once DisplayPort and once USB-C from the R1811. The four USB ports are connected by means of a 24V-5V connector. The inner bracket for the connecters are printed using 3D printers.
- 4K Webcam
I'll test again and if necessary open the iMac again and plug in all cables B and see if the fan goes out at some point. Maybe it's also because of the originals. Power Switch, which I soldered last. Because in between the R1811 fan went out during the construction phase.
///Edit:
iMac fan continues to rotate when R1811 is off.
///Edit2: I have now unplugged all USB cables and DisplayPort and usb-c from the R1811. Both fans continue to run anyway. So it can only be due to the power supply or the wiring, right? I even took off the keyboard, the fans still continue to run.
In principle, now only hangs on the board:
- Power supply
- Display
///Edit3: my power supply has a remote on off function. Maybe I still have to clamp something in the power supply?
I wanted to attach a 21 V power supply as a test to test whether it is due to the power supply, but the R1811 did not start at all (needs 24V).
If I have no Computer connected I get the Message „power saving“ (red led light is on). If i Turn off the board, then no Message Are on the screen.
Here are a few details:
- original iMac speaker with two crossover boards (Sound is ok, Bit the spediere from my MacBook Pro 2021 are mich better
)- Power supply from MeanWell, attached with parts from the 3D printer
- original iMac fan with Noctua NC1 controller
- both USB-C and all four USB-A ports of the iMac are connected. USB-C once DisplayPort and once USB-C from the R1811. The four USB ports are connected by means of a 24V-5V connector. The inner bracket for the connecters are printed using 3D printers.
- 4K Webcam
I'll test again and if necessary open the iMac again and plug in all cables B and see if the fan goes out at some point. Maybe it's also because of the originals. Power Switch, which I soldered last. Because in between the R1811 fan went out during the construction phase.
///Edit:
iMac fan continues to rotate when R1811 is off.
///Edit2: I have now unplugged all USB cables and DisplayPort and usb-c from the R1811. Both fans continue to run anyway. So it can only be due to the power supply or the wiring, right? I even took off the keyboard, the fans still continue to run.
In principle, now only hangs on the board:
- Power supply
- Display
///Edit3: my power supply has a remote on off function. Maybe I still have to clamp something in the power supply?
I wanted to attach a 21 V power supply as a test to test whether it is due to the power supply, but the R1811 did not start at all (needs 24V).
If I have no Computer connected I get the Message „power saving“ (red led light is on). If i Turn off the board, then no Message Are on the screen.
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Nice pictures. Thank you.
My R1811 fan switches off about 8 seconds after going into stand by, after the red light comes on.
Switching off with the Control Strip off button almost immediately switches off the fan.
Its definitely a software switch on the board as the response is delayed for a moment.
Maybe that's the problem on your board?
My R1811 also works with a 19V power supply, so your 21V power supply might have a plug that isn't correct.
My R1811 fan switches off about 8 seconds after going into stand by, after the red light comes on.
Switching off with the Control Strip off button almost immediately switches off the fan.
Its definitely a software switch on the board as the response is delayed for a moment.
Maybe that's the problem on your board?
My R1811 also works with a 19V power supply, so your 21V power supply might have a plug that isn't correct.
Hmm i dont know.
What else can I test? I have now removed all the cables except the round power supply cable and the fan. Still not possible.
? Maybe the board really has a defect.
The second power supply with 21V worked later, but that was not the purpose. The problem remains.
Otherwise the board is defective and I have to write to Stonetaskin for replacement.
What else can I test? I have now removed all the cables except the round power supply cable and the fan. Still not possible.
? Maybe the board really has a defect.
The second power supply with 21V worked later, but that was not the purpose. The problem remains.
Otherwise the board is defective and I have to write to Stonetaskin for replacement.
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