Quick question before I flash: I got the 201388-A version of the cable matters adapter, and VmmHIDTool says "Firmware version: 7.02.120", which seems newer than the 7.02.112 version from OP. should I flash the 112 one anyway?
Read the OP there are some Dock where are confirmed:Can you recommend the dock u are using right now?
Yes, the Firmwareversion Number is not nessasary, its the configuration in this special Firmware where is important.Quick question before I flash: I got the 201388-A version of the cable matters adapter, and VmmHIDTool says "Firmware version: 7.02.120", which seems newer than the 7.02.112 version from OP. should I flash the 112 one anyway?
HDMI PC switch is an LG thing, put a request to LG. This is also present on CX C1 C2 and so on.Sorry I came across this thread and want to make sure what I need to do is possible before I go down the rabbit hole.
I have a 16" M2 Max Macbook Pro with a 42" LG C2. It does 4k/120hz with HDR. Every time I disconnect the HDMI the PC icon changes on the LG OLED to regular HDMI and I have to redo the PC icon to get correct settings. If I get one of these adapters, will the PC connection stay? Also allowing me to do the full 4k/120hz with HDR? Or am I losing anything?
So this won't fix that problem correct? No point for me to do this if the HDMI output on my M2 Max is alread giving 4k/120 HDR/VRR.HDMI PC switch is an LG thing, put a request to LG. This is also present on CX C1 C2 and so on.
Yes. U can use a native Dock where are always connected to the Dongle and are always on to prevent this issue. There are some things that u can force on EDID override like RGB. But i never seen that LG TVs automatically switch to PC Mode, anyone else here ??So this won't fix that problem correct? No point for me to do this if the HDMI output on my M2 Max is alread giving 4k/120 HDR/VRR.
Can you explain this a bit better. So if I get the dongle, it won't fix my issue for PC Mode switching. BUT if I get a dock, it will? Since the HDMI will be locked in the dock? Wouldn't the same be said for the dongle?Yes. U can use a native Dock where are always connected to the Dongle and are always on to prevent this issue. There are some things that u can force on EDID override like RGB. But i never seen that LG TVs automatically switch to PC Mode, anyone else here ??
Everything is clear. However, I have a question, do I need to buy both of these adapters?1.1.
USB-C>HDMI 2.1 Cable Matters Adapter (CM Page)
1.2.
DP>HDMI 2.1: VMM7100: (Plug&Play)
CableMatters 102101
Of course. Just that it's an expensive option already, hard to find on top of that, and I would have no use for my existing dock then.Yeah, but using an VMM7100 on an TB4 Dock is the best solution. Dont forget, 4k@120hz 4:4:4 use a lot of Bandwidth.
If u need USB-C to HDMI then 1.1 if u need DP to HDMI then 1.2 its clearEverything is clear. However, I have a question, do I need to buy both of these adapters?
Sorry if it is already answered, I didn't go through all of the pages.
Thank you.If u need USB-C to HDMI then 1.1 if u need DP to HDMI then 1.2 its clear
Btw I don't get HDR at 120 hz. I have to turn it down to 60 hz to get HDR. It's not really a problem though as most movies are 24fps.On M1 Ultra, I am able to get 1440p or above with HDR at 120Hz, but I can't seem to get the same with the M2 Ultra. The HDR toggle disappears when at or above 1440p at 120Hz. HDR shows if I set it at 100Hz or if I go to 4K 120Hz. So weird, is anyone experiencing this?
Specs:
Mac Studio M2 Ultra
LG C2 42 OLED
8K UHD cable
Cable Matters VMM7100
Ventura 13.5
Mac Studio M1 Ultra works perfectly fine.
In my experience, keeping the adapter connected DOES fix this issue of the TV switching off of PC mode, no dock used here. However, you'll have a new issue of your machine not wanting to wake from sleep sometimes (have to disconnect and reconnect the adapter to the Mac). Doesn't happen very often, and I'd say it's less annoying than fumbling with the LG menus to get back to PC mode.Can you explain this a bit better. So if I get the dongle, it won't fix my issue for PC Mode switching. BUT if I get a dock, it will? Since the HDMI will be locked in the dock? Wouldn't the same be said for the dongle?
U can test MacOS SonomaIn my experience, keeping the adapter connected DOES fix this issue of the TV switching off of PC mode, no dock used here. However, you'll have a new issue of your machine not wanting to wake from sleep sometimes (have to disconnect and reconnect the adapter to the Mac). Doesn't happen very often, and I'd say it's less annoying than fumbling with the LG menus to get back to PC mode.
I'm not using HDR though so can't comment on that.
I contact CM if there is a new Firmware, but i dont think so.I have flashed the 201388-A = VMM7100 Cable Matters adapter as indicated. For me the firware attached in the zip files on the first page of this thread, after flashing, did not work at all when trying to connect my windows laptop to my LG C2 and they did not work when trying to my MacBook Pro M1 16 to my LG C2. I have managed to flash the firmware files provided by Alec Sullivan in this youtube video ->in his comments: https://l.linklyhq.com/l/1qSry. Flashing them on my 201388-A = VMM7100 Cable Matters adapter made the adapter work for both the Windows laptop and for the Macbook at 120 RBG 10b 4L10 on my LG C2.
However I am very very curios on the following aspect: I have noticed that the adapter gets a bit warm. I have not taken a direct temperature measurement but I will. It is my impression that the MacBooks battery is draining faster or at least A LITTLE FASTER than usual. To me, the fact that it is running at 120 FPS and getting warm indicates that there is a noteworthy amount of power going through, being drained from the battery.
Is there anyone here on the forum with similar experience of this particular adapter getting noticeably warm? Does anyone with a different adapter have the same issue?
Does anyone know of any way I might be able to monitor the power output going through the ThunderBolt port where the dongle is connected? I am very very curious to see what sort of impact this has on the power consumption... especially compared to the power consumption that would be expected via the normal HDMI output. Any thought?
Thank you all. I have created my account 10 min ago, just to share this.