The problem is from the TV itself. Sony X1 processor can't handle 120Hz input properly. It halves vertical screen resolution (internally) to achieve that refresh rate. I had the 43" X85J with same issue. It was also evident on my Xbox Series X video output.Another follow up, sorry for spamming. My windows machine also looks jagged with 120hz but clears up with 60hz.
I'm using this usb-c KVM switch linked below to switch between my Surface Laptop 7, and M1 pro Macbook Pro. I'm using all 48GBps certified usb-c cables, the Cable Matters DP -> HDMI adapter and a HDMI 2.1 certified cable to 43" Sony Bravia X85k tv.
usb-c KVM switch:
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DP/USB-C/Thunderbolt 3/4 to HDMI 2.1 4k@120hz RGB4:4:4 10b HDR with Apple Silicon M1/M2/M3 now possible !
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I HAVE GOOD NEWS
I read through a bunch of the replies on this thread and found someone who mentioned that they got it to work but only with the flash tool found on the Microsoft store. Further, when they did it, they used a regular usb C port (not even one with alt mode or with DP compatibility), and they also did it without a display connected. I figured what the hell, and literally dug my adapter out of the trash and downloaded the flash tool. Turns out, it wasn't bricked, it was just that the flash tool in the zip file couldn't recognize it, but the one on the MS store could. I flashed it with the usb c -> hdmi firmware and it worked immediately. It gave me the warning that the flash was for a different board, and I clicked continue to flash anyway like the instructions said to.
I would give this a try. Hopefully you didn't throw away your adapter after you thought it was bricked!
Summary:
VMM7100 cable matters adapter
flashed using the software from the MS store
flashed with the usb c -> hdmi firmware (NOT the dp -> hdmi firmware, that one didn't work)
flashed using standard usb c port
flashed without any display connected
now works flawlessly with M1 Pro, 4K120HZ with HDR
works flawlessly with my LG C2, AND it allows my TV to remember to stay in pc mode even after I unplug it from my MacBook. The screen even switches instantly when I open and close the lid. Couldn't be more satisfied right now.
wowzas!!!
edit: the adapter does seem to get a little hot. Anyone else's run cool, or do they all run hot?
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No there are Samsung tooOh wow, that's disappointingUnfortunately it's the only 43" 120hz non-OLED tv.
Yes u have to test both tools, on surface the native tool works better as the app.
I update the OP with more clear instructions.
Samsung QN90B works really well but local dimming is a pain and disabling it turns the black levels into IPS territory 😅
Oh wow, that's disappointing
I'd suggest to wait for new releases from LG or Sony, hopefully the attention Samsung gave to the QN90B would spur some competition. Or better yet, go for a monitor 😪
I wanted to share my own experience, just in case it helps anyone.
I have a 16-inch M1 Macbook Pro (base model), with the CalDigit T4 dock and the Cable Matters DisplayPort to HDMI adapter.
I flashed the firmware on a Windows PC using VMMDPTool64 once, and while the flashing worked (verified in the Debug tab), and I was able to get 120Hz, I had constant flashing every time I switched inputs to the Macbook Pro (10-15 times, it took 1-2 minutes every time I switched), and sometimes it didn't take at all. I tried using BetterDisplay with the options in the first post in this thread, and it didn't change anything. I have a high quality Highwings 2 meter HDMI cable connected to a TCL 6 series 8k60/4k120 TV, and the TV and cable work fine with the windows PC at 4k120 and 8k60.
Now, it shouldn't work this way, but I read the above post about re-flashing (slightly different circumstances, since mine wasn't bricked), but I tried re-flashing again anyway, and now it works perfectly! Thank you to everyone involved in making this work.
I have a 16-inch M1 Macbook Pro (base model), with the CalDigit T4 dock and the Cable Matters DisplayPort to HDMI adapter.
I flashed the firmware on a Windows PC using VMMDPTool64 once, and while the flashing worked (verified in the Debug tab), and I was able to get 120Hz, I had constant flashing every time I switched inputs to the Macbook Pro (10-15 times, it took 1-2 minutes every time I switched), and sometimes it didn't take at all. I tried using BetterDisplay with the options in the first post in this thread, and it didn't change anything. I have a high quality Highwings 2 meter HDMI cable connected to a TCL 6 series 8k60/4k120 TV, and the TV and cable work fine with the windows PC at 4k120 and 8k60.
Now, it shouldn't work this way, but I read the above post about re-flashing (slightly different circumstances, since mine wasn't bricked), but I tried re-flashing again anyway, and now it works perfectly! Thank you to everyone involved in making this work.
@davidawolf I noticed you have the CableMatters instead of the Anker like most here. I recently acquired the 201428-GRY from CableMatters to pair up with my LG C2 48". I read you had success 'assocating' the USB to Parallels but I'm having a pickle of a time figuring out where in the settings this is. I'm at my wits end with the Spyder chip is not connected error.
Here is where I'm stuck.
The only USB connected devices I have are my TerraMaster DAS and in fact, the dongle I have connected powering the HDMI cable going to the LG doesn't even appear in the list.
Appreciate any insight you may have.
Here is where I'm stuck.
The only USB connected devices I have are my TerraMaster DAS and in fact, the dongle I have connected powering the HDMI cable going to the LG doesn't even appear in the list.
Appreciate any insight you may have.
Attachments
So every effort to use Parallel has failed with this device? I'm bummed as my only Windows machine proper, has a USB-C port that doesn't do video. I've tried several times to see if I could get my PC to recognize it but it won't. Even got the Spyder chip nonsense pop up on a standalone Windows machine.
Sadly, the M2 Pro/Max HDR bug video it is not outdated. You can get 3840x2160 (LoDPI) with HDR - however scaled resolutions (including the most common 2560x1440 for 4K displays) HDR is missing at 120Hz on the M2 Max. This is due to an apparent design flaw in the M2 Pro level chip itself. The problem is not primarily related to output resolution but the framebuffer resolution (for 3840x2160 the framebuffer resolution is 4K however for 2560x1440 it is 5K). The highest resolution with HDR at 120Hz is 2432x1368 HiDPI on the M2 Max.
Can you elaborate on what 'it does not work' mean? CM sent me the custom firmware and instructions but my antiquated PC from a handful of years ago doesn't seem to have alt mode available as when I plug in the HDMI cable into the dongle, no images are coming through. It's probably just outdated standard. Computer is from 2017 Alienware R6?
At any rate, I do get the dreaded message of Spyder Chip not detected which you diagnosed to another user as not passing through to Windows. I've tried my darnedest to figure out Parallels but still no luck. Hoping more exposure and one of the guys who found success can help me out.
After a few weeks i am super happy with my setup now. Only issue is that with 120hz it switches to 8bit and also introduces a gamma shift (less contrasty). So if i do color grading i switch to 60fps which is not that big of i difference on osx anyways. On windows the high framerate seems way more pronounced for some reasons. Anyone else has the same issue? If there is a way to fix it i would, otherwise i can live with it.
I'm just chiming in here hoping to find someone with a similar setup I have a Macbook M2 2022 on macOS Sonoma with the Anker adapter attached to my LG C1. 120 Hertz works fine, videos for example run smoothly. However, I can't get Geforce Now Ultimate to run in 120hz without micro stutters every few milliseconds. I've tried a few things: label the input as PC, different cables, lower resolution, lowering the quality completely, VSync on and off, Game Mode, G-Sync or Freesync on and off - nothing changes. In principle, the games run smoothly, but every few milliseconds there is a short stuttering/tearing. The same with 120hz/60fps. If I play in 60hz and 60fps, the games run absolutely smooth. Does anyone have any ideas what I can do? Or is anyone using a similar setup and can play without judder? Would love to have 120hz as smooth as 60hz. any input is appreciated. thanks
I have a Macbook M2 2022 on macOS Sonoma with the Anker adapter attached to my LG C1. 120 Hertz works fine, videos for example run smoothly. However, I can't get Geforce Now Ultimate to run in 120hz without micro stutters every few milliseconds. I've tried a few things: label the input as PC, different cables, lower resolution, lowering the quality completely, VSync on and off, Game Mode, G-Sync or Freesync on and off - nothing changes. In principle, the games run smoothly, but every few milliseconds there is a short stuttering/tearing. The same with 120hz/60fps. If I play in 60hz and 60fps, the games run absolutely smooth. Does anyone have any ideas what I can do? Or is anyone using a similar setup and can play without judder? Would love to have 120hz as smooth as 60hz. any input is appreciated. thanks I'm using pretty much the same as you but i haven't upgraded to sonoma yet. I haven't noticed any micro-stutter. Any issues i've had i've attributed to lag beacuse of streaming more than the display. Will test some more tonight. Haven't had the performance overlay on but can try with that as well.I'm just chiming in here hoping to find someone with a similar setup
I've only tried Shadow Gambit: The Cursed Crew so far.Thanks for your comment! I switched to the Sonoma beta hoping it would change something about the judder
You got your VMM6210 chip hub to output 4k 120hz? Can you explain your process?
I just want to share my experience with the mentioned ANKER Adapter
For me the firmware does not work. (works now, had the wrong firmware) I just cant get an Image with the firmware. The Adapter is still recognized by the Firmware Updater Tool but the DEBUG log says "capture EDID failed" and Adapter in "Bootloader Mode".
After that even the backuped ANKER firmware did not bring him back to life, same error message.
Fortunately the newest Cable Matters Firmware (without Apple 120 Hz EDID mod) revived the Adapter.
Update: The Anker Adapter works perfectly with the firmware. My fault was that I did not recognized that I downloaded the DP>HDMI Firmware but needed the USB-C>HDMI Firmware.
Anker USB C auf HDMI Adapter (8K@60Hz oder 4K@144Hz), 518 USB-C Adapter (8K HDMI), USB C to HDMI, für MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, iPad Pro, Pixelbook, XPS und mehr
Anker USB C auf HDMI Adapter (8K@60Hz oder 4K@144Hz), 518 USB-C Adapter (8K HDMI), USB C to HDMI, für MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, iPad Pro, Pixelbook, XPS und mehr
www.amazon.de
For me the firmware does not work. (works now, had the wrong firmware) I just cant get an Image with the firmware. The Adapter is still recognized by the Firmware Updater Tool but the DEBUG log says "capture EDID failed" and Adapter in "Bootloader Mode".
After that even the backuped ANKER firmware did not bring him back to life, same error message.
Fortunately the newest Cable Matters Firmware (without Apple 120 Hz EDID mod) revived the Adapter.
Cable Matters Knowledge Base - Page not found
Knowledge Base for Cable Matters Connectivity Products
kb.cablematters.com
Update: The Anker Adapter works perfectly with the firmware. My fault was that I did not recognized that I downloaded the DP>HDMI Firmware but needed the USB-C>HDMI Firmware.
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So I got it to work without VRR. 4K/120 HDR...but I am having a problem though with this Cablematters adapter.
Sometimes (most of the time) my screen goes grey when first starting my C2 OLED with Macbook Pro connected to it.
I just unplug and replug, it works fine. But almost always it does this grey screen first. Any fixes or ideas?
Sometimes (most of the time) my screen goes grey when first starting my C2 OLED with Macbook Pro connected to it.
I just unplug and replug, it works fine. But almost always it does this grey screen first. Any fixes or ideas?
Can you link all the items you bought and the steps you took to make this work? So you have the adapter going to the Dell? Then all to the C2?
I successfully flashed the Anker 518 USB-C to HDMI 2.1 adapter and it works at 4K@120Hz PCM with my LG 42LX1Q6LA (same panel as the LG C2) and a M1 MacBook Air 👍🏼
I used Parallels and needed to download the VMMHIDtool from the Microsoft Store to flash it. I had it connected to a standard USB-C (10Gbps) on my Mac Studio while flashing it with no display connected.
I used Parallels and needed to download the VMMHIDtool from the Microsoft Store to flash it. I had it connected to a standard USB-C (10Gbps) on my Mac Studio while flashing it with no display connected.
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