My plan: today I spent sometime checking the tutorial and exploring the menus.
What would you suggest?
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From bridge camera to DSLR or Mirrorless: tips?
- Thread starter katbel
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I use DXO PhotoLab 5, and also occasionally Luminar Ai for finishing touches. I found that for me, DXO seems to be fairly intuitive and I have little difficulty finding my way around and doing what I want and need to do. A lot of people use Lightroom, but I prefer to have my images free from any program's "catalog" and that way I can put the files where I choose.
I use Lightroom, it integrates with mobile devices, multi-platform, and is subscription. There are stand alone programs like DXO. Do you plan on shooting with an output of jpegs, or use the cameras raw files for a greater range of editing.
Are these going to be home wall pics, or exhibit gallery?
When you start shooting. Shoot raw + jpeg. Get a trial offering to a photo editing program, ie DXO, Capture One, Adobe Photoshop Elements, ON1, Luminar - and experience working with your images in these environments - they are all different animals. Your jpegs OOC (out of camera) will be determined by the cameras settings - color profile, sharpness, contrast ... - the raw files will not have these embedded settings and are basically what the camera saw. You can adjust these raw files as you like and are not limited to pre-sets from the camera. Edit: as you have had a camera before, this may be knowledge you already have.
Recommendations:
Get a clear glass filter for the lens, I use B+W brand. This way you don't need to be constantly putting the lens cap on, and lessens the chance of scratching the lens surface.
Get a second battery.
Get a comfortable neck strap - I use a cotton rope strap I purchased on Amazon. Doesn't cut into my neck on walk abouts
Are these going to be home wall pics, or exhibit gallery?
When you start shooting. Shoot raw + jpeg. Get a trial offering to a photo editing program, ie DXO, Capture One, Adobe Photoshop Elements, ON1, Luminar - and experience working with your images in these environments - they are all different animals. Your jpegs OOC (out of camera) will be determined by the cameras settings - color profile, sharpness, contrast ... - the raw files will not have these embedded settings and are basically what the camera saw. You can adjust these raw files as you like and are not limited to pre-sets from the camera. Edit: as you have had a camera before, this may be knowledge you already have.
Recommendations:
Get a clear glass filter for the lens, I use B+W brand. This way you don't need to be constantly putting the lens cap on, and lessens the chance of scratching the lens surface.
Get a second battery.
Get a comfortable neck strap - I use a cotton rope strap I purchased on Amazon. Doesn't cut into my neck on walk abouts
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Congratulations on your new camera @katbel - you’ll have a great time with it! Adding my 2 cents on raw processors, less from the point of view of which one you should choose (most are pretty good these days) but more on how they might be characterized.
Focus on “Manual Control” of raw processing: Lightroom, Capture One, Dxo. These definitely have great automated features, but they highlight many tools for fine-grained control of exposure, perspective correction, curves, levels, color, etc. There tends to be a focus on image catalog management as well. For example, Adobe Lightroom is often referred to as the “industry standard”. It is generally considered the best digital asset manager (DAM) in addition to being a highly competent raw processor. It has the largest user base and an entire industry built up selling presets, plug-ins, etc as well as providing tutorials and support. Obviously, it works well with Adobe’s other elephant, Photoshop. I personally use Capture One as my raw processor and Photoshop as my pixel editor.
Focus on “Automation”: Luminar, On1, Apple Photos and numerous others. These highlight their “one click” and AI capabilities. I think of it as “filter based”, so you can apply a quick moody black&white filter to achieve an effect. They have manual controls too but put a lot of work into automation. If you’re on a Mac, don’t discount Apple Photos as a raw processor, at least in the beginning of your journey. It’s free, it has some reasonable level of image management, it’s super fast, and has a good mix of global manual control and automation.
There are others I haven’t mentioned but thinking about them as either allowing you to get “down and dirty” or go fully automated can be a useful approach as you start out with a raw processor. It’s worth trying a few out too. A lot of people here use at least some of the tools I’ve mentioned so we will have your back!
Focus on “Manual Control” of raw processing: Lightroom, Capture One, Dxo. These definitely have great automated features, but they highlight many tools for fine-grained control of exposure, perspective correction, curves, levels, color, etc. There tends to be a focus on image catalog management as well. For example, Adobe Lightroom is often referred to as the “industry standard”. It is generally considered the best digital asset manager (DAM) in addition to being a highly competent raw processor. It has the largest user base and an entire industry built up selling presets, plug-ins, etc as well as providing tutorials and support. Obviously, it works well with Adobe’s other elephant, Photoshop. I personally use Capture One as my raw processor and Photoshop as my pixel editor.
Focus on “Automation”: Luminar, On1, Apple Photos and numerous others. These highlight their “one click” and AI capabilities. I think of it as “filter based”, so you can apply a quick moody black&white filter to achieve an effect. They have manual controls too but put a lot of work into automation. If you’re on a Mac, don’t discount Apple Photos as a raw processor, at least in the beginning of your journey. It’s free, it has some reasonable level of image management, it’s super fast, and has a good mix of global manual control and automation.
There are others I haven’t mentioned but thinking about them as either allowing you to get “down and dirty” or go fully automated can be a useful approach as you start out with a raw processor. It’s worth trying a few out too. A lot of people here use at least some of the tools I’ve mentioned so we will have your back!
About photo editors. Most of the popular ones have a free trial. That makes it easier to tryout different apps to find one that fits you. I’ve tried many over the years. Currently I’m using ON1 Photo Raw as my main editor and photo management app. I also use Apple Photos to manage the images I share here and elsewhere.
I will try it. Thanks
Till now I’ve used Photos with the Pixelmator Pro add on or Pixelmator Pro itself.
How do you manage your searches, do you catalog each photo or give it a name?
I do have Adobe elements 9 too. Some where I should have Luminar bought it long time ago and Apple Aperture- I’m still in Mojave and no plan to move it from there till something good happens .
I was thinking to move all my photos that are growing exponentially to a dedicated external disk, triple backup.
Not a bad idea to keep a copy somewhere else.
I don’t like subscribing, prefer to buy apps and I have few already
I ve started to work with raw but I will do more with the Sony
For now it’s very simple : I’m work in progress ?
thanks, it’s exactly my plan; I had a demonstration by a friend of mine. 2nd battery always had it, but the glass filter and shoulder strap are ? ideas
While I can definitely sympathize with your dislike for subscriptions, if you plan to shoot Sony RAW, Adobe’s RAW processing is the best. I’ve tried them all. Capture One is pretty good as well, but Lightroom will offer you the best quality and most latitude.
@katbel Lightroom is nice to use. I have the $10/month Photo Plan - Lightroom+Photoshop. The package comes with only 20GB of Adobe storage, however if you bypass their storage for self-storing (hard-drive, cloud...) the storage is basically unlimited. I have 9GB in cloud self-store, and Adobe is showing that I am using under 1mb of plan storage.
@katbel Lens hood is good, and it can control lens flare. I use a quality clear glass filter so I don't touch the lens to clean it, only touch the filter glass.
I respectfully disagree with putting an extra piece of glass in front of a lens. It's double the surface area to keep clean, and I've seen more instances of the filters getting jammed on the lens in the event of a mishap than instances of them purportedly doing their job. If you need something like a neutral density filter, I understand, but just a clear filter? If I'm spending $2k on a lens, I want the best optics possible, and if the lens manufacturer thought a filter was necessary, they'd add one on at the factory.
I sometimes use screw on macro filters and they are a pain to keep clean, but on a few lenses, that's my only option if I want to get a bit closer.
I have, however, personally saved several lenses by using a hood consistently.
But, to each their own. I just think people who aren't familiar with filters should know the pros and cons. Most of it is just an unnecessary expense, IMO. But, if someone wishes to use one for their own peace of mind, then have at it.....
I sometimes use screw on macro filters and they are a pain to keep clean, but on a few lenses, that's my only option if I want to get a bit closer.
I have, however, personally saved several lenses by using a hood consistently.
But, to each their own. I just think people who aren't familiar with filters should know the pros and cons. Most of it is just an unnecessary expense, IMO. But, if someone wishes to use one for their own peace of mind, then have at it.....
This is a good point. I once tried removing a color filter from a rangefinder lens and it started unscrewing the lens assembly from the barrel. Scared the hell out of me.
Filters can get stuck on a lens do to the poor quality of the mounting. People grab the filter on the edge with two fingers, push in and deform the ring causing it to lock in place. A method to remove a stuck filter to place your palm over the filter, press down and rotate off - even distribution of force.
Edit: if one is concerned about stuck filters or changes filters often - you can get a magnetic filter. Attach a magnetic ring to the lens, then your choice of filter attaches to the ring magnetically. No screwing with filters.
Edit: if one is concerned about stuck filters or changes filters often - you can get a magnetic filter. Attach a magnetic ring to the lens, then your choice of filter attaches to the ring magnetically. No screwing with filters.
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So they would add a screw on clear glass filter, which you stated you are against.
As you said, it is a personal choice - and a clear filter was my suggestion to katbel from use experience.
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well my point is that i have never purchased a lens where the manufacturer has included an extra clear glass filter. they are sold by third parties.
but now katbel has the necessary information to make her own choice. ?
Filters vs no filters is like Canon vs Nikon -- an age-old discussion (dare I say, passionate debate?!) among photographers! LOL! Regardless of whether or not one puts a UV Haze filter or some other kind of filter over their lens they really should always, always use the lens hood which comes with their lens. The lens hood shades extraneous light from coming in while shooting and can protect the lens if the camera and/or lens is dropped or bumped.
I've done both -- used filters and not used filters. Yes, they do keep one's fingers from inadvertently mucking up the lens itself and they can be the ones which take the brunt of an inadvertent bump and/or scratch rather than the lens, but they also do add an extra layer of glass between the carefully-designed lens and its intended subject. Also if the photographer tends to use a lot of other filters such as the so-called "poor man's 'macro'" -- i.e., closeup lenses -- that Molly mentions, or frequently puts an ND or polarizing filter on for landscape shooting, that stacking and adding-removing of filters can be a nuisance and potentially problematic and may even cause vignetting.
Everyone has his or her own system when it comes to organizing their images. I prefer to set up my own hierarchical structure and I do give each folder a name, each file a name, each image a name -- and I try to make it somewhat meaningful (at least to me). I rarely need to search for any of my images but when I do, I have a pretty good memory and often will think, "ah, yes, I've got an image of [whatever the object or subject may be] that will work just perfectly in this week's competition (or in the Photo Association Game thread)." Other people like to use keywords and develop a catalog with Lightroom or other programs which offer Digital Asset Management (DAM).
As for camera straps -- somewhere around here in the Digital Photography section there is a thread about camera straps, where everything from wrist straps to devices such as the Cotton Carrier (?) which cradle the camera against one's body are discussed. I think the thread is called "How Do You Carry Your Camera?" or something similar. It's a very useful thread as it discusses the pros and cons of the different approaches and also the different brands. For years I used Op/Tech straps and it was only this past summer when I was preparing for the arrival of my Sony A1 that I decided to make a change and now I am using the Peak Designs system, which I'm finding very versatile and useful. I never use the camera strap which comes with a new camera -- usually those are stiff and uncomfortable.
Backing up one's image files is an absolute MUST!! Some people use a NAS, other people use Time Machine, Some use Carbon Copy Cloner or other backup software, and others of us do things manually. I fall into the latter category. I use external SSDs for this purpose, plus I have a couple of older HDD with earlier archival backups on them. It's been a gradual process over the past several years of converting to external SSDs from the old HDDs. Each month I take one set of external drives with my backup of my important files (documents, music, movies, etc.) and my important image files to my bank safe deposit and swap them out with the set that is in there. I bring home the older set and update it and the following month it returns to the bank..... Upon occasion when I have just added some really important files I'll take a freshly updated set to the bank at some other time during the month as well (say, after I have prepared my income taxes and have duly received my refund) so that the .pdf of the prepared tax files or other important new material is immediately safe from any sort of crisis that might happen at home.
Ah, one more thing, as Steve Jobs was fond of saying..... Do you have a tripod? How will you connect the camera to it? Does the tripod have a quick-release thingy? if your tripod uses the Arca-Swiss system, be sure to get the right type of plate for the camera body so that you can use the camera on it.
I've done both -- used filters and not used filters. Yes, they do keep one's fingers from inadvertently mucking up the lens itself and they can be the ones which take the brunt of an inadvertent bump and/or scratch rather than the lens, but they also do add an extra layer of glass between the carefully-designed lens and its intended subject. Also if the photographer tends to use a lot of other filters such as the so-called "poor man's 'macro'" -- i.e., closeup lenses -- that Molly mentions, or frequently puts an ND or polarizing filter on for landscape shooting, that stacking and adding-removing of filters can be a nuisance and potentially problematic and may even cause vignetting.
Everyone has his or her own system when it comes to organizing their images. I prefer to set up my own hierarchical structure and I do give each folder a name, each file a name, each image a name -- and I try to make it somewhat meaningful (at least to me). I rarely need to search for any of my images but when I do, I have a pretty good memory and often will think, "ah, yes, I've got an image of [whatever the object or subject may be] that will work just perfectly in this week's competition (or in the Photo Association Game thread)." Other people like to use keywords and develop a catalog with Lightroom or other programs which offer Digital Asset Management (DAM).
As for camera straps -- somewhere around here in the Digital Photography section there is a thread about camera straps, where everything from wrist straps to devices such as the Cotton Carrier (?) which cradle the camera against one's body are discussed. I think the thread is called "How Do You Carry Your Camera?" or something similar. It's a very useful thread as it discusses the pros and cons of the different approaches and also the different brands. For years I used Op/Tech straps and it was only this past summer when I was preparing for the arrival of my Sony A1 that I decided to make a change and now I am using the Peak Designs system, which I'm finding very versatile and useful. I never use the camera strap which comes with a new camera -- usually those are stiff and uncomfortable.
Backing up one's image files is an absolute MUST!! Some people use a NAS, other people use Time Machine, Some use Carbon Copy Cloner or other backup software, and others of us do things manually. I fall into the latter category. I use external SSDs for this purpose, plus I have a couple of older HDD with earlier archival backups on them. It's been a gradual process over the past several years of converting to external SSDs from the old HDDs. Each month I take one set of external drives with my backup of my important files (documents, music, movies, etc.) and my important image files to my bank safe deposit and swap them out with the set that is in there. I bring home the older set and update it and the following month it returns to the bank..... Upon occasion when I have just added some really important files I'll take a freshly updated set to the bank at some other time during the month as well (say, after I have prepared my income taxes and have duly received my refund) so that the .pdf of the prepared tax files or other important new material is immediately safe from any sort of crisis that might happen at home.
Ah, one more thing, as Steve Jobs was fond of saying..... Do you have a tripod? How will you connect the camera to it? Does the tripod have a quick-release thingy? if your tripod uses the Arca-Swiss system, be sure to get the right type of plate for the camera body so that you can use the camera on it.
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Peak Designs straps are interesting, I considered going that route. However, those cords (strings) that attach the anchor to the camera lug/bar seem delicate.
That was my concern, too, Steven, about the PD straps. Several users assured me that they are stronger than they look and that they are made of something quite sturdy, not just pieces of string. I usually hold my camera while walking along, anyway, rather than letting it just dangle from my neck, even when I've got just a small, light lens on the camera body. I researched the PD system thoroughly and decided to order a strap, one of the lighter-weight ones, to use on one of my other cameras, just to get an idea of how the whole system works and once I realized the value of its flexibility I was hooked and promptly ordered a wrist strap plus a regular shoulder strap for the A7R IV and another of the same type of strap for the A1. I didn't even have the A1 yet, but was getting myself all prepared by buying accessories ahead of time: strap, CFExpress Type A memory card, the CFExpress Type A / SD card reader, etc.
I love the versatility of this Peak Design system. Right now I've got the wrist strap on my RX10 IV, since I tend to use that camera mainly around home, but if I were to take that camera out for a walk around the lake, it would be a matter of a minute or two to remove the wrist strap and stick a neck strap on the camera before heading out the door. I never used to like wrist straps at all, but now I'm a fan. When I want to use my RX100 VII, which is sitting in the cabinet right now without a strap at all, I can quickly stick the wrist strap on it before putting it to work shooting.
I love the versatility of this Peak Design system. Right now I've got the wrist strap on my RX10 IV, since I tend to use that camera mainly around home, but if I were to take that camera out for a walk around the lake, it would be a matter of a minute or two to remove the wrist strap and stick a neck strap on the camera before heading out the door. I never used to like wrist straps at all, but now I'm a fan. When I want to use my RX100 VII, which is sitting in the cabinet right now without a strap at all, I can quickly stick the wrist strap on it before putting it to work shooting.
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If I can find a lens hood with a strap that fit, I will go with that.
The clear lens was making sense to me because I can't tie the hood but I saw some generic
Going to try
Thanks.
I will go with it only if I cannot find a
Updated
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I'm for the shoulder strap, large, because I have a very delicate neck- had a ski accident and one of my vertebrae is not completely aligned as it should- so the shoulder strap is a very good solution , finding of course the right one to use,
if not I will make my own. Wrist has been ruined as well....but getting better with the time.