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Oh, I thought you'd just run it and perhaps missed the message that says SIP is enabled - it's not super clear.

I actually had some panics after applying the fix, but after it restarted, i restarted myself and the problems went away.

Check the console for the graphics card state number messages?
 
I ran the kext fix about 6 weeks ago and all was well for 1-2 weeks, but now the panics are back. I get a handful per day. Has anyone identified a more specific fix for the case when the software fix alone was not sufficient, such as which capacitor is required in this case?

Also I am in need of a capacitor. I am based in the US and would be happy to pay someone for 1-2 so I can avoid lengthy international shipping. US based only please.
 
Can you launch terminal and type 'csrutil status' - what does it say?

Sometimes, SIP can become re-enabled by OSX.

Otherwise, can one of the experts chime in on what could cause this?
 
I ran the kext fix about 6 weeks ago and all was well for 1-2 weeks, but now the panics are back. I get a handful per day. Has anyone identified a more specific fix for the case when the software fix alone was not sufficient, such as which capacitor is required in this case?

Also I am in need of a capacitor. I am based in the US and would be happy to pay someone for 1-2 so I can avoid lengthy international shipping. US based only please.

Are you a beta program member? Have you done any updates of the macOS (automatic updates maybe)? If yes, it certainly replaced the kext and enabled SIP again. So you must use de mbpfix again.
 
Can you launch terminal and type 'csrutil status' - what does it say?

Sometimes, SIP can become re-enabled by OSX.

Otherwise, can one of the experts chime in on what could cause this?

It says - System Integrity Protection status: enabled.
 
You cant' install the edited kext when the SIP is enabled.

You need to first disable the SIP, then install the kext again.

Right, I already installed the kext fix, it worked fine for a while, and now I get the crashes again. So my question was, since different users are having various degrees of success with the kext fix alone, do I fall into a certain bucket that requires a particular type of capacitor, since it seems that a hardware fix is now necessary.
 
You say that the SIP is enabled : the kext fix does not work if the SIP is enabled.

If your capacitor is totally screwed up, you will get crashes, the kext fix will not work.

The caps I use (successfully) are the alu/film ones (panasonic EEFLT 0D331R or other series).
I buy them from eBay.co.uk, I don't know if there are some on eBay US.
 
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You say that the SIP is enabled : the kext fix does not work if the SIP is enabled.

If your capacitor is totally screwed up, you will get crashes, the kext fix will not work.

The caps I use (successfully) are the alu/film ones (panasonic EEFLT 0D331R or other series).
I buy them from eBay.co.uk, I don't know if there are some on eBay US.

Oh, hm, I installed the fix several weeks ago so I can't recall exactly what I did, but I think I recall re-enabling SIP as per some instruction. Perhaps I misunderstood. If I disable SIP again will the fix start working again? I definitely had zero crashes for at least a week immediately after I tried to implement the fix.
 
Fábio por favor me dê uma luz. Já procurei pelo dito capacitor em todos os lugares, ML, lojas de materiais eletrônicos, e nada.
No mesmo no eBay vindo do reino unido por um valor de R$ 50,00 fora frete é um risco de taxas alfandegárias. Eu usava o método de kext mas minha tela quebrou é uma nova sai mais caro então prefiro trocar o capacitor e usar uma tela externa. Vc pode me ajudar, onde encontro este capacitor de 330uF 2v de alumínio?

Não sei se você já resolveu. Tem esse site que vende componentes eletrônicos:
http://br.mouser.com/

Acho que lá você encontra.

Abraço!
 
I have successfully changed the capacitor:)

I bought EEFSX0E331XE 330 uF 2.5 VDC Aluminium - Polymer

https://www.distrelec.biz/en/polyme...Pos=1&origPageSize=25&simi=97.1&no-cache=true


It worked fine for several hours, even did cinebench with it and all good. Closed the lid on the computer and left it for 1 hour. Then when i opened it, it was off and i can`t figure out how to turn it on again.

What i have tried:
1. On/ off button:)
2. With/ without charger on/ off button.
3. Battery removed on/ off button.
4. Reset SMC
5. Replaced with a new capacitor, (soldering of the first cap seamed fine)
6. step 1-4

The charger is showing green on the indicator.
I have full battery (indicator on the side of MBP)

What are your thoughts?

Thanks
 
I have successfully changed the capacitor:)

I bought EEFSX0E331XE 330 uF 2.5 VDC Aluminium - Polymer

https://www.distrelec.biz/en/polyme...Pos=1&origPageSize=25&simi=97.1&no-cache=true


It worked fine for several hours, even did cinebench with it and all good. Closed the lid on the computer and left it for 1 hour. Then when i opened it, it was off and i can`t figure out how to turn it on again.

What i have tried:
1. On/ off button:)
2. With/ without charger on/ off button.
3. Battery removed on/ off button.
4. Reset SMC
5. Replaced with a new capacitor, (soldering of the first cap seamed fine)
6. step 1-4

The charger is showing green on the indicator.
I have full battery (indicator on the side of MBP)

What are your thoughts?

Thanks

Which way did you install the capacitor? In Louis' video he actually installs it backwards... it's mentioned in the comments. So if you installed it the same way it's not right.
 
I have successfully changed the capacitor:)

I bought EEFSX0E331XE 330 uF 2.5 VDC Aluminium - Polymer

https://www.distrelec.biz/en/polyme...Pos=1&origPageSize=25&simi=97.1&no-cache=true


It worked fine for several hours, even did cinebench with it and all good. Closed the lid on the computer and left it for 1 hour. Then when i opened it, it was off and i can`t figure out how to turn it on again.

What i have tried:
1. On/ off button:)
2. With/ without charger on/ off button.
3. Battery removed on/ off button.
4. Reset SMC
5. Replaced with a new capacitor, (soldering of the first cap seamed fine)
6. step 1-4

The charger is showing green on the indicator.
I have full battery (indicator on the side of MBP)

What are your thoughts?

Thanks
The both fans, speeds up and shot down?
This can be a short circuit..

Remove the cap, clean very well the soldering points and circuit (components) around. Solder again the cap. If this didnt work, consider to solder the tantalun (original) and test.
Good luck
 
Does anyone know if the software fix is going to work in High Sierra? Did anyone try to run this software fix in High Sierra?


Thanks
 
Which way did you install the capacitor? In Louis' video he actually installs it backwards... it's mentioned in the comments. So if you installed it the same way it's not right.
So i found out that it was install as Louis' video, have now reversed it, but still no boot up.

The both fans, speeds up and shot down?
This can be a short circuit..

Remove the cap, clean very well the soldering points and circuit (components) around. Solder again the cap. If this didnt work, consider to solder the tantalun (original) and test.
Good luck

The fans did work as I head them going fast right before i closed the screen. This may be as i ran cinebench test.


But what I did find when i resolder the capacitor is one component right beside "k0384...." is damaged?. Is this on the same circuit as the capacitor?
C9560.jpg

R7GlIWS.jpg
YrW2xm5.jpg


Again thanks for all your help :)
 
So i found out that it was install as Louis' video, have now reversed it, but still no boot up.



The fans did work as I head them going fast right before i closed the screen. This may be as i ran cinebench test.


But what I did find when i resolder the capacitor is one component right beside "k0384...." is damaged?. Is this on the same circuit as the capacitor?
C9560.jpg

R7GlIWS.jpg
YrW2xm5.jpg


Again thanks for all your help :)
It's damaged. :(
Maybe you can buy a broken logic board (same model) and replace this component.
 
Hello fabioroberto, hello everybody,
like many here I'm a 2010 15" MBP user;

My question is, did anyone try to upgrade his machine to 16 GB Ram after fixing the GPU' releated issues in 15" mid-2010 MBPs?

I mean, i'm not an expert but i've read many threads of people perfectly running Linux or Windows on these units with 16 GB of effective Ram (working only with the NVIDIA 330 graphic card), and that the insability when using Apple OSx with 16 GB might be somehow caused by a chip of the Intel HD integrated GPU, for which Apple never developed a proper EFI firmware.

So basically, as i can see, we got:
the well known graphic kernel panic, fixable excluding the discreet GPU when running OS at 4 or 8 GB;
kernel panic mainly caused by the integrated GPU when runnig OS at 16 GB.
Isn't this a countersense?

I was just guessing if with the fixes you proposed (wich as i understand are able to overcome some conflicts in the switch between the two GPUs, giving more stability), the Ram limit of this Macbook model could now be improved.
Might the substitution of the C9650 capacitor together with the exclusion of the Intel GPU be a fine solution? Any other idea?

Anyone interested in more technical information on expanding the Ram above 8 GB on these machines may read here:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/2763468?start=120&tstart=0

Many thanks for your attention
 
Found out that my problem is that I have used the wrong flux. The guy at my local electronic shop recommended me the Weller LW25 for soldering. I see now that this is a non-rosin flux and is not suitable for electronics . I have ordered a damaged board from ebay. But is my original board more damaged after using that flux? Second, I have not clean this after the soldering part. What shall i do? Clean with isopropanol and a cotton swab? Remove all component in the area that was exposed to this flux?

Thanks
 
Found out that my problem is that I have used the wrong flux. The guy at my local electronic shop recommended me the Weller LW25 for soldering. I see now that this is a non-rosin flux and is not suitable for electronics . I have ordered a damaged board from ebay. But is my original board more damaged after using that flux? Second, I have not clean this after the soldering part. What shall i do? Clean with isopropanol and a cotton swab? Remove all component in the area that was exposed to this flux?

Thanks
Clean very well with Isopropyl alcohol (99%), all affected area.
Not apropriate flux can be conductive. Use a good one. I like amtech.
And, always clean the board after soldering.
[doublepost=1498525640][/doublepost]
Hello fabioroberto, hello everybody,
like many here I'm a 2010 15" MBP user;

My question is, did anyone try to upgrade his machine to 16 GB Ram after fixing the GPU' releated issues in 15" mid-2010 MBPs?

I mean, i'm not an expert but i've read many threads of people perfectly running Linux or Windows on these units with 16 GB of effective Ram (working only with the NVIDIA 330 graphic card), and that the insability when using Apple OSx with 16 GB might be somehow caused by a chip of the Intel HD integrated GPU, for which Apple never developed a proper EFI firmware.

So basically, as i can see, we got:
the well known graphic kernel panic, fixable excluding the discreet GPU when running OS at 4 or 8 GB;
kernel panic mainly caused by the integrated GPU when runnig OS at 16 GB.
Isn't this a countersense?

I was just guessing if with the fixes you proposed (wich as i understand are able to overcome some conflicts in the switch between the two GPUs, giving more stability), the Ram limit of this Macbook model could now be improved.
Might the substitution of the C9650 capacitor together with the exclusion of the Intel GPU be a fine solution? Any other idea?

Anyone interested in more technical information on expanding the Ram above 8 GB on these machines may read here:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/2763468?start=120&tstart=0

Many thanks for your attention
Hello!
I dont know about this, but, personaly, i think that this is impossible. Arrandale is Westmere microarchitecture, and IMC is limited to 8gb (8.192MB).
 
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