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simple

I was so happy to find this solution but could not get it to secure Erase my Corsair P256 SSD.

Step 1 hdparm -I /dev/sda gave me an error "Failed: Invalid Exchange". I tried the command several times, hoping that the first time error rule was the case but could not go any further.

# hdparm -I /dev/sda

/dev/sda:
HDIO_DRIVE_CMD(identify) failed: Invalid exchange
HDIO_GET_IDENTITY failed: Invalid argument

I did this with a USB enclosure with my SSD in it and no hard drive inside my MacBoook Pro. Booting the Gparted Live CD like in the instructions just fine.

Also plugged the SSD into the internal drive slot and could issue the hdparm -I /dev/sda but the drive is "frozen" like the writeup said.

Anyone see this? Please help.
just repeat the command "hdparm -I /dev/sda
" and it will work<;;;
 
it all depends on what purpose you are trying to achieve, i guess.

Simply looking for a good way to benchmark my SSD, to see if it's performance has degraded over 8 months usage.

XBench clearly is useless with SSDs.

Loa
 
Simply looking for a good way to benchmark my SSD, to see if it's performance has degraded over 8 months usage.

XBench clearly is useless with SSDs.

Just use AJA System test. Although it doesn't test 4K, the values you're getting for sustained transfers do the job very well do give you a statement about degradation.

What SSD do you have?
Sandforce and Intel drives don't need to be benched. They don't degrade noticeable.
 
Intel drives don't need to be benched. They don't degrade noticeable.

I use the SSD as boot volume, so the 4K tests are very important for me.

I have an Intel G2 80GB. I know they're not supposed to slow down, but it would be nice to verify that.

I haven't "noticed" any slowdown, but over 8 months, it could be gradual enough that it went undetected.

Loa
 
Simply looking for a good way to benchmark my SSD, to see if it's performance has degraded over 8 months usage.

XBench clearly is useless with SSDs.

Loa

clearly, its an overall system benchmark tool.

what about this (aja)? im struggling to remember one that nanofrog/Tesselator have quoted in previous times - it is the best one, stupid memory! :rolleyes:
 

Just don't use that recondition command expecting it to do that to your SSD's as discussed elsewhere here.

For the record, here are my thoughts on it... (pasted from another thread)

I wouldn't use diglloyd's recondition tool... I'm not sure what exactly it's doing but he says "The recondition command helps restore solid state drive performance by rewriting free space on the drive in very large chunks."

This is, in fact, the opposite of what you want to do to recondition an SSD. When all the nand blocks on a drive get full, which is what this method assures, drive performance starts to deteriorate because of the write amplification... writing just 8 bytes (for example) will require the reading and writing of a full 512K byte block of NAND.

Here's the correct process using the ATA command that all SSD drive controllers recognize:
https://ata.wiki.kernel.org/index.php/ATA_Secure_Erase

Unfortunately, this is not trivial to perform on a Mac so myself and others have found a few ways to do this successfully:
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/841182/

The key to the process is the issuing of the ATA command that instructs the drives controller to mark all NAND blocks as free. Which means that writing a small amount of data will no longer require the reading and writing of a full 512K block... thus performance returns to factory values.
 
I have a Macbook Pro and hopefully you all could help! What is the best way to do secure erase without taking the SSD OUt. Can I just install windows on a external and go that route?

Help?!?!
 
Im sorry im new to the SSD thing.. What do you mean? I can just repart the SSD install windwos on it and go that route?
yes, basicaly, use the OSX installation disc to reformat the drive - DO NOT "zero" out the drive or anything like that, because you will lose all performance that the drive gives you.

formatting the drive will then allow you to repartition to however you want.
 
yes, basicaly, use the OSX installation disc to reformat the drive - DO NOT "zero" out the drive or anything like that, because you will lose all performance that the drive gives you.

formatting the drive will then allow you to repartition to however you want.

Then just install windows on the drive? Im sorry this is kinda confusing!?
 
What brand of drive? The brand and generation makes a HUGE difference...

If your drive, as mentioned above, has the Sandforce controller, you just need to let your system idle when not in use (note--NOT sleeping it), as it has its own built in "Trim"-like software that will reclaim unused but written space when idle. Many people have said that you need to log out and leave your machine at the login page, but I have a Vertex2 and I haven't noticed any difference between doing that and just letting it sit.

For earlier OCZ drives (Indilinux controllers) there are firmware updates that will install a similar proprietary utility in the drive, but I believe they are OCZ only (it's called "Garbage Collection", I believe). The BEST source of knowledge on your SSD drive is the manufacturer's forums, it's become a tradition in the SSD world (much like the memory overclocking world) for users and even employees to offer advice regularly on fine-tuning SSDs.

I don't know about Intel drives; I did read that the WD ones have the Sandforce auto-TRIM feature. Also, if you have a DESTRUCTIVE firmware update (MUST be destructive), running that will return the drive to its original state, though it will also erase it completely.
 
What brand of drive? The brand and generation makes a HUGE difference...

If your drive, as mentioned above, has the Sandforce controller, you just need to let your system idle when not in use (note--NOT sleeping it), as it has its own built in "Trim"-like software that will reclaim unused but written space when idle. Many people have said that you need to log out and leave your machine at the login page, but I have a Vertex2 and I haven't noticed any difference between doing that and just letting it sit.

For earlier OCZ drives (Indilinux controllers) there are firmware updates that will install a similar proprietary utility in the drive, but I believe they are OCZ only (it's called "Garbage Collection", I believe). The BEST source of knowledge on your SSD drive is the manufacturer's forums, it's become a tradition in the SSD world (much like the memory overclocking world) for users and even employees to offer advice regularly on fine-tuning SSDs.

I don't know about Intel drives; I did read that the WD ones have the Sandforce auto-TRIM feature. Also, if you have a DESTRUCTIVE firmware update (MUST be destructive), running that will return the drive to its original state, though it will also erase it completely.

Sorry its Intel X-25 M G2 160GB
 
AFAIK if it's a Gen 2 then just don't worry about it; let your system idle every now and again and that should reclaim it (make sure you have the most current firmware, though).
 
Im sorry im new to the SSD thing.. What do you mean? I can just repart the SSD install windwos on it and go that route?

I'm afraid taking the SSD out is the only way you are going to get the drive "unfrozen" which is a firmware related issue, not an operating system problem. It may be a PITA but that's the only way. Booting to Windows isn't going to help with this aspect. All booting to Windows allows you to do is (possibly) run Intel's disk utility without burning the CD I mention in the first post... but it won't work unless you can unfreeze the drive to enable it to receive the secure erase command.
 
Thanks for the info! Thought I'd do a clean install and it seemed sensible to try and "reset" the drive first.

Worked fine on my 2008 Macbook Pro unibody, with Intel X25M G2 SSD.

Essentially I just followed Step 4 (the ATA reset command link) from a livecd boot of Ubuntu 10.04. To unfreeze the drive I simply closed the lid until the MBP was asleep and then reopened it. Sure enough it said "not frozen" when I issued the hdparm command after that, and away I went with the rest of the commands.

Took about 53 seconds on my 80GB. For those concerned about the security aspect, it sure as hell beats the old magnetic HDD method of running DBAN for a couple of days!

Can confirm that it worked, as I got the question mark on reboot and had to reinstall ;)
 
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