Keychron keyboard discussion

[curnalpanic]

I have the K3 (version 2) with RGB lights and the optical red switches. However I feel like the switches trigger very easily and I make accidental input all the time. I barely have to depress the key to make an input.

Even tried removing the tiny little spring inside the switches as someone suggested, but that didn't seem to make much difference for me.

 

[Chancha]

I have the K3 (version 2) with RGB lights and the optical red switches. However I feel like the switches trigger very easily and I make accidental input all the time. I barely have to depress the key to make an input.

Even tried removing the tiny little spring inside the switches as someone suggested, but that didn't seem to make much difference for me.

If preventing accidental press is a priority, you need to try tactile switches with heavier springs, especially those with early tactile bump. The initial resistance in the spring can help the key cap stay up even with moderate amount of weight on top, you may even be able to rest your fingers on it.

 

[transmaster]

I just ordered this set of Ducky Cherry profile caps to replace them.

 

[transmaster]

What you need to do is get a sample switch set. HippoKeys has just what you need.

 

[transmaster]

I have two Keychron wooden palm rests, but neither is the right size for My Q3 HE. This time, I decided to look elsewhere for a wooden palm rest and found this one on Amazon. The Wuorenm solid Walnut Wood Keyboard rest is much better than the Keychron. The TenKeyLess size is a perfect fit for the Q3. I think this palm rest is made in Nepal.

 

[xraydoc]

I have the K3 (version 2) with RGB lights and the optical red switches. However I feel like the switches trigger very easily and I make accidental input all the time. I barely have to depress the key to make an input.

Even tried removing the tiny little spring inside the switches as someone suggested, but that didn't seem to make much difference for me.

Unfortunately, there's not much you can do at this point other than replace the keyboard. If you've got optical switches, then you can only replace them with other optical switches and those are pretty much EOL. Sometimes Keychron has Brown or Blue optical switches available, which sound like they would be better for you, but you're pretty much limited to just those. You cannot use standard MX mechanical switches in an optical keyboard.

 

[xraydoc]

The ceramic keys are history. They are not secured by the switch and pop off. plus, as I look across the keyboard, they are uneven in how they are sitting on the switches. I am going back to plastic cherry profile keycaps.

That's a bummer. They're supposed to be nice, but I guess they have some quality control issues... or at least that's what some of the people on Reddit tend to say.
Good for me though. I'm now less tempted to buy a set.

 

[blufrog]

How are people dealing with the lack of function/globe key? I didn't realize how much I used it, and very seriously contemplating getting an Apple keyboard. 🥺. I was hoping to be able to use a mech keyboard, but for that not-so-minor issue.

 

[xraydoc]

How are people dealing with the lack of function/globe key? I didn't realize how much I used it, and very seriously contemplating getting an Apple keyboard. 🥺. I was hoping to be able to use a mech keyboard, but for that not-so-minor issue.

Can you be more specific as to what functionality you're missing? What do you use the Globe/Fn key for? If it's just pulling up the Emoji panel, that's easy to replicate. If it's for things like Fn-arrows for PgUp/PgDn/Home/End, that's also easy to replicate.

 

[transmaster]

Unfortunately, there's not much you can do at this point other than replace the keyboard. If you've got optical switches, then you can only replace them with other optical switches and those are pretty much EOL. Sometimes Keychron has Brown or Blue optical switches available, which sound like they would be better for you, but you're pretty much limited to just those. You cannot use standard MX mechanical switches in an optical keyboard.

The Q3 HE, only uses the HE magnetic switch and so far there are only 2 available at this time. I am very happy with what I have.

 

[Chancha]

Can you be more specific as to what functionality you're missing? What do you use the Globe/Fn key for? If it's just pulling up the Emoji panel, that's easy to replicate. If it's for things like Fn-arrows for PgUp/PgDn/Home/End, that's also easy to replicate.

Not him, Sequoia window tiling options user globe key as a modifier now. But those can be mapped to other keys in macOS with some work.

 

[xraydoc]

Not him, Sequoia window tiling options user globe key as a modifier now. But those can be mapped to other keys in macOS with some work.

Gotcha. One can just hover over the green bubble and see the windowing options, but yeah, there's where I suppose it's an issue if you're that facile with keyboard shortcuts.

For what it's worth, while I've not seen any such custom firmware for a Keychron, there is a custom firmware for some of the Nuphy keyboards that can send a Mac "Globe" key. But it's not a factory firmware option.

 

[xraydoc]

The Q3 HE, only uses the HE magnetic switch and so far there are only 2 available at this time. I am very happy with what I have.

Huh? I was responding to someone who said they used a K3 (which is a discontinued low-profile keyboard) with optical switches.

FYI, according to Keychron's website, there's three HE switches currently that will work on Keychron HE boards. Gateron dual-rail Dawn, Nebula and Aurora.

The Keychron HE models all come with Nebulas from the factory. I've got a K2HE Special Edition with them and they're nice but maybe a tad stiff towards the end of the keypress (40gf at the top and 60gf at the bottom-out).

I've got a set of Dawn switches (30-50gf) that should arrive tomorrow, weather permitting. They might be too light given the 30gf initial resistance, but decided to take a chance since I really like the way the Gateron Jade Pro HE switches feel (36gf±5gf) in my Nuphy Halo65HE. And unfortunately the Jade/Jade Pro switches are not compatible with the Keychron HE models. Why Keychron went with a different switch specification than most of the other brands like Wooting and Nuphy, I'm not sure. It's too bad because there's more choice with the other standard. But, if they are delivered despite the impending weather (or whenever they do arrive), I'll report back.

The Aurora switches are much stiffer, at 50-70gf.

And for anyone interested, the Nuphy Halo65HE is a remarkably good keyboard for just $110 with the Jade Pro switches (or $100 with the standard base Coral switches). It does have south-facing LEDs if gamerz RGB lighting is important to you (it is not to me), but otherwise it feels and sounds fantastic, build-quality is solid, has minimal key/stem wobble (a common complaint on some HE keyboards) and has good Mac-compatibility out of the box. And it'll work with any of the HE switches that the Wooting will work with. The Keychron K2HE and Q-HE keyboards have their advantages, too, but the Halo65HE is really quite a bargain, coming in at 1/2 the price of the Q1 HE.

I'm not a game player -- I just use my keyboards for office work, but never really cared for linear switches, especially lighter ones, because it was so easy to make adjacent-key typos by just brushing up against another key. The HE keyboards, however, like the Keychron K2HE and the Nuphy Halo65HE, because they have software-definable pre-travel, pretty much eliminate all that for me. I can set the trigger distance down to a deeper level, even on a per-key basis, so brushing neighboring keys won't result in accidental activation. It's really made me appreciate lighter linear switches for smooth, fatigue free typing without the frustration I used to have when using linear switches.

 

[transmaster]

FYI, according to Keychron's website, there's three HE switches currently that will work on Keychron HE boards. Gateron dual-rail Dawn, Nebula, and Aurora.

When I purchased my Q3, there were just two, the Nebula and the Aurora. I opted for the Nebula.

 

[xraydoc]

When I purchased my Q3, there were just two, the Nebula and the Aurora. I opted for the Nebula.

I wasn't aware they were giving an option insofar as switches originally. Currently, they include only Nebula from the factory. I do find it odd that they don't offer a choice of switches, but it is what it is.

 

[smirking]

I've got a set of Dawn switches (30-50gf) that should arrive tomorrow, weather permitting. They might be too light given the 30gf initial resistance, but decided to take a chance since I really like the way the Gateron Jade Pro HE switches feel (36gf±5gf) in my Nuphy Halo65HE.

OK, I now have a NuPhy 60HE with a full set of regular low profile Jade switches and Jade Pro switches. The initial force of the Jades are about 30g. The Jade Pros start around 40g.

I find the regular low profile Jades to be just a touch too light, especially when used with the flat keycaps that they came with. I swapped those out for a set of Cherry profile keycaps so I no longer have a low profile keyboard, but the keyboard is easier to type on and I don't make as many accidental keypresses.

The rebound force of the regular Jades were a little to light for me so I ordered a set of Jade Pros and now I'm Goldilox because the Jade Pros are just a touch heavier than I'd prefer. I make fewer mistakes on the Jade Pros, but it's more fatiguing to type on than the regulars. Something with a similar force curve but an initial force of 35g would have been perfect to me.

I'm not sure which switch I'll stick with. I'm going to try pairing the original flat keycaps with the Jade Pros to see if that helps.

Either way, I'm really enjoying this setup. It's just shy of perfect and it didn't break the bank.

 

[xraydoc]

I swapped those out for a set of Cherry profile keycaps so I no longer have a low profile keyboard, but the keyboard is easier to type on and I don't make as many accidental keypresses.

Generally, Cherry and taller keycaps don't do well on low-profile keyboards. They usually impact the plate before the switch is fully depressed, producing an unpleasant sensation and sound and often interfering with switch activation. Are the Cherry keycaps working OK for you on the Air60HE?

 

[smirking]

Are the Cherry keycaps working OK for you on the Air60HE?

I'm not sure if these are normal Cherry caps. They might be slightly modified because they came on a NiZ Plum 87 electrocapacitive keyboard that just happened to have the same circle stem mount as the low profile Jades. These caps never looked right on anything I've put them on, but they look quite at home on the Air60HE.

They work really well and I like the sound profile too, but I did have to slip some rubber rings on a few of the modifier keys. They work better than the DSA profile caps I also tried on them. The DSA's also felt good to type and were good for my accuracy, but were more likely to collide with the plate.

I was surprised that I liked the DSAs. I normally don't like flat profiles, but they worked very well for me on the Air60HE. I just liked the sound profile of my (probably modified) Cherry caps better.

 

[xraydoc]

I'm not sure if these are normal Cherry caps. They might be slightly modified because they came on a NiZ Plum 87 electrocapacitive keyboard that just happened to have the same circle stem mount as the low profile Jades. These caps never looked right on anything I've put them on, but they look quite at home on the Air60HE.

They work really well and I like the sound profile too, but I did have to slip some rubber rings on a few of the modifier keys. They work better than the DSA profile caps I also tried on them. The DSA's also felt good to type and were good for my accuracy, but were more likely to collide with the plate.

I was surprised that I liked the DSAs. I normally don't like flat profiles, but they worked very well for me on the Air60HE. I just liked the sound profile of my (probably modified) Cherry caps better.

Interesting. Yeah, don't know anything about these keycaps in particular, but they do look from the outside like normal Cherries. It's possible the stems are different in length. As long as they work, that's all that matters.

 

[smirking]

Interesting. Yeah, don't know anything about these keycaps in particular, but they do look from the outside like normal Cherries. It's possible the stems are different in length. As long as they work, that's all that matters.

Well, I did put the regular low profile keycaps back on to try and I can say as far as the Air60HE goes:

Air60HE with Low Profile HE Jade Pros

• Original Caps: Sound - Excellent / Typing: Above Average
• Cherry Caps (PBT) - Sound: Very Good / Typing: Very Good (slightly fatiguing)
• XDA Caps (PBT) - Sound: Very Good+ / Typing: Excellent

Air60HE With Low Profile HE Jade Regulars

• Original Caps - Sound: Above Average / Typing: Average
• Cherry Caps (PBT) - Sound: Good / Typing: Very Good
• XDA Caps (PBT) - Sound: Good / Typing: Good

My surprise conclusion is that XDA keycaps are really good with the Air60HE, especially with the Low Profile HE Jade Pros. I'm surprised I'm choosing the XDAs because I normally dislike uniform height keycaps. I love their look, but not their feel.

For me, the extra bit of height the XDAs give the keyboard makes it perfect as a portable on-the-laptop keyboard. I might feel differently if I were using this on a desk.

The only thing keeping the XDAs from being also excellent in the sound profile is that a few of the keys hit prematurely and need rubber O rings to smooth out the resonance.

 

[xraydoc]

The only thing keeping the XDAs from being also excellent in the sound profile is that a few of the keys hit prematurely and need rubber O rings to smooth out the resonance.

Did you have to recalibrate the keyboard after adding the O-rings to get the switches to register the top and bottom-out positions correctly?

 

[xraydoc]

I've got a set of Dawn switches (30-50gf) that should arrive tomorrow, weather permitting. They might be too light given the 30gf initial resistance, but decided to take a chance since I really like the way the Gateron Jade Pro HE switches feel (36gf±5gf) in my Nuphy Halo65HE. And unfortunately the Jade/Jade Pro switches are not compatible with the Keychron HE models. Why Keychron went with a different switch specification than most of the other brands like Wooting and Nuphy, I'm not sure. It's too bad because there's more choice with the other standard. But, if they are delivered despite the impending weather (or whenever they do arrive), I'll report back.

Just to update my post from a few days ago --

I finally got my Dawn switches. DHL delivery was delayed by three days because of the weather (thank you eastern seaboard snowstorm) but received them yesterday (Friday) and was able to install them this afternoon.

I'm actually quite pleased with them. They're bit lighter at the top of the press (30gf vs 40gf of the Nebulas) but towards the bottom-out they're more noticeably lighter (50gf vs 60gf by specs, but the Dawns definitely feel lighter than that at the bottom). It's not much of a difference on paper, but it's enough to make them less fatiguing to type on, especially since I almost always bottom-out the keys when I type -- and bottoming out at 60gf over and over again can get a little tiring. I left the modifiers, navigation column and the F-row on the stock Nebula switches for now, but I will likely swap those over as well. The switch weights are now much more like the Jade Pro HE switches I have in a different keyboard.

The sound is almost identical. The Dawns have perhaps a very slightly higher pitch, but the difference is essentially negligible. About 6 weeks ago, maybe more, I swapped out the stock Keychron keycaps for a set of GMK 2048 Extended Dark, which are really nice and I think look sharp on this keyboard. I prefer Cherry profile (GMK CYL) to Keychron's OSA for typing even though the OSAs do have a certain old-school flair. Plus, there's much more fun novelty keycaps with the GMK 2048 Extended set.

I had this keyboard on my work PC, but with the new switches, I think I may keep it on my Mac for a while.

An interesting thing about these magnetic switches -- since there's no electrical contact pins, it's possible to install them upside down. The K2 has north-facing LEDs, but I'm so used to installing switches on my south-facing keyboards that I put the first couple of switches in the wrong way, but they go in just fine. Caught myself before I put too many in that way. Not sure if they would have worked correctly rotated 180º from their expected orientation, but I'm guessing they would have (though of course the LEDs would have been completely blocked).

 

[smirking]

Did you have to recalibrate the keyboard after adding the O-rings to get the switches to register the top and bottom-out positions correctly?

I didn't have to re-calibrate, but it's because I've kept mine at the default 1.5mm actuation.

I have 1.5mm and 2.5mm rings on the keys that are hitting too hard. The 1.5mm rings will block the switch when it gets close to the 3mm point. The 2.5mm rings will begin rebounding around 2.8 or 2.9mm.

There seems to be around 1mm range of variance between different types of keys. The modifiers are the least predictable. For the modifiers with stabilizers, I have to put one ring per stabilizer to get it to be the way I want it.

 

[smirking]

Did you have to recalibrate the keyboard after adding the O-rings to get the switches to register the top and bottom-out positions correctly?

I hadn't realized how much the O ring was prematurely stopping the key travel until you asked about it. The interesting thing about having these HE switches is that the config tool lets you see the depth of travel so the effect that an O ring mod has is clear to see. It made me realize there may be some variance in my keycaps resulting in the problems I had with a few keys.

I decided to try and replace my problem keys instead of using an O ring mod. Swapping in unused arrow keys for them worked great! No more harsh sounds from premature collisions with the plate mount.

 

[xraydoc]

I hadn't realized how much the O ring was prematurely stopping the key travel until you asked about it. The interesting thing about having these HE switches is that the config tool lets you see the depth of travel so the effect that an O ring mod has is clear to see. It made me realize there may be some variance in my keycaps resulting in the problems I had with a few keys.

I decided to try and replace my problem keys instead of using an O ring mod. Swapping in unused arrow keys for them worked great! No more harsh sounds from premature collisions with the plate mount.

Hmmm. While that's a solution, I wouldn't be satisfied with random arrow keycaps here and there. Finding high quality XDA or DSA profile keycaps, however, could present its own challenges as most of the high-quality vendors produce mostly Cherry profile. I have a couple of very high quality KAM sets (uniform like XDA and DSA) but those aren't any lower in profile than Cherry keycaps, so probably not well suited to low-profile keyboards, either.