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!!! Update !!!

New problems :(

I have now ordered the last cable for my 970 GTX (Dual SATA --> 6-pin didn't work) and should get it soon.

I finally got HS HFS+ installed on one of my SSD's (optimal for bootcamp) and thought that I might as well "prepare" the computer by trying to make WIN 10 work to while waiting. Searched around and couldn't find a DVD in my house so tried to make a Bootable USB with WIN 10.

Had to make it on my iMac from an ISO file and all seemed good.

Formatted the "destination" SSD to FAT32 and booted up from the USB (pulled the other SSD out, like disguised in this thread). I could format my SSD and began installation of WIN 10 (I saw the bootable USB was named EFI BOOT which got my attention)

I now have WIN 10 installed and got the bootcamp drivers to work but...

I can't restart the MAC from either operating system with the attention to boot up to the other system - so the whole idea by having installed HS with HFS+ and so on is pretty useless right now. If I restart it won't boot to any of the two operating systems but it shows a black screen saying "No bootable device -- insert boot disk and press any key)

- I can of course boot into both systems if I hold "option" down on start-up

Besides that my wireless keyboard and mouse from apple work like 80%. The adjust brightness/volume don't really have any functions like scroll on the mouse doesn't work.

In regards to h9826790 from another thread: "I suspect those problem may be EFI mode related. I never install Windows in EFI mode, but only legacy mode, and most of them actually done via Bootcamp. And always use a DVD for installation, which also make the process very straight forward"

Do you guys think think that all these problems occur just because I installed from an USB and only with the "EFI BOOT" option available and NOT "Legacy" like when installing from DVD boot ? ? ?

Or did I completely misunderstand something along the way ? ? ?
 
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!!! Update !!!

New problems :(

I have now ordered the last cable for my 970 GTX (Dual SATA --> 6-pin didn't work) and should get it soon.

I finally got HS HFS+ installed on one of my SSD's (optimal for bootcamp) and thought that I might as well "prepare" the computer by trying to make WIN 10 work to while waiting. Searched around and couldn't find a DVD in my house so tried to make a Bootable USB with WIN 10.

Had to make it on my iMac from an ISO file and all seemed good.

Formatted the "destination" SSD to FAT32 and booted up from the USB (pulled the other SSD out, like disguised in this thread). I could format my SSD and began installation of WIN 10 (I saw the bootable USB was named EFI BOOT which got my attention)

I now have WIN 10 installed and got the bootcamp drivers to work but...

I can't restart the MAC from either operating system with the attention to boot up to the other system - so the whole idea by having installed HS with HFS+ and so on is pretty useless right now. If I restart it won't boot to any of the two operating systems but it shows a black screen saying "No bootable device -- insert boot disk and press any key)

- I can of course boot into both systems if I hold "option" down on start-up

Besides that my wireless keyboard and mouse from apple work like 80%. The adjust brightness/volume don't really have any functions like scroll on the mouse doesn't work.

In regards to h9826790 from another thread: "I suspect those problem may be EFI mode related. I never install Windows in EFI mode, but only legacy mode, and most of them actually done via Bootcamp. And always use a DVD for installation, which also make the process very straight forward"

Do you guys think think that all these problems occur just because I installed from an USB and only with the "EFI BOOT" option available and NOT "Legacy" like when installing from DVD boot ? ? ?

Or did I completely misunderstand something along the way ? ? ?

AFAIK, that boot drive selection in system preference won't work for EFI Windows. And USB installer is defaulted to install Windows in EFI mode.
 
So you installed WIN 10 in legacy mode from DVD since it works for you?

I spent hours and hours reading but came across this thread again now:

https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/problems-booting-windows-10-on-mac-pro-5-1.2056098/

Looks like I installed the newest bootcamp drivers (that I got from my iMac) and NOT BootCamp 5.1.5621 like people have suggested.

h9826790: In your opinion wouldn't this be the best way to try make everything work probably?

1) Install WIN 10 (legacy mode) from bootable DVD
2) Install BootCamp 5.1.5621 driver for optimal function of the computer (later drivers aren't optimal for Mac Pro 5,1)
3) Install Bootcamp 5.1.5769 driver (the latest) but only the bluetooth part - So my magic mouse and keyboard will work optimal
[doublepost=1525634273][/doublepost]https://discussions.apple.com/thread/8080187

if that is true I think we got the final answer on UEFI vs Legacy...

Since Mac Pro 5,1 is 2012 and before "legacy" will be the way to go whether you install WIN 10 from bootcamp or boot from a DVD (made from iso)
 
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h9826790: In your opinion wouldn't this be the best way to try make everything work probably?
1) Install WIN 10 (legacy mode) from bootable DVD
2) Install BootCamp 5.1.5621 driver for optimal function of the computer (later drivers aren't optimal for Mac Pro 5,1)
3) Install Bootcamp 5.1.5769 driver (the latest) but only the bluetooth part - So my magic mouse and keyboard will work optimal

Correct, this is exactly what I am using right now. Work flawlessly, and the setup process is very straight forward.

Lot's of people out there say we need EFI mode to use AHCI, otherwise, the SSD will be very slow, or no TRIM, etc. I can tell you that's not the fact.

I am using Legacy Windows 10 right now, AHCI is activated, TRIM also available.
擷取.JPG

For me, EFI mode may only means boot few seconds faster. There is no point to install Windows in EFI mode if there are all sorts of trouble. And give up legacy mode if that works flawlessly on cMP.
 
Correct, this is exactly what I am using right now. Work flawlessly, and the setup process is very straight forward.

Lot's of people out there say we need EFI mode to use AHCI, otherwise, the SSD will be very slow, or no TRIM, etc. I can tell you that's not the fact.

I am using Legacy Windows 10 right now, AHCI is activated, TRIM also available.
%E6%93%B7%E5%8F%96-jpg.760870

For me, EFI mode may only means boot few seconds faster. There is no point to install Windows in EFI mode if there are all sorts of trouble. And give up legacy mode if that works flawlessly on cMP.

Well that sounds great!

I will be back in a couple of days with hopefully positive results :)
 
!!! UPDATE !!!

I installed WIN 10 from a bootable DVD (iso file) and things went quit a lot smoother this time versus USB install before. This time it installed WIN 10 in LEGACY mode automatic didn't have the option to go UEFI anywhere in the proces of installation at least that I saw...

Used the described bootcamp drivers I posted earlier and now the WIN 10 installation is registered as "BOOTCAMP". It's now possible to switch between operating systems without errors.

So far so good...

!!! New questions !!!

My Magic Mouse 2 and magic keyboard do work but not 100%. Scroll on mouse does not work and all "F" buttons has no functions (brightness/volume control and so). There is no "delete" button on this keyboard no can't acces "task manager" this way either...

- Tried with a Apple wireless keyboard and all functions worked 100% so has to be the "bluetooth part" sadly. I even installed the new drivers from Bootcamp 5.1.5769 driver but didn't help at all...

Apple Software Update wants to install BOOTCAMP 6.1 but it can't.

- Guess "it" thinks that it's a Mac Pro 6.1? As far as I know BootCamp 5.1.5621 was the latest official driver for Mac Pro 5.1...

Anybody who thinks NVRAM and SMC reset will do anything positive for me? (saw it in another thread)

My last thought is that maybe WIN 10 is part of the problem because officially WIN 10 isn't support on Mac Pro 5.1 but only 6.1 (trashcan) maybe things work better if install WIN 8.1 ? ? ?
 
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!!! UPDATE !!!

I installed WIN 10 from a bootable DVD (iso file) and things went quit a lot smoother this time versus USB install before. This time it installed WIN 10 in LEGACY mode automatic didn't have the option to go UEFI anywhere in the proces of installation at least that I saw...

Used the described bootcamp drivers I posted earlier and now the WIN 10 installation is registered as "BOOTCAMP". It's now possible to switch between operating systems without errors.

So far so good...

!!! New questions !!!

My Magic Mouse 2 and magic keyboard do work but not 100%. Scroll on mouse does not work and all "F" buttons has no functions (brightness/volume control and so). There is no "delete" button on this keyboard no can't acces "task manager" this way either...

- Tried with a Apple wireless keyboard and all functions worked 100% so has to be the "bluetooth part" sadly. I even installed the new drivers from Bootcamp 5.1.5769 driver but didn't help at all...

Apple Software Update wants to install BOOTCAMP 6.1 but it can't.

- Guess "it" thinks that it's a Mac Pro 6.1? As far as I know BootCamp 5.1.5621 was the latest official driver for Mac Pro 5.1...

Anybody who thinks NVRAM and SMC reset will do anything positive for me? (saw it in another thread)

My last thought is that maybe WIN 10 is part of the problem because officially WIN 10 isn't support on Mac Pro 5.1 but only 6.1 (trashcan) maybe things work better if install WIN 8.1 ? ? ?

No sure how to fix that, I do not own Magic Mouse 2 or Magic keyboard. But you may try to install the AppleBluetoothInstaller64.exe from Bootcamp driver 5.1.5640.

Then manually select it in device manager.
 
From your answer I can conclude that NVRAM, SMC reset or win 8.1 installation won't do anything positive ? ? ?

Guess WIN 10 isn't the problem then even though "errors" like asking to install BOOTCAMP 6.1 happens and so on ? ? ?

Then manually select it in device manager.

Select what in device manager?

My mouse and keyboard are registered in bluetooth options so can't quit see what I can "select" in device manager...
 
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From your answer I can conclude that NVRAM, SMC reset or win 8.1 installation won't do anything positive ? ? ?

Guess WIN 10 isn't the problem then even though "errors" like asking to install BOOTCAMP 6.1 happens and so on ? ? ?



Select what in device manager?

My mouse and keyboard are registered in bluetooth options so can't quit see what I can "select" in device manager...

The BT adaptor (the boardcom card).
 
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Tried everything in WIN 10 in terms off BOOTCAMP drivers, installing manually, re-pairing ...

Just can't get scroll and "F" functions buttons on keyboard to work :(

I even deleted WIN 10 and installed WIN 8.1 in hopes of better compatibility but still no luck and "APPLE AUTO UPDATE" still suggests doing upgrade for BOOTCAMP 6.1 for some reason (which obviously can't be installed on a Mac Pro 5.1)

But I am really curious about what you people got drivers wise in WIN 10/8.1 for mouse/keyboard and bluetooth device. I kind of feel that my drivers somehow don't get updated probably by the BOOTCAMP installation.

At the moment my drivers look like this: First Bluetooth device, then mouse and then keyboard.

Please share yours !

IMG_4227.jpg IMG_7985.jpg IMG_3032.jpg
 
Tried everything in WIN 10 in terms off BOOTCAMP drivers, installing manually, re-pairing ...

Just can't get scroll and "F" functions buttons on keyboard to work :(

I even deleted WIN 10 and installed WIN 8.1 in hopes of better compatibility but still no luck and "APPLE AUTO UPDATE" still suggests doing upgrade for BOOTCAMP 6.1 for some reason (which obviously can't be installed on a Mac Pro 5.1)

But I am really curious about what you people got drivers wise in WIN 10/8.1 for mouse/keyboard and bluetooth device. I kind of feel that my drivers somehow don't get updated probably by the BOOTCAMP installation.

At the moment my drivers look like this: First Bluetooth device, then mouse and then keyboard.

Please share yours !

View attachment 761248 View attachment 761249 View attachment 761250

Just checked my drivers version and date are the same as yours. May be it's only good for magic mouse 1? And I am still using the original wired keyboard anyway. This always work reliably.

But you have a suggested update for bootcamp 6,1? I don't have that, Did you try? Just make a clone of the current Windows. Then try the update. If anything does wrong and cannot be reverted, restore from clone.

Also, the Magic Mouse 2 and Magic keyboard suppose only support BT 4.0, do you have this new wifi / BT card installed?
 
Just checked my drivers version and date are the same as yours. May be it's only good for magic mouse 1? And I am still using the original wired keyboard anyway. This always work reliably.

Yeah okay just strange to me why it shows these old drivers when we just installed drivers from 2014-2015...

But you have a suggested update for bootcamp 6,1? I don't have that, Did you try? Just make a clone of the current Windows. Then try the update. If anything does wrong and cannot be reverted, restore from clone.

Yup as you can see on the picture! It offered me Bootcamp WIFI Update 6.1, iCloud and iTunes. Just think it's weird if offers me this 6.1 update and as described before it can't be installed (already tried :))

IMG_0329.jpg

Also, the Magic Mouse 2 and Magic keyboard suppose only support BT 4.0, do you have this new wifi / BT card installed?

Kind of solved the problem. Lucky for me I had the older wireless keyboard and mouse from my iMac - generation 1 (when I bought it) in the closet.

I paired the older mouse and keyboard to the Mac Pro and it all worked. Scroll on mouse, adjustment of volume/brightness...

I think we can conclude that the Magic Keyboard and Magic Mouse 2 NEEDS at least bluetooth 4.0 to work. Which explains why it works on my iMac (got another pair of new mouse and keyboard).

The iMac has listed specs:

Internal AirPort Extreme 802.11a/b/g/n/ac
Gigabit Ethernet
Bluetooth 4.0

The weird thing though is that the Magic Keyboard and Magic Mouse 2 works perfect in OS X - seems it's only in windows it becomes a problem with the Mac Pro specs:

Airport Extreme 802.11a/b/g/n
2× Gigabit Ethernet
Bluetooth 2.1+EDR

I haven't upgraded to new WIFI/BT card because "problems" only showed recently when experimenting with WINDOWS.

The upgrade won't offer me much else since I don't use Hand-off, wallet and that other crap people tell will work when installing new WIFI/Bluetooth card. Plus the "ac" part of wifi won't do anything for my wireless anyways - so kind of an expensive upgrade for so little but ohhh well...

Its kind of the last upgrade I CAN make so maybe its time :)
[doublepost=1525934734][/doublepost]This is the cheapest/best All-In-One solution for my Mac Pro 5.1 right?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Ap..._trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&autorefresh=true
 
Have you tried this one ? https://www.trackpadmagic.com/magic-mouse/home
That worked for me.
As far as I know, Windows has a Problem with the features of the Magic Mouse 2 and the Keyboard even with the Bootcamp drivers.
I had the problem, that I could connect the MM2 via BT but the scrolling didn't work at all.
After installing the Trackpadmagic driver it works...
 
Have you tried this one ? https://www.trackpadmagic.com/magic-mouse/home
That worked for me.
As far as I know, Windows has a Problem with the features of the Magic Mouse 2 and the Keyboard even with the Bootcamp drivers.
I had the problem, that I could connect the MM2 via BT but the scrolling didn't work at all.
After installing the Trackpadmagic driver it works...

Thanks for the advice!

But I don't want third party programs if I can avoid it plus that won't fix the problems with my keyboard...

I have already ordered the WIFI/Bluetooth card which will offer a couple of upgrades in general and most likely fix my problems when enabling bluetooth 4.0 (others have reported scrolling working with that upgrade)

Crossing my fingers :)
 
Thanks for the advice!

But I don't want third party programs if I can avoid it plus that won't fix the problems with my keyboard...

I have already ordered the WIFI/Bluetooth card which will offer a couple of upgrades in general and most likely fix my problems when enabling bluetooth 4.0 (others have reported scrolling working with that upgrade)

Crossing my fingers :)

Okay, fair enough :)
But I hope you saw, that they also have a support for the Keyboard ;)
 
Hi,
I have a little problem with my mid 2012 Mac Pro.
I put in it a gtx1080 which is working alone (without an efi gpu) in osx high sierra. On boot camp that’s not as happy... it doesn’t work without an efi gpu in addition to the gtx1080. Without this efi gpu, win 10 refuses to boot...

My efi gpu need also a 6pin power thats why i want to remove it to have enough power for the gtx.

Can you help me?

Thanks
 
Hi,
I have a little problem with my mid 2012 Mac Pro.
I put in it a gtx1080 which is working alone (without an efi gpu) in osx high sierra. On boot camp that’s not as happy... it doesn’t work without an efi gpu in addition to the gtx1080. Without this efi gpu, win 10 refuses to boot...

My efi gpu need also a 6pin power thats why i want to remove it to have enough power for the gtx.

Can you help me?

Thanks

Shouldn’t be like this.

Which EFI card is it?

Can you change that card to “MS basic display adaptor” in device manager, then remove it?

Or can you boot into safe mode with just the 1080 installed?

I tried install Windows 10 in both legacy mode and EFI mode with GT120 + 1080Ti, it work with the latest Window 10 installation disc (downloaded from MS last week). But doesn’t work with the original Windows 10 installation disc (which I downloaded when Windows 10 just released).

And after installation, I set the GT120 to MS basic display adaptor, install the lastest Nvidia driver for the 1080Ti, then shutdown, remove the GT120. On the next boot, the 1080Ti works as expect.

If your EFI card is an AMD card, you may need to completely remove the AMD driver before you install the Nvidia driver.
 
Shouldn’t be like this.

Which EFI card is it?

Can you change that card to “MS basic display adaptor” in device manager, then remove it?

Or can you boot into safe mode with just the 1080 installed?

I tried install Windows 10 in both legacy mode and EFI mode with GT120 + 1080Ti, it work with the latest Window 10 installation disc (downloaded from MS last week). But doesn’t work with the original Windows 10 installation disc (which I downloaded when Windows 10 just released).

And after installation, I set the GT120 to MS basic display adaptor, install the lastest Nvidia driver for the 1080Ti, then shutdown, remove the GT120. On the next boot, the 1080Ti works as expect.

If your EFI card is an AMD card, you may need to completely remove the AMD driver before you install the Nvidia driver.
Thanks for the answer

It was a ATI 5770mac. It never booted well osx and windows. Just one and never the other... I bought a GT120 which will stay just for that because with this one, all is working (windows and osx) and it doesn't need additional power.

Now just on thing, I have a big lag when I try to move a window (finder or any app). I reinstall the driver but nothing.
 
Thanks for the answer

It was a ATI 5770mac. It never booted well osx and windows. Just one and never the other... I bought a GT120 which will stay just for that because with this one, all is working (windows and osx) and it doesn't need additional power.

Now just on thing, I have a big lag when I try to move a window (finder or any app). I reinstall the driver but nothing.

Your monitor is connected to the 1080 only?
 
What do you mean about reference card ? It’s a msi gtx1080.
Yes on the slot 1 for the gtx and slot3 for the gt120

The PCB identical to the Nvidia's Fonder Edition card is the reference design.

e.g. The 1080 reference PCB looks like this
image.png

If your MSI 1080 has more VRM, or more than a single 8pin put etc. Then it's not a reference card.

Which exact 1080 you are using now?

So far, some evidences point to non reference card may be an issue.
 
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