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MBP 1,1-10,2 Permanently Disable 2011 15"/17" MacBook Pro Dedicated GPU - gMux IC Bypass
- Thread starter dosdude1
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I have 2 questions:
- About the external display support. I have attached a usb to vga adapter, and its working fine. My problem is when i need to attach a second monitor. When a do that using another usb adapter, the video performance is very poor (maybe by the usb 2.0 bandwidth limit). There's any solution to use two external displays ( maybe a usb and a network display) that doesnt impact the video performance?
- About the battery button to control the brightness. Even ater double checked the conections, still doesnt work. The batetry level indicator works, but no brightness control. Any clue?
- About the external display support. I have attached a usb to vga adapter, and its working fine. My problem is when i need to attach a second monitor. When a do that using another usb adapter, the video performance is very poor (maybe by the usb 2.0 bandwidth limit). There's any solution to use two external displays ( maybe a usb and a network display) that doesnt impact the video performance?
- About the battery button to control the brightness. Even ater double checked the conections, still doesnt work. The batetry level indicator works, but no brightness control. Any clue?
I duno if you linked this for me. Thanks if you did.
I did a similar search and realized I was searching for just the logic board, duh, haha.
Id be looking for the whole 2012 mbp, A1286 I guess.
The board seems to sell for around the same price as the whole mbp..., no? Haha. I probably haven't looked enough yet.
Are these three lattice programmer tools the right device, are they the same as the one listed/linked on dosdude1's website?:
1. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000349745340.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.5be13c00DU9H75&mp=1
2. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1648220779.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.5be13c00DU9H75&mp=1
3. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32962783470.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.5be13c00DU9H75&mp=1
And what else do I/*might I* need for this?
-100pf capacitor (picofarad, right?). Would this kit do?: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073TW1XG1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AYI27JSX7SHMW&psc=1
-Wires/jumpers. I have some jumpers/wires from an arduino kit, will that do?
-DD linked this when I asked about a way to DIY some type of "pogo-pin connector": https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/x8CMvEG2
Does this kit have all the parts needed to make such a thing?
Thank you for any help. I need to get the stuff ordered
1. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000349745340.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.5be13c00DU9H75&mp=1
2. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1648220779.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.5be13c00DU9H75&mp=1
3. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32962783470.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.5be13c00DU9H75&mp=1
And what else do I/*might I* need for this?
-100pf capacitor (picofarad, right?). Would this kit do?: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073TW1XG1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AYI27JSX7SHMW&psc=1
-Wires/jumpers. I have some jumpers/wires from an arduino kit, will that do?
-DD linked this when I asked about a way to DIY some type of "pogo-pin connector": https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/x8CMvEG2
Does this kit have all the parts needed to make such a thing?
Thank you for any help. I need to get the stuff ordered
The Lattice branded programmer is what you need. The Xlinix ones won't work (however they potentially can be modified to). The jumper wires for the Arduino kit are perfect for connecting the programmer.Are these three lattice programmer tools the right device, are they the same as the one listed/linked on dosdude1's website?:
1. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000349745340.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.5be13c00DU9H75&mp=1
2. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1648220779.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.5be13c00DU9H75&mp=1
3. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32962783470.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.5be13c00DU9H75&mp=1
And what else do I/*might I* need for this?
-100pf capacitor (picofarad, right?). Would this kit do?: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073TW1XG1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AYI27JSX7SHMW&psc=1
-Wires/jumpers. I have some jumpers/wires from an arduino kit, will that do?
-DD linked this when I asked about a way to DIY some type of "pogo-pin connector": https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/x8CMvEG2
Does this kit have all the parts needed to make such a thing?
Thank you for any help. I need to get the stuff ordered
The pogo-pin connector link I sent would be for the board itself only. You'd need to buy the pogo pins and pin header, then solder them onto the board. The BOM with part numbers is listed in the Oshpark project.
Ok, gonna post this here as it's kinda related. I can delete if op would like.
My mbp gpu died while plugging in the adapter+cable I used for external display; things kinda went black and the computer shut off.
I attempted to get back in but, you know; grey screen, blue screen, only apple logo, no further, etc.
So, I removed my hdd caddy, then removed the original mac hdd I had in there, and placed it into an external drive enclosure. When I connect this to a windows 10 laptop, I get the "sound/chime" that a device is connected. I see the "safely remove hardware and eject media" icon in the taskbar area. But it's not visible in "file explorer" under devices and drives.
In control panel, hardware and sound, devices and printers, it shows a little white box/device and calls it "VLI product string", category: storage device, status: connected to usb 3.0.
Going into "properties", I can see in the hardware tab, it says "hitachi HTS727575A9E SCSI Disk Device" and below that "USB attached scsi (uas) mass storage device".
I can't see any of the files or access anything on the drive though.
I don't have the cable that came with the enclosure (a "UGREEN" model from amazon) but I'm using the one from my WD 3TB external HDD as it's the *same* cable..
Any idea how to remedy, or if I'll need a mac to "see" access it? Or maybe it just needs to be accessed by macos first? Perhaps due to the way the computer shutdown during the gpu failure issue?
I'm not sure, but I really want to get access to my files and everything from the HDD.
Thanks for any help.
My mbp gpu died while plugging in the adapter+cable I used for external display; things kinda went black and the computer shut off.
I attempted to get back in but, you know; grey screen, blue screen, only apple logo, no further, etc.
So, I removed my hdd caddy, then removed the original mac hdd I had in there, and placed it into an external drive enclosure. When I connect this to a windows 10 laptop, I get the "sound/chime" that a device is connected. I see the "safely remove hardware and eject media" icon in the taskbar area. But it's not visible in "file explorer" under devices and drives.
In control panel, hardware and sound, devices and printers, it shows a little white box/device and calls it "VLI product string", category: storage device, status: connected to usb 3.0.
Going into "properties", I can see in the hardware tab, it says "hitachi HTS727575A9E SCSI Disk Device" and below that "USB attached scsi (uas) mass storage device".
I can't see any of the files or access anything on the drive though.
I don't have the cable that came with the enclosure (a "UGREEN" model from amazon) but I'm using the one from my WD 3TB external HDD as it's the *same* cable..
Any idea how to remedy, or if I'll need a mac to "see" access it? Or maybe it just needs to be accessed by macos first? Perhaps due to the way the computer shutdown during the gpu failure issue?
I'm not sure, but I really want to get access to my files and everything from the HDD.
Thanks for any help.
Windows cannot natively read Mac OS Extended (and especially not APFS) formatted drives. A Mac will be required to read drive contents.
You can use MacDrive.
MacDrive - MacDrive
MacDrive 11 is the most powerful solution for accessing Mac disks, drives, and even RAID Volumes on Windows.
www.macdrive.com
Ill check it out if I can bring myself to sitting down at this pos acer windows laptop for another second.You can use MacDrive.
MacDrive - MacDrive
MacDrive 11 is the most powerful solution for accessing Mac disks, drives, and even RAID Volumes on Windows.
Thanks man.
sorry to pull this old post up, but I have tried this on a 2010 15, it worked until I cut power to the dedicated GPU. And now it just spin up and down power cycling.. Is there a way to cut dedicated GPU power properly?
Normally, that machine only suffers from a bad capacitor on one of the GPU VCORE power rails. I have a video about that here:
I would recommend restoring proper dGPU functionality and replacing the affected capacitor.
I have tried this already, it isnt the capacitor. The dGPU is indeed bad.
Is there a way to fix the power cycling after power down the dGPU?
It seems to me that would work as well. I've never actually done it on a 2010 myself though, so I can't tell you for sure. What I do know is that the gMux implementation is a bit different than on the 2011 and 2012 machines, so that could be the cause.
I did try to cross flash original gmux code between 2010 and 2011 on different machines and it actually worked so the gmux on 2010/2011 are interchange-able.
The hardwiring method that you shared works on 2010 but it stopped working as soon as I power down the dGPU by removing r8911, something is definitely sensing something is different.
However I could power down the dGPU by issuing outb command in grub after the machine is booted up but that is just troublesome.
Do you think maybe the SMC is doing more checking on the 2010?
The hardwiring method that you shared works on 2010 but it stopped working as soon as I power down the dGPU by removing r8911, something is definitely sensing something is different.
However I could power down the dGPU by issuing outb command in grub after the machine is booted up but that is just troublesome.
Do you think maybe the SMC is doing more checking on the 2010?
So I have tried several solutions on my MBP11,3. Tried
0xbb/gpu-switch: gpu-switch is an application that allows to switch between the graphic cards of dual-GPU Macbook Pro models (github.com)
tried
And ultimately tried:
codykrieger/gfxCardStatus: gfxCardStatus is an open-source menu bar application that keeps track of which graphics card your unibody, dual-GPU MacBook Pro is using at any given time, and allows you to switch between them on demand. (github.com)
The first 2 alone or in combination with OpenCore would produce black screen If I close the LID (or Sleep). The computer could be accessed through VNC or if I connect External display (HDMI) which of course turns the NVIDIA ON. But After NVIDIA is turned ON it will not switch to Intel's graphics until reboot. This was all performed in Big Sur.
The third option worked like a charm. I can switch to Intel whenever I want (except external display) and I can close the LID or sleep and still wake to Intel.
0xbb/gpu-switch: gpu-switch is an application that allows to switch between the graphic cards of dual-GPU Macbook Pro models (github.com)
tried
And ultimately tried:
codykrieger/gfxCardStatus: gfxCardStatus is an open-source menu bar application that keeps track of which graphics card your unibody, dual-GPU MacBook Pro is using at any given time, and allows you to switch between them on demand. (github.com)
The first 2 alone or in combination with OpenCore would produce black screen If I close the LID (or Sleep). The computer could be accessed through VNC or if I connect External display (HDMI) which of course turns the NVIDIA ON. But After NVIDIA is turned ON it will not switch to Intel's graphics until reboot. This was all performed in Big Sur.
The third option worked like a charm. I can switch to Intel whenever I want (except external display) and I can close the LID or sleep and still wake to Intel.
You mean that you can run Catalina or Mojave with accelerated graphics switching to Intel GPU?
Permanently disabling the dGPU seems like an extreme solution.
I've gotten great results (less heat, far less noise, slightly better battery life) by simply turning off Intel's Turbo Boost with this app: http://tbswitcher.rugarciap.com
Marco Arment offers strong arguments for this: https://marco.org/2020/01/13/macos-low-power-mode-redux
I've gotten great results (less heat, far less noise, slightly better battery life) by simply turning off Intel's Turbo Boost with this app: http://tbswitcher.rugarciap.com
Marco Arment offers strong arguments for this: https://marco.org/2020/01/13/macos-low-power-mode-redux
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