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Photo of the Day August 2017
- Thread starter Hughmac
- Start date
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Steeple of the Mt. Vernon Place United Methodist Church
Here's one of my favorite sunset pictures, I was just walking outside to go somewhere but just turned around and grabbed the camera instead. Comments are always appreciated I'm just learning I'm thinking it may make sense to crop out a bit on both sides to get rid of the glow below the trees on the left but I really like that cloud above it so I haven't done anything with it.
Nice photo
I'm no expert at post processing but in my opinion it would be easy to remove the patch of glow by using a clone tool. If your software doesn't have such a thing try spraying the area carefully the same colour as the ground beneath the offending tree.
Cheers
Hugh
Not a sunset...Comments always appreciated.
Santa Fe start of a journey by another scotsman, on Flickr
It's not off balance, it's off the rails!
I like it.
My last one for August then. A Grey Wagtail from Walsall. Again would have been better with the 200-500 but it was just a quick stop on the way to Ikea. It was pretty dark in this little creak, but I was able to get fairly close.
_DSC4873 by apple fanboy1, on Flickr
_DSC4873 by apple fanboy1, on Flickr
Thats a great idea, since it's black down there anyway it should work really well. Thanks I appreciate it!Nice photo
I'm no expert at post processing but in my opinion it would be easy to remove the patch of glow by using a clone tool. If your software doesn't have such a thing try spraying the area carefully the same colour as the ground beneath the offending tree.
Cheers
Hugh
Unloading the fish.....
M9 , TriElmar@35 , f11@1/500 ,ISO 200
M9 , TriElmar@35 , f11@1/500 ,ISO 200
Another moon shot. I liked the shadows on the craters tonight compared to my previous post
Sony A7R2, 100-400mm zoom @ 400mm, f/8, ISO 100, 1/80 sec. Tripod (obviously).
Some tips for taking shots of the moon:
400mm on full frame is about the minimum you need to capture surface details. Even then, surface details aren't perfectly sharp. @400mm you are going to have to crop *heavily* to fill the frame. Really need a telescope, but I've been impressed with this combo.
Because you are going to have to crop so heavily, it's pretty important to really nail the exposure. Use the lowest ISO (i.e. 100) to minimize noise, maximize dynamic range, maximize sharpness.
Use manual exposure as the majority of the frame is going to be black and any automatic exposure setting is going to horribly overexpose the moon. The above settings are a decent starting point. Using Live View is wonderful as it is easy to see what the sensor is seeing when you click the shutter. I varied the shutter speed in this series and found that 1/100 sec was also acceptable. 1/125 sec required upping the exposure in post which introduced noise that affected the final image. 1/60 sec was overexposed but not blown-out. But none of the pics at 1/60 sec were as sharp. Because of the heavy crop, manipulations you make in post to the image are going to be more obvious compared to standard pics. Try to get it right at the time of capture.
A tripod is mandatory as is some form of remote release or delay to prevent any motion. A remote release is optimal, but for this I used a 5 sec timer delay. Even tiny motion from moving the camera on the tripod at all will introduce blur. If you make an adjustment, wait a few seconds to let things settle down. Then trip the shutter remotely or on a timer. Possibly this image would have been even sharper had I used a remote release rather than the timer release.
Because of the massive cropping, even with a large megapixel body the final file is going to be small. I increased the file size on export from LR, but not sure if what I did is the optimal way to attempt to preserve detail while upscaling an image.
Sony A7R2, 100-400mm zoom @ 400mm, f/8, ISO 100, 1/80 sec. Tripod (obviously).
Some tips for taking shots of the moon:
400mm on full frame is about the minimum you need to capture surface details. Even then, surface details aren't perfectly sharp. @400mm you are going to have to crop *heavily* to fill the frame. Really need a telescope, but I've been impressed with this combo.
Because you are going to have to crop so heavily, it's pretty important to really nail the exposure. Use the lowest ISO (i.e. 100) to minimize noise, maximize dynamic range, maximize sharpness.
Use manual exposure as the majority of the frame is going to be black and any automatic exposure setting is going to horribly overexpose the moon. The above settings are a decent starting point. Using Live View is wonderful as it is easy to see what the sensor is seeing when you click the shutter. I varied the shutter speed in this series and found that 1/100 sec was also acceptable. 1/125 sec required upping the exposure in post which introduced noise that affected the final image. 1/60 sec was overexposed but not blown-out. But none of the pics at 1/60 sec were as sharp. Because of the heavy crop, manipulations you make in post to the image are going to be more obvious compared to standard pics. Try to get it right at the time of capture.
A tripod is mandatory as is some form of remote release or delay to prevent any motion. A remote release is optimal, but for this I used a 5 sec timer delay. Even tiny motion from moving the camera on the tripod at all will introduce blur. If you make an adjustment, wait a few seconds to let things settle down. Then trip the shutter remotely or on a timer. Possibly this image would have been even sharper had I used a remote release rather than the timer release.
Because of the massive cropping, even with a large megapixel body the final file is going to be small. I increased the file size on export from LR, but not sure if what I did is the optimal way to attempt to preserve detail while upscaling an image.
Good tips. I assume you are also shooting from somewhere in the country which is nice and dark?Another moon shot. I liked the shadows on the craters tonight compared to my previous post
Sony A7R2, 100-400mm zoom @ 400mm, f/8, ISO 100, 1/80 sec. Tripod (obviously).
Some tips for taking shots of the moon:
400mm on full frame is about the minimum you need to capture surface details. Even then, surface details aren't perfectly sharp. @400mm you are going to have to crop *heavily* to fill the frame. Really need a telescope, but I've been impressed with this combo.
Because you are going to have to crop so heavily, it's pretty important to really nail the exposure. Use the lowest ISO (i.e. 100) to minimize noise, maximize dynamic range, maximize sharpness.
Use manual exposure as the majority of the frame is going to be black and any automatic exposure setting is going to horribly overexpose the moon. The above settings are a decent starting point. Using Live View is wonderful as it is easy to see what the sensor is seeing when you click the shutter. I varied the shutter speed in this series and found that 1/100 sec was also acceptable. 1/125 sec required upping the exposure in post which introduced noise that affected the final image. 1/60 sec was overexposed but not blown-out. But none of the pics at 1/60 sec were as sharp. Because of the heavy crop, manipulations you make in post to the image are going to be more obvious compared to standard pics. Try to get it right at the time of capture.
A tripod is mandatory as is some form of remote release or delay to prevent any motion. A remote release is optimal, but for this I used a 5 sec timer delay. Even tiny motion from moving the camera on the tripod at all will introduce blur. If you make an adjustment, wait a few seconds to let things settle down. Then trip the shutter remotely or on a timer. Possibly this image would have been even sharper had I used a remote release rather than the timer release.
Because of the massive cropping, even with a large megapixel body the final file is going to be small. I increased the file size on export from LR, but not sure if what I did is the optimal way to attempt to preserve detail while upscaling an image.
Unfortunately, no. Outside of Providence, RI with lots of light pollution
Also with trees around my house that limit my views of the moon.
In which case I'm even more impressed with the IQ. Might have to have a go myself. Last time I tried I was disappointed with my 200-500mm efforts.Unfortunately, no. Outside of Providence, RI with lots of light pollution
(deleted- wrong month!)
Cheers
Hugh
Cheers
Hugh
Last edited:
Another moon shot. I liked the shadows on the craters tonight compared to my previous post
Sony A7R2, 100-400mm zoom @ 400mm, f/8, ISO 100, 1/80 sec. Tripod (obviously).
Some tips for taking shots of the moon:
400mm on full frame is about the minimum you need to capture surface details. Even then, surface details aren't perfectly sharp. @400mm you are going to have to crop *heavily* to fill the frame. Really need a telescope, but I've been impressed with this combo.
Because you are going to have to crop so heavily, it's pretty important to really nail the exposure. Use the lowest ISO (i.e. 100) to minimize noise, maximize dynamic range, maximize sharpness.
Use manual exposure as the majority of the frame is going to be black and any automatic exposure setting is going to horribly overexpose the moon. The above settings are a decent starting point. Using Live View is wonderful as it is easy to see what the sensor is seeing when you click the shutter. I varied the shutter speed in this series and found that 1/100 sec was also acceptable. 1/125 sec required upping the exposure in post which introduced noise that affected the final image. 1/60 sec was overexposed but not blown-out. But none of the pics at 1/60 sec were as sharp. Because of the heavy crop, manipulations you make in post to the image are going to be more obvious compared to standard pics. Try to get it right at the time of capture.
A tripod is mandatory as is some form of remote release or delay to prevent any motion. A remote release is optimal, but for this I used a 5 sec timer delay. Even tiny motion from moving the camera on the tripod at all will introduce blur. If you make an adjustment, wait a few seconds to let things settle down. Then trip the shutter remotely or on a timer. Possibly this image would have been even sharper had I used a remote release rather than the timer release.
Because of the massive cropping, even with a large megapixel body the final file is going to be small. I increased the file size on export from LR, but not sure if what I did is the optimal way to attempt to preserve detail while upscaling an image.
I want to try this with a telescope and my iPhone.
Its September already?? Thanks for waking me up!
I know right!!?!? August seems to have done a runner real quick this year!
Love the colours. I am wondering if a 2x1 crop would enhance the layout as IMHO it is a little bottom heavy at the moment.
Before I posted it I was thinking a little bit about a different crop, too. I just didn't get to the point of trying it. You want to take a shot at it?
Just a quick shot at it... using lo res image... hmm... dunno... thought the long leading edge of the bridge would suit a double wide format you know?