Photo of the Day - May 2009

[NStocks]

They actually look pretty good. My 2 cents:
- time the shot so that there is lots of natural light hitting the flower... a ring light will flatten the detail
- increase the depth of field by stopping down a bit
- wait for a lull in the breeze. When you are focussing this close, the slightest camera movement or object movement gets magnified
- I assume you are using a tripod and macro lens
- I also like to use an shutter release as removing my finger from the camera can cause a small amount of shake.

If you already have taken care of all the above, it's time to look at lenses that will provide sharper detail... ca-ching.

Are you doing any post processing? You can sharpen, define, add contrast and shadow detail.

I used a Samsung GX10 ( pentax K10D clone ), with a Pentax 50mm f/2.8 macro lens. The built in flash gave me a harsh look, even though I used a good tripod ( Giottos MTL9351B ) I still needed additional light...

The shot was taken at : f/8.0 at 1/60 ISO 100... I really thought it was a smaller aperture. ( when you say ' Increase the depth of field by stopping down a bit' does that mean stop down at f/11 to get more DOF... I've been doing this for over a year and still don't get what people mean by that )

I've thought of purchasing a shutter release too ( and recommendations ) but I'm saving for a car. ( I have my test tomorrow and if I pass I was going to ' treat' myself to a Epson R1900 A3 printer ! )

Thank you !

 

[Ja Di ksw]

I used a Samsung GX10 ( pentax K10D clone ), with a Pentax 50mm f/2.8 macro lens. The built in flash gave me a harsh look, even though I used a good tripod ( Giottos MTL9351B ) I still needed additional light...

The shot was taken at : f/8.0 at 1/60 ISO 100... I really thought it was a smaller aperture. ( when you say ' Increase the depth of field by stopping down a bit' does that mean stop down at f/11 to get more DOF... I've been doing this for over a year and still don't get what people mean by that )

I've thought of purchasing a shutter release too ( and recommendations ) but I'm saving for a car. ( I have my test tomorrow and if I pass I was going to ' treat' myself to a Epson R1900 A3 printer ! )

Thank you !

Yes, stopping down would mean adjusting your f-stops (such as from f8 to f11) to increase the depth of field. You're usually going to have to change the shutter speed, ISO, whatever to adjust for the loss of light, though.

For the shutter release, the cheap man's shutter release (so, for me ) is to set the camera on a 2 or 10 second timer. That way the movement from pushing the button is over. However, for something where you might have to worry about timing it can just shift the problem to that, but at least that's something you can work around.

 

[scottnj1966]

http://www.bigfloridacountry.com

http://www.bigfloridacountry.com

 

[otter]

 

[otter]

lake garden

I've been there...

 

[Phrasikleia]

A really wonderful shot. The effervescence makes a terrific counterpoint to the compression of the berries.

 

[mcavjame]

I used a Samsung GX10 ( pentax K10D clone ), with a Pentax 50mm f/2.8 macro lens. The built in flash gave me a harsh look, even though I used a good tripod ( Giottos MTL9351B ) I still needed additional light...

The shot was taken at : f/8.0 at 1/60 ISO 100... I really thought it was a smaller aperture. ( when you say ' Increase the depth of field by stopping down a bit' does that mean stop down at f/11 to get more DOF... I've been doing this for over a year and still don't get what people mean by that )

I've thought of purchasing a shutter release too ( and recommendations ) but I'm saving for a car. ( I have my test tomorrow and if I pass I was going to ' treat' myself to a Epson R1900 A3 printer ! )

Thank you !

An exercise I do with my students is to have them create a macro shot and step through all their stops in Aperture priority (set to "A" on most cameras). This has the benefit of seeing what your camera is capable of and making a connection between the aperture and depth of field. Depending on the angle, distance from the camera to the flower and distance from stamen to petals, f/8 might not be enough.

If you have a tripod, try a longer exposure to get the tonal range you want. Go full manual and bracket your shots. Remember, the meter on the camera is just a best guess of the average available light. Try a gray card and see what setting your camera provides and then bracket that +/- 1

How noisy is your camera at ISO 400?

I don't own professional gear, but take a look at Otter's post number 449. Based on the quality of all his work, I would guess he is using pro gear. Definitely a brain to pick for managing DOF.

As for the shutter release, I picked mine up on ebay for $12. A good investment.

 

[Doylem]

Can you post smaller pix. These are too big.... even for my 24in iMac...

The effervescence makes a terrific counterpoint to the compression of the berries.

I wish I'd written that...

 

[NStocks]

An exercise I do with my students is to have them create a macro shot and step through all their stops in Aperture priority (set to "A" on most cameras). This has the benefit of seeing what your camera is capable of and making a connection between the aperture and depth of field. Depending on the angle, distance from the camera to the flower and distance from stamen to petals, f/8 might not be enough.

If you have a tripod, try a longer exposure to get the tonal range you want. Go full manual and bracket your shots. Remember, the meter on the camera is just a best guess of the average available light. Try a gray card and see what setting your camera provides and then bracket that +/- 1

How noisy is your camera at ISO 400?

I don't own professional gear, but take a look at Otter's post number 449. Based on the quality of all his work, I would guess he is using pro gear. Definitely a brain to pick for managing DOF.

As for the shutter release, I picked mine up on ebay for $12. A good investment.

What is bracketing exactly ? I've just looked how to set it but not sure what it does. ( like with most features, if I don't use them I don't look... kinda lazy I guess )

I know I should have adjusted the ISO but I don't like to introduce noise even though it's not that bad at 400, again I'm to stuck in the same settings for every shot

Nstokcs

 

[Steamie]

Wonderful ! I spent an afternoon messing about with fruit in a glass a couple of weekends ago, never came up with anything as cool as this though.



"Turnberry Lighthouse"
For those interested in Golf, this is going to be a common sight for you while you are watching the 2009 Open Championship.

Camera: Pentax K10D
Exposure: 0.5
Aperture: f/6.3
Focal Length: 18 mm
ISO Speed: 100

 

[pdxflint]

Charlie

 

[mcavjame]

What is bracketing exactly ? I've just looked how to set it but not sure what it does. ( like with most features, if I don't use them I don't look... kinda lazy I guess )

I know I should have adjusted the ISO but I don't like to introduce noise even though it's not that bad at 400, again I'm to stuck in the same settings for every shot

Nstokcs

Many cameras have auto-bracketing as an option. I'm not sure if yours does.

Bracketing is just a concept to compensate for average metering. To manual bracket, do the following:
- meter and shoot the averaged shot
- use the exposure adjustment +1 and take this shot. This image will be more exposed than the first shot.
- use the exposure adjustment -1 and take this shot. This image will be less exposed than the first shot.

Depending on your lens, you may find that certain lenses need more or less of this compensation. Cameras will vary in the amount of compensation you can apply, offering varying degrees between 0 and +/- 1 and +/- 2.

Wiki has a good explanation of metering and DOF. This is a good starting point for any photographic concept.

 

[jmdfd415]

*clickable*

 

[panoz7]

 

[cosmokanga2]

Street Vender


A street vender in Mazatlan Mexico.

 

[Agurri]

 

[TheReef]

What is bracketing exactly ? I've just looked how to set it but not sure what it does. ( like with most features, if I don't use them I don't look... kinda lazy I guess )

I know I should have adjusted the ISO but I don't like to introduce noise even though it's not that bad at 400, again I'm to stuck in the same settings for every shot

Nstokcs

EDIT: misread question…
Hold down the button above menu and twist the rear thumb dial. This puts you in bracketing mode. Whilst still holding, you can turn the dial to give you choices of 3 or 5 images.
(Look on the top screen you should see 3 dots on the exposure meter.)

You can increase the ev steps (max ±2.0) then by once again holding the bracketing button, but this time rotating the front thumb wheel, the dots on the graph should space apart.

You can also use ev compensation in this mode as you would regularly, it shifts the groups of dots left or right.

I always have the camera in consecutive shooting mode, so all you need to do is hold down the shutter for 3 (or 5) shots and you will notice the shutter speed change for each one. For this to work well by not introducing shake from your hands, get the cable release (CS-205), alternatively you could make one yourself.



Remember to turn off bracketing when finished, otherwise next time you fast shoot, your images will be 0, +1, -1 (or whatever you have your order set too).

 

[AxisOfBeagles]

I sometimes bracket not only exposure, but also aperture, white balance, even filters. If you're anal enough, and have enough time and patience, you can bracket multiple variations of all of the above and thereby learn a great deal.

Many cameras have auto-bracketing as an option. I'm not sure if yours does.

Bracketing is just a concept to compensate for average metering. To manual bracket, do the following:
- meter and shoot the averaged shot
- use the exposure adjustment +1 and take this shot. This image will be more exposed than the first shot.
- use the exposure adjustment -1 and take this shot. This image will be less exposed than the first shot.

Depending on your lens, you may find that certain lenses need more or less of this compensation. Cameras will vary in the amount of compensation you can apply, offering varying degrees between 0 and +/- 1 and +/- 2.

Wiki has a good explanation of metering and DOF. This is a good starting point for any photographic concept.

 

[LittleCanonKid]

"Turnberry Lighthouse"
For those interested in Golf, this is going to be a common sight for you while you are watching the 2009 Open Championship.

Camera: Pentax K10D
Exposure: 0.5
Aperture: f/6.3
Focal Length: 18 mm
ISO Speed: 100

Great shots otter and Steamie. Both of those would make plenty of money if they were sold. Steamie, you sure caught the exact right moment for the sky!

 

[MacLadybug]

Charlie is very handsome... great photo.

 

[Doylem]

What is bracketing exactly ?

I tend to bracket on manual mode. Once I've picked what seems to be the appropriate aperture and shutter speed, I often take a shot either side of these values. I'm not very good at picking the 'correct' exposure from the screen on the back of the camera, so I wait till I can see the pix on the iMac before deleting the versions that don't quite work.

Lovely shot, steamie. Love the subtle shades. The lighthouse is leaning... but the horizon is straight... so I guess the builder was at fault, not the photographer...

 

[mcavjame]

Gorgeous light here. Love it.

 

[otter]

A really wonderful shot. The effervescence makes a terrific counterpoint to the compression of the berries.

Wonderful ! I spent an afternoon messing about with fruit in a glass a couple of weekends ago, never came up with anything as cool as this though.

Great shots otter and Steamie. Both of those would make plenty of money if they were sold. Steamie, you sure caught the exact right moment for the sky!

Thanks everyone.

I don't own professional gear, but take a look at Otter's post number 449. Based on the quality of all his work, I would guess he is using pro gear. Definitely a brain to pick for managing DOF.

I do have what would probably be considered some pro lenses, but the camera is 'just' a Canon 40D. Most of what I've been posting lately have been shot with the 100mm f2.8 macro. As far as picking my brain, I don't know if that's a good place to go or not. I can't always figure out what's going on there myself. Really, I'm happy to try and answer specific questions but I think everyone else here seems to be doing a pretty good job of explaining photographic concepts.

 

[Plymouthbreezer]

Another graduation shot:

EXIF:

 

[Educ8r]

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