Nice! Love the looks, sounds like it's pretty fun to drive. Good call on the family consideration, there's always time later for something less family friendly
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The Car Thread ... !
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Nice! Love the looks, sounds like it's pretty fun to drive. Good call on the family consideration, there's always time later for something less family friendly
There was a button on the bottom of the rearview mirror that I was sure was for the garage door, but it turns out it is an on/off switch for the auto dimming feature (who would ever turn it off?). That said, VW does offer a really sexy frameless auto-dimming rearview mirror with homelink as an accessory, but I'm not keen on dropping the front edge of the headliner to install it.
Nice! Love the looks, sounds like it's pretty fun to drive. Good call on the family consideration, there's always time later for something less family friendly
Thanks, it's definitely the driver's option in the segment. I told my wife, I said, "Hey lady, look I'm trading the GT not because I want to but because I think it's the right long term decision, and I want another GT someday before they go electric" and she said A-OK so I'm going to hold her to it.
Well that's a bit embarrassing
Wow
Hell yes. I just built one on the Porsche site
Well that's a bit embarrassing
Because it shows I'm not pushing it hard enough?
My commute is mostly highway so that helps hide the times I push it( I am keeping it below 4000 RPM per break in). But still she is a blast to bring to 3000 RPM+ and then let off the gas and hear the crackle and pop as it revs down.
Funny you mention breaking in the engine. I haven't done much of a job breaking in the A4, but I get way more torque at lower RPMs than my TSX got. So for me, I have just let the car in Comfort mode and that mostly keeps the revs under 3400Because it shows I'm not pushing it hard enough?
My commute is mostly highway so that helps hide the times I push it( I am keeping it below 4000 RPM per break in). But still she is a blast to bring to 3000 RPM+ and then let off the gas and hear the crackle and pop as it revs down.
Did some car browsing this weekend. Took a six hour test drive with a RRS SVR. Very exciting SUV. Words I never imagined I'd ever use in the same sentence. Probably more exciting when you play the odds of when it'll break down after driving off the lot. Also had a lone hour tester with an AMG GT. Dealer had their S out on a test drive. Didn't care. Fun ride, but also very different to drive at first. Great cars. Downside of the AMG GT was that it had some deep scratched on the side rear and rear end. Likely the result from some dumb-ass caressing the car's rear end with their ring hand or dumb-ass kids. With all the cars airbags changed out, I can breathe with relief at not having my head cut in half randomly. Is our resident BMW owner safe, though? Unfortunately, it looks like got some water spray on the car and it wasn't from a treated line. So there's mineral deposits on the side of my car. Looks like a weekend wash and clay bar is in order.
Having a few minor initial quality niggles with the Tiguan. Completely in love with the car otherwise though.
-Ratcheting mechanism in adjustable armrest broke on day 2, armrest won't stay up in raised positions
-Discovered that what looked like a dirt mark on driver's side interior B-pillar trim is actually a stress mark in the plastic accompanied by a bulge - something behind the plastic isn't installed right and it's pushing out on the plastic
Have an appointment bright and early at 6:30 AM Wednesday to get these looked at.
Have one other issue, would like some opinions on what this looks like. At the base of the driver's side A-pillar where it meets the hood, I have a little tiny bit of what looks like bubbling. The A-pillar is on the right, hood is the panel on the left and you can see the base of the driver's side of the windshield here:
Passenger side doesn't have this. However if you open the hood and look deeper into the A-Pillar (towards the driver's door), deep in there you can see what looks like some bubbly type of insulation or spray adhesive of some sort? It's hard to see here, but the blurry thing in the foreground is the hood hinge and the shiny/washed out metal up top is the bubbly part of the A-pillar. You can see the bubbly stuff back there, passenger side has this deep in the A-pillar also, definitely intentional:
The bubbly stuff on the A-pillar is almost too neat/clean/uniform to be corrosion, and may be overspray from the rest of that stuff in the A-pillar? I don't think it's seam sealer, as there is no seam or metal folded over on itself here on the A-pillar. I've dealt with aluminum corrosion due to iron particle contamination at the factory, which I know can happen quick, but the A-pillar is steel and the car was just built in February, so corrosion seems unlikely? Opinions on what this might be are welcome.
-Ratcheting mechanism in adjustable armrest broke on day 2, armrest won't stay up in raised positions
-Discovered that what looked like a dirt mark on driver's side interior B-pillar trim is actually a stress mark in the plastic accompanied by a bulge - something behind the plastic isn't installed right and it's pushing out on the plastic
Have an appointment bright and early at 6:30 AM Wednesday to get these looked at.
Have one other issue, would like some opinions on what this looks like. At the base of the driver's side A-pillar where it meets the hood, I have a little tiny bit of what looks like bubbling. The A-pillar is on the right, hood is the panel on the left and you can see the base of the driver's side of the windshield here:
Passenger side doesn't have this. However if you open the hood and look deeper into the A-Pillar (towards the driver's door), deep in there you can see what looks like some bubbly type of insulation or spray adhesive of some sort? It's hard to see here, but the blurry thing in the foreground is the hood hinge and the shiny/washed out metal up top is the bubbly part of the A-pillar. You can see the bubbly stuff back there, passenger side has this deep in the A-pillar also, definitely intentional:
The bubbly stuff on the A-pillar is almost too neat/clean/uniform to be corrosion, and may be overspray from the rest of that stuff in the A-pillar? I don't think it's seam sealer, as there is no seam or metal folded over on itself here on the A-pillar. I've dealt with aluminum corrosion due to iron particle contamination at the factory, which I know can happen quick, but the A-pillar is steel and the car was just built in February, so corrosion seems unlikely? Opinions on what this might be are welcome.
Wow 6hrs with an SVR. That's quite the generous test drive. One could rack up a bunch of mileage in that time. I recall when my father bought his RRS the test drive lasted 10min (and my dad's good friend owns the dealer) and the salesman scolded him for driving too fast. RR Sports are great SUVs, excellent handling for what they are. My dad's is a 2012, so last generation, I hear the new ones are even better. Granted, I don't think the newer ones have quite the same Land Rover vibe as the older ones. I resent the fact they have 4 sizes of practically the same design car simply scaled up (Evoque, Velar, Sport, Original... 6 of you count the 2, 4 door, cabrio forms of the Evo). (8 if you include the similarly styled Disco series, 9 if you also count the Ford Explorer, designed by the same guy who did the Evoque concept that has served as the design template for the lineup). They all look way to similar. Talk about the most convoluted SUV lineup... which will be even more convoluted once JLR adds their expected Evo and RRS-derived SUVs along the F-Pace... (12)
The new Defender should be coming out soon. Depending on the final product, likely to be an abomination and complete insult to the Defender/Series lineage, may make things even more convoluted.
Yeah, to me, it looks like a spray compound (no idea its engineered purpose) that got on the A-pillar, then got painted. Maybe the sprayer ran low and it foamed up, didn't spray smooth, who knows what kind of things happen on a line with automation/robotics.
Well, the good news is that despite the ham-fisted person who last put the head on my car, I was still able to get it off without too much difficulty. I elected to use a battery impact rather than a 2' breaker on the idea that the "impacts" would be gentler on the studs than my leaning on them.
Still, though, torque specs are there for a reason.
I spent the evening cleaning up the top deck of the block. I now just need to cut valve reliefs in each of the bores and I should be good to go to drop the new head back on.
Fortunately, having had the engine out last fall made removing stuff like the exhaust manifold a lot easier since I was only dealing with 6 months of corrosion and not 45 years . With any luck, I'll at least be able to start the car tomorrow even though it's going to take some effort to get the timing and carbs dialed in with the higher compression.
Still, though, torque specs are there for a reason.
I spent the evening cleaning up the top deck of the block. I now just need to cut valve reliefs in each of the bores and I should be good to go to drop the new head back on.
Fortunately, having had the engine out last fall made removing stuff like the exhaust manifold a lot easier since I was only dealing with 6 months of corrosion and not 45 years
. With any luck, I'll at least be able to start the car tomorrow even though it's going to take some effort to get the timing and carbs dialed in with the higher compression.Swung by two different body shops this morning, both of them felt it was just stuff on the metal that got painted over. One had no concerns at all, the other had nearly no concerns but said may as well document it with the dealer just in case there's some pinhole or something under there that we can't see that could cause a problem later, but he still didn't think it ever would.
So I'll bring it up to my dealer and just make a note and move on, and just keep an eye on it. Doesn't seem like it's going to be an issue. I also did look at other Tiguans on a lot and out of about 20, 2 others had a similar issue in the same spot.
Did I ever tell you about the time the Jeep dealer did a brake job on my old Grand Cherokee? They overtightened the lug nuts and shortly thereafter (25miles?) the lug nuts sheared off and the wheel feel off the car while driving down the Mass Pike, at night, in the rain. Luckily a strange noise erupted prompting me to get in the right lane and slow down to maybe 45-50 before the last lug sheared. The dealer kindly paid for all the repair work which included a new wheel, complete front brakes, alignment, and I believe wheel hub.
Similarly I got a flat one time and called AAA, I would have changed it myself but it was snowing and I was on the highway. The AAA guy of course used a pneumatic to put on the spare, and of course stripped one of the lugs which became quite an issue when the regular wheel went back on.
I think using a breaker bar on the heads is smart. I'm not so concerned about pnuematic wrenches taking off my wheels... that's the difficult part. But using one to put wheels back on drives me crazy. It's almost like I should keep a torque wrench in "the boot" and when it comes time for the wheels to go back on, tell the tire guy I'll handle it.
Ari, I go one step further-I DO keep a torque wrench in the car with the correct socket on it, along with my battery powered impact gun. If I were to have a flat, it makes the process quick since I can use the impact to spin the nuts off, use it again to get them started, and then go to final torque with the torque wrench.
Same ... it's also there in case some situation escalates
Speaking of, I need some aftermarket lugs, the factory ones are _terrible_.
Well if AU was the person actually buying the Equinox, I would suspect it would be trolling, but it looks like it is his moms car.
Speaking of initial quality issues....
Apparently a common issue with the Camaro with mixed results of getting truly fixed with a replacement headliner. They have to remove the front windshield in order to replace it too. Debating if I want to get it replaced ASAP or wait a bit. So far leaning towards getting it replaced when I hit 1500 miles( the official break in period) when I take it in for the first oil change and rear differential fluid change. Currently at 560 miles with the car.
In news of car cleaning products though..... The wheel cleaner product( called brake buster) and a hydrophobic spray( bead maker) works freaking fantastic. Brake buster requires light scrubbing to get the dirt/brake dust off, but does a great job cleaning the wheels and the bead maker causes water to bead right up and slide off.
And speaking of torque wrenches, anyone recommend a good one that will do 140 lb.?
No, he's trolling you.Well if AU was the person actually buying the Equinox, I would suspect it would be trolling, but it looks like it is his moms car.
As for a torque wrench S.K. is a great brand, good middle of the road option. American made. It will probably run you almost $300. I assume you want a 1/2" drive?
You can spend $100 on a craftsmen and get a lifetime warranty, but there stuff is made in China now and is probably junk. For something like a torque wrench accuracy ergo quality I find is pretty important.
You can also buy them used and save a lot of money. Most high end tools have a lifetime warranty so if it breaks you're generally covered. Snap on, Mac, Proto, are all great brands. I have a 1/2" drive and small 3/8" (great for engine work i.e. Valve covers), both Proto brand.
Yeah, I've got a Snap-on, USA stamped, 1/2" drive, 50-250, still works like it was new.
Also an older Craftsman, when they were still made in the USA, just as old, 3/8", also in great shape (can't recommend Craftsman anymore ... <sad_face>I've had quite a few vehicles, including several high performance cars, a few of which saw extreme track duty (10x the duress you'll ever see on the street), and I never done a short term rear diff fluid change and never experienced any issues.
Debating on if I should get that done too, but it's done to prevent another common issue with the Camaro where the clutches seem to stick causing a groaning noise to come from the diff in cold temps when doing the first 2-4 turns. A fluid change seems to get rid of the noise. With the temps being warm, I am not getting any groaning noise. A lot of Camaro owners seem to get the fluid change at 1500 miles in hopes of preventing the issue.