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Yeah, I've got a Snap-on, USA stamped, 1/2" drive, 50-250, still works like it was new. :) Also an older Craftsman, when they were still made in the USA, just as old, 3/8", also in great shape (can't recommend Craftsman anymore ... <sad_face>

Snap on is nice but you definitely pay a premium. I imagine a torque wrench costs $500-600+?
 
Snap on is nice but you definitely pay a premium. I imagine a torque wrench costs $500-600+?


I got it like 15 years ago, a good buddy of mine worked at a dealer and owned a tuning shop, let me purchase some tools through his Snap-On rep, it was under $300, I want to say even closer to $250. It was like died-and-gone-to-tool-heaven if I happen to be there when the Snap-on guy came buy :D

Speaking of tools (to borrow Quag's segue motif ...), a couple of guys in a BMW were all "racey" with me last night, it was turning from a 25MPH road into a 35MPH section of town, traffic, generally some police presence, they wound up doing a Ricer-Fly-By - I wound up laughing at them and giving them a little salute :p

I was ready for them if they needed to meet the torque wrench :D
[doublepost=1495815291][/doublepost]... and it looks like there's a GP in the planning stages for headers, that's definitely my next mod, with a followup tune, I should be a solid 500+ HP (510-520-ish), lots of additional power under the curve, will compliment both a "max effort" bolt on NA build, or some FI later this year :)
 
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Speaking of tools (to borrow Quag's segue motif ...), a couple of guys in a BMW were all "racey" with me last night, it was turning from a 25MPH road into a 35MPH section of town, traffic, generally some police presence, they wound up doing a Ricer-Fly-By - I wound up laughing at them and giving them a little salute :p

I was ready for them if they needed to meet the torque wrench :D

Had a riced out Subaru WRX STi do that to me 2 weeks ago in a 35 MPH limit and I was already doing 45 MPH. He passed me going at least 60 MPH kicked up dirt on the road and put 3 small tiny dents in the Camaro.... :( Asswipe..... His buddy in a GTI was tailgating me and when I went into the turning lane to turn right, blew past me as well.
 
Had a riced out Subaru WRX STi do that to me 2 weeks ago in a 35 MPH limit and I was already doing 45 MPH. He passed me going at least 60 MPH kicked up dirt on the road and put 3 small tiny dents in the Camaro.... :( Asswipe..... His buddy in a GTI was tailgating me and when I went into the turning lane to turn right, blew past me as well.
I had a Mustang GT driver throw trash at my car when starting from a stop light.

Too bad he didn't have to turn left.
 
I had a Mustang GT driver throw trash at my car when starting from a stop light.

Hahaha, WTF?

Was this guy driving?

iJTi9Tw-.png
 
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I had a Mustang GT driver throw trash at my car when starting from a stop light.

Too bad he didn't have to turn left.

I just don't get people. I understand most people don't see cars as we do. But why intentionally( or negligently) damage someones else car and act confused if/when confronted about it? Even if a car is just an appliance to you, would you want someone to just slam their door into your car? I assume not so why do it to others?

Then again people drop their $600-$900 phones and don't care so why care about a $30K car?
 
I just don't get people. I understand most people don't see cars as we do. But why intentionally( or negligently) damage someones else car and act confused if/when confronted about it? Even if a car is just an appliance to you, would you want someone to just slam their door into your car? I assume not so why do it to others?

Then again people drop their $600-$900 phones and don't care so why care about a $30K car?

People suck, that's why.
 
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Well if AU was the person actually buying the Equinox, I would suspect it would be trolling, but it looks like it is his moms car. :p

Speaking of initial quality issues....

VUmtD9g.jpg


Apparently a common issue with the Camaro with mixed results of getting truly fixed with a replacement headliner. They have to remove the front windshield in order to replace it too. Debating if I want to get it replaced ASAP or wait a bit. So far leaning towards getting it replaced when I hit 1500 miles( the official break in period) when I take it in for the first oil change and rear differential fluid change. Currently at 560 miles with the car.

In news of car cleaning products though..... The wheel cleaner product( called brake buster) and a hydrophobic spray( bead maker) works freaking fantastic. Brake buster requires light scrubbing to get the dirt/brake dust off, but does a great job cleaning the wheels and the bead maker causes water to bead right up and slide off. :)

And speaking of torque wrenches, anyone recommend a good one that will do 140 lb.?

Getting that fixed is a tough call. The fact they need to remove the windshield and there isn't even a fuarantee of it getting fixed right is almost enough formme to say no way jose.

I did get my B-pillar trim and armrest replaced today, dealer did a great job - whole center console had to come out which was freaky but everything went back together nice and tight and no new squeaks and rattlesdeveloped which is always the concern with interior trim repairs. Also documented the little paint flaw with the dealer. Now the car is good to go, will detail it next week and throw up some pics.
 
So, the MKZ has been treating me well, despite missing two cylinders and driving the wrong wheels.

In any case, my grandfather was never great on maintenance(beyond changing the oil) and my dad just hasn't driven it a lot.

So, I found myself with two factory tires(Michelin "Energy") and two low-end Goodyears. The Goodyears were bought in Williamsburg, KY after my mom hit a pothole on Jellico Mountain in Tennessee. My dad had planned to get four tires sometime after that, so just stuck two cheap ones on the front, but that was it.

The factory tires on the rear were terrible to the point that I felt unsafe driving on them. 30K is a reasonable life for factory tires anyway, and these had bad visible dry-rot. I weighed some options, and finally decided to just bit the bullet and drop $1K on a set of Primacy MXM4s. I've always really liked the tires.

In any case, I've always thought that money spent on good tires is not money wasted. It's been a while since I've had MXM4s, and I'd forgotten just how smooth and quiet they are. It's also nice to not chirp the tires if I get just a bit heavy on the gas(one of the things that's always annoyed me about front wheel drive in general).

Unfortunately, now I've found a slight pulsing in the brakes that I think the tires were masking before. Again, at 30K, it's about time for the factory pads to go, and it wouldn't surprise me if my grandfather managed some pad transfer driving in the mountains that caused the front rotors to go about a bit out of flat. The pads are getting thin, although I should be okay for another 1-2K. So, in the next few weeks I'll toss some good ceramic pads on the front(I'm still hurting a bit from the tires). The rotors don't FEEL terribly out of flat, so I should be good with turning a little bit off of them. Granted when NAPA premium rotors are $45 each and turning is $15 each, just dropping on a new set is tempting. I'm still proud of the in-spec 150K front rotors on the LS, though, so part of me is tempted to turn them. There's also the fact that I've also bought new rotors that I had to have turned out of the box-a freshly turned good quality rotor can often be better than a new one in my experience.

While we're at it, I don't really know what's going on with the MG, but I had to order a custom set of pushrods for it. With the new head on, I'm out of adjustment on the rockers and can't get any compression as all the valves are staying part of the way open. I'm wondering if my rocker shaft has been modified. I have a spare sitting here that I'm going to drop on, although actually using it will require using a pillar from my other rocker shaft(different oil gallery placement).
 
So, the MKZ has been treating me well, despite missing two cylinders and driving the wrong wheels.

In any case, my grandfather was never great on maintenance(beyond changing the oil) and my dad just hasn't driven it a lot.

So, I found myself with two factory tires(Michelin "Energy") and two low-end Goodyears. The Goodyears were bought in Williamsburg, KY after my mom hit a pothole on Jellico Mountain in Tennessee. My dad had planned to get four tires sometime after that, so just stuck two cheap ones on the front, but that was it.

The factory tires on the rear were terrible to the point that I felt unsafe driving on them. 30K is a reasonable life for factory tires anyway, and these had bad visible dry-rot. I weighed some options, and finally decided to just bit the bullet and drop $1K on a set of Primacy MXM4s. I've always really liked the tires.

In any case, I've always thought that money spent on good tires is not money wasted. It's been a while since I've had MXM4s, and I'd forgotten just how smooth and quiet they are. It's also nice to not chirp the tires if I get just a bit heavy on the gas(one of the things that's always annoyed me about front wheel drive in general).

Unfortunately, now I've found a slight pulsing in the brakes that I think the tires were masking before. Again, at 30K, it's about time for the factory pads to go, and it wouldn't surprise me if my grandfather managed some pad transfer driving in the mountains that caused the front rotors to go about a bit out of flat. The pads are getting thin, although I should be okay for another 1-2K. So, in the next few weeks I'll toss some good ceramic pads on the front(I'm still hurting a bit from the tires). The rotors don't FEEL terribly out of flat, so I should be good with turning a little bit off of them. Granted when NAPA premium rotors are $45 each and turning is $15 each, just dropping on a new set is tempting. I'm still proud of the in-spec 150K front rotors on the LS, though, so part of me is tempted to turn them. There's also the fact that I've also bought new rotors that I had to have turned out of the box-a freshly turned good quality rotor can often be better than a new one in my experience.

While we're at it, I don't really know what's going on with the MG, but I had to order a custom set of pushrods for it. With the new head on, I'm out of adjustment on the rockers and can't get any compression as all the valves are staying part of the way open. I'm wondering if my rocker shaft has been modified. I have a spare sitting here that I'm going to drop on, although actually using it will require using a pillar from my other rocker shaft(different oil gallery placement).

You seem to be on a spree of bad luck lately.
 
Wow 6hrs with an SVR. That's quite the generous test drive. One could rack up a bunch of mileage in that time.
It was a favor. They were responsible for a few sales to my SiL and her husband over the years, and used up whatever good will I had. I barely put 30 miles on it due to traffic and only performing daily tasks. Great SUV, but the tiny faults here and there ruin it, apart from its sketchy reliability being a JLR vehicle. The faults are more niggles I have with the vehicle rather than it being a universally known fault.
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Sigh. The trolling never stops.
I figured he was trolling, but it's always difficult to tell with him. Is he as sarcastic in person as he is on here?
 
It was a favor. They were responsible for a few sales to my SiL and her husband over the years, and used up whatever good will I had. I barely put 30 miles on it due to traffic and only performing daily tasks. Great SUV, but the tiny faults here and there ruin it, apart from its sketchy reliability being a JLR vehicle. The faults are more niggles I have with the vehicle rather than it being a universally known fault.
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I figured he was trolling, but it's always difficult to tell with him. Is he as sarcastic in person as he is on here?

I can't speak for the latest generation Ranges, but my dad's 2012 RRS has held up surprisingly well. A few electrical niggles and standard maintenance but that's about it. It does like to chew through tires, but it's quite a hefty vehicle. My family has owned several Rovers of the years and the RRS is wayyy better in terms of reliability than the P38, Discos, and RR Classic. Is it Lexus quality, no, but at least it spends more time on the road than in the shop which can't be said for the P38 he owned. Nothing like buying a $65,000 Range Rover (in 2001) and spending most of your time with a Freelander POS loaner.

Yes, Autounion is rather sarcastic IRL. He is also quite the mouth breather.
 
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I can't speak for the latest generation Ranges, but my dad's 2012 RRS has held up surprisingly well. A few electrical niggles and standard maintenance but that's about it. It does like to chew through tires, but it's quite a hefty vehicle. My family has owned several Rovers of the years and the RRS is wayyy better in terms of reliability than the P38, Discos, and RR Classic. Is it Lexus quality, no, but at least it spends more time on the road than in the shop which can't be said for the P38 he owned. Nothing like buying a $65,000 Range Rover (in 2001) and spending most of your time with a Freelander POS loaner.

Yes, Autounion is rather sarcastic IRL. He is also quite the mouth breather.
Interesting. Yes, tire wear is going to be an issue with any full size SUV. I had no idea your father was an RRS owner. You must have said it before but I never caught it. There's a lot left to be desired with Euro SUVs, but they're far better than their domestic counterparts if luxury and performance are your main criteria, aside from space, that is.

Have you tried sedating him when he gets talkative?
 
Interesting. Yes, tire wear is going to be an issue with any full size SUV. I had no idea your father was an RRS owner. You must have said it before but I never caught it. There's a lot left to be desired with Euro SUVs, but they're far better than their domestic counterparts if luxury and performance are your main criteria, aside from space, that is.

Have you tried sedating him when he gets talkative?

Yes, 2012 RRS HSE Lux w/HD pack (rear locking diff). 5.0 NA V8. Ipanema Gold on brown leather- not exactly my preferred exterior color but it could be worse. It was a demo model with several thousand miles on it but he got a good deal on it. Overall it's a solid option for an SUV IMO. The trunk it a bit small, a few quirky ergonomics, gas mileage is atrocious, infotainment system isn't + has never been great, and the repairs/service is heinously expensive.

It has over 100k at this point. The jaunts from CT to Manhatten racks up miles quickly. My father took a new position at a new company, so now he's driving between NYC and Boston (he got an apartment here :rolleyes: ), which will probably add on even more mileage. It may be time to trade her in. But she keeps on kicking. As far as I know it's still running the original air suspension components which is fantastic considering how the P38 was constantly needing the EAS serviced.

As much as I want to inject a 10mg bolus haloperidol right into his jugular sometimes, I fear the sedation may depress his respiration too much.
 
Yes, 2012 RRS HSE Lux w/HD pack (rear locking diff). 5.0 NA V8. Ipanema Gold on brown leather- not exactly my preferred exterior color but it could be worse. It was a demo model with several thousand miles on it but he got a good deal on it. Overall it's a solid option for an SUV IMO. The trunk it a bit small, a few quirky ergonomics, gas mileage is atrocious, infotainment system isn't + has never been great, and the repairs/service is heinously expensive.

It has over 100k at this point. The jaunts from CT to Manhatten racks up miles quickly. My father took a new position at a new company, so now he's driving between NYC and Boston (he got an apartment here :rolleyes: ), which will probably add on even more mileage. It may be time to trade her in. But she keeps on kicking. As far as I know it's still running the original air suspension components which is fantastic considering how the P38 was constantly needing the EAS serviced.

As much as I want to inject a 10mg bolus haloperidol right into his jugular sometimes, I fear the sedation may depress his respiration too much.
Interesting. Is the ipanema gold anything like the silvery blue LR do, except in a light silver gold tone? I had to look it up in Google Images to see, and it's not a bad color. Boring combination, but not a bad one. I think for someone like your father who doesn't need the hauling space but prefers to sit in something luxurious and at a higher ride height, especially the way east coasters drive, it's a great option. Plus, it's livelier than most SUVs in its class or otherwise. By the end of my test period, the exhaust became annoying. I was also driving with the window down, so perhaps that's why. I'd be interested to know the condition of his suspension considering the bad road quality there in most places.

I wouldn't bother with that stuff. 3-4 diphenhydramine tablets dissolved into sweetened tea or coffee will hide the bitterness very well. Within about 25 minutes he should quiet down a little as the drug takes effect, and ten minutes after that he should experience sleepiness, heavy eyes and his thought process should slow down. Of course, chances are he won't accept anything that he didn't make or open himself from now on when he's in your presence. :p

This is my preferred method of taking the above drug (and one recommended to me by my GP) when I'm ill or severely under the weather. The taste of the tablets, including the EC ones, is disgusting and I can taste it for hours. In tea or coffee, I can barely taste it and it seems to work much faster. Smoother transition into a sleepy lull and none of the weird after effects in the morning or whenever you wake up IF you wake up before the drug is mostly evacuated from your system. 4 tablets can keep me more or less asleep, even if I wake up a few times for water, for around 12-14 hours.
 
Interesting. Is the ipanema gold anything like the silvery blue LR do, except in a light silver gold tone? I had to look it up in Google Images to see, and it's not a bad color. Boring combination, but not a bad one. I think for someone like your father who doesn't need the hauling space but prefers to sit in something luxurious and at a higher ride height, especially the way east coasters drive, it's a great option. Plus, it's livelier than most SUVs in its class or otherwise. By the end of my test period, the exhaust became annoying. I was also driving with the window down, so perhaps that's why. I'd be interested to know the condition of his suspension considering the bad road quality there in most places.

I wouldn't bother with that stuff. 3-4 diphenhydramine tablets dissolved into sweetened tea or coffee will hide the bitterness very well. Within about 25 minutes he should quiet down a little as the drug takes effect, and ten minutes after that he should experience sleepiness, heavy eyes and his thought process should slow down. Of course, chances are he won't accept anything that he didn't make or open himself from now on when he's in your presence. :p

This is my preferred method of taking the above drug (and one recommended to me by my GP) when I'm ill or severely under the weather. The taste of the tablets, including the EC ones, is disgusting and I can taste it for hours. In tea or coffee, I can barely taste it and it seems to work much faster. Smoother transition into a sleepy lull and none of the weird after effects in the morning or whenever you wake up IF you wake up before the drug is mostly evacuated from your system. 4 tablets can keep me more or less asleep, even if I wake up a few times for water, for around 12-14 hours.

As far as tan cars go in the world, Ipnema gold is probably on the better end of the spectrum. The brown leather isn't too common in that generation RRS, but seems to frequently be paired with that exterior color.

The compressor, air shocks, valveblock, and I believe all the sensors are all original. On the P38 it was a revolving door of replacing those parts. I know he did have work done on the bushings.

The exhaust on the 2nd generation RRS are awful, the first generation was more tuned for being quiet. Wayyyy too much noise going on, especially on the Supercharged modes. The things sound like a 1970's corvette or something and the soccer moms and dads look ridiculous with their car roaring away from a stop.

I've never heard anyone complain about the taste of diphenhydramine tablets? Maybe try the liquid filled capsules? Or regular capsules? They also have some ODT (orally desintigrating tablets) products out there. EC= enteric coated? I've never ever seen enteric coated diphenhydramine- do you just mean a tablet with a coating versus a soft pressed tablet? There are some very foul tasting drugs out there- first in mind is Atovaquone aka Mepron, used in the Tx/prevention of Toxoplasmosis and a few other things. It looks like school bus yellow acrylic paint (it's a liquid) and smells (and reportedly tastes) awful.

I never liked Benadryl as a sleep aid, it last too long and has a horrid hangover effect. Trazadone tends to have better timing and works in a similar fashion, though originally designed as an (very bad and impractical) antidepressant. It often tastes really bad, especially when made by cheap Indian companies that surely must be breaking regulation with that amount of frilation (powder created by pills rubbing together)... so much pill residue to stick to your tongue.
 
So a buddy of mine getting married this week asked if I could drive his soon to be wife to the wedding venue as she doesn't have much in the way of family to do it. Honoured, I of course agreed. The son of a gun then told me he'd arrange for me to have a Porsche Cayenne for the day to do it. Kind of psyched, first time behind the wheel something that expensive.
 
So a buddy of mine getting married this week asked if I could drive his soon to be wife to the wedding venue as she doesn't have much in the way of family to do it. Honoured, I of course agreed. The son of a gun then told me he'd arrange for me to have a Porsche Cayenne for the day to do it. Kind of psyched, first time behind the wheel something that expensive.
Very cool!
 
So, I did a thing yesterday:

34647087586_50d9350293_b.jpg


34647086126_eea59cb844_b.jpg


This wasn't a lightly made or whimsical decision. My wife and I own 3 coupes, and with a kiddo planned for a couple years from now, and her Beetle paid off, we figured we want to keep the Beetle as long as possible but we will still need a family hauler. So we figured it might be best to get something sooner than later and get it paid down as far as possible before we have a kid. What we were originally planning to do was do this, but then also get my wife a replacement for the Beetle when the kid arrived (the thinking being that we didn't want to be on the front end of two car loans with a new kid). But with how easy the Tiguan is for my wife to drive, we might not even do that - might just keep the Beetle as long as possible even after having a kid and just switch off who drives what depending on who has the kid, at least until the Tiguan is paid off also. So taking a long term view of future finances here with this decision.

I know there's a new Tiguan on the horizon, I've seen it, and I know it has double the warranty. It's nice, but I'm sure there will be teething issues and it's going to be a lot bigger since we are getting the long wheelbase version only. We like the current Tiguan, as old as it is, for its size. So we decided to pull the trigger on a top of the line SEL for me and I traded in the Mustang which was the best car I've ever owned, bar none.

The Tiguan stickered for $37,660, I got a discount of $5,828, meaning I paid $31,832. 15.5% off, so not too bad in a month with bad rebates. They gave me what I wanted for my 5.0 without any back and forth - $22,000 and I kept my Nokian snow tires since they will fit on the Tiguan as they are the same size (meaty 255s on this thing!), so that's like $1500 more saved there since those tires were expensive as hell and only have 4k miles on them. Since money is cheap I decided to pull out the positive equity in my Mustang, and walked away with a check for north of $5,500 that I can do something else with, which is more than I thought I'd be able to walk away with. Throughout the process Inver Grove VW in MN was great and I encountered zero BS from anyone. Price of the Tiguan was good, trade was what I said I wanted with no arguing, and pulling out positive equity was no problem. One thing that was nice about the dealer was they told me since I had DNR license plates on my Mustang that I could actually transfer them to the new car, which I did not expect to be able to do in MN (standard plates cannot be transferred, I didn't know any plates could be transferred at all and I don't think most people know that either). I had just re-upped registration in February, so that saved $500 or so. Only downside is the car looks used since it has real plates already instead of paper tags and a temp permit in the window, lol. Car drives fantastic.

Likes:

-Handling and chassis response
-Size
-Feature content
-Fit and finish
-Good overall packaging for the interior size
-40/20/40 rear seat
-Fender stereo is fantastic once you really dial it in and head unit is great
-Adaptive headlights are really cool and less gimmicky than I thought

Dislikes:

-No homelink (WTF?) - I was sure that was what the button under the mirror was for but it's just the auto-dimming on/off switch
-Can't do voice commands to navigate my iPod on USB, have to use menus via head unit touchscreen (WTF?)
-Would be nice if the front passenger seat could fold flat like the manual ones can on lower trims but alas, I'll sacrifice that for the 12 way power passenger seat instead
-Spongy gas pedal, will need to get used to
-Halogen fogs/no LED tails

I still have some things that I need to set up like my wife's memory settings as well as getting the passenger side mirror to dip when in reverse, but for the most part I have things set the way I want them. Really happy with it, and while it is old, it really doesn't feel that old once you are inside surrounded by all the creature comforts. It still looks and feels good in the flesh, despite looking old as hell in pictures, particularly the interior.

Congrats! My sister has the Tiguan, and I enjoy riding in it! Does it have the panoramic sunroof?
 
In news of car cleaning products though..... The wheel cleaner product( called brake buster) and a hydrophobic spray( bead maker) works freaking fantastic. Brake buster requires light scrubbing to get the dirt/brake dust off, but does a great job cleaning the wheels and the bead maker causes water to bead right up and slide off. :)
Sonax makes a very good wheel cleaner. Has a compound in it that works like Iron X to pull contaminants out. Use a wheel specific semi stiff nylon brush. Don't forget another brush, square or circular, to scrub your tire wall.

Whether your car costs 20K, 50K or 100K+, taking care of it mechanically and making it look her best is incredibly rewarding.
 
Sonax makes a very good wheel cleaner. Has a compound in it that works like Iron X to pull contaminants out. Use a wheel specific semi stiff nylon brush. Don't forget another brush, square or circular, to scrub your tire wall.

Whether your car costs 20K, 50K or 100K+, taking care of it mechanically and making it look her best is incredibly rewarding.

I am happy with the Brake Buster's performance. Plus it is $24 for a gallon of it.

I use this brush for my wheels.

DI-Brushes-EZ-Detail-Brush-Mini-Size_273_2_lw_6158.jpg


But yes it is a bit of work to wash the Camaro pretty much every week and wax it at least once a month, but it is completely worth it after the results. It looks amazing when clean. :)
 
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Interesting. It's made by P&S except that's not a company I've read nor heard about. Is it American or foreign? Really bad brake dust comes off easily with a very diluted solution of Simple Green and water. I use the Simple Green Crystal, which is industrial grade. I use 1 oz to 18 oz of water in a bottle. Spray on, lightly agitate and spray off with water. 1 minute per wheel. And then I follow with my traditional sprays and cleaners. Ideally, you'll want to learn how to clay your car and probably invest some time and money into more gear unless you'd be willing to spend anywhere from $300-1200 every other year to have the car brought back to "new."

I read about a 991.1 GT3 RS owner who spent about $8,000 on a full interior and exterior detail on a lightly used RS he bought about 500 miles from his house the other day. A lot of the cost is the quality of products you use, the expertise, the time taken, plus the RS received several coats of various nano and particulate coatings that require hot lamps to cure. It's like a very good synthetic wax on steroids. Also very pricey. Then there's quality trim dressings that cost a lot, too, but last anywhere from 8 months to several years.

That brush is actually a really good brush. I use it on my GL's large wheels. Good news is that there are a lot of quality kits out there with quality products that come with them. If you don't want to get stuff a la carte, you can get a kit. There's a few other brushes I could recommend that'll make interior and exterior cleaning a cinch for you, if you want.

Edit: Looks like P&S is a reseller of pads and hardware, but also makes stuff for mass car washes, not specialists. Interesting. I'll have to look at some of their products and ask around. As far as the RS goes, I'm sure @AutoUnion39 would know what I'm talking about since he follows Porsche stuff closely and would have heard about this.
 
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