You didn't have time to stop at a gas station, throw some water on it, and wipe it off?
Is there someone you can ask to clean it off? Family, friend, coworker?
Got a tip for us?
Let us know
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The Car Thread ... !
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You didn't have time to stop at a gas station, throw some water on it, and wipe it off?
Is there someone you can ask to clean it off? Family, friend, coworker?
Assuming he flies commercial, I don't think his employer wants to pull a United of trying to calm down pissed off customers.
Also, have you picked out a car yet?
Do you have a solution suggestion?
Dad is away on business as well until at least next week.
Darn. You are in a pickle. If it's going to stay on until Friday the earliest, I would use something fairly weak since you're not stripping wax or polish dust. Find yourself a 28-32 oz bottle, clean. Pour 5-6 ounces of 50% IPA and the rest clean water, doesn't have to be fancy, RO water is fine. If you can't find that strength of IPA, the regular old 90% stuff at 2 ounces plus 30 oz of water will be fine. Assuming you can't find a bottle that size, you'll need to work on the math yourself to figure out how much you'll need. In addition, and because that stuff is going to be crusty to hell and back, you're going to need something strong to penetrate and strip it. This goes against my usual recommendations to everyone, but find yourself a bottle of Dawn Platinum. It needs to be the Platinum, you can get the regular stuff or the refill pump liquid (it's more viscous). Pour a tablespoon or two into the bottle and shake it up. Dishwashing liquid is the worst for car paint because it strips wax and oils, but Dawn Platinum has two types of enzymes; one eats at proteins and the other eats lipids. I've been unfortunately a few times in the past to get big rig exhaust soot all over my cars. This stuff sans alcohol will melt away that soot with a spray after presoaking. I've never found a car soap or spray act that fast and that good without needing reapplication.
This is what it'll look like. They're sold at just about every grocery store. You can use regular Dawn, too, but you'll need a lot because it doesn't contain the enzymes that this does.
For the actual scrubbing of the area, use your wash&wax combo liquid or whatever you use. Make it very potent and gently scrub the area with a clean sponge that you'll be throwing out later or use for your tires later on. I'd advise against using it on your paint again. You could if you managed to shave off the surfaces with a band saw. Go very slow, go gentle. You won't need a lot of pressure. We're trying to gently cleanse the area. Pretend you're uncovering an artifact and you want to be very gentle so as not to disturb it too much. Work from the top portion to the bottom. Making sure to keep the main blotch area wet with the solution to keep everything hydrated. You'll achieve this by working from top to bottom. Work the edges too until you get to the main middle area.
Here's the guide I've been using for my IPA solutions for years now.
https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...ow-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html
I was buying my own IPA solution before this. Read it. Memorize it. Print it out. Cherish it. Once you're done and everything is gone. Give your car a nice normal wash using your regular sponge or mitt, and then rewax the car. I use less than the suggested amount for the IPA. You don't need much. Even a third strength will get the job done.
Couldn't he just blast it with a jet wash? I'd just get my Kartcher out and it would be gone in two minutes.Darn. You are in a pickle. If it's going to stay on until Friday the earliest, I would use something fairly weak since you're not stripping wax or polish dust. Find yourself a 28-32 oz bottle, clean. Pour 5-6 ounces of 50% IPA and the rest clean water, doesn't have to be fancy, RO water is fine. If you can't find that strength of IPA, the regular old 90% stuff at 2 ounces plus 30 oz of water will be fine. Assuming you can't find a bottle that size, you'll need to work on the math yourself to figure out how much you'll need. In addition, and because that stuff is going to be crusty to hell and back, you're going to need something strong to penetrate and strip it. This goes against my usual recommendations to everyone, but find yourself a bottle of Dawn Platinum. It needs to be the Platinum, you can get the regular stuff or the refill pump liquid (it's more viscous). Pour a tablespoon or two into the bottle and shake it up. Dishwashing liquid is the worst for car paint because it strips wax and oils, but Dawn Platinum has two types of enzymes; one eats at proteins and the other eats lipids. I've been unfortunately a few times in the past to get big rig exhaust soot all over my cars. This stuff sans alcohol will melt away that soot with a spray after presoaking. I've never found a car soap or spray act that fast and that good without needing reapplication.
This is what it'll look like. They're sold at just about every grocery store. You can use regular Dawn, too, but you'll need a lot because it doesn't contain the enzymes that this does.
For the actual scrubbing of the area, use your wash&wax combo liquid or whatever you use. Make it very potent and gently scrub the area with a clean sponge that you'll be throwing out later or use for your tires later on. I'd advise against using it on your paint again. You could if you managed to shave off the surfaces with a band saw. Go very slow, go gentle. You won't need a lot of pressure. We're trying to gently cleanse the area. Pretend you're uncovering an artifact and you want to be very gentle so as not to disturb it too much. Work from the top portion to the bottom. Making sure to keep the main blotch area wet with the solution to keep everything hydrated. You'll achieve this by working from top to bottom. Work the edges too until you get to the main middle area.
Here's the guide I've been using for my IPA solutions for years now.
https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...ow-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html
I was buying my own IPA solution before this. Read it. Memorize it. Print it out. Cherish it.
After doing the soak and the solution with the enzyme soap? He could if he has one. I've got a few pressure washers, but I've never had to use it on something like this. The worst I've seen on my cars was what I assumed was a massive seagull festival eating the remnants of Mexican food that resulted in a few dumping their crap onto my hood. A good 3/4 of my GL's hood was covered in ****.
This is assuming he's got one and a wide spray nozzle that reduces the PSI of the water exiting the nozzle head.
They're great. Especially on your wheels.
That and the two bucket method and a good quality car shampoo is keeping my Golf in good condition.
I have a decent wash thing as well.
So much easier to use than a sponge.
Right, I don't get not being able to wet a towel, hit a you-wash-it, garden hose, hose at any filing station, grab a gallon of a water from a convenience store ... literally ANYTHING would help to resolve this in under 5 minutes.
Interesting. I think you linked the wrong photo, though. The only time I've used a pressure washer using a low PSI nozzle was for wheels and the underside of my car. I've have to give it a try one of these days. I've become accustomed to washing my cars and going through all the steps that it doesn't take me very long. I do a once a year deep cleaning of the interiors of our cars and a full paint correction. It takes a couple weekends but it's worth it in the end.
Have you used any of those new age clay bars that are impregnated into a sponge like the one you posted, minus the microfiber fingers?
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Have you used any of those new age clay bars that are impregnated into a sponge like the one you posted, minus the microfiber fingers?
[doublepost=1498600422][/doublepost]
Well, the point is to avoid marring the paint in any way or introducing new swirls. You also want to get every little bit of dried egg off. Easier to spend 20 minutes washing it slowly and making sure everything's gone. Blasting will probably work, but I'm sure a few bits of egg will remain and damage the paint or become dislodged in a future wash and scratch it up before it softens. I believe they call this condition anal retentiveness.
Darn. You are in a pickle. If it's going to stay on until Friday the earliest, I would use something fairly weak since you're not stripping wax or polish dust. Find yourself a 28-32 oz bottle, clean. Pour 5-6 ounces of 50% IPA and the rest clean water, doesn't have to be fancy, RO water is fine. If you can't find that strength of IPA, the regular old 90% stuff at 2 ounces plus 30 oz of water will be fine. Assuming you can't find a bottle that size, you'll need to work on the math yourself to figure out how much you'll need. In addition, and because that stuff is going to be crusty to hell and back, you're going to need something strong to penetrate and strip it. This goes against my usual recommendations to everyone, but find yourself a bottle of Dawn Platinum. It needs to be the Platinum, you can get the regular stuff or the refill pump liquid (it's more viscous). Pour a tablespoon or two into the bottle and shake it up. Dishwashing liquid is the worst for car paint because it strips wax and oils, but Dawn Platinum has two types of enzymes; one eats at proteins and the other eats lipids. I've been unfortunately a few times in the past to get big rig exhaust soot all over my cars. This stuff sans alcohol will melt away that soot with a spray after presoaking. I've never found a car soap or spray act that fast and that good without needing reapplication.
This is what it'll look like. They're sold at just about every grocery store. You can use regular Dawn, too, but you'll need a lot because it doesn't contain the enzymes that this does.
For the actual scrubbing of the area, use your wash&wax combo liquid or whatever you use. Make it very potent and gently scrub the area with a clean sponge that you'll be throwing out later or use for your tires later on. I'd advise against using it on your paint again. You could if you managed to shave off the surfaces with a band saw. Go very slow, go gentle. You won't need a lot of pressure. We're trying to gently cleanse the area. Pretend you're uncovering an artifact and you want to be very gentle so as not to disturb it too much. Work from the top portion to the bottom. Making sure to keep the main blotch area wet with the solution to keep everything hydrated. You'll achieve this by working from top to bottom. Work the edges too until you get to the main middle area.
Here's the guide I've been using for my IPA solutions for years now.
https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...ow-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html
I was buying my own IPA solution before this. Read it. Memorize it. Print it out. Cherish it. Once you're done and everything is gone. Give your car a nice normal wash using your regular sponge or mitt, and then rewax the car. I use less than the suggested amount for the IPA. You don't need much. Even a third strength will get the job done.
Thanks!
Is the dawn solution with the IPA or a separate solution?
Also as a reminder, all this happened at 4 am. Nothing was open. By the time I got to the gas station at the airport, it all dried up and had no time to deal with it.
No ive not seen them. I'll have a read up.
Generally I use a spray polish which looks good about twice a year. It's still in great nick as it's on about 8000 miles despite being two and a half years old.
Either one will work. You could buy two bottles if you wanted to. Perhaps a smaller one for the Dawn Platinum. Like I said, you could go a third strength IPA into the water and come out fine. Very little is needed. IPA Solution (the one mixed with water) is great for a lot of thing. The soap itself is interesting stuff. It's remarkable stuff. The Dawn Platinum stuff has been used in oil spills. It's the only animal safe, biodegradable soap that manages to clean efficiently, fast and without issue. Safer than a lot of degreasers out there, including Simple Green.
I still have my first Honda Accord, a 1999 with 210,000 miles on it and it still refuses to quit. Last week, I had to get a power steering line replaced because it sprung a huge leak. Once I got that fixed, what I thought was something else going on with the engine, went away. The sound that I thought was coming from somewhere in the engine, was most likely just the power steering pump being starved of it's full nourishment. I'll drive that on really bad snow days. The AC and everything else on the car still works today.
Come on guys, do we need to go nuts over this? Get some water on it, get the worst off, and then take care of the rest when you can wash it right.
Here's another good one to have in your tool kit-get a bottle of seltzer water, take the top off, shake the crap out of it with your thumb covering it, and use your thumb to turn it into a make-shift pressure washer.
BTW, dish soap is GENERALLY a bad thing to use on cars unless you can avoid it as it will strip wax.
Here's another good one to have in your tool kit-get a bottle of seltzer water, take the top off, shake the crap out of it with your thumb covering it, and use your thumb to turn it into a make-shift pressure washer.
BTW, dish soap is GENERALLY a bad thing to use on cars unless you can avoid it as it will strip wax.
Sorry that happened but I think you will be ok. Follow some of the suggestions given, good luck!
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That's true, nobody is buying sedans much anymore, but they really ain't buying malibu's.
I'll wax the area again, I just want to get that crap off without damaging the paint/clear coat. The wax is the least of my worries.
Well aware, which is why I suggested he wash the rest of the car and rewax. For what it's worth, though, some companies have done tests and dish soap isn't as effective at removing synthetic waxes as previously thought. Great at removing carnuba. Most wash solutions will strip wax unless it's noted it doesn't. There was a thread on Autogeek a few years back where a company tested Dawn or Palmolive on a car. A few hundred washes. Nothing changed (they still waxed it) the paint or the trim. The idea of soap being harmful to trim comes from a few decades ago when there was less regulation on what could be added to the mixture.
Though I'd be curious to see if long term use of seltzer would do anything to damage a wax coat due to the carbonic acid that's present.
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4 cylinder?
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I don't know, one would think the pilot wouldn't get to work 30 seconds before lift off.
What? You've never been on a flight that has been has been delayed? I think I've been on just as many delayed flights as on time? The United issues had nothing to do with the airline's timeliness. I'm not suggesting he be late for work, I'm just questioning your statement.
So not cleaning the egg off the paint for 4 days and potentially having to reprint the car is better than a 10 step cleaning process? Give me a break. This is not some museum quality rare peice of automotive history nor is it a particularly expensive vehicle in the grand scheme of things. This is instead a very new daily driver that the owner is proud of and wants to maintain, which I can understand.
Regardless of what cleaning method is used, as long is it is thorough, whatever damage occurs after 4+ days of egg sitting on paint will be done. You can't "clean out" damage so to speak. I don't know how quickly that happens, but I imagine he's lucky the car has a fresh paint job.
Personally I would have taken the 5 min to find a 24hr gas station (usually abundant near airports, unless it's some tiny private airstrip), bought some water, dumped it on the affected area, and used some paper towels or cloths to wipe off the egg, and done another rinse. Who cares if it's not properly washed and dried, it's better than raw egg baking onto the hood. Then again I usually get to work early.
Right now we're having a massive downpour in Boston (complete with thunder and lightening). If @quagmire is lucky (and didn't park in a garage) then maybe the storm also hit where his car is.
Takata has filed for bankruptcy. Dire news indeed. On the bright side, I managed to get all our cars' airbags replaced on time and being a little pushy. Told you to push harder for a swap, @AutoUnion39.
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[doublepost=1498612106][/doublepost]
First off, it was a joke. Secondly, the worst delay I've experienced in my life has been two hours. Most delays are caused by reasons other than the pilot and copilot not being there in time. They still need to be there to run through the myriad of exterior and interior checks.
Where do you get a 10 step process from? You spray the car with water, spray the IPA solution with the soap, get down to work. Wash the car again. Very simple. It takes me less than half an hour to remove a pile of bird goop or road tar the side of a small child. Chances are his clear coat will be etched, but he can have it wet sanded and corrected by a professional. It'll only cost a few hundred. He'll be really screwed if the cars in the sun. In the dark in an enclosed parking structure? Damage, but not a lot like direct sunlight.
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Sounds like the car companies will foot a good deal of the replacement airbag bills. Looks like they're going to continue replacing airbags until at least 2020. The rest of its assets are going to be sold to a competitor.
And will probably drag their feet to do it. The chances of it exploding while driving are low given the amount of incidents against the number of affected vehicles on the road. It's simply frightening to know that it can happen.
I'm going to have to side with @A.Goldberg on this one.
Since time is an issue, just doing something short term to get the worst of it off is the best solution. If Quag has more time and materials available, by all means do some more elaborate scrubbing but wetting it and wiping it off with a rag is better than baking for a week.
Also, I respect the fact that Quag just made a big purchase and is immensely proud of it-as he well should be. It's a fine looking car and I'm sure equally fine driving.
With that said, by his own admission it's a DD for him. At some point you have to concede that a DD can't stay perfect forever. You're going to get stuck behind a gravel truck and end up with paint chips on the front bumper or scrub a curb when you're trying to find an opening in slow city traffic.
Back Feb. of 2015, my mom bought the first new car she'd had in 30 years(after years of driving 1-year off lease cars). With well under 3K on the clock, a driver ran a stoplight and this happened
Fortunately, she and my dad didn't even go to the hospital, which was the most important thing. Like she said, though, that would be her luck on buying a new car. And, there again, nothing could have prevented it-the driver who hit her was coming off the interstate and wasn't even in view when she started into the intersection. BTW, she insisted on all factory new parts and you can't tell.
I say all that to just say that getting your first damage/ding/dent on a DD car is a rite of passage. The only way to avoid it is to keep the car parked in the garage, but even if you just take it out once a month on a nice day stuff can still happen.
Since time is an issue, just doing something short term to get the worst of it off is the best solution. If Quag has more time and materials available, by all means do some more elaborate scrubbing but wetting it and wiping it off with a rag is better than baking for a week.
Also, I respect the fact that Quag just made a big purchase and is immensely proud of it-as he well should be. It's a fine looking car and I'm sure equally fine driving.
With that said, by his own admission it's a DD for him. At some point you have to concede that a DD can't stay perfect forever. You're going to get stuck behind a gravel truck and end up with paint chips on the front bumper or scrub a curb when you're trying to find an opening in slow city traffic.
Back Feb. of 2015, my mom bought the first new car she'd had in 30 years(after years of driving 1-year off lease cars). With well under 3K on the clock, a driver ran a stoplight and this happened
Fortunately, she and my dad didn't even go to the hospital, which was the most important thing. Like she said, though, that would be her luck on buying a new car. And, there again, nothing could have prevented it-the driver who hit her was coming off the interstate and wasn't even in view when she started into the intersection. BTW, she insisted on all factory new parts and you can't tell.
I say all that to just say that getting your first damage/ding/dent on a DD car is a rite of passage. The only way to avoid it is to keep the car parked in the garage, but even if you just take it out once a month on a nice day stuff can still happen.
It's up to him, of course. As to your mom's car. The best advice I was ever given was something along the lines of "A car is replaceable. Your life or limbs are not." I only gave Quag the steps because I've always valued near perfection if perfection wasn't possible.
As strange as this sounds, it makes me very happy to see a person treat their car as well as Quag does. Most people don't get it. They like cars, but don't see the point of detailing and keeping things on the straight and narrow. Then there's the people who just see a car as way to get from a to b.
As strange as this sounds, it makes me very happy to see a person treat their car as well as Quag does. Most people don't get it. They like cars, but don't see the point of detailing and keeping things on the straight and narrow. Then there's the people who just see a car as way to get from a to b.
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