Couldn't hurt, easy to do, heck, it's probably even under some kind of warranty.
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The Car Thread ... !
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Couldn't hurt, easy to do, heck, it's probably even under some kind of warranty.
If you did not see this in the previous post:
Update: After removing the radio face, and leaving the battery tender unhooked since last night (about 12 Hrs) battery voltage was 12v, and putting the ammeter on the battery posts (set to mA) it started at 200 and came down quickly to 100, then slowly kept descending to about 90 before I stopped watching it. I’ll go out tomorrow and check it again.
If I completely remove the battery cables from the battery, I’m wondering what the mA would be expected to read, zero? This 1982 should have minimal battery drain due to the lack of modern auto electronics.
“New” doesn’t always mean good. It’s the reason why the harder a part is to access/replace on a car, the more I’m willing to spend and also beach rest as much as I realistically can.
Also, auto starter batteries aren’t designed for deep cycle. They’re meant to be drained a bit to start, then charge right back up. Every deep cycle damages them to some extent, although things usually don’t get really bad unless they’re left flat for a while or charged back up too fast.
Also, auto starter batteries aren’t designed for deep cycle. They’re meant to be drained a bit to start, then charge right back up. Every deep cycle damages them to some extent, although things usually don’t get really bad unless they’re left flat for a while or charged back up too fast.
If there's no power, there's no current, the components are inert 
I agree, I'd expect your car to have a pretty minimal power draw, but a failing battery (new or not), might not be able to sustain even a super low drain. If it's ~90mA, that seems a bit high.
Had you been pulling the radio face previously? Sounds like an aftermarket setup, those are always in the usual suspect category.
I agree, I'd expect your car to have a pretty minimal power draw, but a failing battery (new or not), might not be able to sustain even a super low drain. If it's ~90mA, that seems a bit high.
Had you been pulling the radio face previously? Sounds like an aftermarket setup, those are always in the usual suspect category.
Excellent. Start small, start simple. Don’t over complicate it with too much online advice. After the tech completes the battery load test and if the battery is healthy, Don’t be afraid to ask for any other troubleshooting points of what else might be contributing to the drain if the battery is healthy. Choose a reputable shop and someone who is willing to listen.
Best of luck.
Measuring Amperage between the posts of the battery is not going to tell you anything. Also, do not disconnect both battery cables. Like D.T. said disconnect the negative battery cable and remove it from the terminal, the positive battery cable must remain hooked up to the battery. Then place the negative/black multimeter probe on the negative battery terminal, and the positive/red multimeter probe on the battery cable you disconnected so the circuit is completed by your multimeter. This will allow you to measure the current draw on the battery. The rule of thumb I always heard was if your current draw is more than 100mA with the ignition off you have an issue.
Trying to think this through...electrically there should be no difference measuring through negative vs. positive, although admittedly you have to be sure to not try your meter by contacting the body.
Ok, I blew through post and missed a vital part of it. Will try this tomorrow. ?Your MM (multimeter) is what you want, it's a pretty straight forward process: get to your battery, find your fuse box(es), then cable your MM to a 20-30a setup, if you've got clamps for the tips they're helpful or if it's straight probes, use some clothespins - what you're going to do is remove the negative battery cable and put the MM between the battery post and the cable. Set the range on the MM so you can read amps-to-milliamps, I think my nicer Craftsman has a 25a-250mA range.
Anyway, then with everything in the car off, no on/run, no lights, basically as it would be sitting in your garage, look at the draw on the MM, you'll probably see something, as most modern-ish cars have a few things that continue to operate while it's off (alarms, clocks, etc.), so seeing 10-20-30mA no big deal, you see the MM showing 100-200+mA (or more) something has gone rogue
So start pulling fuses while noting what circuit they handle (usually the box has a guide on the top, i.e., Fuse# >> Function), one at a time, if you pull one, and the MM drops down into a low mA current, that's the culprit, then you'll have to explore that component, e.g., stereo, wipers, whatever (bad motor, bad switch, etc.)
Thanks for the emphasis to @D.T.’s Post. I’ll report back.
So anyone in the UK or anywhere else got a new Merc on order. I ordered a replacement Mercedes in August and haven't got a build date yet. My dealer is checking with Mercedes every week but has no updates about a build window. I keep hearing rumours about co2 emission issues with the new engines causing delays and shortages of parts from worldwide manufacturers. I know its a new model that i have ordered that only went in to production in September so stock isn't available anywhere. Not a first world problem in light of Covid i know and I am happy to wait. I just wish i know if it wass going to be this year or next year.
I got around to doing this today. After topping the battery off, I disconnected the Negative cable, and put the multimeter set to mA between the cable and the post and got a reading of 150 mA. Then I started pulling out the fuses one at a time and finally got to one, when I pulled it out the drain went from 150 to 7 mA. Those are positive numbers, so I assume that is the current/drain. I have no idea what this fuse powers, according too my Clymer Manual, it powers electric windows, which I don't have. And nothing apparent seems to be unpowered, but when in current 150mA, when out 7mA...Your MM (multimeter) is what you want, it's a pretty straight forward process: get to your battery, find your fuse box(es), then cable your MM to a 20-30a setup, if you've got clamps for the tips they're helpful or if it's straight probes, use some clothespins - what you're going to do is remove the negative battery cable and put the MM between the battery post and the cable. Set the range on the MM so you can read amps-to-milliamps, I think my nicer Craftsman has a 25a-250mA range.
Anyway, then with everything in the car off, no on/run, no lights, basically as it would be sitting in your garage, look at the draw on the MM, you'll probably see something, as most modern-ish cars have a few things that continue to operate while it's off (alarms, clocks, etc.), so seeing 10-20-30mA no big deal, you see the MM showing 100-200+mA (or more) something has gone rogue
So start pulling fuses while noting what circuit they handle (usually the box has a guide on the top, i.e., Fuse# >> Function), one at a time, if you pull one, and the MM drops down into a low mA current, that's the culprit, then you'll have to explore that component, e.g., stereo, wipers, whatever (bad motor, bad switch, etc.)
I jumped in the car and drove it around the neighbor hood, got back and hooked up the battery monitor which seemed to show the battery was lower than when I started driving it. I'd assume if the alternator was working, I'd come back with a fully charged battery. My understanding is that in this car, the spark plugs are powered by the battery, not directly by the alternator, but not sure about that either.
I really need to verify that my alternator is working. We had that replaced about 7 years ago, but I've noticed when I turn the key on the battery icon does not light up red, where I thought it used to before the engine was started and the alternator is actually charging the battery, but maybe what I'm seeing is normal. Any easy way to verify I have functional alternator?
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Measure voltage on the battery when the engine is running. It should be well above 12V, usually in the 13,8V - 14,4V range.
Depends if his car has a smart charging system. To enable better fuel economy, some manufactures don’t always have the alternator put out 14V. For instance my car, if the battery is fully charged and there is not a huge electrical demand, the alternator output will drop to 12.5V.
Speaking of batteries and all that.... Looks like spring time it will be time to replace the battery in my Camaro. Changed the wheels over to the winter set when filling with air, got the low battery start engine warning. It only sat for 2 days and wasn’t on for long. Sign to me at least that the battery is getting old.
It can take a little while for the alternator to top up the battery, especially if either is marginal.
The ignition system runs off the electrical system, and when everything is working as designed the alternator and battery should be at the same potential. In a sense, in a running car, a battery can be thought of as something of a "current stabilizer"-it's there if for whatever reason the alternator can't supply all of the present needs, and also as a place for the alternator(in an overly simplified way) to dump current when it's running. You can actually damage your alternator by running without a battery.
His car is a 1980. It won't have a smart charging system-just a plain old regulator.
Whelp, I traded in my Chevy Colorado (model WT) for another truck. I suppose this is the positive thing about leasing, you have opportunities to turn over to a new vehicle a lot sooner then owning. My plan has been to get off the lease carousel and my prior truck was in prime position to do just that, low buy back price, and well, I like it.
The downside was that the truck was the low end trim level, no features, four wheels, and a steering wheel, so to speak.
I wasn't looking, but my dealership reached out to me, both in mail and email stating they're willing to give me 120% value for my tuck and there's a ton of leasing incentives. I think the current world situation that has impacted so many company's profits made both GM and the dealership a lot receptive for deals and lowering prices.
The bottom line, is I got a Colorado, Z71 which is the higher end trim level, with just about every feature GM offers.
I got all that and my monthly payment for the lease went down by 40 dollars per month
I'll be looking for a better tonneau cover (interested in a hard tonneau) and I'll be re-installing my bed rug that was in my older truck.
The downside was that the truck was the low end trim level, no features, four wheels, and a steering wheel, so to speak.
I wasn't looking, but my dealership reached out to me, both in mail and email stating they're willing to give me 120% value for my tuck and there's a ton of leasing incentives. I think the current world situation that has impacted so many company's profits made both GM and the dealership a lot receptive for deals and lowering prices.
The bottom line, is I got a Colorado, Z71 which is the higher end trim level, with just about every feature GM offers.
I got all that and my monthly payment for the lease went down by 40 dollars per month
I'll be looking for a better tonneau cover (interested in a hard tonneau) and I'll be re-installing my bed rug that was in my older truck.
BTW, @Huntn , the voltage check to see if your alternator is working is good and easy to do it home. If you pull it, most parts store can and will bench test it for free. As I mentioned, a dead diode can actually zap a battery pretty quickly. That won't necessarily stop the alternator from working either, but will make it a lot less efficient when it does.
A bit of poking around seems to point to the specced Marelli alternator being a rebadged Bosch, which is a good thing and means that it's a readily available and inexpensive alternator. At one time, that alternator was used as a nearly bolt-on replacement on MGs with higher output and better availability than the Lucas 18ACR. Now, the preferred MG upgrade is a Delco CS130, which has a number of advantages beyond its higher output. The alternator itself(not the car mounts) needs a bit of work to make it fit, and you'll need to swap out the stock serpentine belt pulley for a V-belt style. The wiring needs a bit of work, but the folks who have done it seem to rave about it. It might be worthwhile to see if Fiat guys do a similar swap.
A bit of poking around seems to point to the specced Marelli alternator being a rebadged Bosch, which is a good thing and means that it's a readily available and inexpensive alternator. At one time, that alternator was used as a nearly bolt-on replacement on MGs with higher output and better availability than the Lucas 18ACR. Now, the preferred MG upgrade is a Delco CS130, which has a number of advantages beyond its higher output. The alternator itself(not the car mounts) needs a bit of work to make it fit, and you'll need to swap out the stock serpentine belt pulley for a V-belt style. The wiring needs a bit of work, but the folks who have done it seem to rave about it. It might be worthwhile to see if Fiat guys do a similar swap.
@Huntn, by any chance did you check to see if your aftermarket radio turned off when you pulled that fuse? I'm wondering if someone tapped into that fuse for it thinking it would only supply power when the ignition is on, but in reality it is supplying power all the time and that is why the radio doesn't turn off.
Looks great. I am a huge fan of black. But may I make a worthwhile recommendation? (Well, I’m going to anyways.😁)
Being you live in a state where snow and salt is predominant right about this time of year, I would seriously consider having your car ceramic coated being it’s black. It will protect the clearcoat, adds a layer of protection where dirt and salt Won’t mar of the paint, and it keeps that black with a high wet gloss shine. I have ceramic coated all my cars and even though it’s kind of an expensive investment (If you ceramic coated the paint only and not the wheels, you’d probably be looking around $2000 at a minimum with a warranty)., it really is worth it, given dirt/dust and other elements are no match. [There’s Lots of YouTube videos showing you the protection ceramic coating can provide.]
Anyways, I realize now everybody wants to spend more money once they just purchase a vehicle like that, but being yours is a daily driver and Black in a ‘snow state’, it’s an instant no brainer if it’s in your budget.
Thanks, but that's just way out of my price range, and doing a quick google, it seems 2,000 is the low end, and you can spend upwards of over 5k on such a coating.
I've never had such a coating and for all intents and purposes, my vehicles never looked horrible when turning them in. I think I'll pass as spending 5k in this economy seems a bit extravagant
Totally understandable. Also, Given you’re leasing your vehicle -Versus- long-term ownership, it probably wouldn’t be in your best interest to ceramic coat when your going to trade it in another two years or so. Essentially, if you did ceramic coat, you really would only be doing the dealership and/or the next owner a favor, as this is something that you’re not driving for the next five years or beyond.
As for the price, $2000 is on the cheaper side, but it can get very expensive depending on which brand you choose, how long it takes (If it’s one or two people doing the job), and of course which package you choose, which includes various warranties. Nonetheless, I’m also not your typical ‘norm‘ of a car owner, where I go to the extreme probably more than anybody else when it comes to paint protection. But that’s just me.
But you’re right, in an economy right now that has a lot of instability due to the pandemic, it’s definitely not necessary if someone was unsure (And I Don’t want you to get in trouble with the wife or anything.😁) What I could suggest, is a solid layer of wax on your car before winter arrives, that would offer some minor protection for the paint.
Black is one of my all-time favorite colors on a car and this is what it looks like when it is ceramic coated on my 18’ Scat Pack, which really makes the paint pop and adds the layer of protection against the outside elements.
For those paying attention to this discussion regarding my 82 Fiat 124 Spider 2000, a preliminary test indicates I have a bad alternator. In addition when I come back from driving the car for wbout 20 minutes, the battery voltage has noticeably dropped as in it’s not being charged.
And then an interesting thing happened, a person who says he has worked as a mechanic saw my for sale sign and fell in love with this car. I disclosed to him the issue about the alternator, and he said that if the battery was disconnected while the car is running, that the alternator is bad, but I’m not sure that is true for this car. Anyway we tried this and the car died.
@Beerstalker I discovered that fuse I pulled causing a draw of current was the air circulation fan.
I sold the car for $5000, which ironically is what I paid for it 32 years ago.
Not what I hoped a vintage car would sell for, but I just wanted to get get rid of it. I did not have the space for it, I did not trust it for long drives, and most importantly did not want to invest the money into it that would be required to get it where it needs to be.
For those paying attention to this discussion regarding my 82 Fiat 124 Spider 2000, a preliminary test indicates I have a bad alternator. In addition when I come back from driving the car for wbout 20 minutes, the battery voltage has noticeably dropped as in it’s not being charged.
And then an interesting thing happened, a person who says he has worked as a mechanic saw my for sale sign and fell in love with this car. I disclosed to him the issue about the alternator, and he said that if the battery was disconnected while the car is running, that the alternator is bad, but I’m not sure that is true for this car. Anyway we tried this and the car died.
@Beerstalker I discovered that fuse I pulled causing a draw of current was the air circulation fan.
I sold the car for $5000, which ironically is what I paid for it 32 years ago.
Sounds like you had the best potential outcome.
Sometimes, selling "warts and all" to someone with full disclosure of what's going on is worth it to just be rid of a headache. I've been there. I was there not too long ago with my Marina-I would have loved to have kept it and gotten it roadworthy(the transmission was on the way out and it had some other issues) but at the end of the day I needed it gone and it was easiest to just hand it over to a mechanic with a laundry list of what did work(not much, other than the engine) and didn't work, agree on a price(also what I'd paid) and wave bye to it.
And now you have $5k towards your next car!For those paying attention to this discussion regarding my 82 Fiat 124 Spider 2000, a preliminary test indicates I have a bad alternator. In addition when I come back from driving the car for wbout 20 minutes, the battery voltage has noticeably dropped as in it’s not being charged.
And then an interesting thing happened, a person who says he has worked as a mechanic saw my for sale sign and fell in love with this car. I disclosed to him the issue about the alternator, and he said that if the battery was disconnected while the car is running, that the alternator is bad, but I’m not sure that is true for this car. Anyway we tried this and the car died.
@Beerstalker I discovered that fuse I pulled causing a draw of current was the air circulation fan.
I sold the car for $5000, which ironically is what I paid for it 32 years ago.
Speaking of batteries....
Just had the Camaro load-tested today, (it’s seven years old), and it barely passed. Chevrolet replaced the battery with a new AC Delco 94R 800CC. ~$159.00, (minus the $11.00 core return charge). I just figured with winter coming, one cold snap of 10°, And that’s going to completely drain any battery Power left.
I was doing a lot of research on batteries, from Duralast to Interstate, But I figured it was probably just better to go with the same battery that was already in the Camaro to begin with from the factory.
On a side note: I actually really like that the battery is located in the trunk of the Camaro, there’s nothing surrounding it and it’s segregated away from any outside elements with rain or dirt versus being under the hood. It literally takes two minutes to replace once you disconnect the cables, vent hose and bracket.
Just had the Camaro load-tested today, (it’s seven years old), and it barely passed. Chevrolet replaced the battery with a new AC Delco 94R 800CC. ~$159.00, (minus the $11.00 core return charge). I just figured with winter coming, one cold snap of 10°, And that’s going to completely drain any battery Power left.
I was doing a lot of research on batteries, from Duralast to Interstate, But I figured it was probably just better to go with the same battery that was already in the Camaro to begin with from the factory.
On a side note: I actually really like that the battery is located in the trunk of the Camaro, there’s nothing surrounding it and it’s segregated away from any outside elements with rain or dirt versus being under the hood. It literally takes two minutes to replace once you disconnect the cables, vent hose and bracket.
Just wondering if there are many VW owners here? I'm in UK on my third Tiguan (love them), currently driving the bonkers Tiguan Allspace BiTurbo R Line - scared the crap out of me when I put it in Sport and floored it....0-60mph in 6.5secs - not bad for a 2tonne diesel
