LED tubes? They are so bright. I’m glad I had them put in my garage when we did the rewire. I can see all the blemishes in my paint work now!
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The Car Thread ... !
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And they go on in cold rooms 
And easy to chain. I love them.
Entirely you choice, but to me those 80 LE wheels are a big fat no. The big bumper car doesn't help, but they look just wrong on a MGB. Little Ferrari copy cats.
And easy to chain. I love them.Entirely you choice, but to me those 80 LE wheels are a big fat no. The big bumper car doesn't help, but they look just wrong on a MGB. Little Ferrari copy cats.
I would have to agree on this.And they go on in cold rooms
Entirely you choice, but to me those 80 LE wheels are a big fat no. The big bumper car doesn't help, but they look just wrong on a MGB. Little Ferrari copy cats.
Just standard 40W 48" T12 Fluorescent tubes.
@LightBulbFun mentioned to me that since this is likely quite a fairly old fixture(the single tube I pulled out of it was from 1970) the ballast in it would likely light the tubes up brighter than a more modern fixture. Whatever the case, it's bright.
Thanks also for the feedback on the 80 LE wheels folks. I may be going to grab a cheap set tomorrow with ancient not-safe-to-drive tires on them. If I do, I can at least bolt them on and see how they look. If not, they won't hurt anything in the corner of the garage.
Why can no one make a modern wheel I actually like with the correct backspacing?
Why can no one make a modern wheel I actually like with the correct backspacing?
If you can’t decide just go with one of each! I used to manufacture wheels in a previous life (metal spinning).
Various companies. Image Wheels, Weller Wheels and SAS Specialised automobile services.
The last company used to make the wire wheels. They were very difficult to produce. Especially the hubs.
Still not exactly what I would have guessed as a previous job candidate for you ?
You probably wouldn’t have figured I was an escapologist for a while either!
In a cold garage, good old fashioned incandescent bulbs have their place.
This is one additional advantage-anyone want to guess what I'm doing here?
BTW, incandescents are hard to find but aren't COMPLETELY banned as some sources report. These all came from my local Lowes. One "loophole" is that rough service bulbs are still allowed. Another is that you can get halogen bulbs that are packaged in an outer glass globe like a typical incandescent. The latter are somewhat more efficient-a 100W equivalent bulb draws 72W. If you really want to go big, bulbs over 100W are also still allowed, and 150W bulbs are available.
Unfortunately, the halogens are not at all durable when you're knocking them around, and I've killed 3 of them. I scoured the lighting aisle and finally found a couple of 100W rough service bulbs. These are interesting bulbs-they're teflon coated to prevent the envelope from shattering, but the filaments are durable.
This is one additional advantage-anyone want to guess what I'm doing here?
BTW, incandescents are hard to find but aren't COMPLETELY banned as some sources report. These all came from my local Lowes. One "loophole" is that rough service bulbs are still allowed. Another is that you can get halogen bulbs that are packaged in an outer glass globe like a typical incandescent. The latter are somewhat more efficient-a 100W equivalent bulb draws 72W. If you really want to go big, bulbs over 100W are also still allowed, and 150W bulbs are available.
Unfortunately, the halogens are not at all durable when you're knocking them around, and I've killed 3 of them. I scoured the lighting aisle and finally found a couple of 100W rough service bulbs. These are interesting bulbs-they're teflon coated to prevent the envelope from shattering, but the filaments are durable.
When I need a portable light I borrow my photography LED lights. I have a pair of Westcott ice lights. Very bright. Came in very handy when I was boarding out the loft.
My guess as to what you are doing is adjusting your carburettor set up?
I am adjusting the carbs-in fact I'd call it pretty well in tune now. It's idling at around 1100-with this cam it gets a bit lumpy under that. Timing is 32º BTDC max advance, carbs are nicely synced and tuned, and with the linkages set up correctly the idle falls nicely.
I put the lamp under the carbs to get them a bit warm and make the car easier to start when I was ready to do so.
I am calling this a good day's work.
First of all, just a bit on the timing. One of the things holding me up was that, like a lot of cars, the mark is a notched filed in the harmonic balancer. It's hard to see with a timing light, or even without the engine running. Consequently, I generally try to take a paint pen to it and fill it in.
The timing marks are a series of "fingers" on the front of the timing cover. For whatever reason-I'm guessing corresponding with when stroboscopic lights became more common-the marks were moved up to the top of the engine in 1972. If you set timing at max advance, like I prefer to do, it gets really difficult to open the throttle while also watching the timing mark. I had bought a nice pointer and tape kit that I asked to be installed that shows timing without using a dialback light. The pointer made it on, but the tape either didn't or fell off. In any case, I just spun the engine around to TDC by the bottom mark and put a paint mark in line with the pointer up top.
The timing was really, really off. I'd guess that setting to 10º static, I moved the distributor about 20º. I'm amazed the car even ran at all, and I'm just glad I didn't blow a hole in a piston driving it home. In any case, dialing it in to the universally recognized "correct" value of 32º BTDC max mechanical, no vacuum, the engine settled down a lot. BTW, I also confirmed the vac advance works(which it SHOULD since I had the distributor rebuilt a few years ago) since I forgot to disconnect it and I measured nearly 90º at idle. No wonder too the idle was racing so much.
Once the timing was correct-again timing first, then carbs, although the carbs have to be in the ballpark to get the dynamic timing right(BTW, got a steady-ish idle when I screwed the jets down another full turn)-I went to the carbs. I was able to get them synced nicely, then get the idle down to a reasonable number. Once I got the mixture set and reset the idle, I was super happy with how it sounded in the garage. I went in and asked my wife if she wanted to go for a ride.
We went out just for a low speed tour around, and it blew me away with how it was running. It's like I remember it from back in the spring when the engine was worn out but at least in tune. Once I dropped her off after a sedate drive, I made a small tweak on the mixture then took it out for a bit more...vigorous...of a drive. Let's just say I'm ecstatic. I still want to go through and do another round of tuning since I think I can probably get it dialed in better now that it's close(plus I want to get rid of the awful pointy iridium plugs the garage put in).
Not sure if I mentioned this, but the guy I'm trying to meet up with to buy an original front bumper(mine is a nasty, badly fitting repro) also came up with a set of 5 LE wheels when I asked him. They have tires-old and probably not driveable-but he offered them to me for a good price so I'm going to grab them. I can at least bolt them on and see how I like them, especially since there are tires on them. If they look terrible, no big deal and I'm not out a ton of money. If they do look good, I'll toss some good tires on them-maybe try the much-beloved General Altimax RT3.
First of all, just a bit on the timing. One of the things holding me up was that, like a lot of cars, the mark is a notched filed in the harmonic balancer. It's hard to see with a timing light, or even without the engine running. Consequently, I generally try to take a paint pen to it and fill it in.
The timing marks are a series of "fingers" on the front of the timing cover. For whatever reason-I'm guessing corresponding with when stroboscopic lights became more common-the marks were moved up to the top of the engine in 1972. If you set timing at max advance, like I prefer to do, it gets really difficult to open the throttle while also watching the timing mark. I had bought a nice pointer and tape kit that I asked to be installed that shows timing without using a dialback light. The pointer made it on, but the tape either didn't or fell off. In any case, I just spun the engine around to TDC by the bottom mark and put a paint mark in line with the pointer up top.
The timing was really, really off. I'd guess that setting to 10º static, I moved the distributor about 20º. I'm amazed the car even ran at all, and I'm just glad I didn't blow a hole in a piston driving it home. In any case, dialing it in to the universally recognized "correct" value of 32º BTDC max mechanical, no vacuum, the engine settled down a lot. BTW, I also confirmed the vac advance works(which it SHOULD since I had the distributor rebuilt a few years ago) since I forgot to disconnect it and I measured nearly 90º at idle. No wonder too the idle was racing so much.
Once the timing was correct-again timing first, then carbs, although the carbs have to be in the ballpark to get the dynamic timing right(BTW, got a steady-ish idle when I screwed the jets down another full turn)-I went to the carbs. I was able to get them synced nicely, then get the idle down to a reasonable number. Once I got the mixture set and reset the idle, I was super happy with how it sounded in the garage. I went in and asked my wife if she wanted to go for a ride.
We went out just for a low speed tour around, and it blew me away with how it was running. It's like I remember it from back in the spring when the engine was worn out but at least in tune. Once I dropped her off after a sedate drive, I made a small tweak on the mixture then took it out for a bit more...vigorous...of a drive. Let's just say I'm ecstatic. I still want to go through and do another round of tuning since I think I can probably get it dialed in better now that it's close(plus I want to get rid of the awful pointy iridium plugs the garage put in).
Not sure if I mentioned this, but the guy I'm trying to meet up with to buy an original front bumper(mine is a nasty, badly fitting repro) also came up with a set of 5 LE wheels when I asked him. They have tires-old and probably not driveable-but he offered them to me for a good price so I'm going to grab them. I can at least bolt them on and see how I like them, especially since there are tires on them. If they look terrible, no big deal and I'm not out a ton of money. If they do look good, I'll toss some good tires on them-maybe try the much-beloved General Altimax RT3.
Glad you got it running nicely, and also good the engine seems to have survived the ride home, out of timing as it was. ?
So I sold my Model 3 to Carvana at a great price and picked up a 2021 Model Y long-range dual motor. Very excited to have this. Unfortunately been out of commission with Covid and pneumonia, so can't enjoy it. My wife sure does though.
So I sold my Model 3 to Carvana at a great price and picked up a 2021 Model Y long-range dual motor. Very excited to have this. Unfortunately been out of commission with Covid and pneumonia, so can't enjoy it. My wife sure does though.
Looks nice John. What was your reasons for selling your Model three? And I’m curious, why Carvana? I actually was just discussing them a few posts back in this thread, and they’re becoming more main stream every day for both sales/delivery.
It will be interesting to see the response regarding Carvana. In the UK I’ve been using services like that for about 7 years. Mainly for say up to three year old cars with a decent value. I find it way more convenient than advertising privately and dealing with tyre kickers. Only today I’ve got an Audi dealer picking up my wife’s car that they bought back from us last week. No hassle and secure. Sure perhaps get a little bit less than sell privately, but worth foregoing the hassle.
Absolutely. Same with old iPhones etc. Can’t be doing with the time wasters.
I picked this up this morning. Strange driving an automatic but i’ll get used to it again. Won’t be clean for long with all the salt on the roads either. COVID pickups are weird too.
Oooh they’ve come a long way from the old CRV. That looks really nice.
Enjoy. I bet you don’t get many miles on it in the next few weeks though.I picked this up this morning. Strange driving an automatic but i’ll get used to it again. Won’t be clean for long with all the salt on the roads either. COVID pickups are weird too.
Arggg, I bought an Innova dial-back timing light last week and paid a very dear price for it(close to $100). I was using it a little while ago and it seems the dialback function has decided to quit working. That's a first for me, but quite disappointing...
Hopefully they'll honor their warranty on it.
Hopefully they'll honor their warranty on it.