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The Car Thread ... !
- Thread starter D.T.
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Don't know about consumer law in the U.S., but I'd say at an age of one week they don't have much choice, do they?
The wife is going back and forth to work so about 25 miles a day. Won’t be going far as a family though sadly.
Lots of car batteries being sold in 2021 I predict. I wonder what the impact of owning an all electric car is if it’s not being used?
I had a battery fail on our last CR-V in December 2019, cost me £200. My Dads Audi has just had a battery fail and has only done 200 miles in 10 months. Not a good year for battery longevity.
£200 for a battery? Thats a lot! I changed the one in Mrs AFB car a month or so ago, cost me a quarter of that. I did it myself though.
Newer batteries (AGM, and maybe also high capacity) are quite expensive. Also, on some newer high end cars you can't just swap batteries yourself. You have to make sure there's always power to the car (even while changing batteries) and in some you also have to "tell" the car that it now has a new one (onboard energy management).
It was a stop/start Varta branded one. Couldn’t really shop around too much on Boxing Day.
My Golf has stop start so I guess that will be expensive when I have to do it.
Possibly. I did google it a bit more after I got it and I probably could have saved £20 if I had waited longer but I got the highest capacity on the market for that vehicle so wasn’t complaint too much. The first thing I do now when driving is disable the stop/start switch.
Due to the fact mine doesn't kick in if you have the heater or AC on, it rarely does. Plus I don't really drive in traffic. Unless the sheep escape!
I took the car into the shop with a 195º thermostat.
Since getting it back, I've been a little worried that the temperature gauge only got halfway between C and N.
Finally, a little while ago, I got around to pulling the thermostat housing. Sure enough, it's 160º. I figured since I've heard him talk about in the past how "these cars always overheat". That's first of all not true if your cooling system is in good shape(hot tanked block+new radiator mean I'm good) and second, if the car overheats, a cooler thermostat won't solve your problems.
160º isn't even what BL specced-the cars always came with a 180º Tstat.
Fortunately, it's the same thermostat as is used in a small block Chevy, so quite literally nearly any parts story in the country will have one.
Since getting it back, I've been a little worried that the temperature gauge only got halfway between C and N.
Finally, a little while ago, I got around to pulling the thermostat housing. Sure enough, it's 160º. I figured since I've heard him talk about in the past how "these cars always overheat". That's first of all not true if your cooling system is in good shape(hot tanked block+new radiator mean I'm good) and second, if the car overheats, a cooler thermostat won't solve your problems.
160º isn't even what BL specced-the cars always came with a 180º Tstat.
Fortunately, it's the same thermostat as is used in a small block Chevy, so quite literally nearly any parts story in the country will have one.
That’s like replacing the constantly blown 10A fuse with a 15A one, because that doesn’t blow …
Not really even that.
The thermostat just sets the lower operating temperature of the engine, not the upper temperature. If it's going to overheat, it will do so no matter where it starts.
Also, tomorrow's to-do list on my last "free day" before classes start again(and also procrastinating knocking out the final copy of my syllabus plus preparing my first week's lectures):
1. I finally got in the replacement wheel cylinders, so I'll be pulling the rear drums and fitting those tomorrow. Hopefully I can get them fitted without removing the brake shoes or the like. The last time I looked at them, they were basically perfect, and I really hate doing drum brakes. I know the springs are set up wrong on one side of my car, and I should correct that, but did I mention that I hate doing drum brakes, and that's one of my least favorite parts? Hopefully I can work the old cylinders out and fit the new ones without undoing the springs.
BTW, it's worth mentioning my great dislike of working on drum brakes.
Of course, I'll need to bleed after that.
I'm KIND of putting it off, though, because caught up in the postal system miasma now is a rebuilt "PDWA" valve. PDWA is the "Pressure Differential Warning Actuator." Basically, it's a sort of H shaped block that has lines for the front and rear brakes passing through opposite sides of the H. The cross of the H has a shuttle valve sealed off with O-rings, and there's an electrical switch that sits on top of the shuttle valve and is tied to a light on the dashboard. The idea behind this whole set up is if there's a failure in one of the brake circuits, in response to the "pressure differential" between the two circuits, the shuttle valve will move and light up the switch.
The system has two issues. One is that it's bloody useless, since your foot will tell you about brake failure far faster and more reliably than a light on the dashboard. The bigger issue, though, is the shuttle valve gets leaky. When that happens, two things happen. One is that brake fluid leaks out around the switch, so it's a source of a slow loss of brake fluid. The second and bigger issue is that it can allow "crosstalk" between the front and rear circuits, which, among other things, kind of defeats the purpose of even having independent systems and can also throw off the brake bias a surprising amount.
Some folks plug the leaky switch with a bolt, which stops the leak but not the cross-talk issue. Someone out in California actually gave me, for the cost of shipping(and return of my old one) one that he "fixed." He use to sell these, but got out of the business a while back and just has a few kicking around. Basically, this one has the shuttle valve removed completely and then a plug brazed in place that completely blocks the connection between the two sides.
Since there's no mail tomorrow, it won't be here for sure. I'll most likely put off the rear cylinders because I only want to deal with opening and bleeding the system once. I'll also have an excuse for not doing them since, if I haven't mentioned it, I don't like working on drum brakes. Usually when I do calipers/cylinders I can be lazy and gravity bleed them(just open the bleeder valve and let it sit for an hour or so). The PDWA is far enough "up" in the brake system(it's close to the master cylinder) that I can't be too lazy on gravity bleeding it because the master cylinder will likely run dry if left unattended with bleeders open. Of course, it's also high enough that I probably have a pretty good chance of the air working its way out if I just let it sit overnight. I'll either get out the Mightyvac, which is a pain when you need to bleed that much brake line, or hopefully my wife will humor me and spend a few minutes sitting in the driver's seat and listening to me say "up, down, up, down, how's it feeling?" a million times. BTW, since brakes have no power assist and you also have one axle with disks(4 wheel drums can usually do okay without assist since drums tend to self-apply once started), the pedal on an MGB is rock hard. It's a bit disconcerting the first time you drive one, but you quickly get use to it, and you also quickly notice any sponginess or hydraulic problems. I drove my other car today for the first time in probably a week or so, and aside from trying to step on the phantom clutch and reaching down to the console constantly, I jerked it around pretty good the first few times I stopped it.
2. I need to figure out what's going on with the speedometer. Everything past the transmission is good, which means it has to be something inside the transmission. Hopefully if I drop the driven gear out, I'll see the issue. Fortuantely, the ones for this transmission are available(the transmission in the car when I got it had issues there, and the driven gear was an NLA one that I finally tracked down for $100). Of course, I dread doing that since I'll lose some oil out of the transmission. That's not a huge deal aside from the fact that this is a "side fill" transmission-it has a bolt in the side that you remove, and keep pumping oil in until oil runs out the hole. I do it with a hand-operated pump that screws on to a quart bottle of oil, and it takes 47 pumps to transfer a full quart(yes, I've counted). Hopefully I won't lose that much. Still, though, in a home garage, there's not really a better way to fill it.
1. I finally got in the replacement wheel cylinders, so I'll be pulling the rear drums and fitting those tomorrow. Hopefully I can get them fitted without removing the brake shoes or the like. The last time I looked at them, they were basically perfect, and I really hate doing drum brakes. I know the springs are set up wrong on one side of my car, and I should correct that, but did I mention that I hate doing drum brakes, and that's one of my least favorite parts? Hopefully I can work the old cylinders out and fit the new ones without undoing the springs.
BTW, it's worth mentioning my great dislike of working on drum brakes.
Of course, I'll need to bleed after that.
I'm KIND of putting it off, though, because caught up in the postal system miasma now is a rebuilt "PDWA" valve. PDWA is the "Pressure Differential Warning Actuator." Basically, it's a sort of H shaped block that has lines for the front and rear brakes passing through opposite sides of the H. The cross of the H has a shuttle valve sealed off with O-rings, and there's an electrical switch that sits on top of the shuttle valve and is tied to a light on the dashboard. The idea behind this whole set up is if there's a failure in one of the brake circuits, in response to the "pressure differential" between the two circuits, the shuttle valve will move and light up the switch.
The system has two issues. One is that it's bloody useless, since your foot will tell you about brake failure far faster and more reliably than a light on the dashboard. The bigger issue, though, is the shuttle valve gets leaky. When that happens, two things happen. One is that brake fluid leaks out around the switch, so it's a source of a slow loss of brake fluid. The second and bigger issue is that it can allow "crosstalk" between the front and rear circuits, which, among other things, kind of defeats the purpose of even having independent systems and can also throw off the brake bias a surprising amount.
Some folks plug the leaky switch with a bolt, which stops the leak but not the cross-talk issue. Someone out in California actually gave me, for the cost of shipping(and return of my old one) one that he "fixed." He use to sell these, but got out of the business a while back and just has a few kicking around. Basically, this one has the shuttle valve removed completely and then a plug brazed in place that completely blocks the connection between the two sides.
Since there's no mail tomorrow, it won't be here for sure. I'll most likely put off the rear cylinders because I only want to deal with opening and bleeding the system once. I'll also have an excuse for not doing them since, if I haven't mentioned it, I don't like working on drum brakes. Usually when I do calipers/cylinders I can be lazy and gravity bleed them(just open the bleeder valve and let it sit for an hour or so). The PDWA is far enough "up" in the brake system(it's close to the master cylinder) that I can't be too lazy on gravity bleeding it because the master cylinder will likely run dry if left unattended with bleeders open. Of course, it's also high enough that I probably have a pretty good chance of the air working its way out if I just let it sit overnight. I'll either get out the Mightyvac, which is a pain when you need to bleed that much brake line, or hopefully my wife will humor me and spend a few minutes sitting in the driver's seat and listening to me say "up, down, up, down, how's it feeling?" a million times. BTW, since brakes have no power assist and you also have one axle with disks(4 wheel drums can usually do okay without assist since drums tend to self-apply once started), the pedal on an MGB is rock hard. It's a bit disconcerting the first time you drive one, but you quickly get use to it, and you also quickly notice any sponginess or hydraulic problems. I drove my other car today for the first time in probably a week or so, and aside from trying to step on the phantom clutch and reaching down to the console constantly, I jerked it around pretty good the first few times I stopped it.
2. I need to figure out what's going on with the speedometer. Everything past the transmission is good, which means it has to be something inside the transmission. Hopefully if I drop the driven gear out, I'll see the issue. Fortuantely, the ones for this transmission are available(the transmission in the car when I got it had issues there, and the driven gear was an NLA one that I finally tracked down for $100). Of course, I dread doing that since I'll lose some oil out of the transmission. That's not a huge deal aside from the fact that this is a "side fill" transmission-it has a bolt in the side that you remove, and keep pumping oil in until oil runs out the hole. I do it with a hand-operated pump that screws on to a quart bottle of oil, and it takes 47 pumps to transfer a full quart(yes, I've counted). Hopefully I won't lose that much. Still, though, in a home garage, there's not really a better way to fill it.
Replacing driveshaft joint sealing rubber thingies (don't know the English word for that) is a lot worse than doing (drum) brakes. That's my least favourite thing to do on cars. That grease is the devil!
And, good luck in locating the speedometer issue.
Do you mean the rubbery accordion covers on constant velocity(CV) joints on the differential/transaxle half shafts? If so, we usually call them "CV Boots." I agree that they are a pain.
I need to do the steering rack ones on the MG. The ones out there are junk, and it's a given you're going to be replacing them every 2-3 years. It's a nasty job because you actually flood the whole thing with 90wt gear oil, not grease, after you've sealed them up.
Yes, those are the ones I meant. CV joint covers. CV joint grease gets everywhere, and refuses to be washed off. Nasty stuff.
Well, we wanted a couple of things that this brings: more interior space, you sit up higher (planning for future and in laws who had a tough time getting out of the 3); bigger battery (more range, though the SR+ was good, this will eliminate any battery anxiety and we can actually go more back roads); dual motor - a big thing for me as it is safer for when my wife drives in weather like this (light snow).
The SR+ model 3 was our jump in to Tesla and while I loved that car, this one is just that much better.
As for Carvana, they offered me the most money for my car. Couldn't believe it...who pays for these from them when they can pay a grand or a little more for a brand new one? crazy. Was easy to deal with too.
A first for me-I broke a wrench!
The modified PDWA valve arrived, and I started removing the old one with a cheap 7/16" wrench(out of a $10 Walmart set-one of the ones I keep in the car "just in case"). There are 5 hydraulic fittings that go into the valve, and one was being really, really stubborn. I leaned on it, and the next thing I knew the wrench was flying.
Fortunately, I dug out a good old Made in the USA Craftsman, and was able to finish removing it.
Then, I had a head slap moment and remembered that these hydraulic fittings are British standard pipe, and a Whitworth wrench-specifically a 3/16" Whitworth-fits perfectly. Back to my toolbox, and putting the replacement in was a much, much faster job. Now I'm just waiting on my wife to get home to help me bleed it, although I probably should wait until I get the wheel cylinders fitted.
The modified PDWA valve arrived, and I started removing the old one with a cheap 7/16" wrench(out of a $10 Walmart set-one of the ones I keep in the car "just in case"). There are 5 hydraulic fittings that go into the valve, and one was being really, really stubborn. I leaned on it, and the next thing I knew the wrench was flying.
Fortunately, I dug out a good old Made in the USA Craftsman, and was able to finish removing it.
Then, I had a head slap moment and remembered that these hydraulic fittings are British standard pipe, and a Whitworth wrench-specifically a 3/16" Whitworth-fits perfectly. Back to my toolbox, and putting the replacement in was a much, much faster job. Now I'm just waiting on my wife to get home to help me bleed it, although I probably should wait until I get the wheel cylinders fitted.
Your not doing it right. Used to break them all the time when I worked in engineering. The 3 ft steel tube or as we used to call it, persuasion bar helped me break a few!
I suppose not. I have broken a few sockets with a 2' breaker bar, and also twisted off things like extensions and adapters before. One memorable one was when I was using a 1/2" drive torque wrench set to 100ft-lbs to torque down alloy wheels. For the life of me, I couldn't find a 13/16" socket in 1/2" drive, so I stepped it down to a 3/4" drive. I run through 50 ft-lbs, 75ft-lbs, and then get to 100 ft-lbs and the step down twists apart before the wrench even clicked on the first nut.
I had to changed the 2 in my truck a few months ago. $240 each. Ew. 6th time replacing Optimas, no mas. I went back to the OEM brand and hoping for a little more life.
I’d say all the reasons you upgraded are definitely more than reasonable, especially given the ‘dual motor’ is a huge advantage and then when you sit higher, you have such a better visibility of the road and your surroundings. And I like white by the way. Definitely post more pictures in here whenever you get a chance.
And snow in Kentucky? It’s been along time since I’ve been that way, but I didn’t think Kentucky got snow. If you ever want to see a blizzard with White out conditions with snowbanks standing over 7 feet, come see me.😁
What I’ve learned about owning cars over the years, is that consumers want top dollar for there ride when they go to trade it in/sell it out right and as much as Carvana is doing really well with the whole Internet sales, it’s a killer move that they also offered the highest dollar for your ride, and that pushes dealership business further out of the picture.
I generally sell my cars out right, but if I ever decide to sell again in the future, I’ll definitely take a look at Carvana, and it’s partially because I just don’t want play games anymore with dealerships with the back-and-forth scheme of numbers. I just don’t have time for that, I genuinely believe a lot of consumers would probably agree with me on that, especially since some dealerships have already said that Carvana is the future of car buying/trading.
Yeah, we get the sprinkling of snow, which I'm glad we do not get more. I hate the stuff. I'm not far enough south. I'll get more pics when I'm able to and the weather cooperates. I'm still trying to line up a shop to do PPF and also tint my door windows. And I need to clean it, badly.
Yeah, I do not like dealerships...that whole "let me check with the manager on that" and the back/forth is such a waste of time. I"m not young anymore and the thought of spending hours in a dealership just seems so stupid.
FYI, Ford has 2 plants here in Louisville. Looks like they might idle (yet again) the Escape plant:
Ford may idle Louisville Assembly Plant two more weeks
Ford Motor Co.’s Louisville Assembly Plant is tentatively planning to shut down for two additional weeks in late January and early February.