So, another bit of an update...
One of the things I picked up in my 6 hour road trip yesterday was a set of LE wheels which I love. The jury is still out for me on how they will look on my car, but it was $200 for 5 and they had tires at least good enough to roll around/drive around the block and see how I like it(it's a shame to toss 80% tread tires, but they're also 23 years old if not older and most likely cheap tires to begin with).
I'd called someone else I was visiting while up that way, and talked about the wheels a little bit. He said "You know those take special lug nuts, right? Ask Pete if he has them when you get the wheels." I texted and asked, but unfortunately he came up empty.
I did a quick search, and Moss has them but $17 EACH. Shopping around from various suppliers gets them down to $15 each, but that's still a whole lot of money for lug nuts.
Since these are older alloy wheels, I'd assumed I needed shanked nuts. I told Autozone I had a 1980 MGB to see what came up. They showed a set of shanked nuts for $37 for a set of 20-more than I need but also they're $37 for the set. They're chrome and not black, but I figured they'd work for mounting.
I asked on the MG forum if they would suit, and the short answer is no.
I got a really detailed answer from someone who had been through the same with finding them, and here's why:
Most lug nuts are either made with a conical seat or with a shank. The conical seat centers the lug nut center the hole on the stud, while some alloy wheels(particular older ones) are machined tight enough that the shank holds them correctly. So, in other words, it's an either/or deal.
It turns out that the LE wheels require both. They need the conical seat to center them and the shank for support. This is the general structure of them
https://lugnutguys.com/collections/...ts/et-style-bulge-acorn-lug-nut-1-2-20-chrome
If things were easy, I'd order those above-they're certainly cheap enough-and call it a day.
Here's the other snag, though. The LE lugnuts have a .20 shank length. This supports and extends a little past the wheel hub without bottoming out against the drum or rotor. The ones linked above have a .30 shank, which is long enough to bottom out and consequently not seat the taper against the wheel.
The person who gave me that link ended up cutting them down on a lathe to get them to fit. This time last year, I'd have stayed an hour late and work and gotten it done at our small in-department machine shop. Now, I don't have access to a lathe the size I need.
I MAY have a lead on a servicable used set, which is easiest. Otherwise, I'm going to be pulling some favors to see if I can either get some lathe time somewhere or get someone to do it.
Option C...there's a 9" South Bend on Craigslist that needs a little TLC but is cheap and not too far from me. I wonder if my wife would let me put it in the back of the garage