Never heard of it either. I’m not a big fan of extended warranties. Generally your better off saving your money.
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The Car Thread ... !
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Function over design. Sometimes you wish Apple would remember that!I went ahead and got a deal from Discount Tire. Got 16' rims and went with the Michelin Defenders like the ones on my Yaris. It doesn't look as good as the bigger stock rim but the car rides 100% better.
I usually tend to go with OEM rim and tire sizes due to the fact the manufacturer usually tunes the suspension for a specific rim/tire size and also for keeping the accuracy of the speedometer.I went ahead and got a deal from Discount Tire. Got 16' rims and went with the Michelin Defenders like the ones on my Yaris. It doesn't look as good as the bigger stock rim but the car rides 100% better.
I think us Brits have been taught by every consumer watchdog going that extended warranties are unnecessary and cash grabs by companies selling you a product. It seems different in other countries though and a big example of that is AppleCare. It’s popular amongst American users on here but we are told it’s a waste of money. Then again we have better cover generally here I think. In regards to tyres i’ll always take my chances with damage as it’s just unlucky if you get a puncture and it rarely breaks the bank. If I had paid an extra £10-20 insurance per tyre I’d be wanting it to pop on principal lol.
£10-£20 per tyre would not be good. I’ve had about three or four tyre punctures in my lifetime. Got through a lot more tyres than that.
No, no, no. Come on. You know how it works. A new tyre is likely to get a puncture that can’t be repaired. An old worn out tyre never does! It’s Sod’s law.
I know. Just like with plates and cups and stuff. The ones that have dents or are chipped last for ever — it’s the knew and flawless ones that get knocked off the table or fall maybe 5 cm and break completely.
Wouldn’t know about that. We have plates from when we got married sometime last century!
I‘ve used Tire Rack for a long time. Installed by a local approved shop for the warranty. Great service and customer support. 👍
My tyres are £140+ a pop, so I'd pay the £40 - £80 to insure all 4 tyres.
In the South of England there is continuous, 365 days a year building and development work taking place with new housing estates, lorry depots and offices been constructed. This has led to loads of loose builders rubbish and tools being stroon on the roads. The amount of screws and blades I've had in tyres due to careless builders not securing their van gear/rubbish is not funny. As soon as one development starts and I change routes to avoid it, another starts somewhere else.
And there's the loose rubble chipping my car paint......can't have nice things.
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My tyres are £140+ a pop, so I'd pay the £40 - £80 to insure all 4 tyres.
In the South of England there is continuous, 365 days a year building and development work taking place with new housing estates, lorry depots and offices been constructed. This has led to loads of loose builders rubbish and tools being stroon on the roads. The amount of screws and blades I've had in tyres due to careless builders not securing their van gear/rubbish is not funny. As soon as one development starts and I change routes to avoid it, another starts somewhere else.
It would certainly great to have the option. The tyres on my CRV were £120 each (225/60 R18) but I don’t have a regular issue with punctures. It has happened but not so often as I’d pay additional insurance on them.
At least here, when I've had "lifetime" warranties and needed a replacement, the full replacement was only good for ~1 year from purchase I think. Past there, the replacement has been pro-rated based on miles driven on the tire vs. the rated life. It's still not terrible when you lose one with ~30,000 miles on it and you're only on the hook for half the price or so.
Granted the last time I had a tire replaced under road hazard, it was because it had bubbled. The tire wasn't super old(maybe a year and a half). They billed me something like 1/3 the cost. Within two months, the other three had bubbled.
I took it back in and had a serious talk with them. Basically, even though they claimed bubbled "only" come from curbing tires or other impact damage, I pointed out the fact that all four had bubbled within 3 months, and with nearly identical sizes and locations. They looked at the other three, then called me that afternoon and said they'd be replacing all of them at no charge.
BTW, these weren't cheap tires. They were Michelin MXM4s that were around $250 each IIRC in that size(I think I was at $1200 out the door for all four). Fortunately the replacements have held up well. Still, though, after having four do it, I'm tempted to go with Bridgestones when these are ready to be cycled out.
Granted the last time I had a tire replaced under road hazard, it was because it had bubbled. The tire wasn't super old(maybe a year and a half). They billed me something like 1/3 the cost. Within two months, the other three had bubbled.
I took it back in and had a serious talk with them. Basically, even though they claimed bubbled "only" come from curbing tires or other impact damage, I pointed out the fact that all four had bubbled within 3 months, and with nearly identical sizes and locations. They looked at the other three, then called me that afternoon and said they'd be replacing all of them at no charge.
BTW, these weren't cheap tires. They were Michelin MXM4s that were around $250 each IIRC in that size(I think I was at $1200 out the door for all four). Fortunately the replacements have held up well. Still, though, after having four do it, I'm tempted to go with Bridgestones when these are ready to be cycled out.
I got my Fiat back on Saturday. It cost me $100, total bill somewhere in the $8-9k range, still waiting on paperwork. It drives nice.
I’m sobered by the fact that if it had been me paying the cost, not under warranty, I would have likely sold it for scrap. 🤔
Sorry I missed this reply before now. I just assumed lifetime would mean as long as I owned the car, but realize that might be a foolish notion.
So now I have either a new or rebuilt engine, and a standard transmission which usually hold up well, so this car may continue to provide years of service.Regarding buying out a warranty, would that be what they deem is the current value of that model car, that age, in decent running condition?
The only thing I'm always wondering about though - does the local tire shop like or care that I didn't buy the tires from them?
Am I pissing them off that they didn't get their cut on the tire sale?
Ive never felt that reaction. They are compensated a certain percentage by Tire Rack for the service. It’s all built into the overall pricing structure of Tire Rack.
Just echoing here:
I don’t suspect there’s a better source than Tire rack on the market, and not just in terms of selection, but the customer service to boot and incredibly fast shipping. Totally agree with what you said, and that’s coming from a long time customer of theirs.
Understandable. It doesn't void the warranty though for me since it's still within manufacturer specs. Less rim but more tire, it's the same circumference according to Discount Tire.
Those 17' rims had barely any tires available unfortunately.
FINALLY have the MG back on the road after I quit dragging my feet.
Total list of things done:
Remove all rear suspension components
Clean/sandblast and paint all brackets
Replace suspension hardware
Replace suspension bushings with polyurethane bushings
Remove hub and brake backing plate, sandblast, paint.
Replace hub seal
Reassemble brakes with new cylinders, adjusters, and hardware including springs(ebrake lever reused, so cleaned and painted)
Reassemble hubs
Drain differential(tip-do it more often than once every 50 years-the oil is nasty)
General clean-up of differential, clean and sandblast cover and plaint
Reassemble with new gasket. Note that MG axles require GL-4 spec gear oil, which you most likely won't find at your local auto parts store. The current spec is GL-5, which is listed as backwards compatible, but the thrust washers in MG axles are bronze and GL-5 doesn't play nice with yellow metals
Fill with gear oil-Sta-lube 85W90 GL-4
Derust and paint rear axle
Remove old brake lines and flex hose to rear axle
Cut and flare Cu-Ni tubing with the proper bubble flares and fit with Girling type flare nuts(not easy to find, but there's a GREAT supplier for anything brake related I found)
Route tubing and secure with clips and clams as appropriate
Bleed brakes(surprisingly stubborn to do)
Disassemble Armstrong lever action shocks
Drain 50 year old(nasty and smelly)
Clean shocks by flooding and working fresh oil through
Reassemble
Fill with the correct amount of the correct oil. There is expensive shock fluid out there rated at SAE 20 which works, and is about $15/qt. On the advice of the Armstrong shock expert, I bought a 2 gallon jug of AEW68 hydraulic oil for $12 at Rural King. Filling is a surprisingly fiddly task that involves filling most of the body, sealing it up, then fill through the valve port while slowly working the arm back and forth to be sure the oil is everywhere it needs to be and there are no bubbles. This is tedious as working the arm too fast can introduce bubbles, and working them out too fast also cause oil to either spit out or foam
This turned into a lot of work, but I shouldn't ever have to do it again.
BTW, this is all under the category of "maintenance" and not "Breaking down", even though I've been accused of the car "breaking down a lot" in this thread. Old cars need more routine and preventative maintenance than new cars(find something in production where you actually take the shocks apart rather than just buying a replacement you drop in) and while doing other tasks sometimes it's worthwhile to do other things with unknown history or while access is easy.
Total list of things done:
Remove all rear suspension components
Clean/sandblast and paint all brackets
Replace suspension hardware
Replace suspension bushings with polyurethane bushings
Remove hub and brake backing plate, sandblast, paint.
Replace hub seal
Reassemble brakes with new cylinders, adjusters, and hardware including springs(ebrake lever reused, so cleaned and painted)
Reassemble hubs
Drain differential(tip-do it more often than once every 50 years-the oil is nasty)
General clean-up of differential, clean and sandblast cover and plaint
Reassemble with new gasket. Note that MG axles require GL-4 spec gear oil, which you most likely won't find at your local auto parts store. The current spec is GL-5, which is listed as backwards compatible, but the thrust washers in MG axles are bronze and GL-5 doesn't play nice with yellow metals
Fill with gear oil-Sta-lube 85W90 GL-4
Derust and paint rear axle
Remove old brake lines and flex hose to rear axle
Cut and flare Cu-Ni tubing with the proper bubble flares and fit with Girling type flare nuts(not easy to find, but there's a GREAT supplier for anything brake related I found)
Route tubing and secure with clips and clams as appropriate
Bleed brakes(surprisingly stubborn to do)
Disassemble Armstrong lever action shocks
Drain 50 year old(nasty and smelly)
Clean shocks by flooding and working fresh oil through
Reassemble
Fill with the correct amount of the correct oil. There is expensive shock fluid out there rated at SAE 20 which works, and is about $15/qt. On the advice of the Armstrong shock expert, I bought a 2 gallon jug of AEW68 hydraulic oil for $12 at Rural King. Filling is a surprisingly fiddly task that involves filling most of the body, sealing it up, then fill through the valve port while slowly working the arm back and forth to be sure the oil is everywhere it needs to be and there are no bubbles. This is tedious as working the arm too fast can introduce bubbles, and working them out too fast also cause oil to either spit out or foam
This turned into a lot of work, but I shouldn't ever have to do it again.
BTW, this is all under the category of "maintenance" and not "Breaking down", even though I've been accused of the car "breaking down a lot" in this thread. Old cars need more routine and preventative maintenance than new cars(find something in production where you actually take the shocks apart rather than just buying a replacement you drop in) and while doing other tasks sometimes it's worthwhile to do other things with unknown history or while access is easy.
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I’m a bit early, but happy Fourth of July!
This is the one car I wish I had time to drive more, but I do think it’s more of a track car, because it’s that violent in terms of how it pulls. (Over 650 HP/550 TQ)
Meet my Camaro:
So here’s the details:
It’s 5th Gen Camaro with a stage two Edelbrock belt driven supercharger, with a Lingenfelter performance fuel pump, Kooks long tube headers [as photoed], Flowmaster catback exhaust, MSD wires/NGK plugs, 3.91 rear end gears, and a GPI SS4 cam, Air-raid intake with carbon fiber trim and custom ‘Chip Foose’ wheels. This is a 2SS trim, so it comes with everything from HID headlights, Boston Acoustics sound system, leather/stitched, ambient LED controls ,etc.
I mentioned a while back, I purchased it from an older gentleman, who spent a lot of money, and never really drove it, I just turned it over at 6000 miles today, and I plan on driving it more for this holiday weekend. I’ve owned a lot of sports cars, but you can’t even find dirt or grease anywhere in the engine bay, it’s that clean and it was never driven in the rain.
This is the one car I wish I had time to drive more, but I do think it’s more of a track car, because it’s that violent in terms of how it pulls. (Over 650 HP/550 TQ)
Meet my Camaro:
So here’s the details:
It’s 5th Gen Camaro with a stage two Edelbrock belt driven supercharger, with a Lingenfelter performance fuel pump, Kooks long tube headers [as photoed], Flowmaster catback exhaust, MSD wires/NGK plugs, 3.91 rear end gears, and a GPI SS4 cam, Air-raid intake with carbon fiber trim and custom ‘Chip Foose’ wheels. This is a 2SS trim, so it comes with everything from HID headlights, Boston Acoustics sound system, leather/stitched, ambient LED controls ,etc.
I mentioned a while back, I purchased it from an older gentleman, who spent a lot of money, and never really drove it, I just turned it over at 6000 miles today, and I plan on driving it more for this holiday weekend. I’ve owned a lot of sports cars, but you can’t even find dirt or grease anywhere in the engine bay, it’s that clean and it was never driven in the rain.
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Pretty eventful day. This was the main highlight I got to drive, which is my neighbors 2002 Viper GTS-ACR. Only 1of 25 actually made in this color. As much as it is fun to drive, the ground clearance is exactly 4 inches, so you literally feel every bump in the road, but nonetheless, a lifetime experience that I will never forget. The exhaust note on this car is like nothing I’ve ever heard before, just totally unique with the burble from the V10 and screams once you hit about 6000 RPM.
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