The seller most likely won’t agree to my conditions, drive 40 miles to submit the car for a mechanic inspection, and if we don’t like what he finds, I’ll give you $50 for your inconvenience. That inspection would cost me $89.
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The Car Thread ... !
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That doesn't make a lot of sense, does it? Repair something investing $12k and then sell it for $2k less? Maybe better look for something else.I believe this car had serious structural damage, it was totaled and I don’t know how accurate the CarFax report is, but it says it was totaled, the rebuilt with $12k in repairs to get it into running condition. Now it’s up for sale for $10k.
I got talking to the guy who repaired my car about repairs. He was telling me that he knew two Polish guys who would straighten a twisted chassis with two trolly jacks and a wall. I’d rather not get into cars with that sort of repairs!
I believe this car had serious structural damage, it was totaled and I don’t know how accurate the CarFax report is, but it says it was totaled, the rebuilt with $12k in repairs to get it into running condition. Now it’s up for sale for $10k.
Good news, the car was sold to someone else, potential bullet avoided, wife and grandson mad at me.
Probably a good thing. There’s always other vehicles out there.Good news, the car was sold to someone else, potential bullet avoided, wife and grandson mad at me.
Years back, [I think it was 2016], I was looking at a Corvette Z06, it was clean with low mileage. But the price was oddly low, which I didn’t suspect anything at the time until I arrived to look at it. It was only then that the owner told me it was ‘rebranded’ as a lemon. The owner was completely sketch, he didn’t even indicate in the listing anything about it was a lemon vehicle, but he would ‘work with me on the price’.
***Edit***
Upon further research, the vehicle came back from having flood damage. There are certain things I would stray away from, anything with water and major structural damage. There are some steals out there for vehicles with re-branded titles, but there are so many risk that follow, I’d almost recommend a third-party warranty to be purchased on the side for situations like that.
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Absolutely on the water damage. I had a leak in 2 Ford’s. One I tried to get fixed. Spent a lot at the garage and it stopped for a while. The second I just dried out and PX’d.
Arriving mid-2022.
Subarus all new fully electric SUV….
The ‘Solterra’……
[Teaser photos].
www.motor1.com
Subarus all new fully electric SUV….
The ‘Solterra’……
[Teaser photos].
2023 Subaru Solterra Electric Crossover Teased In Revealing Images
The Subaru Solterra will be the brand's first EV. The electric crossover makes an appearance in some very revealing teaser images.
Traded our 2018 Honda CRV EX 1.6 Diesel Auto for a 2018 Peugeot 3008 GT Line 1.6 Diesel Auto. Took advantage of trade in values and made £2k in 8 months on our CRV.
I’m amazed how old tech the Honda was in terms of the stereo, connectivity and gearbox. Happy now though.
I’m amazed how old tech the Honda was in terms of the stereo, connectivity and gearbox. Happy now though.
I’m surprised. I’d have assumed the Honda would be ahead of its competition when it comes to tech. Enjoy.Traded our 2018 Honda CRV EX 1.6 Diesel Auto for a 2018 Peugeot 3008 GT Line 1.6 Diesel Auto. Took advantage of trade in values and made £2k in 8 months on our CRV.
I’m amazed how old tech the Honda was in terms of the stereo, connectivity and gearbox. Happy now though.
The current models have CarPlay etc but the Mk4 that I had, although a 2018, actually had an infotainment system that had been used since 2012. Our iPhones straggled to stay connected and the Garmin Nav in it was appalling. My wife likes to use Waze and there was just no way of mirroring Waze from an iPhone onto the stereo screen. We spent a couple of months on Honda forums and in contact with Honda themselves but had no solution. The best answer we got was to replace the entire head unit with a Pioneer version at a cost of around £1k. I wasn’t happy to do that and we ended up car hunting. The Peugeot had good reviews and is a much smoother and more refined drive than the CRV.
A comparison between the dash of both:
CRV:
The Peugeot 3008:
That’s like my Golf. The year after mine got CarPlay. Mine uses the VW sat Nav. It’s okay. No issues with BT connection or music playing etc. though.The current models have CarPlay etc but the Mk4 that I had, although a 2018, actually had an infotainment system that had been used since 2012. Our iPhones straggled to stay connected and the Garmin Nav in it was appalling. My wife likes to use Waze and there was just no way of mirroring Waze from an iPhone onto the stereo screen. We spent a couple of months on Honda forums and in contact with Honda themselves but had no solution. The best answer we got was to replace the entire head unit with a Pioneer version at a cost of around £1k. I wasn’t happy to do that and we ended up car hunting. The Peugeot had good reviews and is a much smoother and more refined drive than the CRV.
A comparison between the dash of both:
CRV:
The Peugeot 3008:
The rear of the Peugeot strangely resembles the Ford Mustang [electric] Mach-E, which is obviously available in North America. Cool design though.Traded our 2018 Honda CRV EX 1.6 Diesel Auto for a 2018 Peugeot 3008 GT Line 1.6 Diesel Auto. Took advantage of trade in values and made £2k in 8 months on our CRV.
I’ve watched a few reviews on YouTube that have made that connection too. The tiny steering wheel takes a bit of getting used to, but it’s a nice drive.
By the way, many say the Subaru Solterra is essentially a Subaru-badged version of the Toyota bZ4X.
I haven’t driven in a Peugeot in half a decade since I moved to Canada, is it a comfy and soft ride or more on the sporty side?
I’d say soft over bumps but very planted in corners. It does have a sports mode that stiffens the ride along with adjusting the gearbox too. It’s the first French car I’ve owned or driven in more than 7 years and Peugeot have definitely upped their game.
Two drops today:
2022 Chevy Silverado [6.2l] ZR2:
Personally, this is what I would get if I was in the truck market. This is in direct competition to the Ford Raptor, and quite frankly, I’d say Chevy nailed its, and a completely redesigned interior that looks really well modernized and flows without being to spaced out with cheap plastic.
www.thedrive.com
********************************
2022 Subaru WRX:
Turbocharged 2.4-liter ‘ flat-four’with a 6-speed manual or CVT.
www.caranddriver.com
2022 Chevy Silverado [6.2l] ZR2:
Personally, this is what I would get if I was in the truck market. This is in direct competition to the Ford Raptor, and quite frankly, I’d say Chevy nailed its, and a completely redesigned interior that looks really well modernized and flows without being to spaced out with cheap plastic.
2022 Chevy Silverado ZR2: 6.2L V8, Front and Rear Lockers, and DSSV Dampers in a Full-Size Truck
GM's off-road halo model isn't quite a Raptor fighter, and it might be better for it.
www.thedrive.com
********************************
2022 Subaru WRX:
Turbocharged 2.4-liter ‘ flat-four’with a 6-speed manual or CVT.
271-HP 2022 Subaru WRX Sticks to Its Roots
The third-generation WRX is powered by a 271-hp turbocharged 2.4-liter flat-four and adds a new GT model with adaptive dampers.
Who here has restored their plastic headlight covers due to oxidation? On my 2012 Fiat 500 I‘ve noticed the top third of my head light assembly has gotten frosty looking. I ordered an inexpensive ($17) Meguiar’s Two Step Restoration Kit. Guaranteed for a year.
My impression was the process is to buff out the oxidation and put a coating on the surface. But now that I am reading the directions It says to buff the entire lense until it has a “frosty” appearance and then spray the surface with a coating that I guess makes it clear again.
Is there a way, or a different process where only the oxidized portion is treated? I am hesitant to rough up (make it frosty looking) the entire lense if part of the lense does not need it.
So my question is, this how all these restoration kits work? My possible misimpression is that I would only be treating the oxidized portion of the lense. Advice? Thanks…
My impression was the process is to buff out the oxidation and put a coating on the surface. But now that I am reading the directions It says to buff the entire lense until it has a “frosty” appearance and then spray the surface with a coating that I guess makes it clear again.
Is there a way, or a different process where only the oxidized portion is treated? I am hesitant to rough up (make it frosty looking) the entire lense if part of the lense does not need it.
So my question is, this how all these restoration kits work? My possible misimpression is that I would only be treating the oxidized portion of the lense. Advice? Thanks…
The plastic wind screen on my 1983 Honda VF750 was completely oxidized, no replacements to be found. I used liquid Comet cleanser, worked like champ, completely clear now. Only a few bucks for a bottle. Works great on alloy wheels too.
This is how they work. I picked up a 2003 325i as my commuter. Here is a picture of me completing one side. You have to sand the full lens, then wipe on a UV coating that does in fact make it clear. Some of the older kits used several stages of sanding and a polishing wheel, without the UV coating.
Ok guys thanks for the replies.This is how they work. I picked up a 2003 325i as my commuter. Here is a picture of me completing one side. You have to sand the full lens, then wipe on a UV coating that does in fact make it clear. Some of the older kits used several stages of sanding and a polishing wheel, without the UV coating.
For clarification, instructions on the package say rub the liquid on the entire lense until it has a frosted appearance. To me this means I am ruffing the entire lense up. Is this your experience, when you wipe this on the lense does it make it look ”frosty” because you are ruffing it up, until the liquid is applied?
The kit I used required I sand the entire lens until it was cloudy. Then there is a "wet wipe" that is a UV coating that you wipe on the lens (wiping horizontally with slight overlaps) that once dries leaves the lens crystal clear.
You probably could do just a part of it, if you tape off the rest of the lens. But you would end up seeing a line where the new coating is vs. the old. If it wont bother you, go for it. I'm not sure anyone but you would notice the line, or the difference in the coatings.
The headlight lenses on my car are rounded and it’s the top third hit by the sun which is oxidized. I realize you can always find some reviews negative reviews for any product, but the first kit I bought where it was the liquid and some rubbing alone that frosted up the lense, a couple of reviews called the product garbage and claimed it ruined the headlights. I facilitated a credit through Amazon and have since ordered a 3M product (3M Headlight Lens Restoration System, 39008).
Any idea how long this treatment might last? I’m wondering if once you do this if you are now going to be attending to it on an annual basis, or if repeated treatments will at some point, not produce a satisfactory result?
I did it on my aftermarket headlight housings on my Ram a couple years ago (this was the kind that required sanding, and buffing and polishing). So far it is good. This was not the kind that had a UV coating.
On my BMW in that picture, I did that back in early March 2021, so far it is good, no idea of how it will look next year. The OEM lenses for the e46 BMW of my year are about $100 to replace. I was driving from TN to NY in a couple days, so I didn't have time to order replacements. It looks good enough that I still haven't ordered replacements, so far...
I assume that the UV coating will rub off. If so, another coating wouldn't be hard to do. Or even a spray on UV Clear coat may be a good option over time.