It is a solid, luxurious automobile. You pay a significant premium for the L on the grille, but that's a matter of personal taste and some people find the extra luxury worth it.
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The Car Thread ... !
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What can you suggest that is just as good without the premium price? Thank you
No problem. So the obvious cross shop is the mainstream equivalent of the RX, the Toyota Highlander. Both use similar engines (this is from comparing the 2014 models), so you're really not losing a lot. Interior wise, the Highlander isn't the RX, but you can get something pretty nice for a better price.
In the same vein as the Highlander, consider the Honda Pilot, Nissan Murano, and Hyundai Santa Fe.
In terms of lower priced luxury (new) SUVs, there really doesn't appear to be a better bet than the RX. The Volvo XC90, however, gets really good reviews.
The new Volvo XC90 is basically $60-70k loaded-up, so more priced on par with BMW/Audi/MB, instead of Lexus and even lower-end, Acura. The X5, ML, Q7, XC90 are one class higher than the RX, MDX, Infiniti QX-WTFIDK in terms of pricing.
And I agree with your idea. If you're looking at a Lexus RX or Acura MDX, I'd highly suggest taking a long and hard look at the Toyota Highlander and Honda Pilot. They are basically 95% car for cheaper. For example, the new 2016 Pilot comes with the same 9 speed transmission and safety tech as the new MDX. However, the new Lexus RX is a few months out, so I can't compare the 2016 Highlander with the 2016 RX yet.
There's a reason why the Lexus RX is the best selling luxury SUV year after year. Fantastic quality, insane resale value, and bulletproof reliability. You pay extra for the Lexus badge on the front, but IMO it's worth every penny, especially when it comes to customer service
If you're in the market for a new RX right now, I'd suggest that you wait a few months. The new 2016 RX is about to come out.
My brother had a 2013 RDX that he traded in for a Mercedes-Benz GLK250 Blutec within 6 months of purchase, so that should tell you something. It's super economical with the V6 and it doesn't drive bad, but I can't ignore how cheaply built the whole thing feels inside and out. It's a fancy CRV and feels like it. You've already touched on all the issues I have with it, such as no rear AC vents and such. The NAV felt archaic too.
They seem to have fixed all of those issues with the 2016 RDX where they added the ugly LED headlights, rear AC vents, and the terrible dual-screen Acura NAV setup.
I guess if your friend is looking for a bulletproof "luxury" car, one can't go wrong with the RDX. It is about $10k cheaper than the equivalent Q5, GLK, X3, and $20k cheaper than the equivalent Macan. If you're not expecting German levels of performance/driving dynamics/fit and finish, it's a good choice. However, if I was forced to go Japanese in this segment, my money is on the Lexus NX. It's a better car on so many levels.
Well everyone..... Update: I dropped the tyre off today for the mechanic to look at. He told me there was a nail in it. Now whether i picked up this nail or this nail was in the tyre already I don't know. However, I ran an errand with the Woo and it's spare. Came home to smell brake burn. Put som water on the driver front wheel and it steamed like mad (even a little smoke beforehand). Seems the problem ISN't fixed (so the drag WASN'T in my head.) I told the mechanic the problem when he called to tell me the tyre is fixed. He said bring it in monday it may be a hose or something. So, the Woo's going back into the doctor Monday. Strangely this time around I don't think its a seized caliper as I still get 26 MPG and there is no solid pedal or left pull. Let's hope this gets fixed with as LITTLE cost as possible! UGH!!!!!!
My mom looked into an RX after the amazing ownership of her ES350. Historically she's owned Volvos and a few other European brands interspersed. Her ES had ZERO non-maintence related repairs. Maintenance was minimal- fluid changes, tire changes, and preventative maintenance (water pump). A light bulb didn't even burn out. She liked the RX until she actually got inside. It doesn't have quite the feel of a European car, which she missed. The ride is boring and the interior is hideous and asymmetrical. I think what really sells the RX is the reliability and superb residual value.
My mom switched back to her Volvos. Her 2015 XC70 T6 started off fine, but has been nothing but problems for the past month. It's been in the shop 3x in the past month. It's had suspension issues (bushings), coil pack failure, the infotainment screen died, an oil leak, and a couple comparably minor issues. Her previous Volvos have always been pretty decent reliability wise, her XC90 had some annoying problems come up towards the end (130,000 miles/4 years), but nothing like this in such a short amount of time.
My thoughts exactly. It's a good value compared to some of the "competition" (which seems to be a step above), but is lacking some really essential features (non-power passenger seat on non-tech models, really). The interior isn't bad, but seems to have been transplanted from a Honda. The "luxury" feel feels a bit more like top trim mainstream family car. If you want to stay out of the European sector, you're really limited in your options. I was looking at the Lexus NX. It's an interesting car, but it's packages/options are setup like the Germans. The base price is entertaining ($34,500 FWD, $36,000 AWD). By the time you throw in decent amenities you're at $50,000. It seems the RDX could have a lot of potential, but Acura, par for the course in recent history, makes some odd decisions.
Why didn't you just throw 6 cans of fix-a-flat at it? What parts did they replace before on the Daewoo? Didn't you say there was something wrong with the vacuum system? Regardless, as I remember you have CAM(or CPS) codes, MAF codes, 02 codes, etc. It's likely whatever is causing your emissions issues is screwing up the efficiency optimization.
Agreed. There is nothing you can fault the RX for. It's everything you would want in a SUV - quality, durability, reliability, utility, space, comfort all starting at $40k. My uncle has two of them, both on the AL10 - one is pre-facelift and one is facelift, that's how good it is.
Surprised no one mentioned the 2016 GMC Arcadia Denali
Would rather buy this over the RX and anything else in its range... Has a bulletproof powertrain
Would rather buy this over the RX and anything else in its range... Has a bulletproof powertrain
That is grotesque. I'm not sure GMC is even a competitor anyways. That looks like something I would pick up from Hertz when I'm away for work.
Not to mention, it won't hold a candle to Lexus when it comes to resale, quality, and reliability in the long-term. Not even on the same planet.
I tried to rent a Mustang GT from Hertz, but was unable to find any of the "adrenaline" cars in my area. I thought it might be fun, if I can find a company that has them.
I have to agree with you. GM's midsize SUV's are atrocious. They're too long and stationwagon-esque. The proportions just are not correct on any of their SUV's aside from maybe the Tahoe. The Acadia/Traverse/Encore wheelbase is too long in proportion to the rear window or something. Enclave looks like an eggplant on wheels*. This whole bad proportions thing started with the Envoy XL. The Trax/Encore is too tall compared to it's length.
The 2015 MSRP is $48,000 on the Acadia Denali. Maybe these are popular outside of New England, but I think people will stick to their Highlanders, MDX, RX350's, Q7's, X5's, LR4's etc.
*This is the most accurate statement I have ever made.
Well I would of used fix-a-flat, problem is the stems are too short (I tried) cant get the hose on the stems. Fix-a-flat DID fix the tyre that went flat on the Impala. Impala needs 2 more cans.
Strangely, the car DID have O2, MAP, MAF, Cam codes, However WHEN i had the guy hook his scan computer the only codes was P3112 Cam sensor code. The MAP and MAF codes can be explained perhaps they triggered the other codes.
Certain codes can trigger other codes. For instance, my Suburban had a code for a bad coolant temperature sensor which caused it to run rich and trigger an O2 sensor code. Cam sensors and MAP sensors should be unrelated however...
Yeah, it's the perfect luxury car for 95% of buyers. The only issue is the terrible Lexus Remote Touch system. I doubt the average Lexus owner knows how to use it.
Try airports. That's the only place where I can find "fun" cars.
LOL, this is so true. The Enclave is one hideous looking SUV, especially in the typical Buick beige. They're all pretty ugly IMO.
None of the GM midsize SUVs hold a candle to the Japanese competition when it comes to quality, technology, fit/finish, reliability, and resale. I don't get the whole "buy GMC because it's American" non-sense. They're still trash, when comparing them to the equivalent Toyota and Honda.
Ford, on the other hand, seems to be doing a better job. The Explorer is a nice SUV.
$48k? What a joke. $48k can buy me a MDX, Highlander Platinum, or Pilot Touring Elite.
Thankfully, people around here are immune to junk. That's probably the reason why the Highlander, Pilot, X5, RX, Q5, Q7, etc are dime a dozen around here.
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Exactly. Not to mention, Lexus know how to take care of their customer.
This is not very comforting to hear. My father seems to be interested in the new Volvo XC90 for himself. It's a very nice car! I'm glad to see Volvo gets its mojo back, but the price is a little nuts.
You nailed it. I didn't realize the NX got so expensive. I built a NX200t with AWD for $48k just now.
The RDX could have had a lot of potential if they treated Acura like a real luxury brand. None of this fancy Honda non-sense. That includes material quality, fit and finish, etc.
Only 6!? I'd throw in a dozen cans... for good measure of course!
Meh, when it comes to RDX size, I would just go with the 2XT Subaru Forester. True AWD for those people who drive around in the snow standard and way better visibility.
As I mentioned a few pages back, I had an unfortunate "incident" with the frame of the garage door and a side view mirror. I was able to(with the help of someone else at work) get it wired on in such a way that it was at least tightly attached, albeit very ugly.
I was able to buy one in the correct color off a salvage car on Ebay. The mirror arrived on Wednesday, and I decided to tackle it this afternoon.
Here's the new one awaiting installation
Of course, the first step is removing the door panel. I've done it once before, so fortunately wasn't completely lost. It has 5 screws, and the handle has to be pulled out for clearance. Other than that, it's pretty straight foward-I just worked a screwdriver around the edge to help popping the clips.
Evidence of my last incursion is, unfortunately, there. The window regulator on this side broke a few years ago. I ended up letting a mechanic finish the repair-the duct tape is theirs.
The top trim piece, along with more self-adhesive foam had to come off to give access to the mirror bolts.
From there, it was just a matter of removing the bolts and getting the old mirror off. Because of the way it was attached, I made heavy use of the diagonal cutters.
I didn't pause to take pictures of the intermediate steps, but once the three bolts are removed the mirror is lifted off and the cable threaded through the insulating foam. The cable on the new one threaded back through the hole and the mirror is set in place-I held it with my left hand while I tightened one of the bolts finger-tight using a socket and extension to keep the new one from falling off. I then installed the other bolts and snugged all of them down good.
I checked to make sure the power mirror worked, then "buttoned it back up." Installing the door panel is relatively easy-the clips are lined up, and the panel given a few good "whacks" to seat everything. The screws can then be installed.
And, the new mirror in place
Finally, the last remnants of the old one
I'm glad to have this done-even though it was functional, the appearance was driving me nuts!
I was able to buy one in the correct color off a salvage car on Ebay. The mirror arrived on Wednesday, and I decided to tackle it this afternoon.
Here's the new one awaiting installation
Of course, the first step is removing the door panel. I've done it once before, so fortunately wasn't completely lost. It has 5 screws, and the handle has to be pulled out for clearance. Other than that, it's pretty straight foward-I just worked a screwdriver around the edge to help popping the clips.
Evidence of my last incursion is, unfortunately, there. The window regulator on this side broke a few years ago. I ended up letting a mechanic finish the repair-the duct tape is theirs.
The top trim piece, along with more self-adhesive foam had to come off to give access to the mirror bolts.
From there, it was just a matter of removing the bolts and getting the old mirror off. Because of the way it was attached, I made heavy use of the diagonal cutters.
I didn't pause to take pictures of the intermediate steps, but once the three bolts are removed the mirror is lifted off and the cable threaded through the insulating foam. The cable on the new one threaded back through the hole and the mirror is set in place-I held it with my left hand while I tightened one of the bolts finger-tight using a socket and extension to keep the new one from falling off. I then installed the other bolts and snugged all of them down good.
I checked to make sure the power mirror worked, then "buttoned it back up." Installing the door panel is relatively easy-the clips are lined up, and the panel given a few good "whacks" to seat everything. The screws can then be installed.
And, the new mirror in place
Finally, the last remnants of the old one
I'm glad to have this done-even though it was functional, the appearance was driving me nuts!
I think it looked better the the zip ties. It gave the car character"
The MAP sensor was triggered when i removed the electrical connector to it while the engine was running to see if the engine ran any better. The MAF sensor code was most likely tripped 2 years ago when i replaced the thermostat for the 1st time. I removed the top section of the air box and the tube to the throttlebody for better access to the thermostat housing bolts. (A step I realized I didn't even need to take. I cleaned the throttlebody and unplugged the MAF sensor's wiring connection to free the hose. As for the O2 sensor, not sure if the Cam sensor triggered that, of if unplugging them MAP sensor trggered that. The code the cam sensor is P03112 but he may have wrote that down wrong as OBDII codes end in the P0800 series.
I plan to replace the Impala's mirror next month. I will take pics like you did. Of course, I'll have to paint it 1st.
Yes, I know. Yanking the ECM fuse did that task perfectly. Hence why only the Cam sensor code exists