The switches come with cables and only these cables work with the ASD (at least for me)
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Two computers and one Studio Display?
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The switches come with cables and only these cables work with the ASD (at least for me)
Not for me! Ha.
Day 1 with the ASD: works wonderfully when plugged directly into my MacBook Air. Other than that…the stuff I’ve tried has been a total BUST!!!!
Bust 1: The YIWENTEC switch doesn’t give me 5k60 no matter what from the MBA. Just 4K. Not much flickering with the cables that came with the switch. The Cable Matters cables…absolute flickering mess. I tried flipping the cables over too (just because someone mentioned that upthread) to no avail. So this switch will be going back…the “Ver 2” CableDeconn should be here Friday to try out.
Bust 2: So with that not working, I figured I’d try the magnetic connectors route in the meantime. Well…I don’t know if I got a faulty set or what but they do NOT work at all for me!! With a TB4 extension from the ASD, to the ASD TB4 cable from the MacBook via the mag connector…totally crap performance. Flickering down to no signal at all. These seem to be a total bust which I was shocked to find since so many reported success with them!
Bust 3: I can’t get any signal at all on tha ASD from my work PC. I posted about this in detail on another “ASD / PC Compatibility” thread:
The gist is…the PC recognizes the ASD but the display remains blacked out like it’s off / nothing connected. Was surprised this didn’t work as the PC has TB outs on it. Kinda expected it to work out of the box!
Other than LOVING the ASD with the MBA…and I do love it…kinda ended up being a letdown of a day. But not losing hope on getting this setup working!! Even if I have to just plug cables to switch…I really hope to get it working!
Good luck @guitarguy19
Seems like a hit or miss with these switches. CableDeconn didn't work for me, (2 M1 MBPs connected to ASD), but YIWENTEC did (even though the two look identical).
Seems like a hit or miss with these switches. CableDeconn didn't work for me, (2 M1 MBPs connected to ASD), but YIWENTEC did (even though the two look identical).
Thanks!
Super strange how these things are working so differently for different applications. Makes no sense.
I’ll report back with results on the CableDeconn, if nothing else to add a datapoint for y’all.
Whelp…same story with the CableDeconn…flickery non-working mess.
I think my solution is just going to be old fashioned plugging and unplugging to make the change from PC to MBA. I do have a TB4 40gbps extension on the ASD, so I’ll just be wrecking the ports of the TB4 cable that came with the ASD and another TB4 cable I ordered from OWC that hopefully will work consistently with the PC.
One good thing has been the MXKeys keyboard into the back of the ASD has worked flawlessly since day 1 when switching between laptops…so no headaches there!
Meanwhile SSI has apparently announced a new version of their TB4 switch but I guess they still have no one reselling these (since SSI only manufactures for companies to resell under their own brands and doesn't sell directly to end users). I just don't get why Anker, Plugable, CalDigit, OWC, Startech, Sabrent, or any of the others doesn't rebrand SSI's SI-452 or SI-453 yet. Do they think there isn't a big enough market? It actually appears that many of those companies already rebrand other SSI products.
Here's what I do that works well (I use this setup with one of the LG Ultrafine monitors, but that has the same port configuration as the ASD).
I have 2 MB Pros (my work machine, and my personal machine) that I use with one monitor.
I use the Plugable tbt3-udv Thunderbolt 3 docking station. Found it used for $110. I'm sure there are other docking stations out there, but this one has worked great for me. I have my mouse, keyboard, and audio speakers plugged into the docking station. All I need to do do switch monitors is plug the thunderbolt cable coming out of the docking station into the Macbook I want to use.
It takes just seconds to move the Thunderbolt cable (I have both laptops next to each other), and all peripherals work with whichever laptop I'm using. I used to use a monitor with a built in KVM switch, as well as trying other KVM switch options, and this way actually works quite a bit faster - as there was always a 10-20 second delay with KVM switches, and every KVM switch I've ever used was buggy. Sometimes they worked, and other times they didn't, and I'd have to reset my monitor, etc..
As far as drawbacks of this setup? The main one is that you need to use a USB mouse & keyboard (so I can't use my magic mouse or bluetooth peripherals, since Apple only lets you connect them to one computer at a time). I use an Apple wired keyboard, and a wireless USB mouse.
One other concern I had was whether frequently plugging and unplugging the thunderbolt cable could damage the thunderbolt/USB-C ports on my Macbooks (it sounds like that's not likely, but still possible). A solution to that is to have 2 thunderbolt cables, each kept plugged into each computer. Then, when switching between computers, you can just plug the other end of the corresponding cable into the docking station. That way, if the port gets damaged, it's $100-$200 to replace the docking station compared to $2K+ to replace a Macbook.
I have 2 MB Pros (my work machine, and my personal machine) that I use with one monitor.
I use the Plugable tbt3-udv Thunderbolt 3 docking station. Found it used for $110. I'm sure there are other docking stations out there, but this one has worked great for me. I have my mouse, keyboard, and audio speakers plugged into the docking station. All I need to do do switch monitors is plug the thunderbolt cable coming out of the docking station into the Macbook I want to use.
It takes just seconds to move the Thunderbolt cable (I have both laptops next to each other), and all peripherals work with whichever laptop I'm using. I used to use a monitor with a built in KVM switch, as well as trying other KVM switch options, and this way actually works quite a bit faster - as there was always a 10-20 second delay with KVM switches, and every KVM switch I've ever used was buggy. Sometimes they worked, and other times they didn't, and I'd have to reset my monitor, etc..
As far as drawbacks of this setup? The main one is that you need to use a USB mouse & keyboard (so I can't use my magic mouse or bluetooth peripherals, since Apple only lets you connect them to one computer at a time). I use an Apple wired keyboard, and a wireless USB mouse.
One other concern I had was whether frequently plugging and unplugging the thunderbolt cable could damage the thunderbolt/USB-C ports on my Macbooks (it sounds like that's not likely, but still possible). A solution to that is to have 2 thunderbolt cables, each kept plugged into each computer. Then, when switching between computers, you can just plug the other end of the corresponding cable into the docking station. That way, if the port gets damaged, it's $100-$200 to replace the docking station compared to $2K+ to replace a Macbook.
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If anyone has contacts with any of those companies, forward them the thread. Maybe we should start a letter-writing campaign!
Has anyone been able to use a usb-c/TB cable extension with the YIWENTEC USB-C between the switch and the ASD? I've tried several brands and either they won't work at all, either the screen turns off and on every other second.
What I've tried:
- ConnBull
- ULT-WIIQ and the 90 degree version
- YIWENTEC
- CABLEDECONN
- UGREEN
They all work fine if I extend the connection between my M1 16" 2021 and the switch but not if I extend the one running from the switch to the ASD.
What am I missing here?
What I've tried:
- ConnBull
- ULT-WIIQ and the 90 degree version
- YIWENTEC
- CABLEDECONN
- UGREEN
They all work fine if I extend the connection between my M1 16" 2021 and the switch but not if I extend the one running from the switch to the ASD.
What am I missing here?
@ta12vb87
I might be missing something here. The cable from Yiwentec switch to ASD can't be replaced, see the first pic.
Also, the switch only works with the cables provided (to connect to M1). Which I never understood.
But having said that, the setup is otherwise working great for me. Can easily toggle between 2 MBP without the unplugging/plugging
I might be missing something here. The cable from Yiwentec switch to ASD can't be replaced, see the first pic.
Also, the switch only works with the cables provided (to connect to M1). Which I never understood.
But having said that, the setup is otherwise working great for me. Can easily toggle between 2 MBP without the unplugging/plugging
Correct, the cable from the switch to the ASD cannot be replaced and for cable management purposes, I'd like it to be longer, hence why I'd like an extension.I might be missing something here. The cable from Yiwentec switch to ASD can't be replaced, see the first pic.
Also, the switch only works with the cables provided (to connect to M1). Which I never understood.
But having said that, the setup is otherwise working great for me. Can easily toggle between 2 MBP
There are cables that can replace the provided ones from the M1 to the ASD, see my post here.
Likewise, my setup is also working great for me between 1 MBP M1 and a Windows PC.
These switches are very cheaply made. Not just as in cheap parts (which they are) but in eliminating any unnecessary parts of the circuity. There are some teardown picture that have been posted if you’re technically inclined. Some of what was skipped in the design is circuitry that would amplify the signals to account for longer cables. To further complicate things, most USB4 and TB3/4 cables have chips in them that signal to the devices on either end of them what speeds they’re capable of. These switches don’t do anything around that either so what the cables say they’re capable of becomes inaccurate because the switch can’t keep up. That’s why everything is so iffy around what cables work. I’ve been using one of these switches for the last few months with no problems but once I found cables that worked, I didn’t touch anything. I wish there were some higher end properly built switches available but right now this is what we have and they work albeit with a lot of trial and error.
@joevt Well I finally ordered a Club3D CAC-1336 in hopes of easier connections to the ASD, and it's a total bust.
I can't get it to work at all. I tried several different HDMI sources, including Nvidia RTX-3060Ti (HDMI 2.1 source), AMD 5700XT, and various PCs with HDMI outputs. No image whatsoever, and I tried on the ASD, a USB-C LG monitor, and a Innocn OLED USB-C display. The CAC-1336 would often get very hot, like painfully hot to the touch.
To be clear, I have a pretty good idea what I'm doing, and broke out my Belkin Huawei VR charge and sync cable, and it worked every time, with every device I listed above. I realize the Belkin cable is taking DP output, and the CAC-1336 is using HDMI before tunneling over USB-C, but considering I couldn't get a single source to work, seems like something is very wrong. I tried a USB4 cable, as well as two different USB-C cables rated for 20Gbps that normally work just fine as a display cable.
I was looking for something that provided the same functionality as the Belkin Huawei cable, but less bulky/long. I guess I'm going to send the CAC-1336 back.
I can't get it to work at all. I tried several different HDMI sources, including Nvidia RTX-3060Ti (HDMI 2.1 source), AMD 5700XT, and various PCs with HDMI outputs. No image whatsoever, and I tried on the ASD, a USB-C LG monitor, and a Innocn OLED USB-C display. The CAC-1336 would often get very hot, like painfully hot to the touch.
To be clear, I have a pretty good idea what I'm doing, and broke out my Belkin Huawei VR charge and sync cable, and it worked every time, with every device I listed above. I realize the Belkin cable is taking DP output, and the CAC-1336 is using HDMI before tunneling over USB-C, but considering I couldn't get a single source to work, seems like something is very wrong. I tried a USB4 cable, as well as two different USB-C cables rated for 20Gbps that normally work just fine as a display cable.
I was looking for something that provided the same functionality as the Belkin Huawei cable, but less bulky/long. I guess I'm going to send the CAC-1336 back.
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The only way I got the CAC-1336 to work with my DisplayPort displays is with a CalDigit Element Hub connected to the USB-C output of the CAC-1336.@joevt Well I finally ordered a Club3D CAC-1336 in hopes of easier connections to the ASD, and it's a total bust.
I can't get it to work at all. I tried several different HDMI sources, including Nvidia RTX-3060Ti (HDMI 2.1 source), AMD 5700XT, and various PCs with HDMI outputs. No image whatsoever, and I tried on the ASD, a USB-C LG monitor, and a Innocn OLED USB-C display. The CAC-1336 would often get very hot, like painfully hot to the touch.
To be clear, I have a pretty good idea what I'm doing, and broke out my Belkin Huawei VR charge and sync cable, and it worked every time, with every device I listed above. I realize the Belkin cable is taking DP output, and the CAC-1336 is using HDMI before tunneling over USB-C, but considering I couldn't get a single source to work, seems like something is very wrong. I tried a USB4 cable, as well as two different USB-C cables rated for 20Gbps that normally work just fine as a display cable.
I was looking for something that provided the same functionality as the Belkin Huawei cable, but less bulky/long. I guess I'm going to send the CAC-1336 back.
https://insights.club-3d.com/thread/cac-1336-operation/
Do you have a Thunderbolt 4 dock you can try connecting to the CAC-1336, then connect a DisplayPort display to that to test that the adapter can work?
I don't think the CAC-1336 ever got very hot. Might be interesting to check how much power is going through the USB cable.
I should have gotten the CAC-1335 but then that might not work with the Belkin Charge and Sync cable - only with normal DisplayPort cables?
Yes, I do actually have a CalDigit TB4 Element hub. However, that seems like a very clunky workaround so I'm not even going to consider that as an option.
Why would you need to use a CAC-1335 with a Belkin charge/sync cable? The Belkin seems to "do it all", and the CAC-1335 wouldn't add any functionality, as I understand things.
It would be interesting to know if it works. Especially for Thunderbolt displays such as the ASD. It would add to the ridiculousness.
Right. The CAC-1335 or CAC-1336 are HDMI adapters so they are only useful when there are no DisplayPort outputs to use.
The CAC-1335 or CAC-1336 are the only HDMI to DisplayPort adapters that can do 5K or 6K or 8K. All earlier such adapters are limited to 4K.
I've already boxed up the CAC-1336 to send back to Amazon. If they want/expect me to fiddle with such ridiculous workarounds, they can send me one for free and I'll be a beta tester for them
Who cares what they want. It's what I wantI've already boxed up the CAC-1336 to send back to Amazon. If they want/expect me to fiddle with such ridiculous workarounds, they can send me one for free and I'll be a beta tester for them
But I understand if you don't want to take the time and effort.
I've read through this thread and am still trying to see if I can get my set up to work. For reference, here are the devices that I have:
- Studio Display
- Custom-built PC with the Belkin Huawei VR cable
- 2021 16" MBP
- CalDigit TS4
- Different "8K" Displayport switches
Is there a way to connect the ASD to the TS4, connect both the PC and MBP to the dual TB4 ports on the CalDigit, then connect a DP cable to a DP switcher? It's very convoluted, but I feel like there's a way to make this work with what I have, I just can't figure it out.
Thanks in advance.
- Studio Display
- Custom-built PC with the Belkin Huawei VR cable
- 2021 16" MBP
- CalDigit TS4
- Different "8K" Displayport switches
Is there a way to connect the ASD to the TS4, connect both the PC and MBP to the dual TB4 ports on the CalDigit, then connect a DP cable to a DP switcher? It's very convoluted, but I feel like there's a way to make this work with what I have, I just can't figure it out.
Thanks in advance.
That setup doesn't make sense. What's a DP switcher? Is there only one DisplayPort cable connected to it? What is it supposed to switch if there's only one cable connected to it?
I suppose it could be possible to connect multiple Thunderbolt capable computers to a Thunderbolt hub and then have software to switch a display connected to the hub or one of the Thunderbolt ports of the computers. It's basically how Apple's Thunderbolt Target Display Mode worked for Thunderbolt iMacs (minus the DP switch inside the iMac which was used to switch the iMac's display between the iMac's GPU and the DisplayPort Out Adapter of the iMac's Thunderbolt 1 controller). The software would need to be invented and installed on each computer. The software needs to somehow create/change the Thunderbolt path between the display (Thunderbolt DisplayPort Out Adapter of the Thunderbolt controller that the display is connected to) and the computer (Thunderbolt DisplayPort In Adapter of the Thunderbolt controller that the computer's GPU is connected to). It's a cross domain path (more than one computer involved).
I've got some bad news to report for anyone considering using USB-C magnetic connections to switch between your Studio Display (or Pro Display XDR) and source components. Many people have previously had success using connectors from Amazon, normally about $10 each.
I had ordered from at least two different product listings/sellers in the past. I tried to order from each of the same two sellers/product descriptions I'd used previously, and received a different variation that no longer supports video output to the Studio Display or other USB-C monitors I own.
You'll notice the product itself is different, not just the labeling. The new connector has a different female end (more rectangular vs. oval), and has a gold tint vs. silver.
I sent back one set to Amazon as 'item not described' because well it doesn't work. I ordered a second set via a different listing, and received the same new/non-functional product. I will probably keep this, as I do use these connectors for charging-purposes only, and will keep my "good" old ones specifically for video support. Kinda bummed, but I hope this helps someone.
These are the product pages that previously were working versions, but are now sending the ones on the right (not working):
I had ordered from at least two different product listings/sellers in the past. I tried to order from each of the same two sellers/product descriptions I'd used previously, and received a different variation that no longer supports video output to the Studio Display or other USB-C monitors I own.
You'll notice the product itself is different, not just the labeling. The new connector has a different female end (more rectangular vs. oval), and has a gold tint vs. silver.
I sent back one set to Amazon as 'item not described' because well it doesn't work. I ordered a second set via a different listing, and received the same new/non-functional product. I will probably keep this, as I do use these connectors for charging-purposes only, and will keep my "good" old ones specifically for video support. Kinda bummed, but I hope this helps someone.
These are the product pages that previously were working versions, but are now sending the ones on the right (not working):
[2Pack Straight+ Extra 2 Plugs]USB C Magnetic Adapter,24 Pins Type C Support Thunderbolt 4,USB4.0, PD 100W Charge,40Gb/s Data Transfer,8K Video Output Compatible with MacBook and More USB C Devices
[2Pack Straight+ Extra 2 Plugs]USB C Magnetic Adapter,24 Pins Type C Support Thunderbolt 4,USB4.0, PD 100W Charge,40Gb/s Data Transfer,8K Video Output Compatible with MacBook and More USB C Devices
www.amazon.com
YoungSelly Magnetic Adapter and USB C Connector,Support Thunderbolt 4,USB4.0, PD 100W Quick Charge,40Gb/s Data Transfer,8K Video Output Compatible with MacBook and More USB C Devices.(Straight)
YoungSelly Magnetic Adapter and USB C Connector,Support Thunderbolt 4,USB4.0, PD 100W Quick Charge,40Gb/s Data Transfer,8K Video Output Compatible with MacBook and More USB C Devices.(Straight)
www.amazon.com
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I've been trying to follow through the thread, but the upshot is there isn't a solution yet?
I'm trying to redo my home office and would love to connect my work computers to my Studio Display, if not my two work computers, personal Mac Mini, PC, and a spare slot for random laptops with KVM for at least my keyboard (and if possible a mic/camera connected through the display).
I'm trying to redo my home office and would love to connect my work computers to my Studio Display, if not my two work computers, personal Mac Mini, PC, and a spare slot for random laptops with KVM for at least my keyboard (and if possible a mic/camera connected through the display).
A lot of folks have had acceptable results with these USB-C switches that are sold by Cable Deconn, Conbull, and a bunch of other vendors. You can find them on Amazon. The problem is there is a lot of mixed results depending on the cables used and with different models of Macs. Also, I would not count on using the hub on the monitor if using any switch, I don't believe anyone has had either great reliability or throughput from the ports on the monitor when running through a switch, so I'd avoid that if at all possible. Absolutely do not plan on having external storage hanging from the back of the monitor. With those limitations in mind, and some trial and error in finding the right cables (read this thread for the various cables people have used that work), yes you can have a workable solution. I switch between my PC and Mac Studio several time a day every day and have no problems. As an alternative, some people have had success with Thunderbolt magnetic couplers to more easily switch cables but it seems that not all couplers work and they do break easily over time. The advantage of the couplers is when they do work, they're pretty much 100% compatible with all computers, cables, and peripherals.