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USB 3.x PCIe Cards for Classic Mac Pro

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The first post of this thread is a WikiPost and can be edited by anyone with the appropiate permissions. Your edits will be public.
pootahauntus said:
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/1569389/

I'm looking at the above Caldigit USB3.0 card guys. What do you think?
From the thread someone said no sleep problem / cable needed.. exactly what I need.. +bonus there are eSata slots..
Click to expand...

I am using Caldigit USB 3 with eSata combo card and works fine. Driver and card installation was easy. Works on external HDs with USB 3.0 or eSata ports and connection has been stable without problems. The USB 3.0 speed I think is not the maximum speed but substantially faster than FW 800. I cannot comment about the sleep problems as I don't put my Mac to sleep.
 
pastrychef said:
Oh! lol :p

I can't remember exactly the place where I purchased it... I'll try to dig through old credit card statements to see if I can find it.
Click to expand...

I would appreciate that as well. I might replace all the cables I have as my Magic mouse is kinda useless now.
 
adapter cables?

Firstly, thanks to the OP and others for sharing this much-needed upgrade.

However, I could use help clarifying adapter cables needed. I've read and re-read the posts regarding the adapter cables necessary to power the 4-port Orico card. Mine is a MP 4,1 with stock optical/dvd drive, and an SSD currently sitting and connected to the 2nd/lower optical bay (and would like to keep both SSD and optical there).

I've just ordered the first adapter cable (#33440) from the Lindy link. Still have to order the proper power splitter cable, as well as the molex extension.
What I'm not understanding is that the stock sata connector cable is 15+7 pins, but the Y-splitter cable is only 15 pin? so will the Lindy combo cable basically split 15+7 then reconnect to sata SSD via 2 separate (15+7) connectors?
I'm just trying to make visualize sense of this not having first-hand experience with these connectors & cables.
And with regard to the molex extension length: what's the ideal length needed? The one suggested in the link appears overly long at 72". Is it because you need to cut the cable anyways to route, and then reconnect molex with shorter length? Or is it better to get same cable, but shorter length-- like 18" or 24" ?

I would appreciate any help-- Thanks!!
 
smallwonder said:
Firstly, thanks to the OP and others for sharing this much-needed upgrade.

However, I could use help clarifying adapter cables needed. I've read and re-read the posts regarding the adapter cables necessary to power the 4-port Orico card. Mine is a MP 4,1 with stock optical/dvd drive, and an SSD currently sitting and connected to the 2nd/lower optical bay (and would like to keep both SSD and optical there).

I've just ordered the first adapter cable (#33440) from the Lindy link. Still have to order the proper power splitter cable, as well as the molex extension.
What I'm not understanding is that the stock sata connector cable is 15+7 pins, but the Y-splitter cable is only 15 pin? so will the Lindy combo cable basically split 15+7 then reconnect to sata SSD via 2 separate (15+7) connectors?
I'm just trying to make visualize sense of this not having first-hand experience with these connectors & cables.
And with regard to the molex extension length: what's the ideal length needed? The one suggested in the link appears overly long at 72". Is it because you need to cut the cable anyways to route, and then reconnect molex with shorter length? Or is it better to get same cable, but shorter length-- like 18" or 24" ?

I would appreciate any help-- Thanks!!
Click to expand...

It's an unusual cable required for this particular case, since you'll ideally want to draw from SATA power. So what you need is a SATA male to Molex female cable. This is probably the cleanest and easiest solution.

Newegg sells one here -- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812530007
 
Thanks ybz90.
I do understand the need for 5v and not 12volt etc.
But my specific question relates to 2 different splitter connectors just upstream of that (using the Lindy 33440 cable + separate Y splitter cable), allowing both SSD+ Optical connections to remain in place.

Does the SSD not need both 15+7 pins?
I must be confused.
 
All you are dealing with for the extension is the POWER portion of the cable, which is the larger 15 pin ... you won't extend the DATA portion of the cable, which is the smaller 7 pin.

However, if you are going to reconnect a SSD drive in the bay, you will need a short DATA extension cable since you can't split the integrated power/data connector used for the optical drives. If you could physically split them apart, then you could simply plug in the original data cable, and deal with the power splitter cable separately.

EDIT: I am not sure which cable you are referring to above, but the Lindy one I bought has both data and power extensions for the SATA local drive, and breaks out power to different Molex connectors for the run to the PCIe area.

http://www.lindy-usa.com/sata-extension-splitter-cable-combined-33440.html

33440big.jpg


The black connectors simply extend the data and power from the original drive cable back to your SSD (from which it was removed). The leftmost cable goes to your SSD data, the 3rd from left goes to your SSD power, the middle black one goes to the MacPro cable you unplugged from the SSD (or DVD). The white Molex connectors (4-pin male or female as needed) connect to the Molex power extension cable down to the card.

-howard
 
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Great!

AHA! I think I get the picture now. Thanks hfg/Howard!!
Thanks for breaking it down and explaining the connector ends :)

I was confused earlier where a post mentioned needing a total of 3 separate cables if you are to retain the 2 optical bays occupied. But it sounds like I only need 2 separate cables: the Lindy 33440 cable, and a molex extension.

With regard to the molex extension, I'm guessing about 24" should be sufficient?? The OP included a link that showed a 72" extension, but I'm assuming it will have to be cut down anyways. So I'll probably just go with that 72" extension, then cut and re-crimp to the right length.

I'm sure this will be easy once I have all the cables in my hand. Sometimes words get in the way of just seeing how things fit.
 
I hope a 24" extension cable should be OK (I haven't run mine yet) to reach the PCIe card in the top slot. You don't have to cut the cable ... you can remove the pins from the shell and then slide them through the cable slot, then poke the pins back into the shell, being careful to get the right wire in the right hole!

I have a molex pin removal tool (just a simple barrel tube) which slides down over the pin and compresses the lock tab so the wire/pin can be pulled free. However, I think you can also use a tiny screwdriver or tweezers to compress the tab and remove the wires.


Good luck....


-howard
 
Josh-H said:
Any issues found with the Sonnet Tango? Seems the best option as does not require fiddling for internal power.
Click to expand...

From what I've read so far, it seems to be fine. As it uses the Fresco Logic chipset, I would expect it to work the same as other cards.

ORICO PFU3-2P also doesn't require power, also uses the Fresco Logic Chipset, and is much less expensive. If you don't need additional FW800 ports, it is another card to consider.

smallwonder said:
However, I could use help clarifying adapter cables needed. I've read and re-read the posts regarding the adapter cables necessary to power the 4-port Orico card. Mine is a MP 4,1 with stock optical/dvd drive, and an SSD currently sitting and connected to the 2nd/lower optical bay (and would like to keep both SSD and optical there).
Click to expand...

You just need that Lindy cable and a Molex extension cable. I used a 72" early on because I didn't know how long I would need. It's actually way too long, but I don't know how short you can go. I hope people trying other lengths will report on their success or failure.

hfg said:
I hope a 24" extension cable should be OK (I haven't run mine yet) to reach the PCIe card in the top slot. You don't have to cut the cable ... you can remove the pins from the shell and then slide them through the cable slot, then poke the pins back into the shell, being careful to get the right wire in the right hole!

I have a molex pin removal tool (just a simple barrel tube) which slides down over the pin and compresses the lock tab so the wire/pin can be pulled free. However, I think you can also use a tiny screwdriver or tweezers to compress the tab and remove the wires.
Click to expand...

Let us know how that 24" goes.

I used a small screwdriver the first time. It is a pain, but I eventually got there. Next time I got the proper tool. You can get them at Radio Shack or Amazon for under $10. Here is the exact one I have:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062447
 
Does the Caldigit card work with SD card readers? Looking for a fast way to download camera cards.

Thanks
 
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