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highvoltage12v

macrumors 6502a
Mar 27, 2014
926
931
@highvoltage12v Have you played with any DSDT mods? I know when you run MacOS on non-apple hardware, you have to do some DSDT edits to the PNLF to get backlight control. I looked into it a little bit yesterday, but I've only done minor DSDT edits in the past. Nothing like this.

https://github.com/RehabMan/Laptop-DSDT-Patch/blob/master/graphics/graphics_PNLF.txt
Someone else on insanely Mac has https://www.insanelymac.com/forum/t...in-imac-111-late-2009-display-brightness-fix/. The most success they had was the brightness slider showing up. I don't want to run clover on my iMac due to the risk of EFI corruption. I have tried Patched backlight kexts before and whatevergreen with lilu.kext but they never had any advantage for me. I going to go the Dying light module route because it's guaranted hardware that runs in any OS.
 
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Lankyman

macrumors 68020
May 14, 2011
2,083
832
U.K.
Yes it's 8 year old hardware, but that really has become irrelevant as the 2600 just as fast as the i5 6600 in my 2015 iMac. As to why were doing this? We can actually run newer OS's now because the Nvidia GPU's support metal. (That's something I need to add to the list of things to add to post 1) @ibanezbass was getting irritated because of lack of backlight not working. Please read the last few posts before posting.
I hear what you say, but given its age, I will just turn my mid-2011 iMac (in mint condition) into a Windows 10 machine when the time comes.

Modern Windows OS is every bit as competent as MacOS without the hardware limitations.
 
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highvoltage12v

macrumors 6502a
Mar 27, 2014
926
931
I hear what you say, but given its age, I will just turn my mid-2011 iMac (in mint condition) into a Windows 10 machine when the time comes.

Modern Windows OS is every bit as competent as MacOS without the hardware limitations.
Yes, i'll agree with you there. I don't agree with with Apple's model of artificially killing support for products sooner than needs to be. It's kind of the topics i'm interested in, here on Mac Rumors.
 

foamborn

macrumors newbie
Feb 16, 2019
1
0
Montreal
Hi everyone!
I've been following this thread for awhile now, and successfully install a 765m in my 2011 27 imac last night :D
I'd like to install mojave on it now, and have a patched installer on a usb waiting to go, but of course without the boot screen, i haven't had any luck getting it to boot. I've seen a few people on here have pulled it off, how did you manage?
 

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ibanezbass

macrumors newbie
Feb 14, 2019
27
19
A DyingLight would fix your back-light problem, and give you adjustable brightness, but you could just hot-wire the back-light PWM from the 3.3v out on the PSU. I had the same problem with my Radeon Pro WX7100 (Polaris) card. Your 980 is getting stuck at P5 because of a power-limit in the BIOS, the easiest way to fix it is just to overclock the P5 state using Nvidia Inspector. Your welcome.

Okay, so I've started playing with Nvidia Inspector and the vBios. I can overclock the Core with no issues when it's in P5, however, the Memory won't clock past 1600mhz. If I try to move past 1600, it just resets back to the previous value.

When you said there's a power limit in the bios, are you referring to the vBios? If so, what do I need to change to fix it?

Update: I made some progress. By updating the clock states of P1 and P5 to match P0, I'm able to get the memory to default speeds of 2505, but my core is stuck at 540 without the help of Nvidia inspector.

Also, the first 5 or 6 power states were set to 1000 watts on the default rom, so I lowered all of those to 85 watts. The card seems to be respecting that as MSI Afterburner shows power limit being hit and boost clocks are reducing accordingly. I'm going to have to do some air redirection in the case. My temps slowly climb up to the mid 80's at default clocks.

Update 2: I've made a lot more progress. I now have backlight in Windows thanks to the suggestion to direct wire 3.3v to the PWM (Still waiting on my DyingLight :( ). I used a 6 pin PCIe extension I had to hack into the PWM signal. I ran the 3.3v from the SD card cable using a cut up USB cable, which leaves me the necessary connections for the DyingLight.

I've modded the vBios A LOT. I now get 540/2505 at boot, then I run an Nvidia Inspector profile to bump the core to the set boost clock of 1228. I reverted the power limits to stock, raised the boost limit from ~1125 to 1228, lowered the base clock from 1050 to 948.5, set the temp target to 85 C, and max temp target to 95 C (previously 101 and 102, respectively). Now my card runs at 65 C. The clocks will start at 1228 and slowly fall to around 1000. I also shunted air from the hard drive fan directly onto the GPU using an old credit card that I shaped, taped, and glued. I then used a few other old credit cards to help better direct the air across the GPU heatsink from the optical drive fan. I'm fairly pleased so far, but will be very happy when my dying light is installed.

Update 3: I wasn't quite happy with the performance of the GPU with my previous mod, so I decided to allow higher temps. I set the target temp up to 92, which allows the GPU to get to 78 before it starts lowering the clocks. I also upped the base clock to 1000, which is 50 mhz down from the stock clock. However, with the increased thermal headroom, it holds 1228, most of the time (~100 over stock boost), and will slowly fall down under extremely stressed scenarios. I saw it drop to 1190 while in a specific spot in SOTTR.

I downloaded ThrottleStop to limit my CPU (i7-2600) some, to prevent overwhelming the PSU. I have the CPU set to 55 watts with a 65 watt boost. CPU mostly stays around 40-50 watts at 3.5 Ghz. CPU temps are good during gaming, 50-60 C. PSU seemed to max out around 70 C. Everything else, except LCD proximity, stayed in the 50s. LCD proximity maxes out around 63-64C.
 
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Sricca

macrumors member
Dec 25, 2018
31
2
nj
You sure it's the power supply? You have a Snow Leopard DVD you can put it? hold C on startup. It won't show a display anything, but you should hear it read the DVD and stay on.
Ok . My IMac is back. I just did a recovery of my High Sierra OS from time machine into my ssd and will install Mojave on a second ssd. Once Mojave is install, what should you do if Apple says there are update? Should you allow an update to Mojave or not?
 

Sricca

macrumors member
Dec 25, 2018
31
2
nj
That's great. You need to have the iMac Setup the way I have mine, High Sierra on the first partition and Mojave on the Second. The High Sierra Partition Doesn't have to be big, make it 40GB or so. High Sierra is Necessary so when Mojave Breaks (which it will because of platformsupport.plist) you can ALT-APPLE-P-R and reboot back into HS and use Startup Disk(system preferences) to boot back into the Flash Drive to re-run the patch. (http://dosdude1.com/mojave/) Also when running the Patch DO-NOT select "legacy video patch" or you will have choppy animations.
After you are in Mojave Download these HD3000 kexts (#1438) and drag all of them at once on top of kext utility(#1431), this will fix waking from sleep.

Also I recommend a flash drive with a flashing/status LED so you can see if the iMac is actually booting from the flash drive, because yes we are of course booting blind without seeing the status. I personally like to tap on the Caps Lock key after a few minutes and see if it responds.[/QUOTE]

Finally all done. Thanks again.

https://flic.kr/p/2eHPVH5
script>



script>
 
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Lankyman

macrumors 68020
May 14, 2011
2,083
832
U.K.
I do admire the tenacity of these iMac owners trying to get their new GPU to work on the old iMac's.

However, as said previously, for me this really is an upgrade too far. I will possibly do one of three things - install Windows 10 when Apple drops support for High Sierra, continue to use High Sierra into the future, or if I'm feeling really frivolous buy myself another Mac.

I like trying to get things to work myself, but I find working inside a 21.5 inch iMac a not very rewarding experience. It's just to nerve wracking.
 

ibanezbass

macrumors newbie
Feb 14, 2019
27
19
I do admire the tenacity of these iMac owners trying to get their new GPU to work on the old iMac's.

However, as said previously, for me this really is an upgrade too far. I will possibly do one of three things - install Windows 10 when Apple drops support for High Sierra, continue to use High Sierra into the future, or if I'm feeling really frivolous buy myself another Mac.

I like trying to get things to work myself, but I find working inside a 21.5 inch iMac a not very rewarding experience. It's just to nerve wracking.

Much better than the MBP’s and other laptops I’ve taken apart
If it’s not something you do often, it can be challenging. I’ve broken more than one device in disassembly. I’ve disassembled countless devices, though.
 
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Lankyman

macrumors 68020
May 14, 2011
2,083
832
U.K.
An electrostatic discharge bracelet eliminates 90% of the risk-the rest lies in the repairers patience, willingness to adapt, and ability to overcome.
I think my issue is due to age my motor skills aren’t as good as they were, plus sausage fingers don’t help.

I’m still fine messing about in a PC tower but not so good with the tiny connectors in the iMac.
 
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highvoltage12v

macrumors 6502a
Mar 27, 2014
926
931
Hi everyone!
I've been following this thread for awhile now, and successfully install a 765m in my 2011 27 imac last night :D
I'd like to install mojave on it now, and have a patched installer on a usb waiting to go, but of course without the boot screen, i haven't had any luck getting it to boot. I've seen a few people on here have pulled it off, how did you manage?
So let me start out with saying you should partition your hard drive. Have High Sierra on the first partition, so you can PRAM reset into High Sierra if necessary. With high Sierra installed you should go to system preferences then startup disk choose your patched flash drive and reboot from system preferences. After the first part when Mojave is installed, the iMac won't boot and shut down after a few minutes because platformsupport.plist is stopping it. Turn your iMac on hold Alt-command-p-r and it will boot back into high Sierra. From here go back to system preferences choose your patched installer and reboot. Once in the installer open the Patcher un click VIDEO CARD PATCH Otherwise you will have choppy animations.

I'm on mobile right now, so the response is not perfect.
 
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ibanezbass

macrumors newbie
Feb 14, 2019
27
19
So... how close to the limit do you guys think that you can push the PSU? It’s a 310w PSU and I’m drawing 330 from the wall under heavy gaming load. With a 90% efficient power supply, that would put output around 297.
848D9D35-8980-40DE-823D-91A5E776A9D6.jpeg


Update: So looking at Apple’s website shows that the 2009 and 2010 iMacs have a draw of 365w under CPU max... on a 310w power supply. What???
A3A93CC0-63E0-4D25-A31E-CB7B993CFA7B.jpeg
 
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highvoltage12v

macrumors 6502a
Mar 27, 2014
926
931
So... how close to the limit do you guys think that you can push the PSU? It’s a 310w PSU and I’m drawing 330 from the wall under heavy gaming load. With a 90% efficient power supply, that would put output around 297.
View attachment 822635

Update: So looking at Apple’s website shows that the 2009 and 2010 iMacs have a draw of 365w under CPU max... on a 310w power supply. What???
View attachment 822639
I'm not sure how Apple is drawing 365w from a 310w PSU. It's like they were wanting those iMac PSU's to fail. As long as you stay in the 300w range you should be good. When you were talking temps earlier did you have the fans ramped up to full speed? Also would you consider your new modded bios safe for others to use, would you upload it?

Edit: I wanted to also add the 2009-2011 iMac all use the same Delta PSU. Still don't know where Apple is getting 365w on the 2010 model.
 
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ibanezbass

macrumors newbie
Feb 14, 2019
27
19
I'm not sure how Apple is drawing 365w from a 310w PSU. It's like they were wanting those iMac PSU's to fail. As long as you stay in the 300w range you should be good. When you were talking temps earlier did you have the fans ramped up to full speed? Also would you consider your new modded bios safe for others to use, would you upload it?

Yes, I'm using Macs Fan Control to control the fans with these settings:
ODD Fan - Controlled by GPU Heatsink - Ramp at 45 C, Max at 58 C
HDD Fan - Controlled by GPU Heatsink - Ramp at 45 C, Max at 58 C
CPU Fan - Controlled by CPU Proximity - Ramp at 42 C, Max at 58 C

I've found that using the heatsink and proximity temps prevents that rapid ramp of fans and allows the heatsink to heat soak before exhausting the heat from it. You just have to account for the temp difference, which is why I ramp and max out at such low temps. In reality, the fans don't max until the temps are sustained in the mid 60s on the core.

I believe my vBios is safe to use. I've been using it for several days without issue. This vBios will allow for a maximum boost of 1228, which is where I was seeing the 330w power consumption (I actually lowered my Nvidia inspector script to 1164, which cut power consumption by 20-30w). I've set the vBios to cause the card to start thermal throttle at 78 C. In real word, sustained 100% GPU loads will caused the clocks to fall to the high 1100s. Under extreme circumstances, the vBios is set to allow the clocks to fall to 1000 mhz (base clock), which is 50 mhz below the stock base clock. I wanted to make sure that the card had plenty of room to throttle if the iMac couldn't keep it cool enough. Memory clocks are stock 2505. I didn't want to overclock the memory due to lack of full coverage on the "hacked" heatsink.

Note: I'm still locked to P5, which means that without Nvidia Inspector running at boot, my clocks stay at 540. I have task scheduler set to run at log in with clock values of my choice (1164 at this moment).


Update on Apple PSU: So my calculation of efficiency were probably off. An 80 PLUS PSU is only 80% efficient at 100% load, so the iMac could be even lower due to no 80 PLUS rating. But assuming an 80% efficiency, that means I was only actually using around 264 watts. And, Apple's ratings were also from the wall, so they would be using 292 watts at 80% of 365 watts. Interesting... I may crank my GPU back to 1228 after all.
 

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Toni96pp

macrumors newbie
Feb 21, 2018
21
2
Okay, I bought a 780m, I installed it and it works like they said, but I reboot on windows and the display didn't respond, its because I didn't install the graphic controllers on windows? what can I do? and how can I go to macOS if I don't see the display? I hope not to open it again, its awful

Edit: i restart the vram and get access to macOS, but I want to use windows because of the games, any idea about why the display not respond? if I need to install drivers, where can I found the correct one?
 
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ibanezbass

macrumors newbie
Feb 14, 2019
27
19
Okay, I bought a 780m, I installed it and it works like they said, but I reboot on windows and the display didn't respond, its because I didn't install the graphic controllers on windows? what can I do? and how can I go to macOS if I don't see the display? I hope not to open it again, its awful

Edit: i restart the vram and get access to macOS, but I want to use windows because of the games, any idea about why the display not respond? if I need to install drivers, where can I found the correct one?


Did you install a program to remotely control Windows, like TeamViewer or Google Remote Desktop? Have you tried to plug in an external monitor? It’s possible that your backlight is staying off.

If you have Windows 10, it will eventually install the driver automatically if it has network connectivity.
 
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Toni96pp

macrumors newbie
Feb 21, 2018
21
2
Did you install a program to remotely control Windows, like TeamViewer or Google Remote Desktop? Have you tried to plug in an external monitor? It’s possible that your backlight is staying off.

If you have Windows 10, it will eventually install the driver automatically if it has network connectivity.

I didn’t install any program, I’ll see if it works with an external display, thank you
 
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arkieboy72472

macrumors regular
May 4, 2017
128
29
Hi everyone!
I've been following this thread for awhile now, and successfully install a 765m in my 2011 27 imac last night :D
I'd like to install mojave on it now, and have a patched installer on a usb waiting to go, but of course without the boot screen, i haven't had any luck getting it to boot. I've seen a few people on here have pulled it off, how did you manage?

This is because you did everything out of order. You get the OS installed first THEN shut down, change the card (which you seem to have down) and boot back up. You can't do this in reverse.
 

highvoltage12v

macrumors 6502a
Mar 27, 2014
926
931
This is because you did everything out of order. You get the OS installed first THEN shut down, change the card (which you seem to have down) and boot back up. You can't do this in reverse.
Reinstalling the old card is unnecessary. Just PRAM reset back into High Sierra, and choose to boot the patched installer in High Sierra's system preferences.
 
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ibanezbass

macrumors newbie
Feb 14, 2019
27
19
Just to push the limits here. Has anyone seen somone try a GTX 1060m or better card?

My first attempt was the 1060. It was recognized, but I had no video output and MacOS recognized it as the generic Nvidia Chip Model 7mb. Looking back, I think it would have worked in Windows, but I was afraid that I’d end up with a useless 1060 MXM card, so I returned it and got the 980M which was confirmed to work by another member. I also saved $60 by going down to the 980M.
 
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