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Jarafe

macrumors newbie
Jan 25, 2024
16
9
Yes, I’ve followed your indications and it’s confirmed i have to mod the ch341a to operate in 3,3v. Tomorrow (hoppe) will be assisted in doing that mod.
The progress on the GPU has been slow to say the least... (will post full "warpath" later) still not working and back to original GPU (still on monterey)

I’ve also placed a sensor on the hdd so i can have both software and hardware control on fan

meanwhile i've updated my wifi + bt to BCM94360CD from a chinese vendor complete solder less KIT,
all i can say about is Fantastic kit even screws and the thermo-shrink wrap was included (the one i've bought is specific for 11.1 or 11.3 mac's there are other ones)
 

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lilliputian

macrumors newbie
Apr 27, 2020
26
7
The progress on the GPU has been slow to say the least... (will post full "warpath" later) still not working and back to original GPU (still on monterey)

I’ve also placed a sensor on the hdd so i can have both software and hardware control on fan

meanwhile i've updated my wifi + bt to BCM94360CD from a chinese vendor complete solder less KIT,
all i can say about is Fantastic kit even screws and the thermo-shrink wrap was included (the one i've bought is specific for 11.1 or 11.3 mac's there are other ones)
Just to clarify, upgrading the wifi and bluetooth enables certain features that the iMac 11,3 and etc. don't have, or does it just negate the legacy wifi patch?
 

countryhick

macrumors newbie
May 4, 2024
8
8
Brisbane, Australia
Another success story!!!

(I'm a complete noob and this is my experience.. I may very well have done this flash incorrectly.. But it's working..)

Again... Thank-you to all the Devs who've made this all possible...

Machine specs:
Mid 2011 iMac 27" (12,2) i7-2600, 32GB 1333 : 2TB SSD : HD 6970M (is now WX4130)

New Card: AMD WX4130

Flash Method: SSH into machine using GRML-FLASH
https://github.com/Ausdauersportler/GRML-FLASH

I did note a couple of small command variations (compared to the GitHub Readme for the GRML-FLASH) that needed tailoring for my card (WX4130)

First of all the path to the correct Bios needed the extra level added ie. AMD/GCN4/NewAMDBios.rom

When I first tried flashing the card using
(% ./amdvbflash -p 0 AMD/GCN4/WX4130_GOP.rom)
it failed to flash and returned the reason something along the lines of 'The current firmware is newer than the version I was trying to flash'

So I tried to flash a second time using the -fv command (Force flashing bypassing newer BIOS version check)
(% ./amdvbflash -p 0 -fv AMD/GCN4/WX4130_GOP.rom)
and it failed again with another reason I can't recall....

The third attempt was a SUCCESS!!! This time I used the -f command (Force flashing regardless of security checkings (e.g. AsicID & BIOS file info check OR boot-up card).
(% ./amdvbflash -p 0 -f AMD/GCN4/WX4130_GOP.rom)
See confirmation report in attached pics...

I've also successfully installed Sonoma onto the machine using OCLP and couldn't be happier :)

**** If any of you experienced guys think this is misleading or will create confusion, please let me know****
 

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Jarafe

macrumors newbie
Jan 25, 2024
16
9
Just to clarify, upgrading the wifi and bluetooth enables certain features that the iMac 11,3 and etc. don't have, or does it just negate the legacy wifi patch?
As far as i can see it enables certain features. exemple i can now connect to my samsung tv for multi screen, send files to iPhone 14 directly and yes the wifi is a lot faster
 

lilliputian

macrumors newbie
Apr 27, 2020
26
7
As far as i can see it enables certain features. exemple i can now connect to my samsung tv for multi screen, send files to iPhone 14 directly and yes the wifi is a lot faster
I can no longer AirPlay to my AppleTV from the iMac in Ventura, so it would be worth it just for that! (And yeah, better DL speeds, whatevs :p )
 

countryhick

macrumors newbie
May 4, 2024
8
8
Brisbane, Australia
With relative ease, the 'nutserts' can be removed from the X bracket that comes with the AMD WX4130 (and likely many others).
Using the same X bracket that comes from the factory on the GPU, ensures it mounts perfectly as designed, thus reducing flex of the card and also the chance of shorting something out....

The removal procedure is quite simple and you only need three basic tools.
1. A socket or similar tube that has a hole only just large enough for the nutsert to pass through... But must also support the bracket sufficiently.
2. Small hammer or similar (a bench vice would also work equally well)
3. M2 bolt or a suitably sized pin punch.

The removal process goes something like this.
1. Carefully remove the X bracket from card using a little heat and gentle prying.
2. Wind an M2 bolt into the nutsert 3-4 turns.
3. Support X bracket on socket/tube.
4. Strike bolt head until nutsert is free. (Alternatively use a pin punch to knock nutsert through)
5. Flatten X bracket with hammer/vice if it became distorted during nutsert removal.

Apple original X bracket bolts are M2.5mm.
AMD X brackets are M2 mm.

I used some button head M2.5mm bolts I had laying around to secure the bracket, but the factory countersunk items would likely work just as well...
 

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ChrizLoud

macrumors member
Feb 11, 2021
64
28
But! I think i have problems!

Problem 1:
Sonoma Valley Score sucks at a score of: 1525
View attachment 2381967

Problem 2: Tempratures! View attachment 2381968

Idle temps are much higher than my oher iMac with K4100M that sits around 40-45°c Heatsink temp on idle.
View attachment 2381979

Heatsink does not seem to "heat up" but GPU does rise in 10 seconds of Valley test to 89c°
View attachment 2381969

Ater 10 min of Valley there is still no big rise in Heatsink temp.
View attachment 2381970

Gpu running very hot and looking at CPU-Z it throttles badly after 10 sec.
Also you can see in Valley that its not choppy but it takes pauses in intervals of 3 sec (Trotthling).

So what is the problem. I guess i have no good contact between GPU die and heatsink?
Why? To my knowledge i do not need any heatsink mod or copper shim using 3-pipe heatsink with WX7100?
Or im a wrong?



Also note PSU temp is very high.. On my other iMac it sits at 50°c but this one after W7100 sits at 70°c at idle?
View attachment 2381989

Ok! So i disassembled the iMac again. Trying to rule out a overheating faulty WX7100 or just bad contact with the heatsink and here is what i found. Please i need your input on this.

Is contact good or did i a buy a faulty WX7100 GPU?
tempImagesV1Tjk.png
tempImageudvbA4.png
tempImager9v3gd.png
tempImageY3e5fX.png
 
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dorninko

macrumors member
Jan 30, 2022
89
28
Austria
Ok! So i disassembled the iMac again. Trying to rule out a overheating faulty WX7100 or just bad contact with the heatsink and here is what i found. Please i need your input on this.

Is contact good or did i a buy a faulty WX7100 GPU? View attachment 2385039 View attachment 2385040 View attachment 2385041 View attachment 2385042
Hi, I remeber that I had to do some grinding on the cooler plate for the WX7100 but I can't exactly locate where. I suggest you clean the plates and look exactly it some of the components touch the cooling plate. My guess ist that the you bent the card during assembly and that ther might be some unwanted contact.
 

kobip

macrumors newbie
Jun 7, 2024
1
0
If the goal is just to get my iMac working again for low $ and I don't need an upgrade in graphics performance, are there any <US$50 'plug and play' replacement graphics cards which work without needing any modifications?

I have a 27" mid-2011 iMac with Intel Core i7 3.4Ghz and AMD Radeon HD 6970M graphics (that went bad).

I was looking at this one for $36:
 

Nguyen Duc Hieu

macrumors 68040
Jul 5, 2020
3,001
995
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Ok! So i disassembled the iMac again. Trying to rule out a overheating faulty WX7100 or just bad contact with the heatsink and here is what i found. Please i need your input on this.

Is contact good or did i a buy a faulty WX7100 GPU? View attachment 2385039

Amazing!
I can't believe what I saw on the photos.
K5-pro on the main GPU chip?
You got to be kidding, right?

You used the same stuff on your CPU, too?
 

Rendell001

macrumors newbie
Aug 27, 2019
25
11
Scotland
Ok! So i disassembled the iMac again. Trying to rule out a overheating faulty WX7100 or just bad contact with the heatsink and here is what i found. Please i need your input on this.

Is contact good or did i a buy a faulty WX7100 GPU? View attachment 2385039 View attachment 2385040 View attachment 2385041 View attachment 2385042
Erm... I'm no expert but isn't that a LOT of thermal paste to use - it's more like a cream cake!

(Wouldn't the excess paste over other components cause problems?)
 

splifingate

macrumors 68000
Nov 27, 2013
1,864
1,675
ATL
Ok! So i disassembled the iMac again. Trying to rule out a overheating faulty WX7100 or just bad contact with the heatsink and here is what i found. Please i need your input on this.

Is contact good or did i a buy a faulty WX7100 GPU? View attachment 2385039 View attachment 2385040 View attachment 2385041 View attachment 2385042
yikes!

K4/K5 are thermal-pad replacement gels, and entirely appropriate for diodes&memory.

The reason you've been suffering thermal issues is probably because you used a "thermal-pad-replacement" gel on the GPU (grey rectangle in the silver-square).

What you need to use it the appropriate "thermal paste" on the GPU (Kryonaut/MX-4/NT-H2/etc.).

Luckily, you had *some* form of substrate between the GPU and the heatsink, so it seems probable that you did not irrevocably fry your WX7100 ;)

Your application of the K5 to the diode/mem chips appears a little heavy; but to err on the side of sufficient, this is not a real waste.

Clean your MXM, use K5 for the diode/mem contacts, and apply a judicious amount of CPU/GPU thermal paste on the GPU die before you mate it to the heatsink.
 

Jarafe

macrumors newbie
Jan 25, 2024
16
9
Sorry if this question is misplaced.

Does this cap have direction or can i re-mount it in any direction?

Thank you in advance
 

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ChrizLoud

macrumors member
Feb 11, 2021
64
28
yikes!

K4/K5 are thermal-pad replacement gels, and entirely appropriate for diodes&memory.

The reason you've been suffering thermal issues is probably because you used a "thermal-pad-replacement" gel on the GPU (grey rectangle in the silver-square).

What you need to use it the appropriate "thermal paste" on the GPU (Kryonaut/MX-4/NT-H2/etc.).

Luckily, you had *some* form of substrate between the GPU and the heatsink, so it seems probable that you did not irrevocably fry your WX7100 ;)

Your application of the K5 to the diode/mem chips appears a little heavy; but to err on the side of sufficient, this is not a real waste.

Clean your MXM, use K5 for the diode/mem contacts, and apply a judicious amount of CPU/GPU thermal paste on the GPU die before you mate it to the heatsink.
Thank you for your reply.
On GPU i used K4, not K5. K4 is for GPU / CPU etc and i used it before with no problems.
On the mem etc. i used K5. I can not really see the problem here.

Skärmavbild 2024-06-11 kl. 13.37.14.png


Just to be sure i replaced it with MX-4 but result was still the same, still high temps.
Eventully temps got more and more worse and now the card will not post. (3:rd LED on motherboard is not lit)

To me it feels like the card was faulty from the beginning.
I will replace it with another WX7100 soon and update results.

Just to be sure i have PM:ed some here and there that did sucessfull installations but all answers are different.


1. Do you need any modding done to the 3-pipe heatsink? Some says yes some says no.

2. Do you need any copper shim between gpu and heatsink? Same answers here, some says yes some says no?

Im really confused now.
 
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79bass

macrumors newbie
May 11, 2024
19
5
After trying for a month to make opencore and/or a Dell Quadro M2000M (via trying different vbios) to light up the backlight at boot (it did only when an nvidia driver was loaded by the OS), I gave up and made the backlight hotwire mod.

Now that I think about it I've never tune down a desktop monitor light, usually I do the opposite to see clearly something (and probably why I am so blind), but the thing really pump white when it goes.
I am a little bothered that I gave up and soldered the wire, but I am a bit puzzle by the fact that the card could eventually take control of the backlight (I couldn't really dim it, but eventually I would have find out).

Maybe an ON/ON switch/toggle would allow easy switch between a constant 3.3v input from the PSU (needed when installing an OS with a boards like mine that only "wake up" the backlight with the drivers) and a possibly-sofware-modulated input on the backlight board (to use later, eventually, if the OS is finally capable to handle the backlight). Did anyone tried that?
 

splifingate

macrumors 68000
Nov 27, 2013
1,864
1,675
ATL
Thank you for your reply.
On GPU i used K4, not K5. K4 is for GPU / CPU etc and i used it before with no problems.
On the mem etc. i used K5. I can not really see the problem here.

View attachment 2387432

Just to be sure i replaced it with MX-4 but result was still the same, still high temps.
Eventully temps got more and more worse and now the card will not post. (3:rd LED on motherboard is not lit)

To me it feels like the card was faulty from the beginning.
I will replace it with another WX7100 soon and update results.

Just to be sure i have PM:ed some here and there that did sucessfull installations but all answers are different.


1. Do you need any modding done to the 3-pipe heatsink? Some says yes some says no.

I needed no modifications of my stock 3-pipe heatsink to get it to Screen . . . I did, however, need to use Kapton in a few areas (no science to my efforts; just places where I visually observed that contact would potentially occur).

2. Do you need any copper shim between gpu and heatsink? Same answers here, some says yes some says no?

I needed none.

Im really confused now.

I believe we all showed-up--at some point in time--wearing our soccer shoes, and found that we were actually playing basketball ;)
 
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ChrizLoud

macrumors member
Feb 11, 2021
64
28
Reporting a working WX7100 installed in a 27" iMac mid-2011. I've been craving one for a while, so happy it worked. I purchased the card from the same vendor as @wa9im and was pleased to get it quickly (China to US in 11 days). VBios was installed with a CH341a clip using the @Nick [D]vB WX7100_GOP.ROM file, then traded out a K2100M for it using a 3 pipe heatsink. It is being booted with OpenCore (AMD config), to a previously installed DosDude Mojave; I still need to work out sleep which had been working with the K2100M (Something to do tomorrow).

Just wanted to provide the details and to offer my thanks to @wa9im, @Pascal Baillargeau, @Nick [D]vB, @Ausdauersportler, @Emilio306 and @jborko for blazing the trail and contributing to making this a success.

UPDATE: The sleep problem was within OpenCore; went to native Mojave boot, and sleep is now working again. Since OpenCore is not needed for brightness controls, I suppose I don't need it, unless I want to add alternate OS in future and have a selection at boot.

UPDATE #2: I reformatted (bye bye Mojave) and installed Catalina fresh; then installed BootCamp/Win10. The WX7100 works well from Windows (and Zuma does too :) ). Once back on Catalina, I followed the @Ausdauersportler PDF guide for OpenCore, and got a much improved Valley score, over what I saw from Mojave without OC. Sleep is working thanks to that and advice from @Pascal Baillargeau. Now just need the BCM94360CDPAX kit I ordered from HK, and this machine can be moved onto my main desk.
No modding / grinding of heatsink?
 

ChrizLoud

macrumors member
Feb 11, 2021
64
28
I needed no modifications of my stock 3-pipe heatsink to get it to Screen . . . I did, however, need to use Kapton in a few areas (no science to my efforts; just places where I visually observed that contact would potentially occur).



I needed none.



I believe we all showed-up--at some point in time--wearing our soccer shoes, and found that we were actually playing basketball ;)
Thanks for replying. I really hope it was just a bad card i got.
 
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79bass

macrumors newbie
May 11, 2024
19
5
Is anyone using linux primarily?
I need to cool down the imac internal bits but apparently the only ready to go solutions are either extremely old (14y ago last update) or they just trigger all the fan when the cpu temp increases (mbpfan).
Our machine are apparently an exception, no dedicated gpu fan, a dvd fan that cools down the gpu heatsink and a huge monitor tat basically needs cooling on its own.
I can do it manually, and I think I can cook a quick script to regularly check the temperature and trigger a fan, but maybe someone here did something similar already?
 
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