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Good afternoon everyone,
I am new in the forum, my name is Sebastian, I am writing from Colombia.
First an apology for my English.
I would like to ask you for some advice or recommendations to upgrade this iMAC.
iMac (Retina 5K, 27 inches, late 2015)
A1419 / MK462E/A

It currently has its factory Fusion Drive, the RAM is already upgraded, and I only need to upgrade its SSD for an M2 with its respective adapter.
I would like to help me with the following questions:

Can I install the M2 SSD with its adapter and at the same time leave the HDD installed and connected to store information? or it must be removed?

If I have to remove it, should I also remove the power and sata cables?

Can I have any error on the temperature?

Regarding the hibernation problems, what should I take into account? Any update? or is it necessary to disable the sleep mode or hibernation?

Thanks in advance
 
Good afternoon everyone,
I am new in the forum, my name is Sebastian, I am writing from Colombia.
First an apology for my English.
I would like to ask you for some advice or recommendations to upgrade this iMAC.
iMac (Retina 5K, 27 inches, late 2015)
A1419 / MK462E/A

It currently has its factory Fusion Drive, the RAM is already upgraded, and I only need to upgrade its SSD for an M2 with its respective adapter.
I would like to help me with the following questions:

Can I install the M2 SSD with its adapter and at the same time leave the HDD installed and connected to store information? or it must be removed?

If I have to remove it, should I also remove the power and sata cables?

Can I have any error on the temperature?

Regarding the hibernation problems, what should I take into account? Any update? or is it necessary to disable the sleep mode or hibernation?

Thanks in advance
Good afternoon.
I've made the same changes to the computer as you.
My recommendation: remove the old HDD and its cable (you won't have any temperature issues).
My choice is a 1TB WD_Black SN850X NVME and a Sintech adapter.
No problem.
 
Buenas tardes.
He hecho los mismos cambios en la computadora que tú.
Mi recomendación: eliminar el HDD antiguo y su cable (no tendrá ningún problema de temperatura).
Mi elección es un 1TB WD_Black SN850X NVME y un adaptador Sintech.
No hay problema.
Thank you very much for the information

Regarding the problems you mention with the hibernation, should I do something? or by this time with the system updates is already solved?

The HDD is it necessary to remove it compulsorily? or I can leave it internally?
Thank you very much
 
Thanks for your response @Terraaustralis.
The MBA is completely clean (it was the first thing I did when I bought it), and the PCI-E drive connectors are also clean.
I say this because the WD Black SN850X NVMe drive and the original Samsung drive work correctly the first time.
The adapter I'm using is the inexpensive generic one I bought from Aliexpress (it works without any problems with the SN850X).
That is good Chesco, however the important point is, I believe the NVMe is not properly fitted.
First check with Crucial to see if your T500 is compatible. If Crucial say it is compatible then refit NVMe and it should work.
 
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Thank you again
I will proceed to try with patience
Hi sebasq26,
If this is your first attempt at upgrading it is worth checking Page 1 (at top) to read the experience of others with your iMac model. The information is 5 years old but remains a good source for your 2015 model. As chesco says sleep/hibernation will not be a problem. Choose WD Black 7SN770, SN850x or WD Blue NVMe SSD as they are proved compatible with iMac.

Read this:

You can keep and use your old HDD or replace it with a SATA SSD.

For SATA SSD I used the Sabrent SATA mount. No additional cables needed as the existing iMac SATA socket goes straight onto the mount. Should you want a second SATA drive another socket is available beneath the motherboard. Of course, you will need a tray for carrying two SATA SSD’s.
No heat sensor needed either. Like many other upgraders, I installed Macs Fan control, a free application that entirely manages and regulates cooling once your upgrade is finished.

The maximum SSD speed you can achieve with your 2015 iMac is limited to PCIe 3.0 which will give you around 2800MB/ps with a WD Black SN770 SSD. Even though the WD Black 770 is PCIe 4.0, the PCIe slot on the motherboard determines maximum speed at PCIe 3.0. PCIe 3.0 SSD are nearly the same price as PCIe 4.0 SSD’s which suggests it is better insurance to buy a PCIe 4.0. which can run at PCIE 4.0 speeds in a TB4 external drive for a Mac at a future date.

If you have not already done so, go to rsx0:
https://forums.macrumors.com/thread...d-nvme-ssd-upgrade-pitfalls-and-tips.2177812/ and familiarise yourself with the process. See the Ifixit or OWC video’s but be aware there are traps which the video’s do not reveal.

For example:

1. About static: My studio has a carpeted floor which means it is very difficult to earth myself to eliminate static electricity. Earth to the iMac aluminium is the best I can do. In the past I have blown an iMac power unit without touching it; due to static electricity jumping from my arm. Now I always wear surgical gloves. They insulate, keep perspiration off sensitive parts and ensure better grip for safer working practice.

2. The iMac powerboard sits snugly adjacent to the Motherboard and the powerboard must be removed before you can remove the Motherboard. This is a delicate task. After unscrewing the powerboard you must release a tight universal power connector socket carrying several short cables linking the two halves together. To move the power board away from the motherboard you are fighting the pressure of connecting cables which unite the two boards. With experience I have learned to straighten the cables carefully thus enabling me to place the powerboard upright against the computer ‘chin’. Of course all the condenser and soldering is exposed hence need to exercise great care and avoid contact. Hold board by its edges.

To release the socket, press the centre of the short bar, down hard, towards the body of the socket. This should raise the barb upwards - if it is not too tight. While applying this pressure, grip the two halves of the socket one in each hand, and work them apart. Not easy. I used the edge of a nail file first to lift the barb, then to lever the two halves slightly apart. Once they move a little, the separation becomes easier. With experience it becomes easier to lift the entire power unit up and rest it. The socket is then revealed and you can see what you are doing.

All the while you are doing this the power unit and your hand may bump against each other. Now you see the value of surgical gloves for insulation. Nowhere have I read anyone offering a caution regarding this aspect of disassembly and the video’s do not show the actual socket separation process. That the technicians use bare hands leaves me amazed at their cavalier approach.

3. If you feel competent to handle the above you should find the procedure straight forward. First time around, I had the OWC video on the monitor of a second computer while I worked on the first iMac. I prefer to work with the iMac on its back rather than standing. Take care to lift the screen a couple of inches only as you must carefully unplug the screen connector cable from the motherboard and similarly a cable connecting the monitor inverter, before you can remove the screen.

Although I have the Macfix adhesive strips to seal the screen to the body, here I am two year later still with tape temporarily holding the glass screen onto the back. I remain unduly cautious about finally sealing the iMac in case a problem occurs. So far, so good.

Research, forethought and patience will ensure your success.
May ‘The Force’ be with you.
 
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Hi sebasq26,
If this is your first attempt at upgrading it is worth checking Page 1 (at top) to read the experience of others with your iMac model. The information is 5 years old but remains a good source for your 2015 model. As chesco says sleep/hibernation will not be a problem. Choose WD Black 7SN770, SN850x or WD Blue NVMe SSD as they are proved compatible with iMac. Read this:


You can keep and use your old HDD or replace it with a SATA SSD.

For SATA SSD I used the Sabrent SATA mount. No additional cables needed as the existing iMac SATA socket goes straight onto the mount. Should you want a second SATA drive another socket is available beneath the motherboard. Of course, you will need a tray for carrying two SATA SSD’s.
No heat sensor needed either. Like many other upgraders, I installed Macs Fan control, a free application that entirely manages and regulates cooling once your upgrade is finished.

The maximum SSD speed you can achieve with your 2017 iMac is limited to PCIe 3.0 which will give you around 2800MB/ps with a WD Black SN770 SSD. Even though the WD Black 770 is PCIe 4.0, the PCIe slot on the motherboard determines maximum speed at PCIe 3.0. PCIe 3.0 SSD are nearly the same price as PCIe 4.0 SSD’s which suggests it is better insurance to buy a PCIe 4.0. which can run at PCIE 4.0 speeds in a TB4 external drive for a Mac at a future date.

If you have not already done so, go to rsx0:
https://forums.macrumors.com/thread...d-nvme-ssd-upgrade-pitfalls-and-tips.2177812/ and familiarise yourself with the process. See the Ifixit or OWC video’s but be aware there are traps which the video’s do not reveal.

For example:

1. About static: My studio has a carpeted floor which means it is very difficult to earth myself to eliminate static electricity. Earth to the iMac aluminium is the best I can do. In the past I have blown an iMac power unit without touching it; due to static electricity jumping from my arm. Now I always wear surgical gloves. They insulate, keep perspiration off sensitive parts and ensure better grip for safer working practice.

2. The iMac powerboard sits snugly adjacent to the Motherboard and the powerboard must be removed before you can remove the Motherboard. This is a delicate task. After unscrewing the powerboard you must release a tight universal power connector socket carrying several short cables linking the two halves together. To move the power board away from the motherboard you are fighting the pressure of connecting cables which unite the two boards. With experience I have learned to straighten the cables carefully thus enabling me to place the powerboard upright against the computer ‘chin’. Of course all the condenser and soldering is exposed hence need to exercise great care and avoid contact. Hold board by its edges.

To release the socket, press the centre of the short bar, down hard, towards the body of the socket. This should raise the barb upwards - if it is not too tight. While applying this pressure, grip the two halves of the socket one in each hand, and work them apart. Not easy. I used the edge of a nail file first to lift the barb, then to lever the two halves slightly apart. Once they move a little, the separation becomes easier. With experience it becomes easier to lift the entire power unit up and rest it. The socket is then revealed and you can see what you are doing.

All the while you are doing this the power unit and your hand may bump against each other. Now you see the value of surgical gloves for insulation. Nowhere have I read anyone offering a caution regarding this aspect of disassembly and the video’s do not show the actual socket separation process. That the technicians use bare hands leaves me amazed at their cavalier approach.

If you feel competent to handle the above you should find the procedure straight forward. First time around, I had the OWC video on the monitor of a second computer while I worked on the first iMac. I prefer to work with the iMac on its back rather than standing. Take care to lift the screen a couple of inches only as you must carefully unplug the screen connector cable from the motherboard and similarly a cable connecting the monitor inverter, before you can remove the screen.

Research, forethought and patience will ensure your success.
May ‘The Force’ be with you.
Wowww, incredible, thank you very much for the information. I tell you something about me, I am a certified Apple technician a few years ago I managed to work for an Apple Reseller in Colombia, but this type of repairs are not common for users here, and in stores and we know that repairs are not of this type, so my experience has been autonomously for these situations. I have already started with the disassembly and everything is perfect, I have removed the screen initially, tomorrow I will continue with the disassembly, cleaning and installation of the NVME, I have some additional questions:

I have previously used this type of adapter with MacBook with different brands of M2 as Crucial, Patriot, Sabrent, Kioxia, Toshiba, Kingston, my doubt lies in is it necessary that the disk is the mentioned or is only recommendation?

With respect to the tape Kapton ends, I can use in its replacement electrical insulating tape? Temflex type from 3M?

I saw that someone recommended to use additional velcro points for the screen adjustment, is it necessary? Or should I just be careful with the cleaning and installation of the tapes?

Thanks again, you should always learn every day.
 
Great background experience sebasq26.

Addressing your questions:
1. Choose the PCIE/NVME adapter according to compatibility. The 13mm adapter pictured below is cheap and works well with many models including my own. I like the idea of the short adapter as it offers free airflow. I do use a thin copper heatsink/spreader from Ali Express. For the SN770 general usage has operating temperatures around 30°; 65° with sustained file transfer to external drive. Well within the 75° tolerance limit. It is a very cool running NVME.

2. Choose a proven Mac compatible NVME. This is where research is important. Use a recommended NVMe only. See page 1 (link in previous post), of this blog for compatible alternatives to WD Black. Some older Samsung are good but refer to the Macrumors list I sent you before deciding on your NVME.

"I have previously used this type of adapter with MacBook with different brands of M2 as Crucial, Patriot, Sabrent, Kioxia, Toshiba, Kingston, my doubt lies in is it necessary that the disk is the mentioned or is only”
Uncertain of your meaning. What type of M2 adapter? Give brand name. For single sided NVME M.2 is generally OK depending upon compatibility between adapter brand and NVME model.​
I repeat, Sintech is not fully compatible with WD Black SN770, SN850x or WD Blue which are recommended iMac compatible NVME.​

PCIE 3.0 NVME are priced almost as much as PCIE 4.0. Being 5 years old, the list on MacRumors page one, offers older NVME models which may be hard to find. I have recommended NVME that I know work from experience with my 2019 iMac.

3. Only use Kapton tape. it is stable between -260C and 400C. It is high grade insulation properties used by NASA. It is also cheap! Electricians tape is useless. It is not heat tolerant and adhesive deteriorates.

4. I have not experienced any need for velcro regarding screen connection. Screen fit seems perfectly snug to me in the few models I have upgraded.

I have read users have used velcro to tape SATA SSD internally to back of Mac instead of fitting a rigid frame to carry SATA SSD. Also use velcro taped externally to back of iMac to carry external SSD.​

5. I recommend you do not re-tape your screen onto iMac with the permanent Apple two sided tape until you have tested the upgrade for several months. Just tape the screen onto the aluminium back with Sellotape until you are 100% sure everything is functioning.



Screenshot 2025-05-01 at 11.46.23 am.png

A
 
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Update of this iMac 27”

Greetings from Colombia, thanks to those who have read and have shared with me their valuable contributions.

Well, perform the disassembly without problem, the good thing is that the architecture remains with the different models then the process is facilitated. Remove the screen without problem, this iMac was quite dirty, I proceeded to remove each piece according to the iFixit disassembly guides, remove all parts without problems, continue with the cleaning of each piece, carefully using brushes and antistatic elements and the respective bracelet, clean the whole set of equipment, fan, board, heatsink, power supply, with no news. I proceeded with the part that I had more doubts and it was the installation of the adapter and the M2 with the kapton tape, I took the time, I put the tape, I protected the connectors, then I proceeded to install the M2 with the set of its heatsink and pads, without problems, I was finding problems in the screw to use since none worked, in the end I used the same one that came with it and it adjusted without failures.

In this part I was worried because initially I installed the heatsink overlapping with the adapter and saw a high pressure and a wrong setting with the M2, finally I understood that the adapter to be long should be integrated with the heatsink, corrected this, everything worked without problem; already in this part carefully assemble again, install the screen temporarily adjusted with tape to validate operation, the first ignition gave image correctly, then start the recovery from the Internet, the disk is recognized without problems, also leave installed the HDD 1TB, proceed to delete both disks, initialize the M2, perform the installation of macOS Sequoia without problems, and currently I have the proof of work, I will leave it so several days and then proceed to install the tapes and deliver to the customer, I hope everything works without problem.

Not minor data:
Adapter used: cheap from Aliexpress, large size.
Disk used M2 Gen3 NVME 1TB Orico, reference Phixero (customer request)
Read speeds between 2600-2700mbps
Write speeds between 2200-2400mbps
Startup time 15-20 seconds
M2 temperature in tests 45-50

When finished I will upload the summary of everything, I will share pictures and videos.
Thank you very much again for everything

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
 

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Update of this iMac 27”

Greetings from Colombia, thanks to those who have read and have shared with me their valuable contributions.

Well, perform the disassembly without problem, the good thing is that the architecture remains with the different models then the process is facilitated. Remove the screen without problem, this iMac was quite dirty, I proceeded to remove each piece according to the iFixit disassembly guides, remove all parts without problems, continue with the cleaning of each piece, carefully using brushes and antistatic elements and the respective bracelet, clean the whole set of equipment, fan, board, heatsink, power supply, with no news. I proceeded with the part that I had more doubts and it was the installation of the adapter and the M2 with the kapton tape, I took the time, I put the tape, I protected the connectors, then I proceeded to install the M2 with the set of its heatsink and pads, without problems, I was finding problems in the screw to use since none worked, in the end I used the same one that came with it and it adjusted without failures.

In this part I was worried because initially I installed the heatsink overlapping with the adapter and saw a high pressure and a wrong setting with the M2, finally I understood that the adapter to be long should be integrated with the heatsink, corrected this, everything worked without problem; already in this part carefully assemble again, install the screen temporarily adjusted with tape to validate operation, the first ignition gave image correctly, then start the recovery from the Internet, the disk is recognized without problems, also leave installed the HDD 1TB, proceed to delete both disks, initialize the M2, perform the installation of macOS Sequoia without problems, and currently I have the proof of work, I will leave it so several days and then proceed to install the tapes and deliver to the customer, I hope everything works without problem.

Not minor data:
Adapter used: cheap from Aliexpress, large size.
Disk used M2 Gen3 NVME 1TB Orico, reference Phixero (customer request)
Read speeds between 2600-2700mbps
Write speeds between 2200-2400mbps
Startup time 15-20 seconds
M2 temperature in tests 45-50

When finished I will upload the summary of everything, I will share pictures and videos.
Thank you very much again for everything

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
Well done! As for the choice of a heat sink, use one that is only 3mm thick. If you opt for a ticker one you'll likely find that the clearance between iMac case and motherboard is not wide enough and it squeezes - see this photo from one of my earlier experiences with a 5mm thick heatsink:

tempImageppAUiC.png


With a 3mm one you are fine:

tempImagedIDbiM.png


Best,
Magnus
 
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Well done! As for the choice of a heat sink, use one that is only 3mm thick. If you opt for a ticker one you'll likely find that the clearance between iMac case and motherboard is not wide enough and it squeezes - see this photo from one of my earlier experiences with a 5mm thick heatsink:

View attachment 2507525

With a 3mm one you are fine:

View attachment 2507522

Best,
Magnus
Update of this iMac 27”

Greetings from Colombia, thanks to those who have read and have shared with me their valuable contributions.

Well, perform the disassembly without problem, the good thing is that the architecture remains with the different models then the process is facilitated. Remove the screen without problem, this iMac was quite dirty, I proceeded to remove each piece according to the iFixit disassembly guides, remove all parts without problems, continue with the cleaning of each piece, carefully using brushes and antistatic elements and the respective bracelet, clean the whole set of equipment, fan, board, heatsink, power supply, with no news. I proceeded with the part that I had more doubts and it was the installation of the adapter and the M2 with the kapton tape, I took the time, I put the tape, I protected the connectors, then I proceeded to install the M2 with the set of its heatsink and pads, without problems, I was finding problems in the screw to use since none worked, in the end I used the same one that came with it and it adjusted without failures.

In this part I was worried because initially I installed the heatsink overlapping with the adapter and saw a high pressure and a wrong setting with the M2, finally I understood that the adapter to be long should be integrated with the heatsink, corrected this, everything worked without problem; already in this part carefully assemble again, install the screen temporarily adjusted with tape to validate operation, the first ignition gave image correctly, then start the recovery from the Internet, the disk is recognized without problems, also leave installed the HDD 1TB, proceed to delete both disks, initialize the M2, perform the installation of macOS Sequoia without problems, and currently I have the proof of work, I will leave it so several days and then proceed to install the tapes and deliver to the customer, I hope everything works without problem.

Not minor data:
Adapter used: cheap from Aliexpress, large size.
Disk used M2 Gen3 NVME 1TB Orico, reference Phixero (customer request)
Read speeds between 2600-2700mbps
Write speeds between 2200-2400mbps
Startup time 15-20 seconds
M2 temperature in tests 45-50

When finished I will upload the summary of everything, I will share pictures and videos.
Thank you very much again for everything

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
Good work sebasq26,
As Magnus has said, heatsink clearence is critical. I used thin copper from Ali Express (pictured).
Also think NVME temperature is relatively warm but I do not know how much work the NVME has done. Probably of no concern but is simply a reflection of that particular Phixero performance, an entirely unfamiliar name to me. Importantly, it seems to work fine with iMac.

Thank you for the follow up.
 

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Hi all guys
Now a news with this imac 27” 2019.
Everything perfect, tests fine, turn it off to install the tapes, connect the screen again and now I have no sound, internal speakers are not detected, already tried to reset the nvram, smc without success, reset connections, nothing.

Help, I do not know what to do at this time
Everything was perfect
 
Check in the Apple Menu > About This Mac > System Report... > Audio

See if the speakers and microphone are connected.

Have you also tried plugging some earphones in or bluetooth speakers or earphones to see if that works?

I feel like it is a hardware issue. You can try reinstalling the OS, but if the motherboard doesn't detect any speakers, then it will waste some of your time.
 
Well guys, my last update for now, I accept all your advice because I'm panicking.

I went back to disassemble all the equipment, validate again all the connections and nothing, I can identify that there is nothing working related to the audio, the microphone is not recognized, headphones with 3.5mm connection either, it's weird.
I tried disconnecting the 3.5mm port from the board, the same, microphone the same, there is simply nothing related to the audio functional. I reinstalled the OS without success. By bluetooth audio works both in speakers and Airpods.

I still do not understand what went wrong, the equipment was fully functional, just remove the screen, install tapes, I reassembled it to test and the audio stopped working completely.
 
Bad news indeed!

From a distance I can only guess:
System Settings>Sound>Output >Mute Box unticked?

Plugs may be in correct sockets but not properly seated! Check every plug carefully.
Ensure no cables anywhere have been crimped during assembly.

1. Power Board to Logic board: Check this connector to your powerboard to ensure it is correctly seated. (As indicated by the spudger tool).
2. Logic Board: Also check this audio cable (indicated by the spudger tool) is properly seated.
This cable connects to headphone socket and looks like this - (See Image 3). (I am not suggesting you remove it, just explaining what you are dealing with).

Prior to final screen assembly, carefully power up iMac and check diagnostic LED lights to test logic board. Three out of five should be green. That tells you logic board circuits are communicating and GPU found. If three diagnostic green, your logic board is undamaged. (Lights four and five illuminate after LCD panel and Screen cables are connected).

If only two lights are green, logic board is not communicating properly. A micro soldering technician is needed to identify and fix damaged circuit/component.

Please tell us how you go. Good luck.
 

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Well guys, my last update for now, I accept all your advice because I'm panicking.

I went back to disassemble all the equipment, validate again all the connections and nothing, I can identify that there is nothing working related to the audio, the microphone is not recognized, headphones with 3.5mm connection either, it's weird.
I tried disconnecting the 3.5mm port from the board, the same, microphone the same, there is simply nothing related to the audio functional. I reinstalled the OS without success. By bluetooth audio works both in speakers and Airpods.

I still do not understand what went wrong, the equipment was fully functional, just remove the screen, install tapes, I reassembled it to test and the audio stopped working completely.
If the 3.5mm headphone port is not recognised then speakers will not work. The cable can be fragile and it is possible you damaged it - maybe by bending it too much.
 
Greetings everyone,

Thank you for the information regarding the upgrade — it has been very helpful.

I used thin copper from Ali Express (pictured).

Could you please clarify why you decided to use copper instead of "regular" M2 heatsink?

I would like to upgrade iMac 27 2015 Monterey 12.7.6 (i5>i7, Fusion 128+500 > WD SN770 1 TB + M2 adapter from ali), however, I can not decide which heatsink to use better. Thanks.


Also, did anyone make a Fusion drive clone before the drive replacement? If yes, please let me know how it works, since I do not want to make a clean installation on a new drive because I would like to install Sonoma from scratch via OCLP some time after the upgrade, restore the backup via Time Machine (if it would be possible, of course) and upgrade OS to Sequoia (since the restoration does not work on Sequoia properly according to OCLP website). And I do not want to make some extra steps during or right after the upgrade, so I can have some time to test the updated hardware.

Lastly, in case I am forced to reinstall macOS during the drive replacement, will I still be able to restore data from a Time Machine backup that was created from a Fusion Drive?

Thanks in advance and have a great day.
 
Everything perfect, tests fine, turn it off to install the tapes, connect the screen again and now I have no sound, internal speakers are not detected, already tried to reset the nvram, smc without success, reset connections, nothing.
A bit of silly question, but you did discharge the power supply before starting to wotk on it right?

As in, disconnect power cable, press and hold power button for like 15s.
 
Greetings everyone,

Thank you for the information regarding the upgrade — it has been very helpful.



Could you please clarify why you decided to use copper instead of "regular" M2 heatsink?

I would like to upgrade iMac 27 2015 Monterey 12.7.6 (i5>i7, Fusion 128+500 > WD SN770 1 TB + M2 adapter from ali), however, I can not decide which heatsink to use better. Thanks.


Also, did anyone make a Fusion drive clone before the drive replacement? If yes, please let me know how it works, since I do not want to make a clean installation on a new drive because I would like to install Sonoma from scratch via OCLP some time after the upgrade, restore the backup via Time Machine (if it would be possible, of course) and upgrade OS to Sequoia (since the restoration does not work on Sequoia properly according to OCLP website). And I do not want to make some extra steps during or right after the upgrade, so I can have some time to test the updated hardware.

Lastly, in case I am forced to reinstall macOS during the drive replacement, will I still be able to restore data from a Time Machine backup that was created from a Fusion Drive?

Thanks in advance and have a great day.
Heatsink:
I chose copper for two reasons;
One, it is far better at conducting and dissipating heat than any metal other than Silver with a conductivity of 400 watts per Kelvin per metre. Graphite compositions can be good with Applied Nanotech announcing their CarbAl heatsinks supplying conductivity at 390 W/mK, good if it performs as claimed and it is not too costly.
In metals, Aluminium, with 235W/mK. ranks fourth down the list of conductivity after Gold.

Two: With only about 3-4mm of space for a heatsink in an iMac, the heatsink must be thin to allow effective circulation of air from the fans. See: https://computer.howstuffworks.com/heat-sink.htm
Like you, I have a WD Black NVMe SN770 which is a cool running SSD and I wish to keep it that way. Macs Fan Control offers sensor readings for SSD, CPU and GPU cores so you can reliable adjust airflow to reduce operating temperatures.

With so little space, I want as much air movement as possible. Reduced air space limits efficient cooling. I understand airflow is a more important factor for heat dispersal than total heatsink surface area (fins). It is airflow which is essential for removing radiated heat. A greater volume and faster movement of air = greater heat dispersal and a cooler running SSD or chip, fins or no fins. That is my opinion. The flat copper helps absorb heat from the controller and diffuse it more evenly throughout the heatsink. Fan then blows excess radiant heat away from the copper heatsink thus preventing heat build up in the NVMe operation. Generally, when NVMe temperature rises to 75° or above (depending on each models design tolerance), NVMe will throttle back to avoid damage.

According to Tech Powerup; with Sequential Write the PCIe 4.0 SN770 can hit 86° while software actually records only 75°. At this temperature the NVMe speed drops back from 4.7GB/s to 4.1 GB/s. However you and I will never reach that temperature as our iMacs PCIe 3.0 limitations will not allow more than 2.9GB/s - 3.1GB/s Write speeds with temperature maximum at around 65°.

Fusion:
If you have fitted a 1TB NVMe drive you do not need Fusion. In fact Fusion would slow the performance of the SSD considerably which compromises the fundamental advantage of buying a fast drive. At a later date, I would recommend you insert a 1TB SATA SSD to replace the 500GB HDD. This will double the drive space provide SATA speed around 500GB/s, about 5x the speed of an HDD.

I suggest you place your OSX on the SN770 and using it as your working drive. All operations would be very fast. Then use the 500GB HDD for data storage and archive of completed files only. You will not notice the slow HDD speed when recovering individual files from the HDD as the SSD would be doing most of the work. Only if you have an OSX on the HDD and boot from the HDD will the slowness of the HDD become noticeable.

Tell us more about the applications you use and the work you perform. I am sure other readers can offer useful observations regarding preferred drive set-up options.

Sequoia OSX:
No need for two step Sonoma/Sequoia OSX install. Better to create OSX Install file using Mist. Do not clone an OSX. This is why:See first paragraph: https://bombich.com/en/kb/ccc/5/cloning-macos-system-volumes-apple-software-restore

Download Mist from Github here:
Once your preferred Mac OSX installer is downloaded to whichever drive you choose, you can then install directly, to any other drive of your choice via Mist, internal or external, and be sure of a flawless installation.

Time Machine:
You cannot restore Time Machine from Recovery. You must first have a working MacOSX installed on your drive. Then you can install from Time Machine using Migration Assistant. Yes, you can restore a earlier OSX Time Machine backup to a later OSX using Migration Assistant; created with Fusion or without Fusion. Time Machine is a space greedy. It needs 2x the size of your volume. (My volume is 396GB and yet Time Machine repeatedly was unable to complete backup saying there was not enough space. Now my TM is on a 2TB volume it occupies 867GB/s. So, to operate TM requires considerable blank disk space. This article explains why; https://dzone.com/articles/shrink-your-time-machine

A person I greatly respect is Howard Oakley of Eclectic Light Company who recommends a full installation of OSX before using Migration Assistant to transfer your account files. This is to ensure the OSX is 100% perfect prior to transfer. Should there be a migration glitch, you can trash the migration transfer file and start again using the clean OSX. Personally I have had no problem using Migration Assistant to create my account files prior to completion of OSX registration process, but I can understand Howard’s careful point of view and I am inclined to practice his recommendations.
 

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Well guys, my last update for now, I accept all your advice because I'm panicking.

I went back to disassemble all the equipment, validate again all the connections and nothing, I can identify that there is nothing working related to the audio, the microphone is not recognized, headphones with 3.5mm connection either, it's weird.
I tried disconnecting the 3.5mm port from the board, the same, microphone the same, there is simply nothing related to the audio functional. I reinstalled the OS without success. By bluetooth audio works both in speakers and Airpods.

I still do not understand what went wrong, the equipment was fully functional, just remove the screen, install tapes, I reassembled it to test and the audio stopped working completely.
How are you going Sebastion?
What is the latest regarding this upgrade Audio problem? Have you solved it or isolated the problem to a part?
What do your diagnostic light tell you?
 
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How are you going Sebastion?
What is the latest regarding this upgrade Audio problem? Have you solved it or isolated the problem to a part?
What do your diagnostic light tell you?
Diagnostic light won’t tell him what the issue is regarding audio. Likely issue is due to the headphone port not being recognised and the cable being damaged during disassembly
 
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