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I think it would be safe to say that K6B2s would be compatible with any 2-NAND M4 machine.
why are the Mac Minis swappable but not the macbooks?
did you think that will change?
I don think so

oh nice basement you have...the exposed floor rafters!
I had the same one in my old house!

thank for everything you do for our MacBooks!
 
why are the Mac Minis swappable but not the macbooks?
did you think that will change?
I don think so

oh nice basement you have...the exposed floor rafters!
I had the same one in my old house!

thank for everything you do for our MacBooks!
MacBooks are swappable just the same.
 
Very interested in eventually getting this M2 MBA upgraded to its max available storage capacity. I'm assuming 4TB or so based on what I've read.
 
MacBooks are swappable just the same.
not my 2020 m1 series I would need to replace the logic board to upgrade the storage space.
(I have not opened the hood...took off the back cover yet!)
..unless one solders the chip off then applies a third party one.

the new Mac mini had a Replaceable SSD as I hope  uses this in the future for MacBooks!
 
Hi everyone, just got my hand on a A2681 M2 256gb macbook but as it's for photo editing, i need some extra storage, i have some experience with smd soldering so i want to try to upgrade to 1tb at least but the 200$ for the chips is pretty expensive i thinks, did someone have contact for less expensive chip ?
Actually got a single KIC5224 chip and i thinks i will need to populate the extra capacitor and resistor for the 2nd chip
IMG_20250228_175543_1740761775788.jpg
IMG_20250228_175653.jpg
.
 
First of all, let me say how amazing you all are ;). I'm impressed just by how much you know about all of this.

There's so much information, in fact, that I'm slightly confused on what is needed for my case. I have a 2020 Macbook Pro M1, a2251. It has 4 NAND chips - 2xTSB4228 and 2xTSB4227, for a 512GB configuration. One of the NANDs has seemingly gone bad, making the system unstable/unusable - though I do not know which of the four has failed.

If I want to just get to a good state with the most minimal rather than expanding all four, do I use two KICK223 or KICK229 NANDs on the appropriate two sockets? I forget which two they are, I think U8600 and U8700?
 
First of all, let me say how amazing you all are ;). I'm impressed just by how much you know about all of this.

There's so much information, in fact, that I'm slightly confused on what is needed for my case. I have a 2020 Macbook Pro M1, a2251. It has 4 NAND chips - 2xTSB4228 and 2xTSB4227, for a 512GB configuration. One of the NANDs has seemingly gone bad, making the system unstable/unusable - though I do not know which of the four has failed.

If I want to just get to a good state with the most minimal rather than expanding all four, do I use two KICK223 or KICK229 NANDs on the appropriate two sockets? I forget which two they are, I think U8600 and U8700?
That's not an M1 machine, that's a T2-based Intel machine, which uses completely different NANDs and requires external programming to even use a new set of NANDs. These machines tend to be horribly unreliable, and are some of the worst Intel Macs made, so I really have no interest in upgrading or messing with storage in any capacity on these awful machines.
 
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Hi everyone, just got my hand on a A2681 M2 256gb macbook but as it's for photo editing, i need some extra storage, i have some experience with smd soldering so i want to try to upgrade to 1tb at least but the 200$ for the chips is pretty expensive i thinks, did someone have contact for less expensive chip ?
Actually got a single KIC5224 chip and i thinks i will need to populate the extra capacitor and resistor for the 2nd chipView attachment 2486780View attachment 2486781.
for the 256gb m2 air upgrade you need to purchase 2 blank nands(no point buying 2x512GB imo, buy 2x1TB price is very similar for double the capacity) however the difficult part is when you have to add the passive components around the nands landing pad, approximately 40 tiny components according the the schematics.
 
@dosdude1 Silly question, but how does one know the proper orientation of a NAND onto the motherboard? The NANDs have the golden/yellow dot for direction, but what about the motherboards of Apple? Do we just remember how the "old" chips are placed via their square-code + ID written on them, and just replicate that with new chips for orientation... or is there an Apple specific orientation marker on the mobos?

Thank you
 
@dosdude1 Silly question, but how does one know the proper orientation of a NAND onto the motherboard? The NANDs have the golden/yellow dot for direction, but what about the motherboards of Apple? Do we just remember how the "old" chips are placed via their square-code + ID written on them, and just replicate that with new chips for orientation... or is there an Apple specific orientation marker on the mobos?

Thank you
Yeah, you just need to keep note of the original orientation. As with any chip, pin 1 will be marked with a dot on the chip. That just has to be in the same position as it was originally.
 
Just upgraded my M1 Air to 2TB during trip to China for $135. Working well so far.

Was previously thinking of upgrading to the M4 but NAND prices has gone up a lot on the M4. This should last me a few more years.
 
i want to upgrade my Macbook Pro 14 inch A2442 from 1 TB to 8 TB (M1 Pro Chip). Can someone share the complete partlist, which passive / active components need to be add besides the 8 pieces of 8T85K Nands? Thanks a lot!
 
DosDUDE/ POLYSOFT- HELP ME PLEASE!

after doing multiple SSD upgrades I thought I had a decent understanding of the process.... obviously not!

I was in the process of upgrading a MacBook Pro m1 (base model 512GB but with an uncommon config-5nand)

want to upgrade to 2TB so removed all 5 nands and installed the 4X512GB NANDS (correct Pin1 position and used blank nands)

for some reason its keeps boot looping and won't enter into DFU mode. only used DFU jumper pads on the 2 landing pad models and the lay out is a bit different so my attempts didn't really work trying to force it into DFU mode (any pointers here are much appreciated)

will the fact that there is UN900 and UN980 present cause this kind of issue? do they need to be removed as there is no nands on that side of the logic board? what else could cause this boot looping as Ive only encounter this on the Pro and Max chips but never the base (2nand) models?


what should the next steps be to complete this upgrade?
 
i want to upgrade my Macbook Pro 14 inch A2442 from 1 TB to 8 TB (M1 Pro Chip). Can someone share the complete partlist, which passive / active components need to be add besides the 8 pieces of 8T85K Nands? Thanks a lot!
Read the earlier posts on this thread. Dosdude has put a mouser shopping list for this process (I know he has don't it for m2 and above) m1 series used most of the same part around the nands but the power chips are different.... but most of the hard work has been done
 
DosDUDE/ POLYSOFT- HELP ME PLEASE!

after doing multiple SSD upgrades I thought I had a decent understanding of the process.... obviously not!

I was in the process of upgrading a MacBook Pro m1 (base model 512GB but with an uncommon config-5nand)

want to upgrade to 2TB so removed all 5 nands and installed the 4X512GB NANDS (correct Pin1 position and used blank nands)

for some reason its keeps boot looping and won't enter into DFU mode. only used DFU jumper pads on the 2 landing pad models and the lay out is a bit different so my attempts didn't really work trying to force it into DFU mode (any pointers here are much appreciated)

will the fact that there is UN900 and UN980 present cause this kind of issue? do they need to be removed as there is no nands on that side of the logic board? what else could cause this boot looping as Ive only encounter this on the Pro and Max chips but never the base (2nand) models?


what should the next steps be to complete this upgrade?
If you’re going from a 5-NAND to a 4-NAND config, you also need to remove the second 338S00600 “Ocarina” IC from the board as well. That should resolve your issue, though check schematic for appropriate points to short to force it to enter DFU mode (be sure battery is disconnected to be able to do so, both the ribbon and screw contact).
 
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i want to upgrade my Macbook Pro 14 inch A2442 from 1 TB to 8 TB (M1 Pro Chip). Can someone share the complete partlist, which passive / active components need to be add besides the 8 pieces of 8T85K Nands? Thanks a lot!
Links to all parts can be found here: https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/apple-silicon-soldered-ssd-upgrade-thread.2417822/post-33604156

Everything is the same except for the 2.5V regulator, which is a different package than the M2+ models but is also readily available, and possibly its support components. Reference the existing 2.5V regulator for the existing 4 NANDs to get correct part number, and schematics to double-check for correct support components.
 
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If you’re going from a 5-NAND to a 4-NAND config, you also need to remove the second 338S00600 “Ocarina” IC from the board as well. That should resolve your issue, though check schematic for appropriate points to short to force it to enter DFU mode (be sure battery is disconnected to be able to do so, both the ribbon and screw contact).
thanks for the quick response!

so I've removed the UN900 (338S00600 is on both sides of nand sets, only removed it from the side where the landing pads are now vacant and kept the UN400 as it was).

I also removed the LT8642EV-2#PBF which is in the UN980 position.

I tested the logic board outside the MacBook chassis via USB power input and the meter shows its boosting unto 20v but still seems to be boot looping according to the meter.

I will now try placing it back into the bottom case and for it into DFU without the battery (both screw and ribbon connector)... but what exactly shout I be looking for upon the schematic when it comes to "appropriate points to short to force it to enter DFU mode"

sorry!!! Im not close to being competent when its comes to reading these schematics and what to do in these situations to force these machines into DFU state. I know SV100 and RV120 are key point on the board regarding DFU jumper pads but the exact ones that need bridging are a but of a mystery to me!


also when trying to force into DFU will I need to use a power input for the MacBook (that is being upgraded) or will the power from the host Mac be sufficient in this situation? normally when I carry out the DFU restore after a nand upgrade I only use power from the host Mac with one wire into the dfu port on the Macbook (that being upgraded), is this still the same process?
 
thanks for the quick response!

so I've removed the UN900 (338S00600 is on both sides of nand sets, only removed it from the side where the landing pads are now vacant and kept the UN400 as it was).

I also removed the LT8642EV-2#PBF which is in the UN980 position.

I tested the logic board outside the MacBook chassis via USB power input and the meter shows its boosting unto 20v but still seems to be boot looping according to the meter.

I will now try placing it back into the bottom case and for it into DFU without the battery (both screw and ribbon connector)... but what exactly shout I be looking for upon the schematic when it comes to "appropriate points to short to force it to enter DFU mode"

sorry!!! Im not close to being competent when its comes to reading these schematics and what to do in these situations to force these machines into DFU state. I know SV100 and RV120 are key point on the board regarding DFU jumper pads but the exact ones that need bridging are a but of a mystery to me!


also when trying to force into DFU will I need to use a power input for the MacBook (that is being upgraded) or will the power from the host Mac be sufficient in this situation? normally when I carry out the DFU restore after a nand upgrade I only use power from the host Mac with one wire into the dfu port on the Macbook (that being upgraded), is this still the same process?
The rail name is "SOC_FORCE_DFU", and needs to be shorted to 1.2V rail while plugging power into the machine (via USB-C power adapter). It needs to continue to be held shorted a few seconds after power is applied. It will pull about 100 mA at 5V from USB-C if done correctly.

Also you should remove UN400 as well.
 
M3 Max 16” MacBook Pro upgrade from 512GB to 8TB SUCCESSFUL with 8x K5A8 NANDs after installing over 100 passive components (plus some voltage regulators)! Because there are no schematics available for this model, I referenced an M2 Pro 16” MacBook Pro schematic to painstakingly draw a set of diagrams to locate each of the necessary components on the M3 Max board (as all the components are identical between the two, the locations on the board, though, are not). I should note that I only installed the necessary components, and omitted a number of decoupling capacitors, which has proven to not be an issue. Installing those would bring the component total to almost 200... Which is a lot to solder by hand.

Relevant Mouser projects and parts:


View attachment 2458598View attachment 2458599View attachment 2458600View attachment 2458601
What an amazing job!
Also I have an A2991 16” M3 Pro that comes with only 512GB (4x 128GB) from the factory. I'd like to upgrade to 1TB. Somebody know what NAND model suites better? And when changing the NANDs do I need to pre-program them or do they just have to be blank?
 
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