I think OpenBoardView should be able to read the CAD files, but I've been using FlexBV which I know works with them (though they take awhile to load).
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Apple Silicon Soldered SSD Upgrade Thread
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I tried 2 chips and had the same error.
We have P15 nand programmer. But it cannot recognize h23b8t85k7afj-bc for now. Is there a way to make this chip blank again?
Could you please recommend a program that includes an up-to-date schematic of the board and allows viewing a valid configuration for the iPad Pro M1?
where to dig for NAND: DBL_PRIME BOM OPTION?
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once a nand has been written upon, there is no going back to blank....and in that case the nand is most likely unusable
unless you have the exact dump files needed for that specific chip model n installation config. I only have the dump files for KICM223 Nands. (which is a BGA110 chip-1tb x2 config used in m1 series)
but this adds another layer of potential issues as by using dump files you have now assigned each nand to a particular slot/landing pad on the board itself (un000 or un100) often seen on the videos listen as 0 and 1. so one must ensure that they solder each of the nands in its designated location.
these and a host of other issues is why most people resort to ensuring the nand chips they are using are in fact blank
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ermm so I scrubbed using a little bit too much pressure.... been used to doing BGA110 and they are a little more durable than these 315's.... have anyone else had this kinda issue? any suggestions?
I don't have a schematic for this exact board but ive seen the pin lay out on other 315 and noticed a few of them are identical pins (two pins right next to each other and connect to the exact same point on board view). but truth be told I don't know the extent of this kinda damage.
just want to know if it is even worth going round and adding the thinnest possible layer of UV mask to differentiate each pad?
they all seem to be present... no ripped pads, just damaged lol
any info would be useful. much appreciated!
I don't have a schematic for this exact board but ive seen the pin lay out on other 315 and noticed a few of them are identical pins (two pins right next to each other and connect to the exact same point on board view). but truth be told I don't know the extent of this kinda damage.
just want to know if it is even worth going round and adding the thinnest possible layer of UV mask to differentiate each pad?
they all seem to be present... no ripped pads, just damaged lol
any info would be useful. much appreciated!
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Nothing to worry about, those pins are supposed to be connected so it won't hurt anything. Though, one thing I do notice is the ends of the components on the one side seem to have a bit of their solder removed (this can happen if you scrape too close to them with the underfill tool). I'd recommend going over them and touching each one up. Leaving them that way could cause issues (I have had it happen before).
I tired to follow your (Dosdude1) instructions and touch up the edges, all was going fine and well until absolute disaster struck... was holding the tweezers with THAT missing piece and needed to sneeze, was at the worst possible timing.
now i've got a headache of a situation from a simple upgrade as the tiny component went flying and trying to find it feels impossible. genuinely gutted, such a simple error. beaten my self up about it plenty and now came on here to seek help
so this all happened when I was doing a Mac mini m4 and in a nutshell I lost the 2nd to last piece on the end of this row. if anyone can help me locate find the values of this component and then maybe I could find a replacement on mouser.... finger crossed.
any advice im all ears...
now i've got a headache of a situation from a simple upgrade as the tiny component went flying and trying to find it feels impossible. genuinely gutted, such a simple error. beaten my self up about it plenty and now came on here to seek help
so this all happened when I was doing a Mac mini m4 and in a nutshell I lost the 2nd to last piece on the end of this row. if anyone can help me locate find the values of this component and then maybe I could find a replacement on mouser.... finger crossed.
any advice im all ears...
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Closest to the connector in that spot should be a 0 ohm resistor, above that a 10pF 25V capacitor, and above that a 200 ohm resistor. It looks like the capacitor may have gotten moved down to the wrong set of pads.
If you want to order all the parts, my Mouser project can be found here: https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=fd9bd9decb
Otherwise, these are the parts you need:
- 10pF capacitor: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/81-GRT0335C1E100JA2D
- 200 Ohm resistor: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/667-ERA-1AEB201C
- 0 Ohm resistor:https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/667-ERJ-1GN0R00C
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that worked out great as I had a donor board with missing component that I can use.... but only for me realize that I have messed up with the other part of the board with more passive components.(as you can see in my last post) silly one to over look, I know!
could I bug you for a read on just one more part for me. the one highlighted in the pictures below. the larger on is fine. thats been put back but the smaller one ive got mixed up with.... thanks again!
added an updated pic to show what is missing.
could I bug you for a read on just one more part for me. the one highlighted in the pictures below. the larger on is fine. thats been put back but the smaller one ive got mixed up with.... thanks again!
added an updated pic to show what is missing.
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Looks like just a decoupling capacitor, which can be left omitted.
