Ah - LOL
Sorry...
It's impossible to tell, with all the nonsense going around.
I'm thinking about making a video. Now, I just need to convince my hot wife and get some grey hair dye so that people take me seriously.
The lux at the sensor is the same for a given aperture, BUT if you're tryng to mentally compare low light performance between sensor sizes it helps to think of equivalent aperture.
The APS sensor is gathering as much light with the f2.8 lens as a FF with an f4.2. The MFT sensor is gathering the equivalent of an f5.6 lens even if it has an f2.8 lens.
Tony Northrup's point is that when, for example, Panasonic touts their LX-7 as having an f1.7 lens and therefore good in low light, they're misleading you, because the camera only has a 1/1.7" sensor
Also, like I said lux at the sensor is the same BUT that's irrelevant. We aren't exposing film so that value has no meaning to us.
Correct. And irrelevant to assessing the exposure and irrelevant to how the lens projects an image. You are talking about sensor differences, lenses should not be described based on sensor differences. So a 200mm f/2.8 IS a 200mm f/2.8.
NO.
This is wrong.
When a m43 sensor based on equivalent technology shoots at F2.8, it is getting 1/2 the light that a FF sensor gets. BUT It only needs half the light because it is half the size. This like how it takes less paint to cover a wall than it takes to redo the whole room. If the paint is the same thickness, it doesn't magically become less opaque because you used less of it. It is covering less area.
There are FF cameras that can shoot crop lenses. It would be easy to prove, but I have a crop sensor already. Hell, Tony Northrup's videos show this already, but everyone clinging to this exposure myth want to make up unsupported crap about how different the sensors are.
Again, 100ISO on a sunny day = F16. It doesn't matter if you are FF, APSC, M43, or medium format film. If the exposure change was true, then the sunny 16 rule would not work.
NO ONE is saying to rename the lens. Tony and I are saying that when the manufacturer gives an equivalent focal length they should also give an equivalent aperture
They're not. The 60mm at f2.8 on APS-C has an equivalent DOF to 90mm f4.2 on full frame! The total amount of light is also exactly equivalent between the two. If the APS-C and FF are both 24 megapixel, the noisiness of the image will be very similar.
Does this example make more sense?
You are simply not understanding Tony's point.
Nobody is saying to change the aperture numbers, or the ISO numbers, or the focal length numbers.
Does a DX lens have equivalent focal length numbers written on it? NO. But the equivalents are given in advertising materials.
That's what we are saying should be done with apertures. Rather than simply say "MFT 30mm f2.8 equivalent to 60mm FF" you say "MFT 30mm f2.8 equivalent to 60mm f5.6 FF".
Let me say this again.
The aperture numbers in camera settings would not change.
The focal length in camera settings would not change.
The ISO in camera settings would not change.
But to state that is incorrect and misleading, I understand his point I just disagree with it and hold it has no basis in physics. I really can't state it any clearer than that. If you hold that it does have a basis in physics please state how - so far there has been nothing proposed that is relevant to how a lens passes light, much stated about sensor noise and pixel density, none of which is remotely a case for re-stating the aperture of a lens as anything different to its physical aperture.
Please don't keep reiterating that I don't understand his point without some evidence that his point is valid...
NO ONE is saying to rename the lens. Tony and I are saying that when the manufacturer gives an equivalent focal length they should also give an equivalent aperture
I've typed example like 10 times already but I will do it again. They should advertise the 30mm f2.8 lens equivalency numbers as "60mm equivalent, f5.6 equivalent"
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This is ridiculous...
First of all the MFT sensor is half the size in each direction. That makes it 1/4 the area.
They're not. The 60mm at f2.8 on APS-C has an equivalent DOF to 90mm f4.2 on full frame! The total amount of light is also exactly equivalent between the two.
If the APS-C and FF are both 24 megapixel, the noisiness of the image will be very similar.
if they are both 24 megapixels they are not equivalent technology. Now the APSC has smaller pixels.
The bright side of this argument is all the positive reinforcement that I need a D750 so I can finally prove someone on the internet is just wrong.
This.
You can't change two things at once and then claim the end result is due to only one of them.
1. For equivalent pixel size, sensors of all sizes receive the same amount of light per pixel.
2. For equivalent sensor size, smaller pixels receive less light than larger pixels.
3. The only way to determine the actual effect of changing sensor size is to...wait for it...only change the sensor size. The only way we currently have to do that is to use the "crop" mode on FF DSLRs (or, as I've repeatedly pointed out, use different sizes of film).
Again, when I take a photograph on the same film stock with my Leica or on my Hasselblad or on my 4x5 camera, I don't have to compute the equivalent f/stop for each system *with respect to the exposure*. Of course I *do* have to consider that f/5.6 on the Leica is MUCH deeper DoF than f/5.6 on the Hasselblad (let alone the 4x5), if the focal length is held constant. That *is* a consequence of the different film sizes.
When I make 8x10 prints from the three negatives (35mm, 6x6, and 4x5), the 35mm has much more grain. Why? Not because it received less light per unit area (it didn't), but because I have to enlarge it a whole lot more than the others. And when I enlarge, I'm enlarging grain too. So the less I enlarge, the less prominent the grain.
EXACTLY the same process is at work with a digital sensor. The only hiccup with digital is that pixel sizes can vary as well, thus altering the PER PIXEL efficiency of the sensor.
Consider sensor A has 48MP and sensor B (of the same size) has 12. In this case, sensor A has pixels that capture 1/4 the light of sensor B. But the TOTAL light captured over the entire sensor is the same (because there are more pixels). If you then bin the pixels 4:1 (reducing the 48MP image down to 12MP), you effectively increase the efficiency of the 48MP sensor (at the cost of resolution), and thus reduce the noise in the final output. This was demonstrated nicely in a DPReview link posted above re: the A7s and A7r.
An 18MP m4/3 sensor is noisier than an 18MP FF sensor for two reasons: (1) the pixels are smaller, thus placing the output of each pixel closer to the noise floor and (2) the enlargement required to reach a given output size is greater. Only (2) is directly related to the sensor size, however.
This guy is selling a product... any time someone is selling something, especially on technique, skill, and information about a subject you'll have debate of it... This only helps him gain more views on you tube and more money. If you don't like him, don't watch his videos or create threads about him because it only helps him. This guy is like Ken Rockwell 2.0 . Clearly all the negative stuff written about Ken only helped him make more money since his website is still the main source of his income. Now I don't know much of his photography skills, but if you look up his website it's quite shocking how little work he has on it... and I personally don't find it very good overall. So you can use that as a personal indicator of how much he actually knows or doesn't know.
The thing is, Tony Northrup isn't wrong. It's just that a lot of people don't understand what he's saying because they don't have the technical knowledge. Here's an article about equivalent aperture with a LONG discussion thread. If you read through it, it will probably make sense http://www.dpreview.com/articles/2666934640/what-is-equivalence-and-why-should-i-care
From that linked article "As such, you can say that a 50mm f/2 for Micro Four Thirds is equivalent to a 100mm f/4 Full Frame lens in terms of both field-of-view and depth-of-field."
Note, no mention at all of exposure.
No argument with that at all. The problem comes with Tony using DSLR and interchangeable lenses to demonstrate. As soon as you can move a lens between formats you cannot quote an "equivalence-for-depth-of-field" aperture 'cos you don't know what format body you will be attaching it to.
Do what you like with a fixed, non-changeable lens camera, any of the described factors are open to be described as anything, you have no idea what actual numbers are, and it largely doesn't matter to those users.
Once you have an interchangeable lens then the most important aspect of its aperture is for exposure, not DoF, as that has to be correct and match with the expectations of different bodies.
DoF tables have always been separate information, they should remain so. TBH honest changing the "equivalent" aperture even for DoF is IMHO a waste of time, anyone who doesn't understand the implications won't care, those that care will likely have enough knowledge to cope and adjust based on the DoF they see in their images.
It's not a waste of time, it's useful for directly and fairly comparing different formats. Many knowledgeable photographers fall for the lie that the little compact camera they're buying is good in low light because the lens if f1.7 or whatever.
BTW we actually could design cameras so that the equivalent aperture is used for settings and ISO is adjusted accordingly.
For example a MFT camera can have its aperture numbers doubled and ISO numbers doubled too. It would help any photographer who has experience with FF, because the settings for a given DOF would be identical
Those compact cameras are good in low light because of aperture 1.7. Certainly they are better than they would be at f3.4, right?
Now that tiny little sensor still has all the limitations of a tiny little sensor. This includes the inability to isolate a subject with focus. It includes having tiny little pixels that cannot gather light as readily as a full frame sensor with the same number of much larger pixels.
However, it does not alter the exposure reading. light coming through the lens and focused on an M43 sensor is EXACTLY THE SAME as the light coming through the lens and focused onto an M43 sized area of a full frame sensor. The light that the FF sensor collects on the outer reaches is light that wouldn't hit the M43 sensor anyway.
Maybe what you need to argue is how the camera manufacturers are assigning ISO values to their sensors. Who says a sensor is at ISO100, 400, or 3200? How is this measured and are camera makers fudging it a bit to make the specs look good? Because, the laws of physics for light are not bending for anyone.
Remember that the focal length of the lens isn't changing when you put it on a M43 camera. The field of view is all that changes.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_factor (wikipedia link for easy reading)
http://www.clarkvision.com/imagedetail/digital.sensor.performance.summary/index.html (more technical version for advanced readers)
So, the focal length does not change. The Diameter does not change. Therefore, the APERTURE DOES NOT CHANGE. End of story.
The only equivalence is depth of field. People who care about this should already know it. No need to relabel every lens for it.
Yes we all get it. Focal length does not change. But we refer to equivalent focal length because it's useful information to have when comparing different systems and compact cameras etc. There is a reason compact cameras aren't advertised as "5mm-100mm lens". Instead they say "25mm-500mm equivalent lens" because consumers understand the field of view they're getting with equvalent numbers. Again, we all understand that the focal length is what it is.
In the same way that equivalent focal length is useful, equivalent aperture is useful. It tells you plainly and simply what kind of DOF you can expect, and what performance in low light you can expect
Is there anyone experienced in Cine in here to clear it up? I would imagine someone who frequently uses the same lenses on different film stock and size or different systems (RED, Canon, Black Magic, Alexa...) would have a pretty good grasp on this. I've read through this entire thread, and frankly I'm just confused now... I don't buy Northrup's argument either, but have only my very tiny understanding to go by.
Has anyone out there used the same lens on 16mm and 35mm film from the same stock? Does that affect the exposure? Is that even a good comparison to sensor sizes?