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DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

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The first post of this thread is a WikiPost and can be edited by anyone with the appropiate permissions. Your edits will be public.
SubDriver said:
I am planning to start my 2017 iMac conversion as soon as this weekend if I get all the parts.

I have ordered the SA1 (arrives tomorrow), crossovers for the speakers, a boost voltage converter. I am planning to use the original power supply based on my experience converting my 2011 iMac over the last few months. The flexibility it provides due to the number of leads and its power output may come in handy for several aspects.

I will post details of my experience with the conversion. I am not sure how many others have tried using a boost voltage converter so I may be breaking some new ground.

I shouldn’t have more than 2 or 3 wires coming from the display - wil depend on whether I leave a drive or two installed or not.
Click to expand...
Thank You, its much appreciated.

I have been looking around the some of the 3D printed parts and I really like Xarl-Li's iMac fan conversion and I also really like his iMac Ram Cover design. Not sure if I will go with that option yet but its a really clean look. I also found this SA1 board mount, I know Xarl-Li also created one but he noted that it wasn't tested like this one is.
 
scoobdriver said:
Ok further to my last post and doing some testing it seems when the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 enters standby mode when it comes out the audio does not work. I need to switch the display on and off to get it to work , it then works until it goes into standby mode again.
Click to expand...

Xarl-li said:
I have the same motherboard, I can't control the audio from any app.

I never turn off two monitors, I use OSX's active corners to put both monitors and sistem to sleep, and when I wake them up I have no problems with the audio. Check the audio settings in OSX.
Click to expand...

I'm also experiencing the same issue as you @scoobdriver, and haven't managed to find a fix for it yet. Any luck on your end?
 
FML!! I knew I waited too long crack open my iMac and find out what board I needed. Warning to everyone who hasn't yet bought their display conversion board, I just got charged a $99 tariff on the SA1 board I bought today. Excuse me, I am now going to go crying in a corner.
 
Pabo49 said:
Hi works with Macmini M4? HDMI? USB-C or DP?
Click to expand...
Yup, got it working with my M4 mini via USB-C, HDMI and DP. Have it plugged in via USB-C running fine.

Because I’m using a JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 board I’m only getting 8Bit colour, but you can get different boards which will get full 10Bit colour
 
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Long time lurker, first time poster.
Using the great information provided in this thread I went ahead and did my conversion this weekend. I used the following components:
  • SA1 board
  • 3D printed adapter board from Thingyverse: fit well overal but had to dremmel of one support stud on the iMac side.
  • Mean Well power supply
  • Cheap AliExpress crossover audio filters most people seem to recommend
  • Cheap AliExpress webcam
  • Connection via USB-C so I can use the webcam etc.
Went well:
  • The screen is gorgeous hokked uo to a MacMini M4 (upgraded with an AliExpres 2TB SSD)
  • Webcam adequate
  • iMac's original power button works
  • I have not added a fan (due to fear of noise) but I don't think that heat is an issue)
I do have some remaining issues that I have not yet seen adressed:
  • Sound quality is underwhelming; tbh the MacMini sounds better which is ridiculous. Things I will try to improve sound and open questions:
    • I have hooked up the speakers through the SA1 board's headphone jack; would a 'direct' connection to the board (using the molex like plugs) likely improve things?
    • I have ordered a cheap USB soundcard from AliExpress. Anyone has any experience as to whether that improves things?
    • Will adding audio grade capacitors and air-core inductors improve the sound?
  • The SA1-board sometime 'crashes'; I think it jappens when the macMini goes to sleep and there is no input for prolonged periods of time. The LED on the OSD menu board shines red and the OSD board does not accept any inputs. The screen remains black even after the MacMini wakes up from sleep. The only remedy seems tp be to un- and replug the screen's power cord.
    • Anyone else seeing the same thing?
    • If so, what's your remedy?
    • Is there maybe a new formware for this board?
    • If so, where would I get that and how would I install it; the website says that it can automatically install new firmware but the mechanism eludes me
  • I am planning to use the screen as a USB-A hub too (to reduce clutter on the MacMini's side which will be limited to USB-C only). Not looking for dramatic performance (webcam, maybe USB audio, keaboard, mouse; no SSDs). Any experience with that setup? the USB-C connection should be able to handle the additional load easily. But will waking the MacMini from sleep still work?
Again, thank you all for being such an open and sharing community; your advice has been invaluable in getting this conversion right in the first go.
 
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@adriansp "I have hooked up the speakers through the SA1 board's headphone jack; would a 'direct' connection to the board (using the molex like plugs) likely improve things?
  • I have ordered a cheap USB soundcard from AliExpress. Anyone has any experience as to whether that improves things?
  • Will adding audio grade capacitors and air-core inductors improve the sound?"
The sound into your speakers must be connected to the 4-pin socket near the small audio heatsink on the SA1.
You need a 4 way JST PH plug, which you can buy with the wire tails already installed.

The SA1 audio amplifier is only 3W so is relatively underpowered. However if you connect it to the correct socket it should give a better result. The Headphone jack is the wrong impedance and much lower power.

I don't know which crossover you have, but it should give acceptable results if it is the Balee 2.1 one with just an inductor and one capacitor.
If it is the red one marked YLY-2088 then jumpers A and B should be disconnected, and C and D connected.

"The SA1-board sometime 'crashes'..."
I don't know if that is the typical behaviour of the JRY--SA1 board.
Have any other SA1 users experienced this?

"Is there maybe a new formware for this board?"
There has been no mention of availabilty of different firmware versions for any of the JRY boards.
Only the R9A18 and R1811 boards have different versions available, and the versions available for these boards have been updated several times over the years.

"I am planning to use the screen as a USB-A hub too..."
The expert in this is @Aiwi who has written an excellent blog.
 
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Few updates… can confirm T18, AA1 and FA1 boards all work with Mac Mini M4 using DP to USB - all nice and stable too. I think the T18 is a superior board to the other 2 though, so going to try grab a couple more of those to store away for later.

I have popped an AA1 board into one of my screens and added nutserts for vesa mounting on a removable arm in my caravan and it’s pretty cool! I also included the fan and logic boards of an Apple TV 4K inside the iMac as well before zipping it up. Fortunately as I was gutting that iMac I thought to leave the original airport antennas alone, so I’ve plugged them into the Apple TV logic board and they work great!! All powered direct from the caravan 12v system.

The iMac will serve as my work monitor when travelling as well as our caravan tv (using streaming etc via our Starlink), so has a DP pigtail to plug into, but otherwise it defaults to wake with the Apple TV on hdmi 4K 👌🏼 audio provided by the caravan Homepod Mini.

IMG_0493.jpeg

IMG_0492.jpeg
 
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PaulD-UK said:
@adriansp "I have hooked up the speakers through the SA1 board's headphone jack; would a 'direct' connection to the board (using the molex like plugs) likely improve things?
  • I have ordered a cheap USB soundcard from AliExpress. Anyone has any experience as to whether that improves things?
  • Will adding audio grade capacitors and air-core inductors improve the sound?"
The sound into your speakers must be connected to the 4-pin socket near the small audio heatsink on the SA1.
You need a 4 way JST PH plug, which you can buy with the wire tails already installed.

The SA1 audio amplifier is only 3W so is relatively underpowered. However if you connect it to the correct socket it should give a better result. The Headphone jack is the wrong impedance and much lower power.

I don't know which crossover you have, but it should give acceptable results if it is the Balee 2.1 one with just an inductor and one capacitor.
If it is the red one marked YLY-2088 then jumpers A and B should be disconnected, and C and D connected.

"The SA1-board sometime 'crashes'..."
I don't know if that is the typical behaviour of the JRY--SA1 board.
Have any other SA1 users experienced this?

"Is there maybe a new formware for this board?"
There has been no mention of availabilty of different firmware versions for any of the JRY boards.
Only the R9A18 and R1811 boards have different versions available, and the versions available for these boards have been updated several times over the years.

"I am planning to use the screen as a USB-A hub too..."
The expert in this is @Aiwi who has written an excellent blog.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the detailed answer. Wow, it seems that most of what I did with the audio is plain wrong:
  • Using the headphone jack instead of the JST PH
  • wrong crossover
  • and I realised that I hooked up bass & tweeter the wrong way around for one side; didn't realise the plugs were mirrored and did the same arrangement for both sides. Unfortunately, I don't know anymore, which is which (will have to find a way to test for this)
Have ordered the JST PH plug and the correct crossover and will report back once that is installed.
 
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jag001 said:
I also included the fan and logic boards of an Apple TV 4K inside the iMac as well before zipping it up. Fortunately as I was gutting that iMac I thought to leave the original airport antennas alone, so I’ve plugged them into the Apple TV logic board and they work great!! All powered direct from the caravan 12v system.

The iMac will serve as my work monitor when travelling as well as our caravan tv (using streaming etc via our Starlink), so has a DP pigtail to plug into, but otherwise it defaults to wake with the Apple TV on hdmi 4K 👌🏼 audio provided by the caravan Homepod Mini.
Click to expand...
Very creative to come up with the idea to add the Apple TV inside your display.
And a very nice looking setup you have made
 
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adriansp said:
Long time lurker, first time poster.
Using the great information provided in this thread I went ahead and did my conversion this weekend. I used the following components:
  • SA1 board
  • 3D printed adapter board from Thingyverse: fit well overal but had to dremmel of one support stud on the iMac side.
  • Mean Well power supply
  • Cheap AliExpress crossover audio filters most people seem to recommend
  • Cheap AliExpress webcam
  • Connection via USB-C so I can use the webcam etc.
Went well:
  • The screen is gorgeous hokked uo to a MacMini M4 (upgraded with an AliExpres 2TB SSD)
  • Webcam adequate
  • iMac's original power button works
  • I have not added a fan (due to fear of noise) but I don't think that heat is an issue)
I do have some remaining issues that I have not yet seen adressed:
  • Sound quality is underwhelming; tbh the MacMini sounds better which is ridiculous. Things I will try to improve sound and open questions:
    • I have hooked up the speakers through the SA1 board's headphone jack; would a 'direct' connection to the board (using the molex like plugs) likely improve things?
    • I have ordered a cheap USB soundcard from AliExpress. Anyone has any experience as to whether that improves things?
    • Will adding audio grade capacitors and air-core inductors improve the sound?
  • The SA1-board sometime 'crashes'; I think it jappens when the macMini goes to sleep and there is no input for prolonged periods of time. The LED on the OSD menu board shines red and the OSD board does not accept any inputs. The screen remains black even after the MacMini wakes up from sleep. The only remedy seems tp be to un- and replug the screen's power cord.
    • Anyone else seeing the same thing?
    • If so, what's your remedy?
    • Is there maybe a new formware for this board?
    • If so, where would I get that and how would I install it; the website says that it can automatically install new firmware but the mechanism eludes me
  • I am planning to use the screen as a USB-A hub too (to reduce clutter on the MacMini's side which will be limited to USB-C only). Not looking for dramatic performance (webcam, maybe USB audio, keaboard, mouse; no SSDs). Any experience with that setup? the USB-C connection should be able to handle the additional load easily. But will waking the MacMini from sleep still work?
Again, thank you all for being such an open and sharing community; your advice has been invaluable in getting this conversion right in the first go.
Click to expand...
I ended up buying a Orico USB Hub that can attach to the iMac. I am still waiting for my board to come in, its been at the airport in China for 3 days now awaiting shipment, guessing its being knocked back due to all the companies buying priority access to beat the tariffs.

One of the things I am contemplating is attaching a usb webcam to the board connect it to the monitor and use that instead. Does anybody know if that will work? I mainly use the iMac's mic and not the webcam so doing just the board webcam won't work for my purpose.
 
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@UniqueUserName1234
If you use those crossover units, and leave all jumpers connected, you should get an OK result with the SA1 board.

If you would like better sound, then a separate stereo audio amplifier is needed.
The cheap pcb amplifiers from AliExpress etc are often not good quality - unless you get a more expensive one that has been reviewed as giving good performance.

You can connect the input to the amp either from the headphone audio jack socket on the SA1, or directly from your Mac using an additional audio cable to the monitor.

If you connect to the Mac using a USB-C cable, then it's likely you could connect a USB 2 audio interface to one of the USB-A ports on the SA1, and you would get a signal to feed into a separate amp from that interface (DAC).

Edited to correct.
 
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Ok, thanks so much for the advice. I am going to start the conversion tomorrow. I will see what the sound is like.
 
Last edited:
Regulus67 said:
Very creative to come up with the idea to add the Apple TV inside your display.
And a very nice looking setup you have made
Click to expand...
Everything is about weight tradeoffs with the caravan - removing the iMac stand mechanism and all internals, and the power supply etc of the Apple TV was a significant weight saving that more than offset the weight of adding the wall arm mount 👌🏼
 
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So I feel like im working a little blind with this SA1 board as no instructions at all. Could anyone advise... I assume this wire goes here lol, does it go this orientation (red wires on right), or red wires on left ?

IMG_2618 Small.jpeg
IMG_2619 Small.jpeg
 
Does anybody have a good solution for removing the iMac's built standoffs? I wanted to remove a few of them because they were getting in the way but they are on solidly.
 
Archmage2002 said:
Does anybody have a good solution for removing the iMac's built standoffs? I wanted to remove a few of them because they were getting in the way but they are on solidly.
Click to expand...
I find they come off surprisingly easy - I use a pair of lock-grip pliers, give a little twist and light bend and they come away with very little force.
 
Waiting for some "liquid metal putty" to fix the female adapters inside iMAC to be used with slightly enlarged original "holes" for DP and USB connections. Took more time to finish the project than anticipated. The putty seem to be stuck somewhere on the way from china...
But in the meantime I have "unsoldered" the IR-reciever from the control board, and connected some extension cables, so the IR receiver can be fixed and visible in another of the old "ports".
Am now thinking about doing the same with the diode from on the control board, for it to be visible on the "outside" of the iMAC. But then I wondered if it would be easier to just add another diode. And last, if that addition of another diode would ofset the resitance of the circuit and mess things up. Here showing off my total lack of knowledge in electronics.
What do you guys think, who knows this stuff? Would it be possible to add a second diode and extend it to a good spot, or is it the "unsoldering route" that is the only possible way? Anyone else been thinking/doing something similar?
 
@Mowgli10L
You can use another LED, but having both connected at the same time might cause problems, I haven't tried it.

You need a 3mm bi-colour LED with common cathode (–ve connection).
Or you can use two single colour LEDs.
This pic shows the connections, connect the LED cathode to either Gnd pin, and connect the anodes (+ve) to the two marked LED pins:

Control strip.jpg


I’ve posted before (about the JRY--AA1) - your board has different connections but the LED is the same:

 
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