DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

[MacUser4554]

I could use some help here. I'm sure it's something simple I must have overlooked and I'm a newbie (please be kind) but... I bought the R1811 board and gutted a 2015 iMac Retina 5k. I've connected everything up and the best I can get out of the display is 4k and not 5k. I have the R1811 connected to a 2017 iMac using a USB C to DisplayPort 1.4 cable. The box on the cable states it will support up to 7680 x 4320 @ 60Hz. The iMac sees the external display as a G1-27 Display.

Apple's own 5k Studio Display states it is compatible with iMacs 2017 and later. So if the Apple 5k Studio Display can work via a Thunderbolt port, so should the R1811?

I also read that in 2018 the iMac had a newer Thunderbolt controller that appeared to work with 1.4DP whereas the early version was 1.2DP compatible.

This is all very confusing to me. Is the R1811 able to connect to a 2017 iMac and produce a 5k display signal or am I stuck at 4k? Thanks for help in advance.

I do plan to purchase an M1 Mac Studio at some point, so I guess I'll just wait until then? I really want to make sure the R1811 board is functioning as it should. The display looks great even at 4k, but hey...I did all this for 5k.

 

[yaosiang]

I could use some help here. I'm sure it's something simple I must have overlooked and I'm a newbie (please be kind) but... I bought the R1811 board and gutted a 2015 iMac Retina 5k. I've connected everything up and the best I can get out of the display is 4k and not 5k. I have the R1811 connected to the iMac using a USB C to DisplayPort 1.4 cable. The box on the cable states it will support up to 7680 x 4320 @ 60Hz. The iMac sees the external display as a G1-27 Display. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Which iMac did you connect the R1811 to? The Late 2015 iMac 27" 5K requires dual DP cables for 5K 60Hz since it does not support DP1.4. With single DP cable (1.2), you can still get 5K but only at about 46Hz. You can use SwitchResX to create the custom resolution.

Please note if you plan on using dual DP cables, you need to use a different firmware on the R1811 to have the Dual DP input option.

 

[MacUser4554]

Which iMac did you connect the R1811 to? The Late 2015 iMac 27" 5K requires dual DP cables for 5K 60Hz since it does not support DP1.4. With single DP cable (1.2), you can still get 5K but only at about 46Hz. You can use SwitchResX to create the custom resolution.

Please note if you plan on using dual DP cables, you need to use a different firmware on the R1811 to have the Dual DP input option.

It's a 2017 iMac.

 

[citivolus]

Well the time has come for me to move on. I recently purchased a Pro Display XDR and am looking to sell my 5K Retina Display using the R1811 board. Will be posting a thread in the Marketplace...

This has now been listed for sale in the Marketplace: Custom built 27" 5K Retina monitor with 5 inputs

Let me know if you have any interest!

 

[Xealstorm]

Hey guys! Maybe someone could give a hint to the root cause of this issue.
So I have the R1811 V4 board connected to the M1 MacBook via USB-C cable.
The Type-C option is set to 1.4
From time to time the screen just gets stripes like this. Sometimes after 5 mins, sometimes after 20, sometimes I am fine working for 2-3hours with no problem.

Things I tried:
- connected via DisplayPort <-> USB-C cable
- added a more powerful fan
- ordered another screen-cable and replaced the original
- tried another iMac panel (both late 2015) QQ1
The issue is still there and drives me crazy

 

[wei803]

R1811 Disadvantage:

Q1: Some customers complained to us about the Fan being noisy. Has anybody found a better fan to compatible with our heatsink? We'd be

Q2: If you're using two extended monitors sometimes you don't know which monitor you're using.
A2: The latest version of firmware already solved this problem with StoneTaskin-01 StoneTaskin-02 and StoneTaskin-03, Feel free to send me the email address and I will send you the latest version of it.

3
4
5
It'd be much appreciated if to help us improve our driver board using experience

Thank you

By anyway we could use the iMac fan? It is much larger and usually silent unless being full blast. Also you have shop or affiliate in taobao? I usually shop there.

 

[fuzzylogic12]

Hey guys new to this thread and project. I ended up ordering one of those new T18 boards. I'm going to test it out. Any particular tests you'd like me to run on it once I get it?

Hello! Which of the two models (and which option within the selected model) did you end up ordering? I am looking at ordering one of theses also. It was either the T18 or the U49. I am guessing your order will be arriving soon. I look forward to your report of how it works for you. I did notice that Package B shows it utilizing an R1811 Driver Board vice the T18 in Package A.

 

[cahixson]

@don.keishlong I’m also interested in your findings from the T18 test. Look forward to hearing from you.

On another note, is 10 Bit color really worth it? I’m not a photo or video editor so I’m wondering just how much I’ll notice. Are there any tests I can do via color profiles before I purchase?

 

[StreamyUnkle]

Hello all !
Thanks a lot for the data gathered here that's been extremely useful to me.
I've decided to go through with the process of gutting my iMac 17,1, selling all the pieces inside in order to cover the costs of the operation, and transforming it to a monitor.
I've received a R9A18 v1.1, my pizza cutter, painter tape and almost all the necessary paraphernalia except the DZ-LP0818 (I went for "better safe than sorry" on that one) and I am almost ready to proceed.
I think I know what do to do except two things: the backlight cable supposed to plug into the panel seems to be reversible...how can I know which way to put it in, given that I will be holding the panel with the other hand... ?
The other point, as I will use it with a GTX1070, which ports should I use to plug the two DP cables ? DP1 and DP2 or MST/SST +DP1 or MST/SST+DP2?
Any pointers you guys could give me on that one?
Any advice or cautionary tale are more than welcome of course !
Thanks in advance !

 

[arw]

the backlight cable supposed to plug into the panel seems to be reversible...how can I know which way to put it in

I also had to go the trial and error way as there was no documentation. I tried both orientations until it lit up; didn't fry anything.

The other point, as I will use it with a GTX1070, which ports should I use to plug the two DP cables ? DP1 and DP2 or MST/SST +DP1 or MST/SST+DP2?

DP1 and DP2

Interesting, I never heard of the DZ-LP0818 before.

 

[StreamyUnkle]

I also had to go the trial and error way as there was no documentation. I tried both orientations until it lit up; didn't fry anything.

DP1 and DP2

Interesting, I never heard of the DZ-LP0818 before

Thanks a lot !
I opened the iMac... everything went pretty fine.
But now, it seems I might have gotten the wrong cable as it doesn't feel like a match with the panel connector...
Can you guys have a look at the pictures?
Sounds like I missing something...

 

[PaulD-UK]

Thanks a lot !
I opened the iMac... everything went pretty fine.
But now, it seems I might have gotten the wrong cable as it doesn't feel like a match with the panel connector...
Can you guys have a look at the pictures?
Sounds like I missing something...

Not sure how the DZ-LP0818 complicates matters - do you have that board connected?

In my case, with a R1811 driver board ( and supplied backlight cable with the long prongs) connected direct to a D1 panel my backlight connection was exactly like this pic from my vendor's website:

 

[StreamyUnkle]

Not sure how the DZ-LP0818 complicates matters - do you have that board connected?

In my case, with a R1811 driver board ( and supplied backlight cable with the long prongs) connected direct to a D1 panel my backlight connection was exactly like this pic from my vendor's website:

View attachment 2056530

Now it works !!!
Just don't see the option for DP1 and DP2.
Do I need a firmware update ? I am at V05 it seems...
I have the R9A18 v1.1 (with the .1 written in small caps under the lvds cable)
Maybe @arw can help me (or anybody else who has V06 or a more recent version on hand!)

By the way, brightness seems AOK... Not sure if I am going to use the DZ-LP0818 after all...

 

[arw]

Now it works !!!
Just don't see the option for DP1 and DP2.
Do I need a firmware update ? I am at V05 it seems...
I have the R9A18 v1.1 (with the .1 written in small caps under the lvds cable)
Maybe @arw can help me (or anybody else who has V06 or a more recent version on hand!)

By the way, brightness seems AOK... Not sure if I am going to use the DZ-LP0818 after all...

I can happily PM you the V06 but it‘s strange that you don‘t see dual DP input. Even with V05 it should be there. I don‘t think anyone (including me) had a 1.1 revision… so maybe first try to contact the seller to be sure.

 

[StreamyUnkle]

I can happily PM you the V06 but it‘s strange that you don‘t see dual DP input. Even with V05 it should be there. I don‘t think anyone (including me) had a 1.1 revision… so maybe first try to contact the seller to be sure.

Thanks a lot @arw !!!
It does work now !
Only issue is that the remote stopped working 😃

 

[arw]

Thanks a lot @arw !!!
It does work now !
Only issue is that the remote stopped working 😃

Ok, great to hear! Also the 10 bpc @ RGB is exactly what one would like to see.
I don't have a matching remote so I can't test it, sorry.
If you can, try contacting your seller if they can provide an even newer firmware.

 

[rpmurray]

Anyone had any experience with Juicy Crumb? They apparently are working on a drop in board that will let you turn an older 2011 27 inch iMac into an external display, with future designs for other iMacs.

Turn Your Broken iMac Into A New Standalone Display!
Juicy Crumb - 2011 27" iMac Upgrade Logic Board

It's a Kickstarter so big red flag there.

I've always thought that creating drop-in boards for the various iMac versions with either non-functional or activation locked logic boards would be a great thing for a company like iFixit to get into. They could sell them on their website, and repair, refurb and recycle companies that had been previously scrapping the iMacs for parts could turn them instead into external displays and sell them much cheaper than the Studio Display for people who want the Apple aesthetic but don't want to pay the huge markup.

 

[DJLC]

I've always thought that creating drop-in boards for the various iMac versions with either non-functional or activation locked logic boards would be a great thing for a company like iFixit to get into. They could sell them on their website, and repair, refurb and recycle companies that had been previously scrapping the iMacs for parts could turn them instead into external displays and sell them much cheaper than the Studio Display for people who want the Apple aesthetic but don't want to pay the huge markup.

This looks amazing... I would've felt safer with something like this vs. the mysterious eBay boards from China. And being able to drop in an M1 mini LB? Brilliant.

Granted, my mysterious eBay boards are still working great in my two 21.5" iMac 4K monitors (and with the stock speakers, too).

 

[VegetarianNachos]

Anyone had any experience with Juicy Crumb? They apparently are working on a drop in board that will let you turn an older 2011 27 inch iMac into an external display, with future designs for other iMacs.

Turn Your Broken iMac Into A New Standalone Display!
Juicy Crumb - 2011 27" iMac Upgrade Logic Board

It's a Kickstarter so big red flag there.

I've always thought that creating drop-in boards for the various iMac versions with either non-functional or activation locked logic boards would be a great thing for a company like iFixit to get into. They could sell them on their website, and repair, refurb and recycle companies that had been previously scrapping the iMacs for parts could turn them instead into external displays and sell them much cheaper than the Studio Display for people who want the Apple aesthetic but don't want to pay the huge markup.

This is pretty confusing for me. I can see that the ability to drop in an M1 Mac mini board could be a benefit for someone...but why not just buy an Apple Thunderbolt Display from Craigslist for $100-$150? It has the same resolution, a hub on the back, speakers with a sub-woofer, camera, microphone, etc.

 

[lostPod]

Anyone had any experience with Juicy Crumb? They apparently are working on a drop in board that will let you turn an older 2011 27 inch iMac into an external display, with future designs for other iMacs.

Turn Your Broken iMac Into A New Standalone Display!
Juicy Crumb - 2011 27" iMac Upgrade Logic Board

It's a Kickstarter so big red flag there.

I've always thought that creating drop-in boards for the various iMac versions with either non-functional or activation locked logic boards would be a great thing for a company like iFixit to get into. They could sell them on their website, and repair, refurb and recycle companies that had been previously scrapping the iMacs for parts could turn them instead into external displays and sell them much cheaper than the Studio Display for people who want the Apple aesthetic but don't want to pay the huge markup.

Wow that looks awesome -- I would love to back that -- however, I am never using kickstarter again after being burned sooooo many expensive times.

 

[Needleroozer]

Anyone had any experience with Juicy Crumb? They apparently are working on a drop in board that will let you turn an older 2011 27 inch iMac into an external display, with future designs for other iMacs.

Turn Your Broken iMac Into A New Standalone Display!
Juicy Crumb - 2011 27" iMac Upgrade Logic Board

It's a Kickstarter so big red flag there.

I've always thought that creating drop-in boards for the various iMac versions with either non-functional or activation locked logic boards would be a great thing for a company like iFixit to get into. They could sell them on their website, and repair, refurb and recycle companies that had been previously scrapping the iMacs for parts could turn them instead into external displays and sell them much cheaper than the Studio Display for people who want the Apple aesthetic but don't want to pay the huge markup.

It looks like they’re a new company and this is their first project, so your trepidation may be warranted.
The prices seem rather high for what are essentially eDP breakout boards, but that makes some sense since they appear to be assembling and soldering the boards by hand. Typically this is done in an automated fashion, but their choice to glom pre-fabricated microcontroller and power regulation boards (the green and red boards in their last “Rev 4” prototype) onto their board makes that a bit more difficult.

I think it looks like they’ve got a good working product, but the big question is if they’ll be able to scale the manufacturing and get their firmware done. At these prices, I agree with @VegetarianNachos that a used 27” Apple display would be much cheaper and lower-risk - unless you have a bunch of dead 2011 iMacs sitting around and want to help support this company’s takeoff roll.

One thing that would have been cool but that they aren’t doing, likely due to the cost of the necessary connectors, would be using the pre-existing Mini DisplayPort and USB cutouts in the iMac chassis rather than routing everything out the RAM access hatch.

 

[yashka]

Does anyone know if the driver boards (I have the R9A18) are compatible with the never revisions of the LM270QQ1 like (SD)(E1) or (SD)(F1)?

Also, do these revisions have fewer issues with pink edges/image retention?

 

[PaulD-UK]

D1 (iMac Pro) and E1 (iMac 2019) variants certainly work with the R1811 driver board, though my vendor installed a slightly different firmware version I think.

I've not seen reports of any problems with the screen quality with these later versions.

 

[joseph.l.jackson]

Thanks a lot !
I opened the iMac... everything went pretty fine.
But now, it seems I might have gotten the wrong cable as it doesn't feel like a match with the panel connector...
Can you guys have a look at the pictures?
Sounds like I missing something...

I also got some generic backlight power cables with my R9A18 V1 board instead of one suited to my model of panel (LM270QQ1 SD A2.) After a lot of squinting at photos on AliExpress, I was able to put one together on my own that works great. I removed the matching connector from the iMac logic board so I could attach it to the panel's cable. I trimmed off the useless ends of the supplied power cables and soldered the wires in what I hoped were the right places on the salvaged connector. Seems like I got it right because the screen lights up and is nice and bright.

The R9A18 V1 board has two matching backlight power connectors. The LCD connector is divided into three pairs of wires for the right side and three pairs for the left. I assumed the board connectors were intended to be left and right sides, so each connector powers half of the LCD. The odd thing is that all of the cable photos showed only LED1 getting power on the left and right. The LED2 and LED3 pins were all connected to ground. Not what I would have expected, so I'm glad I spent some time looking at the pictures. (You can also see it in the post from PaulD-UK just above where there are two red wires and 10 black.)

It looks something like this (I can post pictures if it would be useful to someone. The screen is taped in place at the moment, but I'll have it opened up again now that the adhesive strips have arrived.):

R9A18 board LCD
JP11 (In the corner) Backlight Connector
Gnd-------------------> Pins 10, 11, 12
Gnd-------------------> Pins 8, 9
Pwr------\_________> Pin 7 (both power lines tied together)
Pwr------/

JP14 (To the right of JP11)
Gnd-------------------> Pins 4, 5, 6
Gnd-------------------> Pins 2, 3
Pwr------\_________> Pin 1 (both power lines tied together)
Pwr------/

Looking at the picture of the LCD backllight connector from PaulD-UK above, what I'm calling Pin 1 would obviously be the red wire on the right side and Pin 7 is the other red wire near the middle.

Some previous posts have talked about the backlight being too dim. I wonder if that's because many of the cables included with the R8A19/R1811 boards only attach to one of the two backlight power connectors, so they're only getting half of the needed current? I saw lots of posts about using an additional DZ-LP0818 constant current power board, but maybe rewiring the supplied cable to use both connectors would be a simpler solution?

Ok, great to hear! Also the 10 bpc @ RGB is exactly what one would like to see.
I don't have a matching remote so I can't test it, sorry.
If you can, try contacting your seller if they can provide an even newer firmware.

I'd also like to get the R8A19 V1 firmware and installation tool from you. Mine came with V001, so it drops all the settings when I pull the power cord out. Very annoying. I'll PM you once I've posted enough to do that.

 

[wei803]

Have anyone seen Studio Display panel went on sale? I come across some aftermarket display that utilize such panel. Might just buy that if I can’t find such panel. Or they cost too much.