R1811 will be selling shortly.
iMac glass shattered upon removal.
Where should I list this item?
iMac glass shattered upon removal.
Where should I list this item?
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DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)
- Thread starter fiatlux
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Yep. Just saw that earlier today. Maybe we can get Luke to ask iFixit to help fund these boards and sell them on the site. I don't really have a need for the current 2011 27 inch iMac one they have, but if they ever make one for a 2017 then I have four 2017 27 inch iMacs ready for it (they have bad logic boards or are activation locked).
I confirmed with my vendor that the R9A18 also supports (SD)(E1). Needs the constant current backlight board, but I already have that. These panels also seem a bit cheaper than the earlier revisions.
Been following this thread for awhile. Really awesome stuff.
I just got a 2020 iMac - display model LM270QQ1 (SD)(F1). Not too many using 2020 iMac on here, if any (?).
What is the consensus right now on which is the best driver board?
Things I care about:
- Would be great to get 10 bit @ 5k 60hz but 8 bit also seems pretty good.
- Ability to adjust brightness using mac keys (using lunar or other 3rd-party app). Or use a remote if this isn't possible.
- Re-use the built-in speakers
Seems R1811 is the best board overall (also most expensive). But I think I might go with R9A18 instead with dual DP to get 10 bit. Does that sound right?
I'm still a bit confused if the latest version of R9A18 requires purchasing additional backlight board. And if so where to get it.
I just got a 2020 iMac - display model LM270QQ1 (SD)(F1). Not too many using 2020 iMac on here, if any (?).
What is the consensus right now on which is the best driver board?
Things I care about:
- Safety - I don't really trust some random power supply to properly charge my MBP 14". There was a single post in this thread saying USB C ports got destroyed. So having a single usb C connection for everything isn't important.
- Noise - I don't really want to deal with the hassle of swapping out a new fan. I just want a really quite house.
- Brightness - Really the main driver for me other than 5k resolution. I want to be able to get max brightness.
- Hassle / Reliability - I would like to do as little as possible to make this work. Ideally set it up once and done.
- Would be great to get 10 bit @ 5k 60hz but 8 bit also seems pretty good.
- Ability to adjust brightness using mac keys (using lunar or other 3rd-party app). Or use a remote if this isn't possible.
- Re-use the built-in speakers
Seems R1811 is the best board overall (also most expensive). But I think I might go with R9A18 instead with dual DP to get 10 bit. Does that sound right?
I'm still a bit confused if the latest version of R9A18 requires purchasing additional backlight board. And if so where to get it.
Some comments on your post:
I guess used 2020 iMacs are still more expensive than older ones and in terms of the screen there is not much difference (2014 – first 5k, 2015 – first with P3 support). Also 2020 iMacs wern’t a good deal back them since they were not as upgradable as previous models.
1) Safety – I personally use a Thunderbolt dock inbetween the screen and the laptop. Makes it a bit more expensive but you might feel more safe. Alternatively you could go with an adapter that merges two DPs into a USB-C. That would be a middle link to feel more safe.
2) Noise – honestly, I’m totally fine with the default fan (I use R1811). I actually tried Noctua fan featured in this thread but to me it was more loud (not much but tiny bit).
3) Brightness – 5k panels of 2014 and 2015 don’t require another converter, every panel after 2015 including 2020 does require an additional board to reach the max brightness.
4) Hassle / Reliability – well this DIY project requires some hassle by definition, doesn’t it?
Other things you’ve mentioned:
- Since you do bother about the max brightness, I would suggest to bother about 10 bit as well (or don’t bother about both – your screen will get quite bright (really bright!) without an additional board). So and it you wish to go with 10 bit, then R1811 is your choice.
- Can’t say about controlling with the keys but there is a 3rd party app (listed somewhere in this thread) that allows to change brightness without going to the menu
- It is possible to reuse the built-in speakers but it requires some hassle that you wish to avoid. Basically you have four pins on each speaker (A1, B1, C1, D1 and A2, B2, C2, D2) and four pins on the board (W, X, Y, Z). And you have to manually make Y-shaped wires that will connect A1+A2 to W, B1+B2 to X and so on. The seller of R1811 offers custom speakers that already have Y-shaped wires, so all you‘ll need is to connect them to the board. But then you’ll have to remove the original speakers…
Overall it’s up to you what level of hassle/perfection you wish to have. There are lots of things you can skip: making the original power button working, making the power go via original cord, support additional cables/ports, put the board and power brick inside or outside of the case…
Good luck and hope you’ll succeed!
Oh and one thing to mention that was quite a bummer for me. If you calibrate your display and adjust RGB values – once you turn board’s power off – all those settings get reset. That’s annoying and AFAIK there is no hardware fix for that yet.
Hoping the guru's out there can help. I have all the piece, an R1811 V4 board, A1419 case, 2015 5K mac display, but I am getting strange behavior. I have connected all the cables correctly but see a problem with the image on the ight hand side(attached). Additionally I cannot get 5K resolution on the USB-C connector.
I'm more concerned that I might have a bad R1811, bad cable or worse still a bad display connector (I've reseated 3 times all connections.). Anyone got advice?
Do I need to hook up display port or should single USB-C provide resolution.
I'm more concerned that I might have a bad R1811, bad cable or worse still a bad display connector (I've reseated 3 times all connections.). Anyone got advice?
Do I need to hook up display port or should single USB-C provide resolution.
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You might wanna try different combinations to detect the source of the problem.
Try connecting an HDMI (or Display Port) cable instead of the USB-C. It can be anything on the other side of it: Mac, PC, a game console.
If the screen works fine, then it's something with your USB-C cable or USB-C port.
If the screen behaves the same way, then it's either the board or the screen cable (the blue-red one) or the iMac screen. The cheapest way to proceed would be to buy a new eDP cable to connect the screen with your board. If it helps, then it was a faulty cable. If it won't help, then it's either the board or the screen. If you have an option to connect this screen to an actual iMac, you could check if it's working properly there. Another option is to order another card or a screen...
Side note: I'm a bit surprised to see the screen cable to look like that. Usually it has the same black protecting cover on both ends (like on your second photo). Right now those blue and red wires look fragile and it's quite easy to bend or damage some of them. Could be the case for you: some cables were bent and a quarter of the screen went blank.
Yes Understood. I have reached out to the seller to see what their take is. If it is just a cable then easy fix, replace and I plan to hot glue in place to stop movement. I do have another full imac 2015 but a bit reluctant to take it apart to see if the board/cable is ok. I can if I have to (done before to upgrade hard drive. Thanks for help so far and I'll keep everyone up to date.
Well it was not the board, it was a faulty screen. I ended up taking apart my iMAC 2015 and using that display and it all works perfectly. I reached out the the seller about the screen and he basically put his hands up and said tough luck!!! Another life lesson!!!
Anyway I've cleaned up the inside of the unit and the edges etc. of the old case. Hot glue has become my friend. Take a look (I've added multiple connections to avoid taking the screen off all the time). I am waiting for one more USB-c display port cable and I can close it up. I'm considering adding magnets to the screen and frame to allow for easy removal etc. and maintenance.
I am in the process of "trimming" the memory cover slot to allow for cleaner cable entry and will be 3d printing a cover for the ports that are unused at this point. I am happy the control is on the back of the display and the remote seems to work well from the front (I guess bouncing IR off the walls).
Single cable running 5K on USB-C
Anyway I've cleaned up the inside of the unit and the edges etc. of the old case. Hot glue has become my friend. Take a look (I've added multiple connections to avoid taking the screen off all the time). I am waiting for one more USB-c display port cable and I can close it up. I'm considering adding magnets to the screen and frame to allow for easy removal etc. and maintenance.
I am in the process of "trimming" the memory cover slot to allow for cleaner cable entry and will be 3d printing a cover for the ports that are unused at this point. I am happy the control is on the back of the display and the remote seems to work well from the front (I guess bouncing IR off the walls).
Single cable running 5K on USB-C
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Have any brave souls with the r18112 replaced the noisy fan with a large heatsink or quieter fan? I've got a couple of brushless fans on the way to test out. But I guess no fan would be best. Also is there a way to have the display sleep immediately when the Mac does? So, not check for other display source, just sleep immediately?
I replaced the default fan with a 40x10 Noctua and a little bit of superglue and wire cutters. While it looks like there's enough space for a 50mm fan, my calipers read 48mm ID for the heatsink. Regardless, it doesn't run hot either way and would likely run with just a decent passive heatsink. The heatsink itself is 60mmx50mm.
If you're looking to replace with another fan that screw mounts, the type of fan is called a 'Bury Mount'. If you're clever you could likely remove the glue holding the mount of the default fan to the motor and swap it onto the motor of a decent 40-45mm fan.
Next to the 12v fan power socket there is a white 4 way socket.
From top to bottom in this pic the pins are L+ L-
The CSC3110 chip is specced for 8Ω speakers, but will work with the iMac's 4Ω internal drivers - with a suitable tweeter protection capacitor or crossover. If you wire each iMac tweeter directly in parallel with its larger driver unit this will give 2Ω, which is too low for the CSC3110, which requires 3.2Ω minimum (according to the data sheet).
Power output is 10-15w into 8Ω at 10% THD, and about 5w at 1% THD.
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Thanks so much for the info. The brushless fan I tried was actually louder, so tried the fan unplugged. Obviously brilliant sound wise, but it does get a bit hot, which has me fretting. I plugged it back in in the end.
Cheers, that helps me a bit, but you left me in the dust once you got into the ohm ranges lol. Maybe it is step too far, I'll just rely on the Mac Studio speakers for general sounds or casting music to my Sonos. Very responsive and kind peeps around here!
Just FWIW I just wired the iMac speakers directly to the +/- connectors and _didn’t_ have any issues…
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Thanks for the advice, I'm new to wiring... So did you use a JST-HW 4 plug or something else? Is it smaller than HW?
Yes, this is what I ordered:
20 Sets Jst 2.0 Ph 4 Pin Connector Plug, Include 10 Sets Mini 4 Pin Jst Ph2.0 Connector Plug Female with 150mm Cable Wire & 10 Piece Male Micro Jst Ph2.0mm 4Pin Connector Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RHGT3W3?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_DA8FGDP37HG6HJFRRPXK
I have a few extra so if you want to PM me your address I can mail you some.
Hi all, just done the mod with the U49, and it is mostly up and running well! but, when on a full white background, I see a purple tinge around all the edges which wasn't there before the mod. Anyone have any ideas what this is, and whether I can do anything about it? Thanks!
I finally got my new R9A18 driver board (since my old one broke after a power outage - display was fine) which works great. I just have one issue. If I plug in headphones into my MacBook Air while having it connected to power (via the official Apple Power cable) and 2x DisplayPort (using a thunderbolt - 2x display port adapter) I get an electrical buzz sound (most likely interference) on my headphones.
Anyone had that issue aswell or any idea how I could fix it?
Anyone had that issue aswell or any idea how I could fix it?
This sounds like it might be a "ground loop" problem. I'd try an external USB audio card and see if that helps at all.
What is a ground loop?
Learn about ground loops, a common electrical issue caused by multiple grounding points in a system that can lead to unwanted noise, interference, and equipment damage. Explore their causes, effects, and solutions to prevent and mitigate ground loop problems in electrical and audio systems.
Unfortunately that does not work for me - tried different plugs aswell. It seems like the buzzing is also happening when I am not connected to power but only plugged in into the monitor via thunderbolt -> 2 display ports. Could this be any issue with the installation of the board inside the display? The parts of the outer casing where the board is located has been layered via duct tape by me.
I also seem to sometimes get kernel panics once I plug in my display to the Mac at the moment where it should initialize the display. 1/3 tries connecting the display results in that.
I also seem to sometimes get kernel panics once I plug in my display to the Mac at the moment where it should initialize the display. 1/3 tries connecting the display results in that.
Did anyone ordered one yet?
It seems that they really sell one with HDMI 2.1 too, branded as a T19 model.
Can someone confirm that 10bit colors and DDC is really supported on these boards? Would be great fanless choice compared to R1811.