DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

[PaulD-UK]

I think the R1811 firmware may be different for different generations of iMac panels.
All have the same backlight cabling.

Your Chinese vendor may be able to supply firmware upgrades.
StoneTaskin offered this sort of after-purchase support - before his account was terminated.
(Easily found on google).

 

[LeMelleKH2]

Thank you to everyone for the help! My rig is finally complete! This was my first DIY project, so I was bit nervous but still excited to dive in. Using Gold's setup as inspiration, I ended up installing an 8-speaker system as well, with a temperature control system. Just wanted to give some of my thoughts and add some other tips and perspective.

View attachment 2143506

I just wanted to post an update to save anyone else from the de-moralizing headache that I had to endure hahahaha. If you place the board where I did (honestly no matter what) I would put an extra layer on the bottom of the board. A tiny piece of metal poked through and shorted the board. I also relined the chassis with electrical tape for another layer of security. Lesson learned!!!!!

 

[uller6]

I just wanted to post an update to save anyone else from the de-moralizing headache that I had to endure hahahaha. If you place the board where I did (honestly no matter what) I would put an extra layer on the bottom of the board. A tiny piece of metal poked through and shorted the board. I also relined the chassis with electrical tape for another layer of security. Lesson learned!!!!!

Good advice. I taped a Mylar bag to the back of my chassis as an insulator for just this reason.

 

[wolfcry911]

Hello,
I've read this entire thread and I'm excited to start this project. I've purchased a late 2015 27" iMac to use (will sell the logic board and vesa mount if anyone's interested). However, I'm not sure which converter board to purchase. My case use is to drive the DIY monitor with another 2015 27" iMac (which I'm pretty sure needs TB2 to dual DP to do, or will 2 TB2 to DP cables work?), a silicon MBP (not in possession yet), and/or a windows laptop (not sure the model - it's my wife's work computer).

Am I correct that I'll need to change the firmware of either board (I believe there are more, but only looking at the R9A18 or R1811 - unless there's something better) to use the dual DP for the 2015 iMac to use? Will it still be possible to use a single DP 1.4 with a newer MBP (or will I need to change firmware again)?

 

[i486dx2-66]

A tiny piece of metal poked through and shorted the board.

Did it kill your board, or just temporarily cause it to not function?

If your board was dead, it would be interesting to have someone remove the heatsink and take a photo of the chip markings.

 

[eric89074]

Hello,
I've read this entire thread and I'm excited to start this project. I've purchased a late 2015 27" iMac to use (will sell the logic board and vesa mount if anyone's interested). However, I'm not sure which converter board to purchase. My case use is to drive the DIY monitor with another 2015 27" iMac (which I'm pretty sure needs TB2 to dual DP to do, or will 2 TB2 to DP cables work?), a silicon MBP (not in possession yet), and/or a windows laptop (not sure the model - it's my wife's work computer).

Am I correct that I'll need to change the firmware of either board (I believe there are more, but only looking at the R9A18 or R1811 - unless there's something better) to use the dual DP for the 2015 iMac to use? Will it still be possible to use a single DP 1.4 with a newer MBP (or will I need to change firmware again)?

According to everymac you need to use two cables going to the board. If that's the case the R9A18 should work using both DP 1.2 ports.

 

[davidg5678]

Hello,
I've read this entire thread and I'm excited to start this project. I've purchased a late 2015 27" iMac to use (will sell the logic board and vesa mount if anyone's interested). However, I'm not sure which converter board to purchase. My case use is to drive the DIY monitor with another 2015 27" iMac (which I'm pretty sure needs TB2 to dual DP to do, or will 2 TB2 to DP cables work?), a silicon MBP (not in possession yet), and/or a windows laptop (not sure the model - it's my wife's work computer).

Am I correct that I'll need to change the firmware of either board (I believe there are more, but only looking at the R9A18 or R1811 - unless there's something better) to use the dual DP for the 2015 iMac to use? Will it still be possible to use a single DP 1.4 with a newer MBP (or will I need to change firmware again)?

A few months ago, I tried driving my R1811 5K display with another late 2014 5K iMac. I attached two mini-DisplayPort to DisplayPort cables between my iMac and the driver board, but this alone wasn't enough to get a full 5K signal. I believe that this is because the default firmware on the R1811 board I purchased wasn't configured for this dual DisplayPort wiring scheme.

I read several earlier posts on this thread where people contacted the seller of their driver board and received instructions for a firmware update that allowed them to do this successfully. You might need to revert the firmware back to the original if you want to use a single DisplayPort cable again in the future.

If you switch to using an Apple Silicon MacBook Pro, I think you'll probably want to use a USB-C cable rather than DP1.4, as this will charge your laptop while simultaneously transmitting video. I don't think that 5K over USB-C will stop working, as I didn't find anything to indicate this in my research. Maybe someone else here has personal experience and can confirm?

 

[wolfcry911]

Thank you for the replies. I would like to use a USB-C cable with silicon MBP, but is there a way to use a USB-C cable and NOT charge the laptop? I've read (in this thread?) of damaged hardware (multiple computers) using these converters to charge laptops.

 

[i486dx2-66]

but is there a way to use a USB-C cable and NOT charge the laptop?

Perhaps this could be done by using a USB-C to HDMI cable? (HDMI plugging into the display adapter board?)

 

[yaosiang]

Thank you for the replies. I would like to use a USB-C cable with silicon MBP, but is there a way to use a USB-C cable and NOT charge the laptop? I've read (in this thread?) of damaged hardware (multiple computers) using these converters to charge laptops.

Use a USB-C to DisplayPort cable instead.

Perhaps this could be done by using a USB-C to HDMI cable? (HDMI plugging into the display adapter board?)

The HDMI input on the driver board does not support 5K.

 

[ascii27]

Well I've finally completed my build based on the R1811 LCD driver board. I followed the guidance in this thread and others but also put my own spin on it. I was concerned about installing every component in the iMac case including the driver board power supply. I thought heat build-up could be an issue with the power supply in the case. I have had similar power supplies fail in the past so I thought it's possible it may need to be replaced in a year or so. Lastly I wanted access to the driver board to easily plug in devices and also potentially upgrade the driver board in the future. I have no desire to open up the iMac again once it is sealed so mounting these externally was key.

The length of the LCD driver board cable was a determining factor. Based on its length, I realized I could mount the board externally, but not too far away. I came up with a plan to house the board in a small break-out box and attach it to the iMac stand. I found a mini-ATX case that matches the industrial metal look of the iMac and like how it turned out.

I planned to use the 5K monitor with my new Mac mini so a webcam was necessary. I hate the look of a webcam propped up on top of the monitor, so ideally I wanted to install a camera in the case similar to the iMac. I knew that the FaceTime camera from iMacs prior to 2012 as well as the Thunderbolt Display could be converted to USB; however, I found that space at the top of the thin iMac case was very challenging. This was the hardest part of the build for me. Ultimately I was able to disassemble a FaceTime camera board from a Thunderbolt Display to make it as small as possible, hook up a usb cable to it, and get it to fit (extremely snugly) within the iMac case. Overall I am very happy with the result.

During my research I read about people replacing the LCD screens on iMacs, only to have them come apart and crash to the floor at some point. To address this, I installed a series of zip-ties with adhesive mounts to catch the LCD as emergency straps just in case it separated from the iMac case.

I also replaced the LCD driver board fan with the Noctua fan recommended by @Borzab to make it an almost silent device. I didn't like the PCB board supplied with the R1811, so I installed a new LED at the top of the case and a new IR receiver on the bottom of the case to receive signals from the included remote control.

While I had the opportunity, I also went ahead and replaced the original plastic hinge washers with metal ones I found eBay to preemptively address the infamous "broken hinge" problem plaguing some iMacs.

Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences in this thread—it has been a really fun and useful project!

Below are some pics of my build...

Hi. I know this was a couple of years ago, but does the microphone for the isight camera work? Is that a separate thing? Forgive the noob question and thanks

 

[ascii27]

The r1811 (annoyingly) takes 24v in while the highest the iMac PSU puts out is I think 12v, but the r1811 comes with it’s own psu that’s smaller and less exposed than the iMac PSU so it’s easier to just use that anyway. There are videos on how to use the factory power button on the iMac itself and I’ve seen people figure out how to use the factory power cord location but I also have a 2015 and can’t figure out how to get behind the shielded area where to plug goes to splice in a plug for the r1811.

Do you have any link to these videos showing how to user the factory power button on the iMac itself? Tried to search for it and can only find vids about repairing the button. Thanks

 

[ascii27]

Well it was not the board, it was a faulty screen. I ended up taking apart my iMAC 2015 and using that display and it all works perfectly. I reached out the the seller about the screen and he basically put his hands up and said tough luck!!! Another life lesson!!!

Anyway I've cleaned up the inside of the unit and the edges etc. of the old case. Hot glue has become my friend. Take a look (I've added multiple connections to avoid taking the screen off all the time). I am waiting for one more USB-c display port cable and I can close it up. I'm considering adding magnets to the screen and frame to allow for easy removal etc. and maintenance.

I am in the process of "trimming" the memory cover slot to allow for cleaner cable entry and will be 3d printing a cover for the ports that are unused at this point. I am happy the control is on the back of the display and the remote seems to work well from the front (I guess bouncing IR off the walls).

Single cable running 5K on USB-C

That looks awesome. Why did you put a piece of plexiglass over half of the board?

 

[KarpovUSA]

This might be useful for testing: https://imagescience.com.au/knowledge/10-bit-output-support

My display also shows up as G1-27.

My understanding is if your Mac's GPU supports DP1.4, you are using a high quality DP1.4 cable, and you have the R1811 board, chances are likely that you are looking at 10-bit color.

Hi,
This site really helped me a lot. I have R1811 V4 running 5k on imac 2020 27 display (F1) as G1-27. I have but only 1 problem: after computer enters sleep and the R1811 goes into power saving state, as computer wakes up, the board and fan powers up but the display is not lighting up. The computer (many different ones) is still recognizing the screen and is managing it but no image no backlight (cooling fan on the board running). The original power button soldered to the button strip will not do anything, nothing at all. Once I unplug the monitor, everything is back to normal (actually installed AC switch at the cord plug). Button works good, 5k all day, remote is working super, multiple inputs work great. until it goes into power saving state. I did not find the answer from chinese seller, he will not provide drivers or exchange claiming all R1811s are like this. Any suggestions David, anyone?
Now in the middle of installing 9A18 V1 onto a second imac 2020 F1 screen and chassis, hoping it will not be the same. I think I can get 5K via 1 HDMI cable on this one.
Andrey

 

[•MacMike•]

Hi,
This site really helped me a lot. I have R1811 V4 running 5k on imac 2020 27 display (F1) as G1-27. I have but only 1 problem: after computer enters sleep and the R1811 goes into power saving state, as computer wakes up, the board and fan powers up but the display is not lighting up. The computer (many different ones) is still recognizing the screen and is managing it but no image no backlight (cooling fan on the board running). The original power button soldered to the button strip will not do anything, nothing at all. Once I unplug the monitor, everything is back to normal (actually installed AC switch at the cord plug). Button works good, 5k all day, remote is working super, multiple inputs work great. until it goes into power saving state. I did not find the answer from chinese seller, he will not provide drivers or exchange claiming all R1811s are like this. Any suggestions David, anyone?
Now in the middle of installing 9A18 V1 onto a second imac 2020 F1 screen and chassis, hoping it will not be the same. I think I can get 5K via 1 HDMI cable on this one.
Andrey

Mine did that too, but only on HDMI.
Bought a DisplayPort 1.4 cable and doesn't do it anymore. I do have a MacPro 5,1 with a RX580. So who knows if that is the reason why it did that on HDMI.

 

[webhdx]

I thought I'd share my setup. Some key features of my 2015 iMac 5K conversion:

• Connected stock speakers to the internal amplifier on R1811.
• Wired stock fan through to a PWM controller with a thermistor attached to the PSU which is the hottest component in the case. This is a blower style fan that sucks fresh air and blows it through 3D printed duct. This makes the display not silent but it doesn't really bother me because it's still very quiet. The fan ramps up when a MacBook is charged through USB-C.
• RAM door cover replaced by a 3D printed piece which exposes 2x HDMI and 1x USB-C. I used extension cables to route I/O to the rear. It also houses buttons and IR receiver.
• R1811 fan replaced by a Noctua 40x10. I highly recommend it because the stock fan is quite loud. I had to use low noise adapter to eliminate high pitch noise.
• Generic USB webcam installed. I also rewired internal microphone to the location used by stock microphones. The microphone picks up fan noise but most voice apps have noise suppression feature which eliminates the problem completely.
• Most of the things are mounted using 3D printed parts.

It took a few weeks to finish the project. I've spent a lot of time on designing 3D printed parts and by the end of it I was really bored and cut a few corners here and there. The parts are not perfect and I'm not releasing anything just yet. Ideally I'd reprint rear piece because it looks really bad but I don't really care at this point. I'll make another display conversion for my brother soon and I'll probably optimize the parts.

 

[•MacMike•]

Nice! Did you open the power supply to dissipate heat better?

 

[webhdx]

Yes. The power supply is very hot during use and I'd feel very uncomfortable running it enclosed in the plastic shell. Thanks to the stock fan, the air inside iMac case is constantly exchanged with fresh air and it cools down the PSU and other components. Also there isn't too much space inside and getting rid of the part of plastic case made the PSU thinner and easier to mount.

 

[PaulD-UK]

Nice.
How easy was it to fix the Noctua fan (4 arm) in place to the original 3 arm mounting screws?
What did you power from the R1811's 12v pins (1 & 3) next to the red external connecter for the backlight board?
It looks like it goes to the iMac fan controller board.? Does that work without affecting the R1811 in any way?
Any comment on the quality/volume of the audio from the R1811. Your speakers look like they're wired in series?

 

[webhdx]

Actually I glued it. I use 12V output to power PWM controller for iMac fan. I haven't noticed any issues powering it this way, even though the fan running at 100% speed draws considerable amount of current. Fortunately it only ramps up when you connect a laptop to charge it via USB-C. I use Mac Studio with the display so the display runs cool and quiet.

 

[sprockett]

Seeking urgent help here..

Can someone send me the 2 files needed to update R1811 driver board firmware so it can take DUAL DP input to output to 5k?

I tried asking my seller, but they have no idea what I'm talking about.

Appreicate anyone here who can help me!!


Thanks!!

 

[i486dx2-66]

I thought I'd share my setup.

Looks great.

One of my biggest dilemmas for mine is where to put the power adapter. It seems to simultaneously be the part most likely to generate heat, and most likely to fail (necessitating cutting the display open again to replace)... but integrating it and reusing the original power cord is part of what completes the package look...

 

[PaulD-UK]

Quote: "...and most likely to fail"
I'm finishing a R1811 build, and I had the same thoughts. I didn't get a PSU from China with my board, as I wasn't going to trust one.
I've found a miniature 24v 5.4 amp medical grade PSU with 400,000hr MTBF rating which I'm designing around.
This is shallow enough (34.5mm) to fit anywhere in the central area of the case.
It needs cooling so I've fitted ducting to use an iMac 21" fan - fitted back to front where the normal 27" fan goes, and I've mounted the PSU immediately below.

Hopefully I won't have to open the case in the future...

 

[citivolus]

Hi. I know this was a couple of years ago, but does the microphone for the isight camera work? Is that a separate thing? Forgive the noob question and thanks

No because only the older iSight camera board which didn’t include the microphone could be “converted” to USB (as opposed to the newer Pcie board used with later iMacs).

 

[citivolus]

Btw if anyone is interested, I will sell my display built following the instructions of this thread since I’ve moved on to the Apple Pro Display XDR.