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DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

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The first post of this thread is a WikiPost and can be edited by anyone with the appropiate permissions. Your edits will be public.
Hi all, I have an empty 2015 case/panel that is available for sale in Reading, UK. The only thing it needs is a new controller board (I broke my current one and can't be bothered to buy another). It has an internal PSU, speakers are wired, USB-C socket on the back, new adhesive strips. The case/screen is in perfect physical condition. As a 2015 panel it does have a little pinking around the edges. Happy to meet with potential buyers around Reading/Staines/M4 corridor. I'd like to cover the cost of my (broken) controller board, so the price is £200.

(You are welcome to the old board too, if you are a dab hand with a very fine soldering iron you could probably fix it)
 
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kevinherring said:
Hi all, I have an empty 2015 case/panel that is available for sale in Reading, UK. The only thing it needs is a new controller board (I broke my current one and can't be bothered to buy another). It has an internal PSU, speakers are wired, USB-C socket on the back, new adhesive strips. The case/screen is in perfect physical condition. As a 2015 panel it does have a little pinking around the edges. Happy to meet with potential buyers around Reading/Staines/M4 corridor. I'd like to cover the cost of my (broken) controller board, so the price is £200.

(You are welcome to the old board too, if you are a dab hand with a very fine soldering iron you could probably fix it)
Click to expand...
I'm curious, was that the JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 from your 3rd imac? What happened to that board?
 
zalg said:
I'm curious, was that the JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 from your 3rd imac? What happened to that board?
Click to expand...
After a about 4 months of usage the adhesive on the screen failed one night. The panel detached and fell, bending the socket on the controller board. It sort of works, but not reliably. Fortunately there was no damage to the panel and it works fine still. I have changed to using a different supplier of adhesive!! It was from the second iMac, not the latest one.
 
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Oh no just went to find extra T18 boards and they are sold out now 🥺 anyone have one they don’t want? Are there other fanless 10-bit color boards at all?
 
Probably because cheaper options have appeared on AliExpress:
There are 2 cheaper boards:
JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 - 5K @ 8 bit, DP, HDMI 2.0 and USB-C. 12/24V.
JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 - 5K @ 10 bits, DP, HDMI 2.1 only. 12/24V.

And another mid-price board:
JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 - 5K @ 10 bits, DP, HDMI 2.0 or 2.1? and USB-C. 12/24V.
All these are fanless.

There's a full list of boards in an earlier post.
 
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PaulD-UK said:
Probably because cheaper options have appeared on AliExpress:
There are 2 cheaper boards:
JRY-W9CUHD -AA1 5K @ 8 bit, DP, HDMI 2.0 and USB-C. 12/24V.
JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 - 5K @ 10 bits, DP, HDMI 2.1 only. 12/24V.

And another mid-price board:
JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 - 5K @ 10 bits, DP, HDMI 2.0 or 2.1? and USB-C. 12/24V.
All these are fanless.

There's a full list of boards in an earlier post.
Click to expand...
Thanks Paul - this thread should be called the DIY 5K Monitor - Paul is a legend :)
 
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I have a U49 V11 board. I've had it a few years now But I have always find that the refresh rate around the outer edge was almost like ghosting. If I turned on the monitor or rebooted the system there would always be images of something that was there before the reboot.... Ghosting. It doesn't matter if its DP, HDMI or USB3. Windows, MacOS or Linx. Is there a firmware update for this model? I can;t seen to locate anything. Thanks
 

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DisraeliGears said:
Vale, después de unos días sigo teniendo algunos problemas de activación con el monitor. Parece que después de un sueño profundo a veces (pero no siempre) el monitor no quiere leer la señal de activación del Mac Mini. Si presiono el botón de entrada del monitor en la parte posterior, eso a menudo despertará el monitor y luego hará que se reconozca.
Click to expand...
Tengo un monitor Samsung 21:9 que siempre ha tenido problemas para despertarse. Antes era un esclavo del iMac de 27" conectado a través de DVI, ahora conectado a través de HDMI al Macmini tiene el mismo problema, y tengo que desconectarlo de la fuente de alimentación para que arranque. Sin embargo, el nuevo iMaCinemaDiaplayTunning 🤣 funciona perfectamente. Su interior se mantiene a 28° con el ventilador original al 20%.
 
@cabal2000 That looks like image retention, a screen panel problem which may disappear evenyually.
It was said at the time that leaving the monitor running a vigorous screen saver for up to 18 hours will clear the screen.

This is usually happens with the early 5K panels from 2014-5, with the screen model numbers (SD)A1-A3.
If your screen panel is an early version then your U49 isn't the problem.
 
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Xarl-li said:
The original fan with Paul's regulator at rest is at 20%, it is barely noticeable once you have closed the monitor. If you are going to use it, I have uploaded the two STLs to thingiverse to print.
www.thingiverse.com

iMac 27 5K Later 2015 A1419 To AppleCinema Display Convert by Xarli

iMac CinemaDisplay-Proyecto en activo, convertir el panel del iMac 27" en un monitor de 5k perfectamente operativo estilo Apple Cinema Display.Este proyecto esta basada en una placa concreta, la JRY-W9CUHD-AA1Leer atentamente, es...
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com
There are two STL and it fits in the original position including the screw fixing position.
Click to expand...
Thank you @Xarl-li for making the 3D print models for the fan exhaust shroud. I've been dreading creating the model since I'm not so good with accuracy and Fusion 360.

Fits perfectly in my 2017 iMac conversion.
 
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I'm planning to convert a 2017 5K iMac into a display for my new Mac Mini M4 and MacBook Air M1. I want to purchase the JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 board (charging over USB-C is not necessary). I'm considering placing the power supply outside the case, possibly installing it inside later on.

The fan outlets from @Xarl-li look great, and I also plan to use them. The only thing I still don’t understand is how to connect the original iMac fan. Do you connect this to the JRY-board or to the power supply?
 
@Ratjetoe You need to supply between 5 to12v to a 4 wire PWM controller to control the iMac fan.
This is the sort of thing.
noctua.at

NA-FC1

The NA-FC1 is a compact, highly flexible controller for 4-pin PWM fans that can both work on its own for manual speed reduction and also work in tandem with the automatic motherboard fan control. By adjusting the NA-FC1’s speed control dial, users can either manually set a PWM duty cycle from 0...
noctua.at noctua.at
The iMac fan is rated at 12v for full power, but will run at anything between 5v and 12v, at slower speeds.

The JRY--FA1 will run at 12v or 24v. I don't know if the higher voltage is better, it is on other boards like the Haijng T19.

I don't think the JRY--FA1 has a 12v output if you power it with 24v, so you would need a 24v to 12v converter board.
 
But provides the JRY-FA1 an output (12v or 24v depending on the used power supply) to connect the FC1 to or do I need to get the 12v from somewhere else?
 
If you're going to keep the power supply outside the case, you probably don't need an internal fan...I don't have one and my monitor has been fine since January - even through the warm Summer months.
 
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Ratjetoe said:
But provides the JRY-FA1 an output (12v or 24v depending on the used power supply) to connect the FC1 to or do I need to get the 12v from somewhere else?
Click to expand...
If you are not going to use USBC to charge a macbook, then you only need 12v 4A to 6Amp

The original imac fan works at 12v and you need connect FC1 for control, but if you need to autocontrol fan with termal sensor, there are others boards Fan control Pwm.


Honestly, the simplest thing is to use 12v at the input, + FC1 that Paul recommended, you just have to identify the 4 wires, in another post in this thread, Paul has left them identified very well.
 
Paul, I know we are a little far from the objective of this thread, but I see that you master the topic.

I have an old imac g4 Powermac 6.3 20" USB2.0

¿Do you know of any controller board to use with the panel 20"?

:)
 
Hi all - I've been reading this thread for a while and there's so much valuable information, so thank you to everyone. But I'm also confused!

I would like to buy a new Mac Mini M4 and repurpose my iMac 2014 27" 5K as an external monitor. I do quite a lot of photography/editing so the 10-bit colour would be important for me.

But I'm just not sure whether a R1811 board would allow me to achieve this over one cable. Some posts say that DP1.4 isn't sufficient to support 5K @ 60 with 10-bit over one cable. You need to use two ports, buy an expensive splitter and reflash the firmware. If this is the case, I'm better off saving the money and getting the older R9A18 board and getting 2 DP1.2 cables.

Other posts say that you can achieve 5K @ 60 with 10-bit over one Thunderbolt 3 to DP1.4 cable, which would be great.

I'm not sure if I'm missing something obvious. Would someone mind clarifying?

Thanks so much in advance!
 
Hi all - I've been reading this thread for a while and there's so much valuable information, so thank you to everyone. But I'm also confused!

I would like to buy a new Mac Mini M4 and repurpose my iMac 2014 27" 5K as an external monitor. I do quite a lot of photography/editing so the 10-bit colour would be important for me.

But I'm just not sure whether a R1811 board would allow me to achieve this over one cable. Some posts say that DP1.4 isn't sufficient to support 5K @ 60 with 10-bit over one cable. You need to use two ports, buy an expensive splitter and reflash the firmware. If this is the case, I'm better off saving the money and getting the older R9A18 board and getting 2 DP1.2 cables.

Other posts say that you can achieve 5K @ 60 with 10-bit over one Thunderbolt 3 to DP1.4 cable, which would be great.

I'm not sure if I'm missing something obvious. Would someone mind clarifying?

Thanks so much in advance!
 
1) HBR2 x4 can do 5K46 8bpc (custom timing).
2) HBR2 x4 can do 5K37 10bpc (custom timing).
3) HBR3 x4 can do 5K60 8bpc.
4) HBR3 x4 can do 5K55 10bpc (custom timing).
5) HBR2 x4 x2 can do 5K60 10bpc (dual tile display with one HBR2 x4 connection for each half of the display).
6) HBR2 x4 with DSC at 12bpp can do 5K60 10bpc.

I don't know which boards support which types of connections.
 
KayPee said:
I would like to buy a new Mac Mini M4 and repurpose my iMac 2014 27" 5K as an external monitor. I do quite a lot of photography/editing so the 10-bit colour would be important for me.
Click to expand...
Welcome to the forum KayPee.

Your iMac display panel is not 10-bit, unfortunately. The late 2015 and later are 10-bit panels.
PaulD-UK can correct me, if I am mistaken.
 
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