Took three AT&T stores, but on the third I got an eSIM. Positioned myself as suggested—chat said I could get the eSIM here, here’s what it looks like.
In all cases I could tell none of the associates knew anything about it. First two stores kind of blew me off, last one the guy went in back to look saying he wasn’t sure if they had anything like that, but he came back with the eSIM.
He had no idea how to process, so walked him through scanning ICCID into their system and gave him the IMEI for my non-physical SIM slot. Once he processed, I could see the SIM in my old (secondary) phone was dead, scanned the eSIM into the new (primary) phone, XS Max, and it worked flawlessly. I was on both LTE on my business line (on the physical SIM) as well as on the ATT WiFi in the store at the time.
For reference, the AT&T store I finally had luck at was the one in Stevenson Ranch, CA—the Valencia and Santa Clarita stores were the ones that didn’t have any eSIMs.