No.@PwmMen do you also use a screen protector ?
Sounds like the 13 is the way to go if you absolutely have the upgrade from a XR/11/SE Etc. Still will have to see what numbers notebookcheck ends up having with the 15 series to compare though.
I remember we all had issues back then with iPhone 13. Suddenly it became tolerableSounds like the 13 is the way to go if you absolutely have the upgrade from a XR/11/SE Etc. Still will have to see what numbers notebookcheck ends up having with the 15 series to compare though.
I thought it was the 12 pro series that was unbearableI remember we all had issues back then with iPhone 13. Suddenly it became tolerable
I remember only 13 mini was kinda bearable.
My bad haven't been on this forum in awhile, was hoping there would be some solution by now and that sucks that the regular 13 wasn't bearable eitherI remember we all had issues back then with iPhone 13. Suddenly it became tolerable
I remember only 13 mini was kinda bearable.
That's not really a test.....I don’t understand why the regular 15 should be better than the pro model. If I see this test the PWM is very noticeable. Can anyone explain please?
Maybe it's a stupid question. I saw the numbers but on the regular model the PWM/ flicker is very noticeable if you do 240fp slowmotion video. On the 15 pro not. So what's the relationship with the numbers with the reddit guy or the pwm guy. So I didn't get it. I really want to try the pro model because I didn't notice any flickering. But if I read the pwm guy and reddit guy I want to buy the regular model 🤷That's not really a test.....
Check out the Reddit guy, he is posting numbers.
Hope it won't take 5 years, but even so it'll be a light at the end of our tunnel.iPhone 15/iPhone 15 Plus might be the better options for sensitive users, as the modulation is apparently much lower: 2.67%* was found at 100% brightness.
Apple to Mass Produce Its Own MicroLED Displays for iPhones
Apple will mass produce its own microLED displays in order to lessen its reliance on Samsung and increase its own control over supply, laying the...www.macrumors.com
This gives me some hope since I doubt Apple would invest over a billion dollars into the technology if they’re weren’t planning to simultaneously overcome the remaining OLED shortcomings.
The bad news is that it’s looking increasingly likely this won’t be solved until iPhone 20.
Hope it won't take 5 years, but even so it'll be a light at the end of our tunnel.
I wouldn’t put much stock in that. It incorrectly says AMOLED commonly uses analog current (reducing voltage to dim), which we are all aware is not true. With that said, I would still expect them to use PWM for for microLED… mainly because that’s what these electrical engineers are taught in college is most efficient.How to efficiently drive micro LED displays
“The amount of current flowing through an LED determines the gray level (or brightness) of the individual emitter. The gray level of each individual LED that composes a pixel contributes to the overall brightness of the micro LED display.
Panel-based designs used for AMOLED displays typically implement an analog driving technique: The analog voltage (or current) applied to the pixel results in a current through the OLED, determining the gray level. In this approach, a higher current level results in a higher light emission and thus a brighter pixel. But for inorganic micro LEDs, changing the current to vary the gray level also affects the wavelength of the emitted light, causing an undesirable color shift.
As a result, digital driving is preferred for a micro LED display. This approach uses pulse width modulation (PWM) to determine the amount of current flowing through the micro LED so a fixed current level is applied to every LED (without color shift). But the average time that the LED is on — or the duty cycle — can be varied to adjust the average light emission and thus the gray level of the pixel.”
Thanks for providing these results! Your takeaway aligns with the PWM_Sensitive guy’s. In summary, the non-Pro models have less flicker but still suck.Finally got some time to drop by a store for a short test with the Radex Lupin. They had the 15, 15 Pro, and 15 Pro Max on display; the 15 Plus was missing (this was an electronics store, not an Apple Store).
Here are the test results; all measurements were taken with auto brightness off; RWP measurements were taken at 100% brightness.
Model 100% 75% 50% 25% RWP 25% RWP 50% RWP 75% RWP 90% iPhone 15 5.2 6.5 10 12 5 5 5.2 7 iPhone 15 Pro 12.3 13.5 16.2 19 12.7 13.5 14.9 17.3
My previous measurements of the 14 range are here: iPhone 14 measurements
The 15 Pro Max was essentially the same as the 15 Pro.
Note: The brightness settings are a rough estimation (i.e. what brightness it is, since the slider doesn't show any percentage; so it is possible that there is a bit of +/- movement regarding what exact brightness the phone was at).
Note 2: Interestingly, just measuring a 14 that I have at home, here are its values (here, I use a shortcut to set the brightness directly, so the brightness setting can be assumed to be accurate):
Model 100% 75% 50% 25% RWP 25% RWP 50% RWP 75% RWP 90% iPhone 14 4 6.8 9.9 12 3.9 4.2 4.8 6.8
These are slightly different to the measurements I've taken in my previous link above, but I think that is probably explained by the brightness slider inaccuracy.
Note 3: RWP 95% on the iPhone 14 measures ~8.4.
Preliminary conclusion: It seems that the 14 and 15 are aligned, as well as the 14 Pro and the 15 Pro. Minor differences in values, I would suggest are explained by the difference between in store measurement with a brightness slider, and using a shortcut for the 14 that I have at home.
I think if one was to give a model a go, then the 15/15 Plus would be the ones, and run it at 100% brightness, with a RWP setting that isn't too bright. The Radex Lupin manual says that measurement for office monitors should not exceed 5%, and light flickering for visually focused tasks should not exceed 10%. Light flickering up to 20% for all other tasks is acceptable, according to the manual.
So, potentially 100% brightness, with an RWP between 75% and 90%, and use Night Shift/Colour Filters to adjust intensity/colours, may be the best bet to try, at least based on these measurements, and not accounting for people's different reactions.
@ a busy store with my Opple tool to follow up on my table above.
Model 100%
433 Lux75%
210 Lux50%
70 Lux25%
35 LuxRWP25% RWP50% RWP75% RWP90% iPhone 15 Pro Max 11.14% 13.54% 19.33% 63.79% 11.17% 12.01% 15.07% 19.26%
Update to pwm away table, with Opple Light Master G3 flicker tool ($50).
True tone and Night Shift off. RWP= reduced white point with brightness at 100%.
Measuring tool is placed exactly 2cm above Oled screen in dark room. Under 12% is considered No Risk.
Tool measured brightness in Lux too. Surpringly my 11 LCD was measured at 400 Lux at 100%, 433 Lux for 15PM.
In conclusion 15 PM is very similar to 14 PM, not better. Their frequencies are both 480 Hz.
Thanks for the invite and looking at the past comments, I am flattered!/u/the_top_g on Reddit is definitely someone we should befriend.
Here is a message from him in /r/PWM_Sensitive:
Some of his threads have been reposted here, but here is the full list:
Also:
- iPhone 15:
- iPhone 15 Plus:
- iPhone 15 Pro:
- iPhone 15 Pro Max:
- iPhone 13:
Very good reads.
Are you able to share the raw data of the iphone 15?@ a busy store with my Opple tool to follow up on my table above.
1. All 15 series run at a 480Hz frequency. iPhone 14 as well. iPhone 13 shows a 100 Hz frequency (bad).
2. In line with pwm away last tests, a quick test of the 15 and 15+ shows modulations about half of the 15P and 15PM, so the non-Pro should be better in theory, I don't have one at home.
My eyes seem quite ok with the 15PM for now, a full week will be necessary to be sure.
Yes I do agree but allow me to speak on why we have to do so.Its frustrating relying on measurements and numbers. We all seem to be different. Symptom wise and what peg us. For me the pros last year were such a no go that I’m not even gonna look at one this year. I’ve been successfully using a 14 since last March. My wife got a 15 regular size yesterday and I helped her set it up. It seems to be similar to my 14 but I haven’t really used it a lot. Wish there was some iron clan explanation why the regular series works better for some of us than the pros. Confusing.
Also the two dreaded words: screen lottery
As now I see it has posted frequently, you just have to try it for yourself 🙂
Thanks for killing my hope! lol But who knows what the exact tech will be when it comes out.How to efficiently drive micro LED displays
“The amount of current flowing through an LED determines the gray level (or brightness) of the individual emitter. The gray level of each individual LED that composes a pixel contributes to the overall brightness of the micro LED display.
Panel-based designs used for AMOLED displays typically implement an analog driving technique: The analog voltage (or current) applied to the pixel results in a current through the OLED, determining the gray level. In this approach, a higher current level results in a higher light emission and thus a brighter pixel. But for inorganic micro LEDs, changing the current to vary the gray level also affects the wavelength of the emitted light, causing an undesirable color shift.
As a result, digital driving is preferred for a micro LED display. This approach uses pulse width modulation (PWM) to determine the amount of current flowing through the micro LED so a fixed current level is applied to every LED (without color shift). But the average time that the LED is on — or the duty cycle — can be varied to adjust the average light emission and thus the gray level of the pixel.”