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Do you know how to connect the Studio Display to a 3080 ti? Do I need any converter or just a single USB-C to DP cable?
I hav several Macs and one desktop tower that I would like to connect to the Studio Display
A bidirectional DisplayPort to USB-C cable, such as this one, must be used. A "simple" USB-C to DisplayPort cable will not work.
This might limit you to 4K60 though since it's not been established yet whether the Studio Display will do 5K60 via DisplayPort 1.4 plus DSC. If it won't, you need a Thunderbolt 3 add-in card (such as the Gigabyte GC-TITAN RIDGE) that two DisplayPort outputs of your GPU must be connected to.
 
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A bidirectional DisplayPort to USB-C cable, such as this one, must be used. A "simple" USB-C to DisplayPort cable will not work.
This might limit you to 4K60 though since it's not been established yet whether the Studio Display will do 5K60 via DisplayPort 1.4 plus DSC. If it won't, you need a Thunderbolt 3 add-in card (such as the Gigabyte GC-TITAN RIDGE) that two DisplayPort outputs of your GPU must be connected to.
Thanks a lot! I have a Z590 motherboard, is this the same type of product that could work?

 
A01F0F1E-E799-48A2-8FCE-A3B4E83D253C.jpeg

I'd rather try a straight HDMI 2.0 to USB-C adapter like this one. The fewer adapters/converters, the better. Do you have a HDMI monitor to test if the laptop is providing video output via HDMI?

Going back to the straight USB-C connection for now:

1. Are you using the same USB-C cable that works in conjunction with your MacBook Pro?

2. Is the monitor being detected in Windows' display properties at all? If so, is Windows set to expand the desktop to the monitor?

3. Have you tried playing with the Intel graphics driver's settings panel to see if the monitor needs to be enabled manually (shouldn't be necessary but you never know...)?

4. Do you have another DisplayPort or USB-C monitor to test if the laptop is providing video output via USB-C in the first place? It is not impossible that this has been disabled, either through an UEFI firmware setting or other setting, by your employer.
Hey thanks for the reply! I do have a dell monitor (from work) that I use, but would much prefer the LG Ultrafine. I normally use the dell monitor in conjunction with a docking station (also provided by work) that uses dp between the monitor and the ds and then usb-c to the laptop. Just tried HDMl straight from the monitor to the laptop and it works great! I’ve tried this straight HDMI to usb-c, but it didn’t work. Maybe the one you suggested is more suitable?? To answer your questions:

1. Yes, I use the same USB-C cable I use with my MacBook Pro.

2. Yes/ No, Windows does not detect the monitor. But….

3. See attached picture. After connecting via USB-c and going to Intel Graphics settings, the monitor shows up and everything looks like it should be running, but still no image.
A01F0F1E-E799-48A2-8FCE-A3B4E83D253C.jpeg


4. USB-c works with Dell monitor.
 
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I’ve tried this straight HDMI to usb-c, but it didn’t work.
That's a USB-C to HDMI adapter. You need the opposite: a HDMI to USB-C adapter. These are not bidirectional. :)

See attached picture.
It only shows 640×480 and 3840×2160 as supported modes. That's not right. There should™ be several modes up to the native 4096×2304 at 60 Hz.
Try defining a custom timing (might also be called custom resolution or mode) in the Intel graphics driver's settings. Use the "CVT-RBv2" timing formula, and enter 4096 pixels (horizontal) by 2304 lines (vertical) at 60 Hz refresh rate. Try activating this mode.
If CVT-RBv2 is not available, use the "CVT-RB" timing formula instead and reduce the refresh rate to, say, 55 Hz to ensure the pixel clock is lower than about 600 MHz (this limit is imposed by the monitor).
 
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Has anyone successfully connected a game console at 4K@60Hz to a 27MD5KL? Looking in this thread, I've seen mentions of HDMI-to-USB-C adapters that should work, but found no actual confirmation that anyone did it successfully.

(I assume that HDCP might be a problem?)
 
That's a USB-C to HDMI adapter. You need the opposite: a HDMI to USB-C adapter. These are not bidirectional. :)


It only shows 640×480 and 3840×2160 as supported modes. That's not right. There should™ be several modes up to the native 4096×2304 at 60 Hz.
Try defining a custom timing (might also be called custom resolution or mode) in the Intel graphics driver's settings. Use the "CVT-RBv2" timing formula, and enter 4096 pixels (horizontal) by 2304 lines (vertical) at 60 Hz refresh rate. Try activating this mode.
If CVT-RBv2 is not available, use the "CVT-RB" timing formula instead and reduce the refresh rate to, say, 55 Hz to ensure the pixel clock is lower than about 600 MHz (this limit is imposed by the monitor).
It was the refresh rate! It had been set to 30p and just needed to be bumped to 60! Wouldn’t have found those settings without your suggestion. Thank you so much :)
 
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YES! It is because the EDID!

I tried with
It has an EDID associate with it.


I use it with Wacom Link Plus
Or
StarTech.com 3.3ft (1m) USB C to DisplayPort 1.2 Cable 4K 60Hz - Bidirectional
Success

It finally works with 4K@60Hz, No Audio, No HDR.

Solution 1:
PS5
→ gofanco Prophecy HDMI 2.0 to DisplayPort 1.2 Converter (Red Light: 4K@60Hz EDID)
→ StarTech USB-C to DisplayPort 1.2 4K 60Hz - Bidirectional
→ Apple Studio Display


Solution 2:
PS5
→ gofanco Prophecy HDMI 2.0 to DisplayPort 1.2 Converter (Red Light: 4K@60Hz EDID)
→ Wacom Link Plus
→ Apple Studio Display
Finally I can use PS5 (HDMI 2.1) 4K@60Hz with Apple Studio Display (USB-C DP)!
 

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@joevt @Amethyst1
Hi all,

Share the results because all cables have arrived. The CAC-1334 cable did not function normally.
But the USB-C cable enclosed with LG monitor and SIIG combination worked like a charm.
(Many thanks to all of you.)

However, the default resolution was so low that I corrected the resolution through EDID manipulation with the following script(https://github.com/xzhih/one-key-hidpi). But my eyes hurt so much.

Is there any way to use it without hurting my eyes?

View attachment 1968548
View attachment 1968549

Which KVM and what all do you switch between and how? Would like to hear experience.
 
Which KVM and what all do you switch between and how? Would like to hear experience.

Please refer to the link below.
#482

In summary, Setup is as follows.

- Two Macbook Pros.
- KVM: TESMart USB-C KVM Switch 3 in 1 Out, for 3 Computers and 1 Monitors, 4k@60 Hz, Supply Power to The Laptop Connected to Port 1, Type-C KVM
- SIIG HDMI to USB-C Port 4K 60Hz Converter Adapter

Macbook Pros → (USB-C Cable) → KVM → SIIG HDMI to USB-C Adapter → (USB-C Cable) → LG UltraFine 5K(27MD5KL)

Thanks to @joevt, it was perfectly constructed, but in this setup, my eyes hurt and I'm looking for another way.
 
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Updated: Recommended Solution 3 & Solution 4

Solution 1 (Not Recommend):
PS5
gofanco Prophecy HDMI 2.0 to DisplayPort 1.2 Converter (Red Light: 4K@60Hz EDID)
Wacom Link Plus
→ Apple Studio Display
4K@60Hz, No Audio, No HDR.

Solution 2 (Not Recommend):
PS5
gofanco Prophecy HDMI 2.0 to DisplayPort 1.2 Converter (Red Light: 4K@60Hz EDID)
StarTech.com 3.3ft (1m) USB C to DisplayPort 1.2 Cable 4K 60Hz - Bidirectional
→ Apple Studio Display
4K@60Hz, No Audio, No HDR.

Solution 3 (Recommend For Switch):
PS5/Switch
Club3D CAC-1334
→ Apple Studio Display
1080p@60Hz, No Audio, No HDR.
720p@60Hz, No Audio, HDR.

Solution 4 (Recommend For PS5):
PS5 (Required Settings: HDR Off)
gofanco Prophecy 4K EDID Emulator - 17 EDID Modes (5-On: 4K@60Hz 4:2:0 8/10/12Bit 3D HDR video & 2ch audio)
Club3D CAC-1334
→ Apple Studio Display
4K@60Hz, No Audio, No HDR.

I also found a USB-C KVM to switch between MacBook Pro 14" and PS5:
→ USB-C 1 (Signal from PS5, Club3D CAC-1334) + USB-C 2 (Signal from MacBook Pro 14")
CableDeconn USB-C Type-C 8K Updated Switch USB 3.1 C Gen 2 Cable for Video Bi-Direction
→ Apple Studio Display
It could power up MacBook Pro 14" if it switch to the MacBook Pro

Final Test Result. Link PS5/Switch and other HDMI video devices to Apple Studio Display
 
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Googling for "Belkin Charge and Sync Cable" in quotes gives the following as the first reply:
https://www.belkin.com/us/support-article?articleNum=316883
Googling for "Belkin Charge and Sync Cable" site:macrumors.com gives results from MacRumors.com

It combines DisplayPort output (up to HBR2 link rate, maybe HBR3 since it mentions 8K?) and USB 2.0 into a USB-C cable that can be connected to a USB-C display.

Let us know how the add-in card works out.
The card works perfectly for my PC. I get 5k resolution on the LG. The camera and speakers work too.
E6C00A8C-0E19-4D2F-84C2-1720EE7865BE.jpeg623C0D09-F3AE-45EB-86EB-5F8D90FA4A27.jpeg
 
In the past few weeks of using my Thunderbolt PCIE card, NVIDIA RTX card, LG 5K 27-inch, and Dell 2K 27-inch dual monitors setup, I've encountered a problem. It seems that either the Thunderbolt PCIE card or the NVIDIA RTX card may be initialized after the Windows 10 system. As a result, the display configuration, such as the relative positions of the dual monitors and the resolution of the 5K monitor, is lost after rebooting. I have to manually adjust them in the Windows display settings. I'm not certain if this issue is related to the order of the three display port cables, one for Dell 2K and two for the Thunderbolt PCIE card, as shown in the image in the previous post. Does anyone have any other ideas or solutions to this problem?
 
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One problem I found is that the Thunderbolt PCIE card or the NVIDIA RTX card maybe initialized later than the Windows 10 system? After reboot, the display configuration (such as the relative positions of dual monitors, the resolution of the 5K monitor) is lost. I have to manually change them in the Windows display settings.
Are you running Boot Camp drivers?
 
Are you running Boot Camp drivers?

Apologies, I'm not sure I understand your question. Just to clarify, I use a Windows 10 PC. I'm on this forum because I use Apple's tablet and mobile devices. However, I have limited experience with macOS.
 
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Sorry. I didn't get your question.
My PC runs Windows 10. I'm on the forum because I use Apple's tablet and mobile devices. I have little experience with macOS.
No worries.

Think of Boot Camp as a set of drivers for running Apple hardware on Windows. That seems kind of obvious (Apple hardware = Macs), but it also means stuff like the Magic Mouse and Trackpad and even the Studio Display.

A person with say a Dell w/ Thunderbolt connected to a Studio Display can install the Boot Camp drivers, and then be able to adjust screen brightness through software, for example.

So I think there's a high chance that installing the Boot Camp drivers on your Windows computer will stabilize your issues.

also: download Boot Camp drivers without a Mac
 
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Hi everyone,

Just to report that my Lenovo T480s laptop successfully connected with the LG UltraFine 4K (24MD4KL-B) by using the USB-C cable that came with the LG monitor.

Plug one end of the USB-C cable on the Lenovo USB-C port and the other end directly on any of the two Thunderbolt ports on the LG monitor.

Video resolution at 3840x2160 at 60Hz! And audio works as well.

The only caveat is it doesn't charge the laptop, and since the USB-C port is where the laptop gets power, you're good only while the battery lasts for.
 
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I just gave away my LG 5k to a neighbor, just thoughtlessly assumed he had a Mac… no, it's Windows, and apparently the GPU is barely up to driving the damn thing. Hot to the touch, and now his built-in screen is blinking. I hope I didn't wind up inadvertently cooking his damn laptop —_—
 
I just gave away my LG 5k to a neighbor, just thoughtlessly assumed he had a Mac… no, it's Windows, and apparently the GPU is barely up to driving the damn thing. Hot to the touch, and now his built-in screen is blinking. I hope I didn't wind up inadvertently cooking his damn laptop —_—
What laptop and GPU is this, just out of interest?
 
Hi folks, like many Mac users, I wanted a high-PPI display, but choices are limited. Despite being canceled years earlier, last summer I got a brand new, factory-sealed 22MD4KA 21.5-inch LG UltraFine off of Ebay, for about $350. I guess somebody had it hidden under their bed and forgot about it. Regardless, this was perfect for me, because I don't need the size or features of the 27-inch UltraFine or the Apple Studio Display.

Since this is the only reasonably priced "Retina" model I could find, I'm treating it like a baby. I've had it for eight months now, and it's been perfect, without any image retention issues, ghosting, discoloration, or other problems that have unfortunately plagued some UltraFines.

I currently use it with a base model 2018 Mac mini with a 3.6Ghz i3-8100B and a BlackMagic RX 580 eGPU. While I use it as my primary computer, it works fine with Windows 10 in Boot Camp and I can play basically all PC games currently on the market, but my Mac's useful life as a gaming machine is quickly coming to an end. As well all know, Apple Silicon Macs are impressive, but you can't natively run Windows. So, I'm considering building a PC, just as a side gaming device. I still plan on using a Mac for daily tasks, and games that have macOS versions. I haven't made any decisions about building a PC, and am just in the planning stage.

I realize that the 21.5-inch UltraFine isn't optimal for gaming, running at 60Hz and native 4K, but I'm not a hardcore gamer, so it is fine for what I plan to do with it. Hence, I'm trying to figure out how to share the LG with both a Mac and PC, and to be able to switch between the two with relative ease. Also, I don't have the room for a second monitor, so that option isn't available to me.

I went through all twenty-three pages of this thread, and decided to purchase the Amazon basics bi-directional USB-C to Displayport cable, but it is currently out-of-stock in the U.S., along with many other Amazon locals around the world, so I ordered a refurbished cable from Amazon's U.K. site. Amazon seems to have a global shortage on this particular cable, at the moment, hence my decision to have one shipped from across the pond.

I don't need access to the USB ports or the speakers, just the display, so this cable should work fine for my needs. What is an issue is finding a method to easily switch between a PC and a Mac. Perhaps I am missing something, but I haven't seen a KVM switch or Y-cable that will allow this functionality, at least one which other 22MD4KA owners have verified to 100% work reliably.

On the other hand, I am not averse to simply unplugging the cable on the back of the monitor from one device, and manually switching it to the other. Since I would be keeping the Mac and the PC right next to each other, physical distance isn't an issue. Where I am the most concerned is with the build quality of the LG. As most of us know, the panels inside the UltraFines are fantastic, but the build quality isn't, being rather plastic-y and making creaking noises when you move it. That hasn't been a problem for me thus far, because I only bought it for the quality of the high-PPI display, nothing else.

Anecdotally, I've heard that the sockets that LG used for the USB-C ports are a potential issue. I've seen reports of the sockets falling inside the monitor housing, thus rendering the device useless. Casey Liss, one of the ATP guys, had purchased a used 27-inch UltraFine from a friend, but had to immediately send it off to LG for servicing, because the image would cut in and out, perhaps because the USB-C port had become loosened over time.

I've noticed that it takes an unusual amount of force in order to plug a USB-C cable into the ports on the back of these LG UltraFines. So much so that I've limited the number of times that I've done that, preferring to unplug the cable from the back of the eGPU, instead. As I said, I've been using kid gloves with this monitor and I don't want to accidentally damage it.

So, I could use any feedback that you nice folks may have about this issue. Does anyone here regularly plug/unplug their LG UltraFines? Seeing how the 21.5, 24, and 27-inch models all use the same mechanical sockets, I'd like to hear from anyone that uses them regularly. Has anyone had an issue with one of the ports on the back coming loose or impacting functionality? Also, is anyone aware of either an adapter, or even just a simple extension cord which would allow me to work around this potential problem? As I said, these reports of socket damage are anecdotal, and people who haven't had any problems aren't going to complain about it.

I'd greatly appreciate any thoughts on the matter. Perhaps I am just being paranoid about damaging the UltraFine, but if it were to break, then I'd purchase an Apple Studio Display, and honestly it isn't much of an upgrade to be worth the substantial price over what I already have with my LG.

I appreciate any opinions on the situation.
 
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> As I said, I've been using kid gloves with this monitor and I don't want to accidentally damage it.

Someone here reported success with a KVM, but I'm afraid I lost that thread.

I'm using a Studio Display with an M1 Macbook Pro and a Razer gamer laptop with DisplayPort out. I picked up this cable, it was very slow shipping but works great:

Instead of a KVM, I ordered a set of these magnetic connectors based on the recommendation of someone else here.
 
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