Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.
Suppose I have an LG Ultrafine 4K display.

My compute server has 2 MSI Gaming X Trio RTX 2080. The boards have a USB-C output. The server has no desktop environment, only a console output. But as you can know, you sometimes need a video output and access console directly.

Is this possible to connect one 2080 to one of the input of the Ultrafine display, while the Mac is plugged in Thunderbolt input, and switch between inputs if needed ? It's really rare that I need a console output but it can happen.
 
Is this possible to connect one 2080 to one of the input of the Ultrafine display, while the Mac is plugged in Thunderbolt input, and switch between inputs if needed ? It's really rare that I need a console output but it can happen.
An LG UltraFine 4K display has two Thunderbolt ports. I think either one can be used as an input. I don't think you can connect two computers though (except for Thunderbolt networking). Maybe the display could work for a computer if you turn off the other computer?
 
Hi, I have the latest LG ultrafine 5K model(27MD5KL - has thunderbolt 3) and have a MSI laptop(MSI GL65 Leopard 10SEK-022 - has Mini Display Port & other USB 3 ports)
Will I be directly able to plug in the cables provided to the Wacom Link Plus or do I need to have some adapters and other stuff for it to work?

Asking before buying as I wanted to confirm.
 
Hi, I have the latest LG ultrafine 5K model(27MD5KL - has thunderbolt 3) and have a MSI laptop(MSI GL65 Leopard 10SEK-022 - has Mini Display Port & other USB 3 ports)
Will I be directly able to plug in the cables provided to the Wacom Link Plus or do I need to have some adapters and other stuff for it to work?

Asking before buying as I wanted to confirm.
You will need a USB-C charging cable (USB-A to USB-C should also work).
 
Is this possible to connect one 2080 to one of the input of the Ultrafine display, while the Mac is plugged in Thunderbolt input, and switch between inputs if needed ? It's really rare that I need a console output but it can happen.

I tried this as well as tested a few different DisplayPort switchboxes in conjunction with this monitor. In all cases, it just didn’t work or worked unreliably (would switch once but not a second time). Did this with several different cables including the Huawei VR cable. Ultimately just returned the monitor. YMMV but haven’t seen anyone have any other solution than plugging and unplugging the cables to switch between inputs. If you only have to switch inputs once in a while, that might be an ok approach for you.
 
I tried this as well as tested a few different DisplayPort switchboxes in conjunction with this monitor. In all cases, it just didn’t work or worked unreliably (would switch once but not a second time). Did this with several different cables including the Huawei VR cable. Ultimately just returned the monitor. YMMV but haven’t seen anyone have any other solution than plugging and unplugging the cables to switch between inputs. If you only have to switch inputs once in a while, that might be an ok approach for you.
I read that the Ultrafine displays have only one input. Cannot switch. So it cleared my idea.

Plugging it to a 2080 USB-C should be possible, no?
 
I read that the Ultrafine displays have only one input. Cannot switch. So it cleared my idea.
The latest UltraFine 4K display has two Thunderbolt 3 ports. The manual does not state that only one of them can be an input. Maybe either one can be an input but not at the same time. My idea was that it could work if one of the connected computers is powered down, but I don't think that's what you want. You want to be able to switch while they are both on?

Plugging it to a 2080 USB-C should be possible, no?
2080 USB-C works.

If you you're using only 4K resolution then there's a couple options for switching USB-C.

For Thunderbolt, there's a Thunderbolt 2 KVM (I don't know if these are made anymore). Chain a Thunderbolt 3 device to provide a Thunderbolt 3 port.

For non-Thunderbolt, you can combine a DisplayPort + USB KVM with Belkin Charge and Sync Cable for Huawei VR Glass to switch multiple computers with a USB-C display. But edanuff says this is unreliable? I think others have add better luck #31 #40 .
 
You want to be able to switch while they are both on?
Yeah. If I’m on my Mac and I have to switch to my server, I want to be able to switch the display inputs. I have been doing this with my Dell displays for the last 15 years, I thought it would be possible with a high tech new display like this....
For non-Thunderbolt, you can combine a DisplayPort + USB KVM with Belkin Charge and Sync Cable for Huawei VR Glass to switch multiple computers with a USB-C display. But edanuff says this is unreliable? I think others have add better luck #31 #40 .
what the f.... why is this so complicated when on a 10 year old Dell Ultrasharp it’s just a matter of switching inputs on the display. I don’t mind using high quality cables. I’d go with Apple thunderbolt cable everywhere if needed. That’s not the problem.

I want daisy-Channing two Ultrafine 4K in a Mac Thunderbolt port and being able to switch input of one display between the mac and the server. Except the daisy channing portion, I’ve been doing this for 10 years using lower end hardware.

At worse, I can stand up and change the cable in the back. It would be stupid, but I can.
 
You will need a USB-C charging cable (USB-A to USB-C should also work).
Thank you for the reply. And the monitor only has one thunderbolt input. Should I use the thunderbolt cable to connect the Wacom with the monitor or should I use the USB-C cable for connection and will that work?
 
Thank you for the reply. And the monitor only has one thunderbolt input. Should I use the thunderbolt cable to connect the Wacom with the monitor or should I use the USB-C cable for connection and will that work?
Use the USB-C cable for USB-C connection.
 
Hey guys currently trying to connect a windows laptop I recently got to my LG Ultrafine 5k 27MD5kL. I picked up the Wacom Link Plus adapter and the Club3D HDMI 2.0 to DP 1.2 adapter.

I have my laptop's HDMI 2.0 port connected to the Club3D DP adapter which is in turn plugged into the DP slot on the Wacom Link. I have the Wacom Link Plus plugged into an Apple USB-C 30 W adapter wall plug (doubt this part matters), USB-C connection directly to the LG Ultrafine's rightmost port with the Thunderbolt indicator on it. I also have the micro-usb cord included with the wacom plugged into my laptop. The usb port is working and I can send sound / control the volume on my laptop. The display however isn't connecting at all.

The display does show up when I connect directly to the HDMI port on the Wacom Link Plus, but it doesn't actually work other than just getting detected in the windows display settings.

I tried a number of HDMI cables, and I'm fairly certain a few of them are HDMI 2.0, so I doubt that is the issue. I'm assuming my issue is the Club3D adapter. Are there any other recommendations for an HDMI (2.0) to DP (1.2) adapter?

ASUS ROG G531GT
Wacom Link Plus
Club3D adapter
 
As an Amazon Associate, MacRumors earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through links in this post.
Hey guys currently trying to connect a windows laptop I recently got to my LG Ultrafine 5k 27MD5kL. I picked up the Wacom Link Plus adapter and the Club3D HDMI 2.0 to DP 1.2 adapter.

I have my laptop's HDMI 2.0 port connected to the Club3D DP adapter which is in turn plugged into the DP slot on the Wacom Link. I have the Wacom Link Plus plugged into an Apple USB-C 30 W adapter wall plug (doubt this part matters), USB-C connection directly to the LG Ultrafine's rightmost port with the Thunderbolt indicator on it. I also have the micro-usb cord included with the wacom plugged into my laptop. The usb port is working and I can send sound / control the volume on my laptop. The display however isn't connecting at all.

The display does show up when I connect directly to the HDMI port on the Wacom Link Plus, but it doesn't actually work other than just getting detected in the windows display settings.

I tried a number of HDMI cables, and I'm fairly certain a few of them are HDMI 2.0, so I doubt that is the issue. I'm assuming my issue is the Club3D adapter. Are there any other recommendations for an HDMI (2.0) to DP (1.2) adapter?
The HDMI input of the Wacom Link is only HDMI 1.4, so you can't get more than 4K 30Hz using that (or 2560x1440 60Hz). Did you try either of those resolutions?

The Club-3D adapter is only for converting DisplayPort to HDMI. If you want to use the DisplayPort input of the Wacom Link Plus and your laptop doesn't have a DisplayPort output, then you need to use a HDMI 2.0 to DisplayPort adapter such as the CAC-1331.
 
I tried again just now connecting to the Wacom Link HDMI port, but it still just does't work at all. The resolution says it's locked to 640x480, but again the display completely blank and non-functioning.

Thank you for the link to the Club3D adapter. I just bought a DisplayPort to MiniDisplayPort cable and the Club 3D. I'll report back in a few days if it works.

Club 3D Adapter

DisplayPort to MiniDisplayPort Cable
 
As an Amazon Associate, MacRumors earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through links in this post.
Hi all ~ First off, thanks so much to joevt for compiling on the information on these monitors and being so responsive across several forums.

I purchased a LG UltraFine 4K 22MD4k (the older, 21.5" 4K sku) recently and so far have been unsuccessful in getting an image to display on screen - it remains resolutely black whenever I plug it into a computer - and I wondered if this was something others have encountered or been able to solve.

Setup and steps I've taken:
  • Plugged the monitor into my Linux-running ThinkPad Yoga 370's USB-C port via the cable that came with the monitor
    • xrandr recognized the monitor and I could set it as a 2nd screen, but the screen remains black, ddcutils reports the brightness as 0, and I get an error any time I attempt to set the brightness via ddcutils.
  • Plugged the monitor into an AMD graphics card in a desktop computer running the latest Windows 10 via the recommended Amazon Basics bi-directional USB-C to DisplayPort cable
    • Both Windows display properties and ClickMonitorDDC recognize the monitor (and Windows recognizes the correct display resolution as well). I've had two experiences with this: first, ClickMonitorDDC showed the monitor checkbox with a checkmark in it (I'm using a 2nd monitor for troubleshooting this) and reported the brightness as 0 - whenever I tried to change the brightness then clicked away, it would always reset down to 0 (and of course there was no change on the monitor itself). After unplugging, replugging, and rescanning, ClickMonitorDDC now shows the box as unchecked (does this mean it thinks the monitor is off..??) and the brightness slider will now move up and down without re-setting to 0, but again, the monitor stays black and nothing changes. If I shift click the empty check-box, the monitor disappears from ClickMonitorDDC's list, stays gone for a couple seconds, then re-appears, showing brightness of 0 - and the box is still not checked.
    • I just tried using EasyMCC, and when I select the LG monitor, I get "ErrorCode: 0xC0262589" in a message box. Googling seems to indicate that this is an "ERROR_GRAPHICS_DDCCI_INVALID_MESSAGE_COMMAND" error code? Not sure what that indicates here.
    • I've successfully installed the Boot Camp drivers using brigadier, and have the Boot Camp Control Panel open. When I plug the monitor into the motherboard's USB-C port, the Display tab of the Boot Camp Control Panel detects the external display and shows a blank drop-down menu + brightness slider bar & "Adjust brightness automatically" checkbox. However, the brightness slider does not affect the monitor at all -- still black -- and Windows doesn't recognize it as a 2nd display in Display settings (which I think is an issue with the motherboard's USB-C port or something. however the speakers & HID Ambient Light Sensor do work / show up as working in the device manager, lol)
I'm stumped! Any ideas?

Update: for the briefest of seconds, the monitor actually worked! I'd rebooted after installing the boot camp drivers, then switched the displayport cable out for the USB-C cable (obviously didn't work, as above) -- but when I switched back to the displayport cable, the monitor turned on! I opened ClickMonitorDDC, and it was responding to the commands as expected - changing brightness levels to match the ClickMonitorDDC settings.

Strangely, when I went into Windows' display settings to switch the resolution from the recommended 3090x?? to the full 4096px resolution, the monitor blacked out - and then would turn on again when I clicked "revert settings". Then I applied the higher res, the monitor blacked out, and didn't come back on when I reverted down & applied again. Plugged & unplugged, still doesn't turn on. I'm so confused, but at least I know the physical screen itself isn't broken (bought it off ebay so only ever getting a black screen was freaking me out).

I'd still love to know how to consistently get the monitor to turn on! Kinda hard to use it otherwise. No idea what caused it to start working for that brief moment, or why it would black out when I changed the resolution.
 
Last edited:
Hi all ~ First off, thanks so much to joevt for compiling on the information on these monitors and being so responsive across several forums.

I purchased a LG UltraFine 4K 22MD4k (the older, 21.5" 4K sku) recently and so far have been unsuccessful in getting an image to display on screen - it remains resolutely black whenever I plug it into a computer - and I wondered if this was something others have encountered or been able to solve.

Setup and steps I've taken:
  • Plugged the monitor into my Linux-running ThinkPad Yoga 370's USB-C port via the cable that came with the monitor
    • xrandr recognized the monitor and I could set it as a 2nd screen, but the screen remains black, ddcutils reports the brightness as 0, and I get an error any time I attempt to set the brightness via ddcutils.
  • Plugged the monitor into an AMD graphics card in a desktop computer running the latest Windows 10 via the recommended Amazon Basics bi-directional USB-C to DisplayPort cable
    • Both Windows display properties and ClickMonitorDDC recognize the monitor (and Windows recognizes the correct display resolution as well). I've had two experiences with this: first, ClickMonitorDDC showed the monitor checkbox with a checkmark in it (I'm using a 2nd monitor for troubleshooting this) and reported the brightness as 0 - whenever I tried to change the brightness then clicked away, it would always reset down to 0 (and of course there was no change on the monitor itself). After unplugging, replugging, and rescanning, ClickMonitorDDC now shows the box as unchecked (does this mean it thinks the monitor is off..??) and the brightness slider will now move up and down without re-setting to 0, but again, the monitor stays black and nothing changes. If I shift click the empty check-box, the monitor disappears from ClickMonitorDDC's list, stays gone for a couple seconds, then re-appears, showing brightness of 0 - and the box is still not checked.
    • I just tried using EasyMCC, and when I select the LG monitor, I get "ErrorCode: 0xC0262589" in a message box. Googling seems to indicate that this is an "ERROR_GRAPHICS_DDCCI_INVALID_MESSAGE_COMMAND" error code? Not sure what that indicates here.
    • I've successfully installed the Boot Camp drivers using brigadier, and have the Boot Camp Control Panel open. When I plug the monitor into the motherboard's USB-C port, the Display tab of the Boot Camp Control Panel detects the external display and shows a blank drop-down menu + brightness slider bar & "Adjust brightness automatically" checkbox. However, the brightness slider does not affect the monitor at all -- still black -- and Windows doesn't recognize it as a 2nd display in Display settings (which I think is an issue with the motherboard's USB-C port or something. however the speakers & HID Ambient Light Sensor do work / show up as working in the device manager, lol)
I'm stumped! Any ideas?

Update: for the briefest of seconds, the monitor actually worked! I'd rebooted after installing the boot camp drivers, then switched the displayport cable out for the USB-C cable (obviously didn't work, as above) -- but when I switched back to the displayport cable, the monitor turned on! I opened ClickMonitorDDC, and it was responding to the commands as expected - changing brightness levels to match the ClickMonitorDDC settings.

Strangely, when I went into Windows' display settings to switch the resolution from the recommended 3090x?? to the full 4096px resolution, the monitor blacked out - and then would turn on again when I clicked "revert settings". Then I applied the higher res, the monitor blacked out, and didn't come back on when I reverted down & applied again. Plugged & unplugged, still doesn't turn on. I'm so confused, but at least I know the physical screen itself isn't broken (bought it off ebay so only ever getting a black screen was freaking me out).

I'd still love to know how to consistently get the monitor to turn on! Kinda hard to use it otherwise. No idea what caused it to start working for that brief moment, or why it would black out when I changed the resolution.
The ThinkPad Yoga 370 has CPU up to 7th Generation Intel® Core™ i7-7500U Processor (what CPU do you have?) with Integrated Intel® HD Graphics 620 (should be capable of 4096x2304 60Hz 8bpc - is that correct?) and a Thunderbolt 3 port (have you tried other displays from the Thunderbolt 3 port?).

The 21.5" LG UltraFine 4K is a USB-C display that has a native resolution of 4096x2304 60Hz - it should come with a USB-C cable. Did you try that cable? Do not use a Thunderbolt cable because it is not a Thunderbolt display (the new Apple Thunderbolt Pro cable may work though - it's a new type of full speed Thunderbolt 3 cable that also works with USB-C).

Did you try 3840x2160 in Linux on the Yoga or in Windows on the desktop with AMD?

What motherboard? Maybe the USB-C port is for data only? That would explain why the USB devices of the display shows up (brightness control, USB audio, HID ambient light sensor), but not the display itself.

Maybe you need a new USB-C cable? For DisplayPort output, maybe get a Belkin charge and sync cable to support USB + DisplayPort. Maybe the Amazon bi-directional cable is coming from a different source than the one that was successful - in that case, try the ALOGIC cable.
 
Hi guys. Saw this thread and bought the wacom however my 5k lg monitor connected to my pc does not work. My pc does not have a mini port display so I used an adapter to convert it to hdmi but that doesn’t work. Do I need to buy this cable for it to work? Just don’t want to spend more money if it’s not going to work.
378E0F07-4C50-4040-8B71-B159F8B1B0FA.jpeg
 
Hey again Joe,

Those adapters you suggested work great. From my limited testing so far, I’m getting webcam, audio, video up to 4k60, and the extra ports on the ultrafine work as it picked up the ethernet cable I have plugged into it.

The only two issues I’ve seen so far was the monitor video blacked out a few times. I think this stopped happening once I plugged the Club3D adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...n_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=mrforums-20) usb-a port into power, so I’m guessing this was caused by a lack of power.

The second issue is audio from the ultrafine speaker is coming through very crackly. I’m curious what the proper audio setup is here including if I wanted to keep the wacom link plus usb port connected, but use headphones at the same time. I tried plugging into the headphone jack on the laptop while connected the ultrafine and it seeemed to ignore it. Perhaps I just have to dig into audio settings for windows on that point, but regardless not sure how to fix the crackling.
 
As an Amazon Associate, MacRumors earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through links in this post.
The only two issues I’ve seen so far was the monitor video blacked out a few times. I think this stopped happening once I plugged the Club3D adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...n_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=mrforums-20) usb-a port into power, so I’m guessing this was caused by a lack of power.
Are you saying the Club-3d CAC-1331 works occasionally without USB power? I would definitely not use it without USB power.

The second issue is audio from the ultrafine speaker is coming through very crackly. I’m curious what the proper audio setup is here including if I wanted to keep the wacom link plus usb port connected, but use headphones at the same time. I tried plugging into the headphone jack on the laptop while connected the ultrafine and it seeemed to ignore it. Perhaps I just have to dig into audio settings for windows on that point, but regardless not sure how to fix the crackling.
The UltraFine uses USB audio - it is purely digital so there should be no interference. I mean, you should be able to connect a USB audio device to a USB port of the display and also get perfect results.

Windows can switch audio output between multiple output devices (USB or not USB).
 
As an Amazon Associate, MacRumors earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through links in this post.
Sorry so confused. I have the old lg 27md5ka lg Ultrafine 5k monitor and no display port on my work pc laptop. Installing drivers or adding hardware is not feasible. Does it mean the Wacom is not going to work? Bought the link plus but so far tried multiple combinations with the micro USB and hdmi however no luck.
 
Are you saying the Club-3d CAC-1331 works occasionally without USB power? I would definitely not use it without USB power.


The UltraFine uses USB audio - it is purely digital so there should be no interference. I mean, you should be able to connect a USB audio device to a USB port of the display and also get perfect results.

Windows can switch audio output between multiple output devices (USB or not USB).

I used the setup for a few hours and everything seemed great with USB power. I still have not solved / looked into the crackling audio because I ended up using headphones over USB plugged into the laptop. Is it possibly a USB 2.0 speed limitation causing the audio sent from the laptop to the monitor to be crackly? I can share a video of how it sounds if it's useful. I noticed in the Windows settings it said something about speeds being limited to 2.0 which was strange because I'm pretty certain the USB ports are 3.0. I also just tested again on all the USB ports and still had the crackling audio.

I'm somewhat content with accepting this issue because otherwise everything else seems to be working.

Also just out of curiosity if you have a windows computer with native Thunderbolt 3 it should just connect as easily as a MacBook does right?
 
Sorry so confused. I have the old lg 27md5ka lg Ultrafine 5k monitor and no display port on my work pc laptop. Installing drivers or adding hardware is not feasible. Does it mean the Wacom is not going to work? Bought the link plus but so far tried multiple combinations with the micro USB and hdmi however no luck.
The original LG UltraFine 5K (27MD5KA) only works with a Thunderbolt connection. Wacom Link Plus is only USB-C. I suppose it could be possible to connect HDMI from laptop to a HDMI to DisplayPort adapter, then connect DisplayPort to a DisplayPort input of a Thunderbolt 3 add-in card, then connect the Thunderbolt Display to that.

The new LG UltraFine 5K (27MD5KL) works with Thunderbolt or USB-C. Thunderbolt is required for 5K. The Wacom Link Plus can do 4K to this display.

I used the setup for a few hours and everything seemed great with USB power. I still have not solved / looked into the crackling audio because I ended up using headphones over USB plugged into the laptop. Is it possibly a USB 2.0 speed limitation causing the audio sent from the laptop to the monitor to be crackly? I can share a video of how it sounds if it's useful. I noticed in the Windows settings it said something about speeds being limited to 2.0 which was strange because I'm pretty certain the USB ports are 3.0. I also just tested again on all the USB ports and still had the crackling audio.

I'm somewhat content with accepting this issue because otherwise everything else seems to be working.
USB audio does not usually require USB 3.x. The Wacom Link Plus can only connect USB 2.0. A USB-C connection cannot do USB 3.x unless the number of DisplayPort lanes is reduced from 4 to 2. You can't do 4K 60Hz with 2 lanes of DisplayPort 1.2. If you connect the LG UltraFine 5K to Thunderbolt, then the ports can be USB 3.0 but if you look at the USB audio, I believe it will still be USB 2.0.

Also just out of curiosity if you have a windows computer with native Thunderbolt 3 it should just connect as easily as a MacBook does right?
Yeah, but you might want to install Boot Camp drivers to use some of the feature of the LG UltraFine 5K such as brightness control over USB (though this is also possible using DDC/CI over DisplayPort).
 
USB audio does not usually require USB 3.x. The Wacom Link Plus can only connect USB 2.0. A USB-C connection cannot do USB 3.x unless the number of DisplayPort lanes is reduced from 4 to 2. You can't do 4K 60Hz with 2 lanes of DisplayPort 1.2. If you connect the LG UltraFine 5K to Thunderbolt, then the ports can be USB 3.0 but if you look at the USB audio, I believe it will still be USB 2.0.
Hey again. I wanted to share a sample of how the audio sounds. My brief troubleshooting has still gotten me nowhere.
. Again I might just accept this limitation if there's no clear solution. Thanks.
 
Hey again. I wanted to share a sample of how the audio sounds. My brief troubleshooting has still gotten me nowhere.
. Again I might just accept this limitation if there's no clear solution. Thanks.
It doesn't sound like a USB problem.
That happens with any audio?
Does the issue occur with different apps? Different sources? YouTube? iTunes?
Does the issue occur when the display is connected to other computers?
Lower the volume?
Disable any equalizer that may be in use?
Maybe it's a display problem. Get a replacement display?
 
It doesn't sound like a USB problem.
That happens with any audio?
Does the issue occur with different apps? Different sources? YouTube? iTunes?
Does the issue occur when the display is connected to other computers?
Lower the volume?
Disable any equalizer that may be in use?
Maybe it's a display problem. Get a replacement display?
Yes any audio I've tested with the laptop plugged into the display. I've just done testing with a bunch of random micro-usb cables and this seems to come down to some property of the cable. I figured this out because I tried testing the same Windows adapter setup on my MacBook and it also had crackling audio. I also tried messing with drivers and other software in windows. Also noting I don't think this is anything on the Ultrafine itself.

I'm wondering if there's an "ideal" micro-usb cable? It seems they are all limited to USB 2.0 speeds since the USB 3.0 micro-usb connector is entirely different. The latest cable I've tried gets the least crackles, so it is better.
 
With a single DisplayPort cable, the LG UltraFine 5K display (the new one) only allows 4K 60Hz. To get 5K 60 Hz with the new or old LG UltraFine 5K you need a Thunderbolt 3 connection that has two DisplayPort 1.2 signals from the GPU. The LG UltraFine 5K display uses two tiles of 2560x2880.
[..]
The LG UltraFine 5K has no 5K single tile mode (like 5K 30Hz). iMac 5K displays are also dual tile displays.
So does that applies to the old 5k as well I guess, right?

What if I connect it to the Z490 Vision D motherboard, which has onboard Titan Ridge support with one DP 1.4 input? I would do: PCIE graphic card w/ DP 1.4 output -> DP 1.4 input -> TB3 output to monitor input

And, if that doesn't work, would it work using the GC Titan Ridge addon card, which has two separates DP inputs?

EDIT
after reading here and here, it looks like I've got my answer; basically, I need two DP inputs to drive the Ultrafine 5k @ 5k, so the usage of add-on card is mandatory; do you agree ?
 
Last edited:
Register on MacRumors! This sidebar will go away, and you'll see fewer ads.