Do I have to start from scratch (10.13.6) since I already have BootROM 141.0.0.0.0 running?
In other words, how to upgrade from 141.0.0.0.0 to 144.0.0.0.0?
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MP 1,1-5,1 MacPro5,1: BootROM thread | 144.0.0.0.0
- Thread starter tsialex
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In other words, how to upgrade from 141.0.0.0.0 to 144.0.0.0.0?
Run 10.14.6 full Mac App Store installer, this is already answered in the first post I linked.
Catalina 10.15.3 DP1 build 19D49f just released. No full installer as of yet, just differential and combo.
New BridgeOS release, so new firmwares for T2 Macs.
[automerge]1576610009[/automerge]
Same firmwares as 10.15.2 final:
New BridgeOS release, so new firmwares for T2 Macs.
[automerge]1576610009[/automerge]
Same firmwares as 10.15.2 final:
| Mac: | EFI version: |
|---|---|
| IM13,1 | 288.0.0.0.0 |
| IM14,1 | 140.0.0.0.0 |
| IM14,2 | 140.0.0.0.0 |
| IM14,3 | 140.0.0.0.0 |
| IM14,4 | 200.0.0.0.0 |
| IM15,1 | 231.0.0.0.0 |
| IM16,1 | 232.0.0.0.0 |
| IM16,2 | 232.0.0.0.0 |
| IM17,1 | 174.0.0.0.0 |
| IM18,1 | 179.0.0.0.0 |
| IM18,3 | 179.0.0.0.0 |
| IM19,1 | 1037.60.5.0.0 |
| MB10,1 | 183.0.0.0.0 |
| MB8,1 | 186.0.0.0.0 |
| MB9,1 | 188.0.0.0.0 |
| MBA5,1 | 260.0.0.0.0 |
| MBA6,1 | 118.0.0.0.0 |
| MBA7,1 | 191.0.0.0.0 |
| MBP10,1 | 258.0.0.0.0 |
| MBP10,2 | 281.0.0.0.0 |
| MBP11,1 | 157.0.0.0.0 |
| MBP11,2 | 157.0.0.0.0 |
| MBP11,4 | 195.0.0.0.0 |
| MBP12,1 | 188.0.0.0.0 |
| MBP13,1 | 241.0.0.0.0 |
| MBP13,2 | 263.0.0.0.0 |
| MBP13,3 | 263.0.0.0.0 |
| MBP14,1 | 203.0.0.0.0 |
| MBP14,2 | 203.0.0.0.0 |
| MBP14,3 | 203.0.0.0.0 |
| MBP9,1 | 229.0.0.0.0 |
| MM6,1 | 281.0.0.0.0 |
| MM7,1 | 245.0.0.0.0 |
| MP6,1 | 133.0.0.0.0 |
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Hi tsialex
I have already received EEPROM Routing USB Programmer CH341A to fix the problem with the boot of my Macpro 5.1.
What exactly is the chip to desolder?
Is this chip?
Thanks!
I have already received EEPROM Routing USB Programmer CH341A to fix the problem with the boot of my Macpro 5.1.
What exactly is the chip to desolder?
Is this chip?
Thanks!
no Romtool is a Tool to program the chip when built in the mac.
You need Flashrom (easiest way is to install homebrew and then brew install flashrom) to use the ch341 programmer.
I have installed brew of that address and I have executed the command that indicates me in the terminal.
I don't see any new applications or what to do
What do I have to do now?
Understand that I have the computer disassembled and for me this situation is complicated
I don't see any new applications or what to do
What do I have to do now?
Understand that I have the computer disassembled and for me this situation is complicated
I’ve documented all the steps back in September 2018, see my screenshots.
flashrom is a line of command program, you run it from the Terminal:
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Hello, I think my 5.1 died.
its won't post.
The Bootrom was 144.0.0.0.0.
Its a 2010 with a W3680.
I never had the W killer Rom in there.
I removed pretty much everything except for WIFI and Bluethoth cards to find the problem.
I read the repair Manual, but I didn't get it 100%.
The red OV TEMP LED CPU-A CPU-B flash once when power is connected and when it is disconnected shorter.
If I press the DIAG button before I try to start it up, the 5V STBY is steady Yellow.
If I start it up, the fans spin up to normal, and the red LED on the Processor tray is flashing once red
but other wise it stays dark in there.
If I press the DIAG button I get the PSU LED green, the 5V STBY Yellow and the SYS PG LED is green.
but everything bellow is off.
I have installed WIN10, Boot Camp, to trigger the Titan Ridge Thunderbolt Card.
that worked very well so far.
Im pretty sure it is installed in Legacy mode, unless I completely misunderstood how to, which I doubt.
I unplugged the power, moved the machine 3 feet and plugged in, dead.
before that I had a little trouble to get bootcamp to boot in to OSX, it kept booting in to the recovery partition of OSX. Then after about 3 attempts it did boot into OSX again, but I think the next time I try to boot it was dead. Im not 100% sure though if it was once or twice.
I changed the CR battery also.
Is that a dead EFI ?
I could get a other one for more or less decent.
Since I have invested in CPU Graphics Ram and THB, I would like to stay in 10.13 or 10.14 for now.
Otherwise it will be a long upgrade tail since there is some old software I want to keep using.
Im a bit afraid it will happen again.
As far as I understood, there is no real evidence, what exactly causes the EFI to become corrupt.
there was strong Suspicion that Win10 Installed in EFI mode causes it.
I could be wrong about that, since the knowledge is probably much more advanced by now.
I hope it is not the wrong thread, if it is, please point me there, thanks a lot.
NoLemon
its won't post.
The Bootrom was 144.0.0.0.0.
Its a 2010 with a W3680.
I never had the W killer Rom in there.
I removed pretty much everything except for WIFI and Bluethoth cards to find the problem.
I read the repair Manual, but I didn't get it 100%.
The red OV TEMP LED CPU-A CPU-B flash once when power is connected and when it is disconnected shorter.
If I press the DIAG button before I try to start it up, the 5V STBY is steady Yellow.
If I start it up, the fans spin up to normal, and the red LED on the Processor tray is flashing once red
but other wise it stays dark in there.
If I press the DIAG button I get the PSU LED green, the 5V STBY Yellow and the SYS PG LED is green.
but everything bellow is off.
I have installed WIN10, Boot Camp, to trigger the Titan Ridge Thunderbolt Card.
that worked very well so far.
Im pretty sure it is installed in Legacy mode, unless I completely misunderstood how to, which I doubt.
I unplugged the power, moved the machine 3 feet and plugged in, dead.
before that I had a little trouble to get bootcamp to boot in to OSX, it kept booting in to the recovery partition of OSX. Then after about 3 attempts it did boot into OSX again, but I think the next time I try to boot it was dead. Im not 100% sure though if it was once or twice.
I changed the CR battery also.
Is that a dead EFI ?
I could get a other one for more or less decent.
Since I have invested in CPU Graphics Ram and THB, I would like to stay in 10.13 or 10.14 for now.
Otherwise it will be a long upgrade tail since there is some old software I want to keep using.
Im a bit afraid it will happen again.
As far as I understood, there is no real evidence, what exactly causes the EFI to become corrupt.
there was strong Suspicion that Win10 Installed in EFI mode causes it.
I could be wrong about that, since the knowledge is probably much more advanced by now.
I hope it is not the wrong thread, if it is, please point me there, thanks a lot.
NoLemon
If you eliminated everything else, do a power off, power on, wait 10 seconds, press DIAG button and if EFI DONE LED is off, you probably have a corrupted BootROM. Your options are:
- repair the corrupted BootROM reprogramming the SPI flash (I’ve documented all the steps back in September 2018, see my screenshots),
- replace the backplane, cheapest option for people that can't do SMD repairs,
- buy a SPI replacement card, like a Mac Pro MATT card. This is the costlier option and have problems that I wrote about several times.
It's correctly soldered, but I never used this board.
Btw, Windows ch341a app have a problem to recognise SST25VF032B, use flashrom if you are trying to program one. See #4,061
Thanks tsialex.
Its the EFI then, just don't get how and why.
Is there a way to check EFI corruption possibly on a regular basis, before it kills the EFI ?
Is it possible, Windows 10 does it anyway, even though its installed in Legacy mode, or that one of the upgrades started corrupting it ?
Soldering Is not a option, even if I would have the tools, my vision is not good enough to distinguish one leg SMD chip from the other =)
Thanks again
You can make constant dumps, but it's useless without the knowledge to interpret it.
The SPI corruption problem is caused by more than just one thing, not just SecureBoot. Remember that even the last made mid-2012 Mac Pro already have 7 years of usage and by this point the SPI flash is very long in the erase program lifecycles.
The safest option is to have a SPI flash replacement, like a MATT card. Matt card works fine as a hardware product, the problem is just the code inside that needs to be changed.
Ok.
That makes sense.
I would have to read all that info, so far I just read some.
If it requires programming, I don't think I have the skills.
=)
hahaha... a used 2010 logic board is €400 here ... a new one €900.
Didn't find that much about the matt cards problems to program.
I understand that the generic EFI makes it start but all the cloud services won't work,
in other words, apple doesn't recognise the number of the generic chip.
Most likely I do have a rom dump some where, but at the moment I can't access the files, on the HDs in the broken Mac.
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To make a MATT card work correctly you just flash it with the correct BootROM image for your Mac Pro. The BootROM image cmizapper sends you is a clone from a mid-2010 Mac Pro that still have MP51.007F.B00, from August 2010. Once you have the correct image for your own Mac Pro flashed, it's a top notch product.
I use exactly that board, soldered that way. Works.
[automerge]1577741163[/automerge]
As you state Euros I maybe can help if you post the board to germany.
[automerge]1577741163[/automerge]
As you state Euros I maybe can help if you post the board to germany.
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Hi Macschrauber,
So the chip is well welded and well placed? I can't get it to work properly.
From windows I get an error and it doesn't detect the chip.
Now I am going to test from Flashrom, but for me it is important to know that the chip is well placed in the eprom recorder
The new chip that I bought is this:
So the chip is well welded and well placed? I can't get it to work properly.
From windows I get an error and it doesn't detect the chip.
Now I am going to test from Flashrom, but for me it is important to know that the chip is well placed in the eprom recorder
The new chip that I bought is this:
I can double check when I am back at the shop on Jan, 2nd. Dont have the prommer near me now.
Maybe the chip failed. Test your setup with a know working one.
[automerge]1577743301[/automerge]
man flashrom shows the info page for flashrom. It's the -r option.