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Option B would be to re-program the gMux IC (which is simply a Lattice LFXP2 FPGA), with a custom firmware to disable the GPU switching functionality.


I know brightness doesn’t work but it was better the other option. I was running sierra for a long time but the accessing smb shares took to long. High Sierra fixes those problem.

I was using the nvram fix for a while but since that doesn’t work well with high sierra because of sleep. I didn’t want to solder anymore wires.
It´s not a firmware.
 
Have successfully managed a 15" macbook in the past but currently struggling with a 17" model.
I see you mentioned removing L2406, where is this exactly and I'll give that a go instead.

Also @dosdude1 whats the current situation with your dying light mod, are you guys still making those ?
 
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Right above the fan, same 17" 2011 model (A1297). Did not work with or without of the 100pf capacitor, but worked first try with L2406 removed. No pictures any where, but luckily found a boardview for it, and a hint maybe use an hot air, almost broke it when removing it with regular iron.
 
Because the programming fails if it was not removed. I tried 20 times, just thinking it was an wiring issue (and added the capacitor). After removing the coil, it worked at first try.
 
Well you dont need to remove anything, if it works.
It is needed only if it is not programming correctly.
 
Hi at all, can you show where is located the l2406 in a 15" macbook pro 2011? should be removed and reinserted with an hot air?Thank you
 
I finally got the programmer to see the FPGA! I found a thread here that solved my TCK problem. @fastlogon , it looks like you were having a similar issue to me. Give the instructions in that thread a go. Perhaps it will help you.

that link no longer works. any ideas to make the lattice see the programmer?
 
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Right above the fan, same 17" 2011 model (A1297). Did not work with or without of the 100pf capacitor, but worked first try with L2406 removed. No pictures any where, but luckily found a boardview for it, and a hint maybe use an hot air, almost broke it when removing it with regular iron.
Yeh worked perfectly first time once I removed this.
Thanks for the help bud.

As for why to remove it, if you read further back in the thread i think it was mentioned about line voltages being pulled down by other components, removing this component stops the voltages being pulled down and effectively blocking the patch/programming from working.
 
Yeh worked perfectly first time once I removed this.
Thanks for the help bud.

As for why to remove it, if you read further back in the thread i think it was mentioned about line voltages being pulled down by other components, removing this component stops the voltages being pulled down and effectively blocking the patch/programming from working.
Is it easy removing with hot air? I have one but haven't really used it and I don't wanna burn out the inductor. Can you give some pointers? I do t have hot tweezers

Thx
 
DosDude1, thank you very much for your job, I have success after delete l2406
 

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Hi Dosdude

Just wondering if work continues on the keyboard brightness fix. Battery button fix works well (cunning workaround) but still hoping for a non volatile option. Any news?
 
Hi, windows 7 or windows 10, in legacy working correctly after dmux mod? I have installed ubuntu, working good
 
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I can ship one from Germany if you like, it even has the little "adapter" I've done for my MBP and how my update went few pages above.
I was waiting for the brightness control version, but it seems that will never come anymore :(

Cheers,
Mircea
Hi Mircea,

I'm in the UK. All the programmers available here come from China and take two months, and that's before they charge me extra for customs fees and VAT. I had also previously bought the DeMux and DyingLight chips, before the recommended repair method changed, so I'm down a bit of money already. Luckily, dosdude has agreed to offer me a flashing key for this new method, in exchange for my previous purchases.

Do you still have your programmer with you in Germany, and would you be open to posting it to me, at my cost of postage? It would be a faster delivery, and much cheaper postage, and would get some more useful use out of the programmer, instead of me buying one too for one job.

Let me know if you'd be up for that,

Thanks a lot!
 
As far as I know, @dosdude1 highly recommends using a real machine running windows instead of a virtual machine. Initially, I thought of using Parallels but when reading this forum I just gave up and borrow my friend's laptop and did the process. I tried several times and was getting error messages one after another. I replaced the wires, lose some pads, soldered 100pF capacitor removed the coil and I only got success after installing new drivers for Lattice. I used the diamond drivers.
Run the software as admin and it will put a log file in you C:\ drive. after that, read what the log says and post it here.
I hope I helped you.
Do you know what diamond drivers you installed exactly? Having a similar issue and before I do everything else I want to try the new drivers as you did.
 
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