It was posters I meant. Some pix are fine to look at for a while, and others you want to see on your wall every day. I'm not sure quite what the difference is; I just know it when I see it. Your most recent mountain shot, for example, would make a great poster, IMO.
I have a friend who keeps talking about marketing some of my pix as decor (he's an interior designer, and particularly likes canvas prints), but nothing has come of it... yet. In the meantime I've signed up to a website that offers print-on-demand for all kinds of art/photography... with the artist/photographer getting royalties on sales. Take a look: Artist Rising
I'm uploading 50 of my 'look nice on a wall' kind of pix, and see if I get any sales. I'm trying to put my own tastes to one side, when choosing, to pick the most saleable pix (so not necessarily the ones I like best).
Maybe MR folk can help me. I've got a few shots which might work with the orton effect, and wonder which seems more saleable.
This is the original version (actually HDR, to 'beef up' the contre-jour effect)...
...and this is the ortonised version...
One from me, this is an old grave yard that has been turned into a public park all the graves are at least 100 years old and all the old gravestones have been stacked up agaist a wall in the park
graves by Shaun Wilkinson Photography, on Flickr
I could use a little C&C with this one... I was playing with a new ND8 filter, and I was surprised to see that I had a hard time getting my pictures turning out as sharp as I would like. I was using a Nikkor 16-85, tripod mounted, with VR turned OFF. It was a little windy so I could have been getting some shake from that. I also had the two second shutter delay enabled so depressing the shutter wouldn't affect the image. Any ideas why I couldn't get it nice and sharp? Thanks in advance!
Anchor your tripod down with something, little movements over a long exposure will have great effects.
Ensure your tripod is tightened up everywhere, reducing all the legs helps (this also helps you incorporate sky into your shots if that's what you're after).
As mentioned, manual focus could work, with the help of live-view.
Or simply take the filter off when autofocusing.
Also, looking at the EXIF, it says you took the shot at f/36.
This is well into diffraction territory (it will make your images soft), you should stop at around f/11 (or f/16 if absolutely necessary).
Yosemite Oct 2011
Canon 5D
F4
28mm