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I want one of those! I think they're awesome! :)

EDIT: I assume your camera's date has never been set. ;)
 
Anyone have $465 and $95/hr x 1.5 to 3hrs for a new ignition?

Anyone?

Anyone?

I think it might be cheaper to buy a crashed up rover and just take its ignition out.
 
Get your parents to pay! They're the ones that broke it!:rolleyes: :D

They are. But even I think its stupid to pay up to $750 for a little stupid little lock that should not even break in the first place. I am buying a used one and I am installing it myself, I've read its not very difficult.

To anyone that steals cars, breaking open the ignition of a discovery 1 (1998 and earlier) is not difficult at all. Basically squeeze the top of the steering column and pull up. There you go- the ignition and all the wires leading into it. Don't attempt it on a 1999+ disco or a range rover because they have the most sophisticated alarm systems ever.

I would also like to mention they put 87 octane in my car, its supposed to use 91 or higher. I tend to put mid-grade in it since gas is now so expensive. I could definitely feel that the engine was not running as well as it usually does.
 
take the opprotunity to make the ignition a dummy switch. i.e., there is a harness under the dash that connect to one going to the ignition switch. It is very easy to unhook it, get another harness for <$50 that would normally go to the ignition switch, and run it instead to a $ 5 push-button switch which you can install out of site under the dash. Much cheaper, safer, and pretty neat.
 
take the opprotunity to make the ignition a dummy switch. i.e., there is a harness under the dash that connect to one going to the ignition switch. It is very easy to unhook it, get another harness for <$50 that would normally go to the ignition switch, and run it instead to a $ 5 push-button switch which you can install out of site under the dash. Much cheaper, safer, and pretty neat.

I was considering that. just a switch for power and a button for the starter. Probably would cost like $10 total haha.

Believe me though, I don't think the installation of a new one will be very hard.
1) Unclip top of steering column.
2) Open up bottom 1/2 of dash (very easy)
3) Unscrew buttom part of steering column (2 screws)
4) Remove 2 shear bolts
5) Remove two small screws
6) Unplug wires
 
For those of you who ahven't visited the Biodiesel/WVO/SVO thread, here are the pictures of my greaser. 2004 VW Jetta Wagon TDi with greasecar kit (runs on vegetable oil!)

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Not mine but my dad 06 Pontiac GTO couple months old with 1700 miles on it with nitrous oxide:

400 hp/ft pounds of torque stock

550 hp with nitrous

Video: 10 - 120 mph


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Nice shot PlymouthBreezer


Anyone know the significance of 4 turn signals on the back of the car alone?

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I've noticed off-road vehicles such as Hummers, Monteros, and Troopers have turn and/or brake lights on their bumpers too.

Tail lights in the bumper, because the rear tailgate mounted spare restricts the angle of vision for the higher set of lights, so they put them down in the bumper. Kinda expensive afterthought to meet design rules somewhere.
 
Tail lights in the bumper, because the rear tailgate mounted spare restricts the angle of vision for the higher set of lights, so they put them down in the bumper. Kinda expensive afterthought to meet design rules somewhere.

good thought but what about jeep wranglers and 2 door gmc jimmies/chevy blazers?

European Laws Maybe?
 
good thought but what about jeep wranglers and 2 door gmc jimmies/chevy blazers?

European Laws Maybe?

I think it's simply that the theory is an off-roader is more likely to smash a lens and so this offers a redundancy.
 
I think it's simply that the theory is an off-roader is more likely to smash a lens and so this offers a redundancy.

I love how on the 1999-2002 Discovery II's they only put the turn signals on the bumper. It seems like such a vulnerable spot.

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I finally took my running boards off my disco. I absolutely hate those things. They're always in the way. They're only good when you are cleaning the windshield and you can stand on them.

It was not that hard until it came to the integrated front mud flap. The running board is connected to the mudflap which has a allen bolt connecting it to the quarter panel inside the wheel well. Long story short, no allen wrench fit the bolt well (and no, it was not a torx) so I tried my hardest to get it off but its nut was so corroded on it would not come off, even with multiple sprays of WD-40. I ended up having my dad saw off the bolt, which did the trick. Tomorrow I am going to have to do the same thing on the opposite side... I can't wait.

I'll post pics tomorrow.

Edit: Forgot to mention I broke a socket wrench in the process of removing one of them
 
Well, heres a pic with 1 running board off. The other one is being very reluctant to come off. I've already spent about 5 hours if not more trying to get it off. Good thing I have nothing better to do. When my dad gets home we're gonna drill out the stupid bolts (I've already tried just about everything else)

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It looks so jacked now. I will miss tripping over the running boards every time I try to get out of the car.

I am still trying to get the other side off. There are more tools out of the picture hahaha.
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This is my next project:
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Ignition replacement. The one in there is a little quirky. Apparently it is a somewhat common problem with Discovery 1's. I WANT A RECALL!
 
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