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Really good, informative post. Thanks.
To my eyes, those shots look really good, especially the 1st one. Tack sharp but not overdone. The seconds seems to be a bit underexposed in the darker areas but that's a tough lighting situation. Still a really good shot. Would you mind sharing the EXIF to these images?
Thank you. Yes of course, here they are.

And just to note I wasn't saying these were poor examples, these were two of my favorites I've taken since getting my 13PM.
 

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Thank you. Yes of course, here they are.

And just to note I wasn't saying these were poor examples, these were two of my favorites I've taken since getting my 13PM.
Thank you. I apologize for the miscommunication. I wasn't implying that they were poor. Nice images, for sure! The first one was perfectly exposed and tack sharp. The restaurant was very well done. The dark surroundings were just under exposed but there was nothing you could do about it. That image has a very high dynamic range which the iPhone can struggle with. It's still a great shot. Had you gotten the darker background exposed more, the inside of the restaurant would have most likely been overexposed.

I asked for the EXIF because I liked the shots and wanted to know how you accomplished them.
Thank you again. :)
 
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I am having a similar issue with my 13PM, but my problem is that certain ProRAW photos seem to self-destruct as soon as I attempt to edit or export them. The issue is particularly bad with Night Mode images, but I have noticed it is also affecting high light shots as well.

I wrote about the issue in full here… https://discussions.apple.com/thread/253309940

I am a pixel peeper, but as a rule I tend to focus on the appearance of an image as a whole, and recently I have been trying to focus more on the artistic merits of a shot and allow myself to look past certain slight technical issues. The one thing I would like is consistency. In my opinion, nothing is more annoying than accepting a shot, only to have it appear completely differently when I come to edit. I agree that the 13 is over sharpening to quite a degree, which is also a gripe of mine, but this does not offend me nearly as much as my photos having split personalities!!!

Examples to follow…

Blurgh a lot to unpack both here in these shots and on your apple discussion page.

The first thing to say is to look into Halide's explanation of ProRaw (and their review of the 12's camera system) , just in case you haven't already. -


Secondly, more details about editing and exporting ProRaw are given on Apple's support page here:


As a gross oversimplification, when you are exporting edited images the JPG is what you are sending. And when you Airdropped to your iPad, you were sending the ProRaw file. but you being on iOS 14 may have had a difference in how ProRaw was interacted with (similar to how other apps can sometimes interpret RAWs differently).

As for the change when you hit the edit button, I reckon what is observed in the unedited preview in Photos is not the true ProRaw file, but a quick preview with more layers of processing on top. Hit edit, and you are dropped down to the base ProRaw file and can manually get back to the preview if you play around with the edits.
 
But in that case, that only changes how photos are viewed on that device, right? Not how it looks sharing the photos, or viewing it on other devices.
Yes, that’s correct. To illustrate, when I sent some photos to my friend via Instagram DM, they looked like the versions with the “View Full HDR” option turned off.

So maybe two things are at play here:

1. The Smart HDR processing that happens when you take a photo with the stock Camera app.
2. The additional HDR sorcery that happens in the Photos app with “View Full HDR” turned on.
 
Is this really so?! Can someone else confirm this too?
If you go back a few pages, you’ll see that a poster uploaded comparisons of photos taken with the stock Camera app and the ProCam app.

I have the ProCam app too, and I can confirm that the results are indeed different.
 
Are there any iPhone 13 Pro and Max users that disagree with this thead and want to show the forum their results with their iPhone?
 
Are there any iPhone 13 Pro and Max users that disagree with this thead and want to show the forum their results with their iPhone?
I think most iPhone 13 Pro users are generally happy to be able to take good pictures with their iPhone 13 Pro cameras... It's simply the bugs or glitches in the software that limits reliability with taking decent quality photographs on a regular basis. I think the fear we have is that you might take a series of important pictures with your iPhone 13 Pro camera, but you don't feel confident that they'll all turn out. If Apple is able to tweak the software, this camera combination would be superb. But until that day, the results will always retain an element of risk.

* Here's a few pictures I've taken with my iPhone 13 Pro Max that were just fine... If only I had faith they would always come out this way. The photograph of the Sydney Harbor Bridge and the Sydney Opera House were taken in ProRAW. The others were HEIC files with any defocus added by the camera.

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Intermediary question. Is night mode automatically used during dark room photos ? I ask since my pics don’t seem to be as bright as what I’m used to when taking pics in dark rooms .
 
Intermediary question. Is night mode automatically used during dark room photos ? I ask since my pics don’t seem to be as bright as what I’m used to when taking pics in dark rooms .
I find that 'Night Mode' activates immediately if the scene is dark enough. You can also override it and activate the On/Off/Auto option that appears in 'Settings'.

iPhone User Guide (Night Mode)

I have not yet experimented with Night Mode other than automatically triggering the setting when shooting in lowlight environments such as my home office etc. If the room is dark enough, Night Mode will activate automatically and will range from 1 second to around 30 seconds if the scene is virtually night time.

HALIDE
To those recommending 'Halide', is it worth the purchase price? The Halide Pro II App asks for a financial commitment before allowing for a 7-Day free trial of the app. Price to buy the App outright is AUD $79 (which seems a little steep) or $17.99 per year. I already have ProCam on my iPhone.
 
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I find that 'Night Mode' activates immediately if the scene is dark enough. You can also override it and activate the On/Off/Auto option that appears in 'Settings'.

iPhone User Guide (Night Mode)

I have not yet experimented with Night Mode other than automatically triggering the setting when shooting in lowlight environments such as my home office etc. If the room is dark enough, Night Mode will activate automatically and will range from 1 second to around 30 seconds if the scene is virtually night time.

HALIDE
To those recommending 'Halide', is it worth the purchase price? The Halide Pro II App asks for a financial commitment before allowing for a 7-Day free trial of the app. Price to buy the App outright is AUD $79 (which seems a little steep) or $17.99 per year. I already have ProCam on my iPhone.
If you already have ProCam 8, there’s no need to get Halide. It’s always going to be personal preference, but after going back and forth between the two, I’m sticking with ProCam. If anything, just for the ability to continue to remain using one app for both photo and video.

Halide is a great app, but when they switched to the subscription model, no thanks.
 
To those recommending 'Halide', is it worth the purchase price? The Halide Pro II App asks for a financial commitment before allowing for a 7-Day free trial of the app. Price to buy the App outright is AUD $79 (which seems a little steep) or $17.99 per year. I already have ProCam on my iPhone.

To me it’s hard to justify the price. But you could always try it and see if you like it.
I have Halide and some of the other paid camera apps, and to me it comes down to personal user experience and flow in the app.
I really like Moment with the function to use presets, which speeds up using manual mode in different situations.
 
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Is there much difference between ProCam 8 and Procamera? Didn't find much searching for comparisons of them online.
 
Although I prefer the Pixel 6 Pro’s camera I’m going to return it. Just too integrated into iOS and my entire family has iOS so it makes it extremely difficult to break off. FaceTime and iMessage is king lol

Here are some quick photos I snapped this morning with my 13 Pro. I find myself confused because there are times where the 13 Pro nails a scene and other times it just over exposes and crushes shadows. No idea why YouTube reviewers are saying the 13 Pro’s are the most consistent cameras out there, that belongs to the Pixel 6 Pro.
 

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Once again: I can't thank everyone enough for all the info, opinions, and photos on this very important thread. Most of all, this thread convinced me to hang onto my 11PM and wait for the 14. I did, however, order a Pixel 6 Pro to upgrade my Pixel 4a. Looking forward to trying it out.

Thank you one and all!
 
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Although I prefer the Pixel 6 Pro’s camera I’m going to return it. Just too integrated into iOS and my entire family has iOS so it makes it extremely difficult to break off. FaceTime and iMessage is king lol

Here are some quick photos I snapped this morning with my 13 Pro. I find myself confused because there are times where the 13 Pro nails a scene and other times it just over exposes and crushes shadows. No idea why YouTube reviewers are saying the 13 Pro’s are the most consistent cameras out there, that belongs to the Pixel 6 Pro.
What is that case on your Pixel 6 Pro?
 
Again, if the problem is just the software and so the camera app, why you don't change app for photos? I don't understand this discussion and why one would not buy the 13 because of this ...
 
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What is that case on your Pixel 6 Pro?
Not a case, couldn’t find one at all. It’s OhSnap, it’s like a
Again, if the problem is just the software and so the camera app, why you don't change app for photos? I don't understand this discussion and why one would not buy the 13 because of this ...
Because we shouldn't have to use a 3rd party app to get the best photos out of our $1k+ phones.

Apple needs to get their **** together, nobody wants an oily painting as a photo.
 
What is that case on your Pixel 6 Pro?
It's not a case, it's called OhSnap and acts like a pop socket. Much better than a pop socket for sure, initially bought it for my 13 Pro but ended up not using it so I put it on my Pixel 6 Pro.
 
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Again, if the problem is just the software and so the camera app, why you don't change app for photos? I don't understand this discussion and why one would not buy the 13 because of this ...

Not sure if the problem is just the software, as there's people on another thread in this forum, discussing the same issue and they mention they have compared RAW images of the 13 Pro/Max with RAW images from previous models and the images of the 13 Pro/Max are less detailed and more blurry...

This is the thread:

 
Sheeze, back in September this member called it out.
 
Not a case, couldn’t find one at all. It’s OhSnap, it’s like a

Because we shouldn't have to use a 3rd party app to get the best photos out of our $1k+ phones.

Apple needs to get their **** together, nobody wants an oily painting as a photo.
Could not agree more. Some of the third party apps are indeed great, but we should not have to resort to that.
 
So I've been doing some experimenting and I've noticed something interesting.

I've noticed that the highlights are way brighter on the 13 Pro's display compared to viewing the same exact photo on the Pixel 6 Pro's display. The photos I'm referring to are ones shot directly from my 13 Pro. This most likely explains why photos on my 13 Pro look as though the highlights are totally blown out but look a tad better when viewing them on my Pixel 6 Pro. I also get that the 13 Pro's display have a higher peak brightness but this shouldn't cause highlights to be so blown out.

I'd recommend that you guys do the same if you have another smartphone you can use to view the same photos you've taken with your 13 Pro.
 
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